Online Home Repair help for SD members

The problem is probably a loose connection in the wiring. Either the connections under the fixture or at the switch, or breaker.It could even be the fixture itself. Does it arc at switch (put your ear near it while you slowly turn it on and off),or is there any stuttering when on? Have you checked the voltage at the fixture? It wouldn't be that hard to change the whole fixture. Just turn off the breaker write down how the wires are tied together .Black is usually hot, white neutral, bare or green ground

Quote from teetee1 : The kitchen ceiling lights in my place use are G24q-1 base sockets: http://cdn2.bulbamerica.com/media..._20400.jpg The CFL bulbs never lasted more than 4 months. I was told that they are energy saving bulbs and should last longer, obviously it's not true for those that I have/had. $4-6/each every 4 months or less is just too much for me. Normally when the bulb first went out, I could tap the lamp cover to make it on and once it's on, it wouldn't go out. However after several times the tapping won't do anything and the bulb was eventually dead. This happened to all my bulbs, there are only 3 out of 12 of them working and I had to make a decision to find out what is happening. The company made these bulbs claimed they have 10,000 hours of life but my bulbs rarely work longer than 500 hours. The bulbs I have look like http://www.saving-light-bulbs.co....90x334.JPG According to some online search, this type of bulb has g24q-1 base and several different base components, the wiring is not as simple as the common bulb sockets http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Edison_screw My questions: 1. How to troubleshoot to find out what makes the bulbs burn out so quickly (most of the burnt-out bulbs have black/dark inner coating, instead of white color, at the tube base. 2. Can I convert the socket to use other type of bulbs? 3. Any step-by-step instruction for me to convert those g24q-1 sockets into the common screw type?

Are you sure its not a heat issue? CFL's don't like heat and many of the in ceiling cans get pretty hot. Are your cans vented or sealed?

Quote from Devedander : Is this ok or should I fight it until it's really down and touching porcelin on porcelin? I am worried that now while the gasket is soft it's fine but a year or two down the road if it gets hard a wobble may make it start leaking....

If the bolts are pretty tight and it's not currently leaking it's fine. Of course, you need to check for leaks when you flush, not when the tank is just sitting there full of water.

Quote from teetee1 : The CFL bulbs never lasted more than 4 months. 1. How to troubleshoot to find out what makes the bulbs burn out so quickly (most of the burnt-out bulbs have black/dark inner coating, instead of white color, at the tube base.

How often do you turn on the light per day?



[QUOTE=teetee1;49968418]
2. Can I convert the socket to use other type of bulbs?
Not likely, without changing out the fixture.

Quote from dollarbill : The problem is probably a loose connection in the wiring. Either the connections under the fixture or at the switch, or breaker.It could even be the fixture itself. Does it arc at switch (put your ear near it while you slowly turn it on and off),or is there any stuttering when on? Have you checked the voltage at the fixture? It wouldn't be that hard to change the whole fixture. Just turn off the breaker write down how the wires are tied together .Black is usually hot, white neutral, bare or green ground

I checked the fixture and the switch but couldn't hear any buzzing/arc noise. The bulbs never stutter when on. The fixture has a ballast and two bulb sockets and each g24q-1 socket has four pins so I'm not sure which terminal for positive and which for ground.

I just checked out several videos on changing the fixture and I can see it's pretty straightforward. Still not sure why the previous owner decided to install g24q-1 CFLs at the first place.

Quote from LiquidRetro : Are you sure its not a heat issue? CFL's don't like heat and many of the in ceiling cans get pretty hot. Are your cans vented or sealed?

The CFLs are not in a recessed can. Though they are underneath the ceiling, there is a glass dome cover and no ventilation. I never feel heat radiates from my CFL tubes hot enough to consider warm though after they're turned on for a period of time.

Quote from Q-Bert : How often do you turn on the light per day?

I would say those bulbs are turned on a couple of times a day (during the night) and sometimes more often(but shouldn't exceed 10 times a day). Do you think the inferior ballast device can kill the bulbs?

Quote from teetee1 : I would say those bulbs are turned on a couple of times a day (during the night) and sometimes more often(but shouldn't exceed 10 times a day). Do you think the inferior ballast device can kill the bulbs?

The life of a CFL is significantly shorter if it is turned on and off frequently.


What is the voltage at that fixture? I had a loose neutral on the feed to my home that was causing havoc with some CFLs I had.

Quote from teetee1 : I checked the fixture and the switch but couldn't hear any buzzing/arc noise. The bulbs never stutter when on. The fixture has a ballast and two bulb sockets and each g24q-1 socket has four pins so I'm not sure which terminal for positive and which for ground. polarity doesnt matter with digital meter I just checked out several videos on changing the fixture and I can see it's pretty straightforward. Still not sure why the previous owner decided to install g24q-1 CFLs at the first place. The CFLs are not in a recessed can. Though they are underneath the ceiling, there is a glass dome cover and no ventilation. I never feel heat radiates from my CFL tubes hot enough to consider warm though after they're turned on for a period of time. I would say those bulbs are turned on a couple of times a day (during the night) and sometimes more often(but shouldn't exceed 10 times a day). Do you think the inferior ballast device can kill the bulbs?

Yes a bad ballast could be the problem thats where a voltage check would help


I would just relace the fixture and use the screw type cfl's save money in the long run and solve your problem http://www.homedepot.com/Electric...reId=10051

What should it cost to convert a 14 year old Burnham boiler using 3.5 GPH from oil to gas? The boiler is rated for 534MBH and 1671 SF steam, and it's an easy run for the supply pipe from the meter area. Specs call for a Beckett CG 10 gas burner, although I should ask also if a dual firing rate burner would be advisable.

The bids I'm getting are all above 10k. Also, can't find any stats about what to expect for fuel savings. I know it's not a super efficient system, and am not sure with that steep capital improvement what the payback period will be. Any help figuring out that appreciated.

Here are some photos of my back yard.
http://photobucket.com/yard1142

I have been piling up fallen tree branches/debris over the years around the shed over the past few years. This summer I'd like to paint the shed so the junk pile has to go. I thought about cutting things into smaller pile and rent an U-haul truck to move them to the dump. It will probably cost ~$90 and it feels strange to use U-haul for this.

Any other suggestions? Chipping / shredding takes a long time with my leaf vac and cost a lot of gas. I don't want to build a compost bin because it will take space in the yard. Nobody in our neighborhood burns leaves or tree branches.

Quote from teetee1 : Here are some photos of my back yard. http://photobucket.com/yard1142 I have been piling up fallen tree branches/debris over the years around the shed over the past few years. This summer I'd like to paint the shed so the junk pile has to go. I thought about cutting things into smaller pile and rent an U-haul truck to move them to the dump. It will probably cost ~$90 and it feels strange to use U-haul for this. Any other suggestions? Chipping / shredding takes a long time with my leaf vac and cost a lot of gas. I don't want to build a compost bin because it will take space in the yard. Nobody in our neighborhood burns leaves or tree branches.

Does your county have a leaf/brush pickup? If not, bag it and put it out for trash pick up maybe a little at a time

Quick question for you guys: My roof has a bunch of brown looking moss growing on it. Its not outta control where the whole roof has moss but just random spots around the roof. I'm trying to figure out the best way to remove this moss without damaging my roof. Some people have suggested using a pressure washer which I have heard is a terrible idea and will damage your roof much more than it actually helps. I also bought a solution that you attach to your hose called "moss be gone" or something to effect. Is this safe to use? I don't want to have something that actually will damage the shingles underneath the moss. I am very able bodied and would be to get on my roof with no problem and remove it by hand or by broom. Just wondering what is the best way to go about this. Anyone had any success?

Short story is I am really worried about damaging my roof and making it leak by removing the moss. Should I be worried?

Thanks for this thread. It is awesome you are helping people out.

Quote from fi3nom : Quick question for you guys: My roof has a bunch of brown looking moss growing on it. Its not outta control where the whole roof has moss but just random spots around the roof. I'm trying to figure out the best way to remove this moss without damaging my roof. Some people have suggested using a pressure washer which I have heard is a terrible idea and will damage your roof much more than it actually helps. I also bought a solution that you attach to your hose called "moss be gone" or something to effect. Is this safe to use? I don't want to have something that actually will damage the shingles underneath the moss. I am very able bodied and would be to get on my roof with no problem and remove it by hand or by broom. Just wondering what is the best way to go about this. Anyone had any success? Short story is I am really worried about damaging my roof and making it leak by removing the moss. Should I be worried? Thanks for this thread. It is awesome you are helping people out.

Moss killer will the moss but not remove it.I occasionally pressure wash roofs and the trick is to spray down hill,, use as low a pressure as necessary,and use a wide spray tip. Moss will do more damage than the power washing if it's done right. Be careful, falling off the roof might not hurt but the sudden stop when you hit the ground will. You might want to price out a pro it's cheaper than you think

Can members discuss any kind of home matter for looking advice for any physical solution of their specified problems?

Quote from Mikeburley : Can members discuss any kind of home matter for looking advice for any physical solution of their specified problems?

Sure, we'll try our best to give a good answer

I am remodeling my master bathroom and have all the demo work done, nearly. I have several valves where the sinks and toilet were, and a few are leaking. I need to replace them. They are the compression fittings and I have 2 questions.

1) How is the best way (Cheap) to get the old brass ring off my copper pipe? Cutting the pipe is not really an option in a few places. Last night I ended up cutting one super carefully by hand so I could get the new valve on and restore water to the house.

2) My plumbing valves will sit inside the vanity for the sinks. I want to stop the leak before the tile floor is put in here tomorrow. The tile installer wants to put the floor in first, then do the walls next week, so I need to stop the leaks by putting on the new valves now then put the vanity in later. I don't want to drill huge holes in the side of the vanity, just enough to put the pipes through and then the valves but my timing is all wrong.
So will I be able to put my compression fitting valve on now, to stop the water, then take it off, put the vanity in, rescrew it back on without leaks?

I know its not the optimal thing to do but at this point I am not sure what to do. If it would make it better, I could probably put it on virgin copper each time, since I have more pipe on these.