Online Home Repair help for SD members

my house was built about 6 years ago and, due to settlement (I guess) two of the three exterior doors are slightly mis-aligned. If you look closely, the top of the door hits the frame and there's a slight gap at the bottom.

Is this easy to fix or something that a professional should do? If there a slick trick I'm missing that means I don't have to take the whole frame off in order to re-shim?

Sounds like we are in the same boat!

I'm just trying to find a gas based solution vs. spinning the meter faster


So what was your flooring made out of, etc...?

my house was built about 6 years ago and, due to settlement (I guess) two of the three exterior doors are slightly mis-aligned. If you look closely, the top of the door hits the frame and there's a slight gap at the bottom.

Is this easy to fix or something that a professional should do? If there a slick trick I'm missing that means I don't have to take the whole frame off in order to re-shim?

Wow...39K ! that's pretty spendy!

The purpose of the upgrade is for a few reasons.

The Forced Air gas heater/AC is located in our 2nd story attic (seemed weird place to me...but I guess it saves floor space).

We have several vaulted ceilings and it's difficult to heat the house and not be super hot in some of the 2nd floor rooms and get it comfy in the 1st floor.

We thought "RFH" would be a good fit for us since the heat would rise from the floor to heat the coldest part of the house (1st floor and our MBath). I would use it to augment our forced air system...and every room has a t-stat controlled ceiling fan. (love those on hot summer nights)

All of the forced air registers are ceiling mounted in most of the rooms with the family room being feed at mid level (still a 2 story vaulted ceiling for the family room).

I would think that perhaps a on demand unit would feed the RFH, and we'll leave the 2yr old h2o heater for bathing needs.

Edit: what is "You need to do a manual J for your house" ?

the bottom rubber seal is above the threshold?
the top of the door hits the frame. hits side frame or top frame?

If your only doing it for comfort I'd look into the tank less heater and run 2 loops the Naviens have 98% efficiency you need a heat box as well, the tubing is attached to the floor with a fin then covered in thin set. You should have an inch of wood or backer-board or you can save space and use Ditra (my favorite), then the tile. for wood flooring just cover the tubing with gypcrete or thinset and lay the floor. If you're just doing it for comfort and you're keeping the original heat system forget the manual J.. It's a calculation for the heat loss in your house
BTW there is an HVAC sticky that might be more useful then this one

The vertical edge of the door scrapes the frame as it closes, so I can see markings on the frame about two inches down from the corner.

At the bottom of the doors vertical edge, the rubber weather seal isn't actually sealing it any more and I can see daylight thru it.

I was thinking I had two options:
1) remove the hinge at the top and chisel out about 5mm
2) take the frame off and re-shim

Thanks for DC and dollarbill for advice too

Let me break this down so you can check me that I got it right...

1-use a tank-less to run the floors.

Naviens ~ brand of floor heat system? or Tankless heater?

2-The heat box is like a distribution manifold

3-Ditra ~ ? Thinner then backerboard aka wonderboard?

4-This seemed to be out of scope for the HVAC thread

Thanks.

I'm looking to replace the insert in a vent free gas fireplace and am not sure on where to start, I bought the house as a foreclosure and the fireplace was already installed except the previous occupants took the control knob to the gas valve, I replaced the thermocouple since that didn't work either, I tried contacting the manufacturer Dexen and they told me they can't just sell me the handle and they advised for me to get an entire insert, they strongly suggested that I should contact a professional because of the dangers involved, never having a fireplace before, who services these things? also any tips on what steps to take to not be screwed over? I've included a picture of the part that is missing for reference, without it I'm not able to control the flames. Thanks.

1- tankless heater and heatbox http://www.navienamerica.com/prod...=ts_heater (only if your hot water heater won't carry the load)
2-yes made to work with tankless heater http://www.navienamerica.com/prod...n=boxes_01
3- comes in rolls looks like waffle http://www.schluter.com/6_1_ditra.aspx
4-I wasn't trying to discourage you from posting here I just thought the HVAC sticky might have some ...um HVAC tips

Can someone explain what this fitting is that goes on the gun? I tried it with something that slipped over the tip of the tube and only made a mess.

http://tomkile.yourkwagent.com/at...geId=89825

http://tomkile.yourkwagent.com/at...geId=89825

Need to get some caulk in a place where neatness doesn't matter and an extension, flexible or not, is essential.

I need to caulk the inner corner of a 2" protrusion that can't be reached with a ladder but can be reached if I lie prone on a flat roof and can get something to caulk with about 5 feet below the edge of the roof. This area cannot be seen from the ground and doesn't need scraping or any prep, so all I want to do is just give it a hefty smear with caulk. It's just that it's a few feet out of reach.

Suggestions?