Online Home Repair help for SD members

Thanks, dollarbill. Used Durabond 90 this morning after two afternoons of prep. Looks great, except for one curved convex/concave contoured area I'll have to shape with appropriate tools. I think it'll all blend well after painting, which leads me to my next question:

Should I use exterior paint on these internal walls? Again, they will be subject to freeze/thaw/heat and cold extremes. I think the top coat of paint was latex, the underlying are oil for sure. Continue with latex or revert to oil? Shamed to say, I've taken a liking to the Behr exterior primer/finish coat in one paint. I like it's consistency and ability to cover well with a uniform sheen over different substrates. Tempted to use it, but have some hesitation.

And there's always one more thing... what type of material (masonry cement, hydraulic cement, homemade mix etc) is correct for pointing this

Photos are great at your website. If you're ever in Boston area this place also has a slate roof that will need some maintenance.

Quote from TBurr : Thanks, dollarbill. Used Durabond 90 this morning after two afternoons of prep. Looks great, except for one curved convex/concave contoured area I'll have to shape with appropriate tools. I think it'll all blend well after painting, which leads me to my next question: Should I use exterior paint on these internal walls? Again, they will be subject to freeze/thaw/heat and cold extremes. I think the top coat of paint was latex, the underlying are oil for sure. Continue with latex or revert to oil? Shamed to say, I've taken a liking to the Behr exterior primer/finish coat in one paint. I like it's consistency and ability to cover well with a uniform sheen over different substrates. Tempted to use it, but have some hesitation. And there's always one more thing... what type of material (masonry cement, hydraulic cement, homemade mix etc) is correct for pointing this Photos are great at your website. If you're ever in Boston area this place also has a slate roof that will need some maintenance.

The only difference in exterior paint is its more durable to rain. Behr is overpriced in my book but any good quality paint will work. I prefer to prime first then finish.You need to follow same rule as before prep first, thats more important than the paint itself. The best paint in the world won't stick to dirty,oily, flaky,loose, etc. surface.
If those columns are marble I would use a white marble grout. Once again prep first. I'd use a sealer on it after your done.
And the website is my brothers company all though I do a lot of his carpentry.

Repointing. tuckpointing, pointing, I don't know what it's called after meeting with some masons. But they all want a fortune to replace some missing cement between bricks.

I'm thinking of doing this myself. Doesn't look like rocket science, and I'd save a lot of money. Home Depot sells everything I'd need, masonry cement, bonding adhesive, trowels, pointing tools with different shapes 35c.

The masons all want to grind cement out between the bricks before recementing. Is anything wrong with just adding new cement to what's there now? Is grinding essential?

Adding one more question; with all the new technology, what's a really effective stud finder?

Quote from whome : Repointing. tuckpointing, pointing, I don't know what it's called after meeting with some masons. But they all want a fortune to replace some missing cement between bricks. I'm thinking of doing this myself. Doesn't look like rocket science, and I'd save a lot of money. Home Depot sells everything I'd need, masonry cement, bonding adhesive, trowels, pointing tools with different shapes 35c. The masons all want to grind cement out between the bricks before recementing. Is anything wrong with just adding new cement to what's there now? Is grinding essential? Adding one more question; with all the new technology, what's a really effective stud finder?

Grinding out the loose old mortar is important if you want the job to last for more than a couple months.It's easier than you think ...just dirty.
I don't trust stud finders I tap on the wall and listen for a more solid tone. I use a thin finishing nail where it will be covered (i.e. putting up trim or cabinets ), if I have any doubts. The key when using stud finder is to start it where there isn't a stud. Kind of defeats the purpose if you don't know where they are. Once you find one it's usually 16" on center and on the sides of all openings. ceiling trusses are usually 24" on center

Quote from whome : Repointing. tuckpointing, pointing, I don't know what it's called after meeting with some masons. But they all want a fortune to replace some missing cement between bricks. I'm thinking of doing this myself. Doesn't look like rocket science, and I'd save a lot of money. Home Depot sells everything I'd need, masonry cement, bonding adhesive, trowels, pointing tools with different shapes 35c. The masons all want to grind cement out between the bricks before recementing. Is anything wrong with just adding new cement to what's there now? Is grinding essential? Adding one more question; with all the new technology, what's a really effective stud finder?

I'm pretty familiar with tuckpointing. Yes, grinding is essential to remove loose mortar and to make sure that you add enough new mortar. You'll need a grinder and a diamond tuck point blade. Depending on how much you are looking to tuckpoint, you may need more than one. What bonding adhesive are you talking about?

Quote from Q-Bert : I'm pretty familiar with tuckpointing. Yes, grinding is essential to remove loose mortar and to make sure that you add enough new mortar. You'll need a grinder and a diamond tuck point blade. Depending on how much you are looking to tuckpoint, you may need more than one. What bonding adhesive are you talking about?

It was a milky liquid in a quart bottle, Acril (?), I don't remember. The guy at Home Depot said I could use that and not have to grind as long as what's it's going over is solid.

It's about 6 square feet that needs to be done. What would happen if I just pack cement over the old cement without grinding anything? What's there looks to be a pretty good base.

Your comments are discouraging me from trying this. I've takled some other home projects and they've come out great.

then if you make a mess putting it in your looking at a time cleaning it off. then if you use acid to clean you might end up doing the whole wall let alone getting the color to match.

stud finder on old plaster/lath is about useless. you can use one of the magnet types that will find nails in the boards.

Quote from whome : It was a milky liquid in a quart bottle, Acril (?), I don't remember. The guy at Home Depot said I could use that and not have to grind as long as what's it's going over is solid. It's about 6 square feet that needs to be done. What would happen if I just pack cement over the old cement without grinding anything? What's there looks to be a pretty good base. Your comments are discouraging me from trying this. I've takled some other home projects and they've come out great.

Ehrm, acril is a bonding agent for paint not mortar.

If you "just pack cement over the old cement without grinding anything?"

1 - It'll look like a patch job. If this is face brick, it won't look good. If it's common brick, and/or you don't care how it looks then no problem.

2 - Depending how much new mortar you a pointing into the joint, it won't stay there long.

Why are you looking to tuckpoint this area?

Quote from Q-Bert : Ehrm, acril is a bonding agent for paint not mortar.... Why are you looking to tuckpoint this area?

No, what I saw was clearly for cement. Here's a link and description.:
Acryl for cement: http://www.acehardwaresuperstore....tml?ref=42
Acryl 60 should be added to cement based mixes of mortars, plasters, stuccos, and concrete to increase mechanical strength, chemical resistance properties, as well as increase and improve workability, adhesion, freeze/thaw resistance and curing characteristics.

--------

The cement has worn down with age and the cavities make places look terrible. I think I can do this without making a mess; just shove in a small quantity at a time. Sure beats paying someone 1K for a bag of cement.

After looking into this more online, I'm confuzzled what type of cement goes with what's likely a lime based mortar type M, N, S or O?

Great info here: http://www.nps.gov/history/hps/tp...0and%20Mix
but they say a chisel is the right thing to use for breaking out the old stuff, not a grinder, so even more confuzzling.

Quote from whome : No, what I saw was clearly for cement. Here's a link and description.: Acryl for cement: http://www.acehardwaresuperstore....tml?ref=42 Acryl 60 should be added to cement based mixes of mortars, plasters, stuccos, and concrete to increase mechanical strength, chemical resistance properties, as well as increase and improve workability, adhesion, freeze/thaw resistance and curing characteristics. -------- The cement has worn down with age and the cavities make places look terrible. I think I can do this without making a mess; just shove in a small quantity at a time. Sure beats paying someone 1K for a bag of cement. After looking into this more online, I'm confuzzled what type of cement goes with what's likely a lime based mortar type M, N, S or O? Great info here: http://www.nps.gov/history/hps/tp...0and%20Mix but they say a chisel is the right thing to use for breaking out the old stuff, not a grinder, so even more confuzzling.

Ok. that's different from the one I was thinking http://www.protectivepaints.co.za...ochure.pdf

$1000 for a 6 sq.ft. area is certainly too much. How high up is this?

If you are looking for a better price you can try going by the local material supply yard and check for business cards of tuckpointers left on the corkboard.

You'd be looking at N. It'll be easier to work the mortar and rake the joints. S can be used as well, but the lower lime makes it not as easy to work.

As a test, try using a chisel vs. using a grinder on a small area, and then get back to me on which is easier

I don't think it's the size that matters, it's coming out, setting up, doing a little work and closing up. They'd do about 30 sf to make things blend, but it's just a small area that needs to be done.

I don't have a grinder, and I wouldn't want to use one. Saw warnings about the silica stuff they toss around when grinding cement. I got a dremel, but that won't do it.

I'm going to load up on supplies and try sticking some cement onto the existing cement surface. Worse that'll happen is someone will grind it off. Will look for the type cement you recommended. Thanks.

Correct me if I'm wrong...but if you don't prep the joints in the brick well, the new "cement" placed there could pop out after the next few rains/freezes...as water will get between the new and old cement and the new will "pop" out of the joints

Finished the entryway today and it looks, well, simply fantastic. That Durabond handled well, sanded easier than expected and with two coats of paint blends right in. Painstaking preparation was worth it. Thanks for all the help. On to the next challenge...