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home repair
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#706
06-27-2012, 07:02 PM
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Multi-Quote| 06-27-2012, 07:02 PM | |
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#707
06-28-2012, 05:43 AM
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Yep, in Pennsylvania. Had some issues and wanted just some information about design of a new install. Calling them for information was fruitless, I was told to call a local professional in. I see online they've done the same with others and would expect the same again.
Still looking around.... it's even hard to find out online how to use a gas analyzer and tweak the settings. The numbers to look for can be found, but how to accomplish a tweak on the boiler isn't. I want to know things like that and the right way to reassemble the sealed chamber and if this model has anything specific to it (as many of the new boilers do) that needs tending etc. Am having a system serviced routinely and want to know what's going on, in depth. There was a certain reassurance knowing in depth how the old oil system worked and that's totally lacking for me with the new gas system. Thanks, Dollarbill |
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#708
06-29-2012, 10:16 AM
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#709
07-01-2012, 06:45 AM
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I'll probably start a separate thread on this, but I thought I'd try all of my resources here. I am installing a transfer switch, and I came across something peculiar. Look at the attached picture. Of the 2 20amp fuses, one of them has a white wire. Is this just a case of not using the right wire to do the job or is there any reason that a white wire should go in to the breaker instead of be grounded. I will be wiring this to 2 20amp breakers on my xfer switch, and I want to make sure I do this right.
xfer switch.jpg
23.2 KB / 105 views
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#710
07-01-2012, 07:09 AM
for those that hate spelling mistakes www.walmarts.co
  save money by checking your insurance every 2 years (and not every 20) |
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#711
07-01-2012, 08:04 AM
It is a double pole, and it supplies my water pump. That's kind of the one big think i need to get write. I could burn the rest of the house down, but i need water. |
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#712
07-01-2012, 10:18 AM
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#713
07-01-2012, 11:00 AM
Thank you for your feedback. So am i safe to assume that this is just a hot wire with the wrong color? That is what I was thinking and ready to wire it as such. By doing so, I wouldn't be changing anything about the wiring. The currents would all still be the same as they were. The water pump is the last thing I want to screw up. If it' blows then I'm out a lot of money, and we are looking at another 7 days without power. 
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#714
07-01-2012, 03:04 PM
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those breakers are only supplying hot. you can double check at the pump and see what it's connected to.
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#715
07-02-2012, 12:49 PM
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Identify this lock please
I'm looking to replace this lock for a friend but can't find a suitable replacement. Can anyone tell me what brand or type of lock this is? Notice that the deadbolt is not inline with the cylinder. 
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#716
07-10-2012, 05:31 AM
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toilet flapper
Toilet flapper stopped working. I think the bathroom is from the 70s, so I figured any universal flapper would do and I bought this one http://www.korky.com/Flapper2001BP.hWhen I went to replace the flapper, it wasn't the right one. I'll use the following image for the names of stuff http://www.rusticgirls Instead there are mounting prongs on the valve seat at a 90 degree angle to the overflow tube. Furthermore the mounting prongs are inverted. They require a flapper with solid flapper arms to push out of it. I don't see any flapper on korky or home depot website that looks like it would fit. I'm going to go to home depot and double check, but do you guys know what kind of flapper I need? Or I need to replace the overflow tube with one that has the newer style of mounting prongs? Found a picture of what my flapper looks like: http://www.thisoldhous Last edited by sdslick; 07-10-2012 at 05:52 AM.. "Ignorance more frequently begets confidence than does knowledge"
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#717
07-10-2012, 10:15 AM
I have always bought those kits that have everything in them. That way they always mount just fine to the other stuff. That said, if the toilet is really from the 70's then you might think about upgrading. At my HD I can get a Kohler toilet that has the required water savings 1gpf, but has a ton of power. You really can't stop this thing. They cost me $138. Replacing a toilet is pretty easy to DIY too. Just something to think about, save water and get a lot more power too. ------------------------------- My question is I have really large thick mirror I want to attach to my wall. This will be in a bathroom and I don't want to frame it. The mirror will be 60" x 36" or so and weighs probably 60 lbs and is 1/4" thick. I have seen some mirrors in commercial buildings sit in a channel on both the bottom and top and I like this idea. Any idea where I can find this or whats its called? Any better ideas? Vague questions receive vague answers . . . . . .
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#718
07-10-2012, 06:32 PM
http://www.crlaurence. use the cardboard liners that come with them and try not to slide mirror. it will scrape the backing off the mirror Last edited by stufine; 07-10-2012 at 08:16 PM.. |
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#719
07-10-2012, 06:40 PM
There are other repair kits http://www.lowes.com/pd_24409-320...facetInfo |
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#720
08-10-2012, 04:37 AM
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Question on how best to fudge something.
I have a back porch door with a gable roof overhang. Footprint of the overhang is about 4' wide and 3' deep. It's not big, and it's attached to the house and has two 4x posts on the outside corners. Needed to replace the shingle roof. My guess is that it's about 50 years old and has finally worn down enough to justify it. They were mighty nice shingles, very hefty by today's standard. I tore off the roof and found some rotten sheathing. I removed that and found some rotten rafters. So I took off the cardboard like material from the ceiling and was able to sister matching rafters to those which had rot showing at the ends. Simple so far. Then I replaced the sheathing and installed some edge trim (which it did not originally have) and a layer of tar paper and then some 25 year shingles with a ridge of shingles with a 4" exposure. It looks good so far. My question is how to attach the edge of the shingles to the house. Where it meets the roof there's a combination of stucco and splintering (rotting?) wood trim. And the wood trim, follows old window lines (my guess is the door used to be a window) so there's a 3/4" inch depression leading to what looks like a face of the cardboard ceiling material... even though it's on the wall. So what I'm leading to is that it's not a straight line edge where the roof meets the house and there are different materials. I snugged the shingles right up to the house and was thinking a hefty bead of Phenoseal in place of traditional flashing. I discovered a layer of heavy, rocklike tar was there originally, placed under the shingles, bonding the sheathing to the house. It held up well. What's a good way of sealing between the new shingles and the house? Last edited by oldgrump; 08-10-2012 at 04:39 AM.. |
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