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I just got my first credit card from my bank ans was looking for some advice on using it and I saw this post on an online forum that I frequent. Just wanted to ask here if its accurate?
Here are the posts: http://i50.tinypic.com/2sbrd5g.png http://i47.tinypic.com/2pydmh1.png |
| 06-24-2012, 10:08 PM | |
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But I digress... let's put your astute internet advice/research into perspective here, since, after all, you've already acknowledged that's why we're here (even though it's very obviously you're trying to make this a pissing contest). Said case above is a student. Junior actually. He just received his first credit card. For all intensive purposes, he should be 20 years old. This means he's been in the bureau for 2 years. This is extremely limited credit history. He JUST applied for his first card. Let's go ahead and avoid the expanded quote from FICO you included because it does not apply to his individual criteria, making it useless information. A single inquiry is going to have a larger more resounding effect on his credit. Now, it's not going to destroy it, but it would be ignorant to give the impression that it doesn't matter. I stick by my advice for him to establish 6 months of payment history, then apply. But hey, what do I know? I've only been a manual underwriter for 4+ years. And you, well... yeah.... |
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My impression of the info from FICO is that a single inquiry: A) won't hurt you at all if you have extensive history B) will take off less than 5 points "for others" C) will have "greater impact" if you have limited history. They don't define what "greater impact" is, but they certainly don't make it sound like a big deal. As an underwriter, what would you expect the impact to be? I would assume that even if the impact was "double" (10 points), that still isn't going to greatly effect his chances of getting a 2nd card. i.e. if he got the 1st card, lowering his score by 10 likely will not prevent him from getting a 2nd card with similar requirements. Either way we're in basic agreement, the safest course would be to wait; the slightly more risky but still no-big-deal course would be to try for another. As you stated:
And just because it's one of my pet peeves:
Last edited by tadc; 06-25-2012 at 09:53 AM.. |
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There is no perfect way to gauge the exact numerical impact anything will have on your credit. But I can answer a few of your questions, because I agree that FICO is very vague on their website. There is never a time an inquiry will not have a negative impact on your credit... with one exception. FICO actually caps the effect the inquiry variable has on your credit score. So if you've ever taken econometrics or a stats course, you could think about it like a regression, where the coefficient has a limit. Or like Excel, (x percentage if not greater than y). So basically this will only apply to those who are reckless with their credit; Those with several, several inquiries, and have already reach the maximum threshold. Kind of ridiculous without knowing, because one would only naturally assume FICO states it "may have no effect" to imply those with extensive history, as you mentioned. As for gauging the rest... this is where it gets tricky ("for other", "greater impact"). I would think about it like the function X squared. The first few inquiries have a more resounding effect (move along the x-axis) than if you already have a few. And simultaneously, those with less established credit are further effected. If you get too far (tons of inquiries) you hit a cap (tail of the function), and any further inquiries will not matter. Do not quote me on this, but as a very, very rough example the groupings would be: inquiry (1) - 35%, inquiry (2) 25%, inquiries (3-5) 18%, inquiries (5-8) 10%, inquiries (8-12) 5%, etc, etc. For our friend, I think it's really not a matter of classifying one approach as risky and the other conservative . There is really no need for him to apply immediately for another card. He is in prime position to establish a slight payment history and avoid risking an unnecessary inquiry that will hang around for 2 years and effect his future chances of approval. Especially with deferred student loan debt, and no established revolving credit lines. If his utilizations remain low reports 6 months of consecutive, good payment history, I can almost guarantee he would qualify (or could appeal to get) a second credit card. Think about credit like a child. You have to be very, very careful/calm/calculated with it when it's an infant. But once it gets to be about 12 or so, you can start smacking it around a bit without risking too much damage. After all, you're in it for the long-term results and trying to build some character. |
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1. Secured credit is a great way to put your income to use to build guaranteed credit. 2. While establishing installment history, I actually did the first thing mentioned. I secured a low interest, reverse equity car loan with my local credit union. I actually use the proceeds from the loan to begin investing in a Roth IRA account. The theory was to gain, essentially, free credit history. Although you will have to pay interest, given today's interest rates, you could easily get a secured rate with a car title for significantly less than the rate of return in an indexed mutual fund under the umbrella of a Roth IRA. For example, a secured simple interest loan of 2.5% vs the average rate of return of the U.S stock market (approx 10.37%). You will have made money, and built credit! If you want something more liquid (not an IRA), you could consider a high yield CD, etc. Both are great ways to use equity to build credit. Edit: My client just rescheduled. I read the second link and it's not very accurate. Actually it's terrible, lol. There is no benefit of a charge account (i.e. JCpenny, what he refers to as retail) vs. a credit card. They both effect your revolving history the same. If anything, I would highly advise again a charge account vs. a credit card because you're less likely to have consistent, monthly payment history, unless you shop there constantly. And if they go inactive for far too long (let's say, 18 months without a purchase), the credit grantor might close the account (more negative than if you closed it yourself). His advise to only have 2 major CC's is also not true. There's a good article from a finance professor I read once (ill try to find it), who was an expert with his revolving history. He held some 25+ credit cards, including several rare AmEx's with an unlimited credit line. All he did was maintain constant payment history on all his cards, keep low utilizations, and hold on to as much credit as possible. He also had a great blend of installment/revolving history. Also, jointly borrowed account vs individual accounts is of no consequence to your score or FICO. Last edited by bigemu1; 06-25-2012 at 05:36 PM.. |
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I'm pretty bored, so I thought I'd point out a few flaws in FICO's advise section, which do not focus on long-term credit building:
Also they do mention that consumer credit counseling has no effect on your score, but this has a HUGE impact on manual underwriting. Very vague/risky advice from them. |
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In general, the lower your debt-to-credit ratio, the better. Your goal should be to spend as little as possible on the card, and ALWAYS pay it in full each month. Keeping a balance from month to month will lower your score, not improve it.
The general consensus that I've seen is that at a minimum, stay under 50% utilization of your credit. Under 30% is better, under 15% is even better, and under 7% is the best possible. I try to stay under 10%, but that's hard to do if you don't have high credit limits. |
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" at the end there... Of course it's possible that carrying a balance could impact your relationship with that particular lender (they might decide to raise [or not raise] your limit based on that information for instance), but it's impossible for it to impact your score as it's not information that is reported. (I'm sure *someone* will correct me if I'm wrong about this! )As can be seen here [creditinanutshell.com]: they report your balance that month, the highest historical balance (or your limit), and your payment history. Nothing about carried balance or how much your monthly payment was. Last edited by tadc; 06-26-2012 at 12:50 PM.. |
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Please help decide!
I got these 2 offers in the mail:Visa Signature : $500 GC or equal to $625 in airfare. It also mentioned free companion air ticket every year (through spiritincentive or something similar). Is this a good deal? Anyone else got this as well? Also got another offer : I think it was BOA : $400 GC + 15 month 0% APR for purchases/BT. I pay off each month. This is a $0 annual fee card. I have taken a loan & got another credit check for Fios recently. So please let me know if any of these 2 offers is worth going for. Sorry but I don't have much info on them. Thanks so much |
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![]() There are 3 main credit reporting agencies - Equifax, Experian, and Transunion. I've cut and pasted this snippet from my Experian credit report, in regards to my Capital One credit card: Code:
Balance History - The following data will appear in the following format: account balance / date payment received / scheduled payment amount / actual amount paid Jan 2012: $210 / December 19, 2011 / $25 / $100 Dec 2011: $274 / November 18, 2011 / $25 / $105 Nov 2011: $270 / October 18, 2011 / $25 / $50 I can tell you from my own experience that keeping your credit utilization lower will improve your score. However, you don't want to have a zero balance on your reports because it isn't as beneficial to your score as a small balance being reported. |
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And it is good for your credit score.But here's a trick for that. Most credit card companies report your balance to the credit reporting agencies on the day that your statement cuts (or within a few days after). If you pay them before the statement cuts then you can keep your reported balance low, thus your score isn't dinged for high balance / utilization %. This can be helpful if you want to take advantage of rewards, cash back, etc. but you don't want a high balance reported to the agencies which can negatively effect your score. This tip is probably more relevant for the "advanced" credit card user. Your average credit card user might feel that paying beforehand is too much hassle.
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Even other companies have told me that Capitol One is the easiest one to get approved for. My brother was denied by Chase and I was trying to get advice from banks I bank with where he should go since I knew none of them would approve him since he never had a card. I've had him as an authorized user on my Amex and even though my whole history shows up on his credit report I guess that didn't help(worked when I did it for my mom years ago). <Patagonian maras, not quite as awesome as capybaras.
Sir, I asked you not to play the song again, didn't I? |
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