Online Home Repair help for SD members

Quote from dollarbill : It sounds like the whole diverter is upside down.Could be a defective cartridge. Contact the manufacture and see if they'll send you a new one.

Do you mean the valve is upside down? This is what I was thinking. The shower is connected to the tub outlet and the tub spout is connected to the shower outlet.

Quote from Q-Bert : Do you mean the valve is upside down? This is what I was thinking. The shower is connected to the tub outlet and the tub spout is connected to the shower outlet.

Yes, but he said its not that, so I figure it's the cartridge or gunk in the cartridge

Number of registers per room?

Same basement finishing I spoke of before - getting to the point where I need to put the drops for HVAC (pre-ceiling) - I know there are some more "professional" methods for determining the number of registers (and locations) in a room but is there a rule of thumb? How many and where (near doors, etc)? I've attached a floorplan.

All I can find that code says is 1 register per room.

The large "rec room" side has the house ductwork (1st, 2nd and return) going right down the middle (furnace is located where it says "Unfinished", ductwork runs right down along the middle partition and ends at the "tiled area").

Got a Whirlpool Quiet Partner II that's about 2-3 years old and today it started making a buzzing sound during the wash cycle.

It seems to be the entire time it's running - not just limited to fill or drain.

It seems to complete a wash cycle ok but definitely something is buzzing.

Sounds like it's coming from the bottom (which makes sense as that's where everything is) and would say the buzzing is a physical sound not an electric sound if you know what I mean...

Ideas?

Quote from Devedander : Got a Whirlpool Quiet Partner II that's about 2-3 years old and today it started making a buzzing sound during the wash cycle. It seems to be the entire time it's running - not just limited to fill or drain. It seems to complete a wash cycle ok but definitely something is buzzing. Sounds like it's coming from the bottom (which makes sense as that's where everything is) and would say the buzzing is a physical sound not an electric sound if you know what I mean... Ideas?

I have a whirlpool gold dishwasher, probably very similar to your unit, and I have also had mine probably 3 years.

Do you have hard water?

Get some lemishine at the store. It is citric acid powder. Follow the directions, it will dissolve hard water buildup and extend the life of your dishwasher pump.

Alternatively you can put it on pots and pans cycle, wait until the 2nd wash cycle because that is the longest cycle, and dump 2-3 cups of vinegar in the wash water. It will also dissolve mineral buildup on the pump.

Do this daily until the pump quiets back down. After that, use vinegar or lemishine monthly.

Quote from B9FYwspP8J85 : I have a whirlpool gold dishwasher, probably very similar to your unit, and I have also had mine probably 3 years. Do you have hard water? Get some lemishine at the store. It is citric acid powder. Follow the directions, it will dissolve hard water buildup and extend the life of your dishwasher pump. Alternatively you can put it on pots and pans cycle, wait until the 2nd wash cycle because that is the longest cycle, and dump 2-3 cups of vinegar in the wash water. It will also dissolve mineral buildup on the pump. Do this daily until the pump quiets back down. After that, use vinegar or lemishine monthly.

I'm on city water and don't think it's particularly hard... I will try a few those cleaning ideas, doesn't seem like a bad idea either way but if the pump clogs up on city water after a few years that seems like a pretty poor design.

Do you think it's the pump since it's not limited to fill/drain times?

Quote from Dr. J : Number of registers per room? Same basement finishing I spoke of before - getting to the point where I need to put the drops for HVAC (pre-ceiling) - I know there are some more "professional" methods for determining the number of registers (and locations) in a room but is there a rule of thumb? How many and where (near doors, etc)? I've attached a floorplan. All I can find that code says is 1 register per room. The large "rec room" side has the house ductwork (1st, 2nd and return) going right down the middle (furnace is located where it says "Unfinished", ductwork runs right down along the middle partition and ends at the "tiled area").

I would put one in each of the 2 finished rooms make them bigger with an adjustable closer. That way you can damp them down to get best comfort for each season. Forgot to mention how important it is to have a good return going back to furnace. Could be as simple as leaving space beneath doors and maybe adding an adjustable ( once again for balance) vent on the return portion of your furnace

Quote from dollarbill : I would put one in each of the 2 finished rooms make them bigger with an adjustable closer. That way you can damp them down to get best comfort for each season. Forgot to mention how important it is to have a good return going back to furnace. Could be as simple as leaving space beneath doors and maybe adding an adjustable ( once again for balance) vent on the return portion of your furnace

there are no doors separating these 2 rooms, but there are doors separating the rooms from the furnace itself. one vent will be sufficient? I am planning on using 6" flex duct.

Quote from Devedander : I'm on city water and don't think it's particularly hard... I will try a few those cleaning ideas, doesn't seem like a bad idea either way but if the pump clogs up on city water after a few years that seems like a pretty poor design. Do you think it's the pump since it's not limited to fill/drain times?

Yeah it is usually the pump. Mineral build-up makes it work harder, and burn out sooner. It is the most common problem with dishwashers on city water.

Quote from Dr. J : there are no doors separating these 2 rooms, but there are doors separating the rooms from the furnace itself. one vent will be sufficient? I am planning on using 6" flex duct.

It might work with one. Furthest room from furnace. If it doesnt will you still have access to do the other?

Quote from dollarbill : It might work with one. Furthest room from furnace. If it doesnt will you still have access to do the other?

i meant 1 vent per room, not for the whole thing!

Quote from Dr. J : i meant 1 vent per room, not for the whole thing!

Oh sorry, misunderstood. Yes 1 in each of the 2 bigger finished rooms

How can I fix this? The joist is 6" high and 14 feet long. It is cut at the ends such that 3" is resting on a beam and the balance was cut off. There's not enough meat to stuff it with glue and drive lag bolts up into it, nor wrap it with a modified hanger. I can't readily sister it as it's already sagging and even if I cut a beam to match the sag there's not much to attach it to because of a twist. Best I can think of is an adjustable column to just stabilize it. Is there a means to fix this that would not take up floor space? The beam abuts a chimney on one side and plumbing is in the way on both sides. Clicking on the photo makes it larger. I also fear that other joists might be threatened on this sagging, bouncy floor. It was made about the same time as the Civil War took place. Be really embarrassing to fall into the basement! The split originates near a hand cut notch in the joist, it can be seen on the right side of the split by the metal plate.

Quote from batterycharger : How can I fix this? The joist is 6" high and 14 feet long. It is cut at the ends such that 3" is resting on a beam and the balance was cut off. There's not enough meat to stuff it with glue and drive lag bolts up into it, nor wrap it with a modified hanger. I can't readily sister it as it's already sagging and even if I cut a beam to match the sag there's not much to attach it to because of a twist. Best I can think of is an adjustable column to just stabilize it. Is there a means to fix this that would not take up floor space? The beam abuts a chimney on one side and plumbing is in the way on both sides. Clicking on the photo makes it larger. I also fear that other joists might be threatened on this sagging, bouncy floor. It was made about the same time as the Civil War took place. Be really embarrassing to fall into the basement! The split originates near a hand cut notch in the joist, it can be seen on the right side of the split by the metal plate.

The best approach I think is to sister another beam next to it. First straighten the sag with a mid span lolly column or jack. Use pipe clamps to pull it tight to the existing beam. But only enough for attaching screws or lags. using shims to keep the new beam from twisting too much. if the new beam can be placed to bear on both ends you could just let sit free of the old one