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Just read your 2nd post. Since all devices behaves the same so it might not be the laptop. Make sure the antenna is connected properly to the router and if that doesn't help then it's time to upgrade the router firmware or get another router for testing. Is there any wireless source close to the router (microwave oven, 2.4Ghz cordless phone, anything that uses wireless communications) - turn them off and retest. Last edited by teetee1; 05-30-2012 at 11:47 AM.. |
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| 05-30-2012, 11:43 AM | |
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- Build your own booster, such as this one [freeantennas.com].
- Wrap a piece of tinfoil around the WiFi adapter. - Buy a range extender/repeater [newegg.com] btw, how far is your router from the adapter? and how weak is your signal at that distance? I have degrees in both animal behaviorism and psychology and have come to the conclusion that animals make a hell of a lot more sense than people.
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![]() http://www.instructables.com/id/T.../?ALLSTEPS Using parts from previous wi-fi antennas I have built, I attempt to create a monster antenna, yet only to wind up with an ordinary cantenna wave-guide with funnel attachement. Step 1Harebrained idea I saw some info on how to make a Patch Style antenna for 802.11 networks. I thought if one director was good, maybe more would be better. So I used the dimensions from the patch antenna to determine an aperture for a conical wave-guide, this so that I could use my fire-extinguisher based cantenna as a wave-guide feed. The patch directions recommend going to a store like a dollar store for a lid. I happened to find some cutting boards that were just big enough and bought one to test in the microwave. Passing that test, I purchased more and decided to use 3/4" pvc tubing as a frame. W1GHZ This is the page where you can find the latest version of the waveguide calculator, which I used to find the right length for this cone, based on the diameter of my existing cantenna waveguide, and on the 242mm diameter directors. This software indicated a possible gain of 13 Db. If it came close to that is still unknown as I still need to learn how to measure that. This is also where I can learn how to measure my results, if I would just spend more time there! Seeing as I'm throwing in software links - Delta Cad is what I use to draw my designs. However, I took several years of drafting classes and what little of that I can still remember is not included in the help section that comes with Delta Cad, sorry. Step 2Holes I used a drill press with a 7/8" hole-saw to make holes in each cutting board for the 3/4" tubing to pass through. Step 3More Holes! To mount the can into two of the cutting boards, I used a dremel with a router attachment and followed a cutting line drawn with a compass. Step 4Trial Fitting After all the holes were done, I did a test fit. Here you can see what it was I had first thought of doing. The first time I tried this impressive looking array of directors, I found that I was getting less of a signal than without the directors. So I quickly hacksawed the frame just after the cone and went with that. Step 5The Cone This is what I felt was the most important part. Building the cone. I did this last so that any last minute inspiration might have a chance to indicate how I was going to make this part. I finally decided to use a sheet of UHMW polyethylene that I had kicking around, and just cover the outside with aluminum foil. I just didn't feel like using the aluminum panel I've been saving for an oil pan project. First I used some software to determine the length of the cone based on what the exit opening was going to be and the opening of my feed-can. Then I drew that in Deltacad to find what the short and long radius needed to be to lay out a pattern on the plastic sheet. The can is 83 millimeters in diameter, the exit diameter 242 mm, so that worked out to a layout radius of 4.5" & 13" Using Deltacad, I figured that the amount of the layout arcs I had drawn, needed to measure 23" point-to-point on the outer radius. The plastic sheet just happened to be 23" wide, so I measured to the exact center of the sheet before drawing my arcs, and just drew them all the way to the edges. Not having any better tool, here I can be seen using a tape measure to make a mark every inch along the 13" radius. The 4" radius was drawn with a compass. Then I connected the marks and used scissors to follow that line. I took a close-up photo of the paper you can see in the background, that's my notes for this project. This will show what I mean about the dimensions of the cone. Step 6Needle and Thread UHMW doesn't glue easy, so I sewed the edges of the cone together. First I drilled tiny holes using a micro-bit on my dremel, to let the needle pass through the plastic. I used dental-floss as thread, a standard sewing thread for all of my projects. Step 7Finished This antenna performs better than the dish antenna I had built, so I'm happy with it. And maybe the world is a better place now that I'm not weilding a truly Buck Rodgers death-ray of an antenna! From 50 yards, I'm almost getting a full strength signal. And at the shooting range I'm getting an 18 Mb connection from 300 yards. But the side-lobes are huge! The signal strength meter starts to drop at around 30 degrees to either side of the antenna. Good to find a signal quickly, but I want more focus. Now that this is what I built, I'm thinking about building a 5-gallon bucket antenna. If I can put the wave-guide inside of the cone, make the cone bigger, who knows? Step 8New Step! Let's aim this bad boy! Last edited by boltman2007; 05-30-2012 at 02:24 PM.. |
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![]() Even your iPad should have a downloadable app that can detect other WiFi signals. Do a site survery, check for other signals that could be interefering with your router and also see where in the house you are getting major signal loss.
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