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Ok I'm sorry I'm sorry...I know there have been a ton of car threads lately but I have a burning question, lol I have a 1999 Honda Accord ex v6 with about 94k miles on it. I've been the only one who has owned it. Last year (or early this year) my alternator died. Not surprising since it was 10 years old. Then about three weeks ago a mouse got in my engine and I had to take it somewhere to get it removed and have my air filters changed. (The car smelled like a dead mouse. It was awful). The guy told me he thought my battery sounded sluggish but I didn't notice it and thought he was just trying to sell me something so I said I'd wait on the battery. One week later the battery died I've had the battery since 2004 so it was to be expected. My husband went to autozone and got a new battery and installed it himself. Seems to work fine and I've driven around a fair amount in it since.My breaks have been squealing and the car kind of rumbles. I took it in again and they checked it over (break pads, fluids, etc) said it all looked fine. Just got my oil changed instead. So tonight I'm out. I go to start the car and the whole thing shudders...like the front of the car was rumbling so bad I thought something was rolling around in there. All the lights on my dash came on. Turn the car off...try starting it again three times and the same thing happens. I wait for a few minutes and then try again. It starts fine and gets me home with no problems. Running normally except for the few minor rumbles it's been doing lately that are hardly noticeable. Got home...tried starting the car several more times and each time was fine. The whole rumble/dash lights thing happened when my alternator went out last time. But I've only had it a year or less...it wouldn't go bad already I don't think. Could my husband have installed the battery wrong and it's affecting the alternator? I mean I don't think so but I'd have no idea. So my question is...I don't have a regular mechanic I go to and trust. Usually the car just needs tuneups except for lately so I take it someplace that has a good deal going on at the time. So I don't have anyone I can go to that I really trust. When I take the car in tomorrow...if they say "Oh you need a new alternator" should I question that? Could it be the timing belt doing that? I think it's due for a change. Or the transmission? I hope it's not that, lol. Plus I don't get the breaks squeaking but the other mechanic telling me it was fine. However I'm no mechanic..at ALL. I changed my brake fluid once and was terribly proud, lol. Heck I don't even know if maybe the mouse in the engine banged into something that got loose in the engine or if that's even possible. Was just curious if there was anything I should be on the lookout for when I go in cause I don't want them to see someone clueless in cars (me) and figure they can just take me for anything. I need to get a regular mechanic so I can build up a trust or something cause I know there are some really good ones out there...I just don't know of any in particular near me. tl;dr - car is shaking bad, dash lights all come on. Car runs fine now. Had a new alternator put in last year. New battery two weeks ago. Thanks for any help
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| 11-09-2010, 11:21 PM | |
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Check to see if your alternator is still under warranty When does the car shake? Is it a constant thing or only caused when you are doing something specific? Battery's are beyond easy to replace so I would hope that he put it in right.
With the brakes squeaking and the shaking could be you need your rotors looked at.![]() Btw for the burning.
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I'm not sure (if it's under warranty). I'll call the mechanic I went to to put it in and see if he knows. If it's been a year or less do you think it still would be? When it rumbles it's more when I'm sitting at a stop light or just started the car. It's not even a terribly huge rumble it's just something it didn't do before and that's why I notice it now. My brake light comes on occasionally but the guy I took it to said that one of my brake lights was probably getting ready to go out but since the brake light wasn't on when I took it in they couldn't tell which light it was. (Just another random fact). And gee thanks What's that song "Down down down in a burning ring of fire..""
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You would think he gave you the paper work on it.It could be several things. Might just need to get a tune up. |
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And I know no one can say "Ok Autumn...THIS is absolutely the problem with your car. I can tell just from what you said online." I just wanted to go in tomorrow somewhat armed with a little car knowledge. At this point they could tell me I need a new transmission and I'd probably believe them, lol. (I'd take it somewhere else for a second opinion but you know what I mean).
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I'm really wondering if it's the timing belt. I looked online and it seems like for my model/year it needs to be changed at around 90-100k miles and I'm there. Do you think a timing belt would cause that? I have No idea what an injection spider is, lol. I'll go look that up. It sounds expensive, lol. Thanks for your input
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When you say rumble...do you mean shaking as well as you have in your OP? or just a noise. Shaking = you feel vibrations in the car. Rumbling = you only hear.
i.e. Are you having a rough idle? or are you also shaking while the car is moving and your foot is on the gas. Are your dash lights continuously on? Is the 'check engine' light continuously on? If the check engine light is on try to find the corresponding ECU code. I know bad crank angle sensors can cause shaking during driving (as in, foot on gas). |
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It's more of a rough idle. When I'm driving/foot on the gas I don't feel anything like that at all. I mean it could be because the car is moving and I wouldn't feel it as much but if there Is any shaking when I'm driving I don't notice it. The dash lights aren't ever on except for when something happens like it did tonight. The oil light was on, the sensors showing all the doors/trunk open were on...everything was on. But that was only tonight and only those three times. The check engine light is always on. Even the Honda mechanics have issues getting it to turn off and usually tell me not to worry about it. I didn't even think that that might be something. I'll look that up. Thanks
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I was hoping that someone would say "Yes! I've had that and it was this" lol but knew that wasn't likely. Although medicchick did kind of do that and if that's the case it could be the fuel injection spider. I looked it up and there's loads of things having to do with that. Though I was reading that people with that problem had trouble going up inclines and sometimes felt like the car wasn't responding when they pushed on the gas which isn't the case. But the shaking/rumbling does happen like people have said it does with that. To be honest...I'm just hoping whatever it is isn't a zillion dollars to fix. (Doesn't everyone hope that? lol). I am pretty sure they're going to say I need to replace my timing belt because even if it's not causing these problems it's still time for it to be replaced. Jex. Are you KIDDING me? Back to the Future one and two are in my top ten favorite movies of all time. There's no way I would not have known that ![]() Edit: So no, I did not look it up ![]() Edit 2: Wait...so you were hoping I wouldn't know and go to the mechanic and ask them if it's the Flux Capacitor? Rat bastard
Last edited by Autumn; 11-10-2010 at 12:41 AM.. Reason: Automerged Doublepost |
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I'd definitely check out your check engine light: I don't know where the ECU/CEL light is on accords (on my car it's a little light underneath the middle of the front passenger side seat). The key needs to be in the ignition but the car doesn't have to be on. I think the key needs to be turned to maybe the 2nd position or something (check your manual). I think this website has all the codes (the ECU light works like a morse code light thingy - you have to follow the patterns of the light and use the key to determine what the car is saying is the problem). http://www.honda-tech.com/showthr...?t=14 If your check engine light is on, the ECU *should* be on. Figure out the code and look online and see if any of those issues correlate with rough idling. |
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