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Will check them out for future reference. Any quick explanation of why not though? I know the issue of losing the fees paid down in the event of a total loss as that's not recoverable. But then again, with a quoted interest of 6.5%... Edit: They are refunding the difference in fees that wasn't removed last night while switching banks. Last edited by qwertyaas; 05-10-2012 at 04:26 PM.. |
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| 05-10-2012, 01:30 PM | |
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Rob |
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Credit was not an issue as I have a great credit rating. I figured it was a bait and switch just to pad their take home. They started me with the lower tier bank and then bumped me to Honda Financial (which of course I wanted) while keeping the original bank fee. Again, I am on Honda Financial now. I just think they put you on the other one just to bump up your fee. If only I knew this before hand. Very dumb of me and definitely a learning experience on my first lease. In the end, I'm still paying out what I though I would be after speaking and calculating out the 'deals' by the dealers around me. Doesn't make me any less angry and the way they handled this - and the way I went about this. Last edited by qwertyaas; 05-13-2012 at 10:26 AM.. |
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A lease has to be shopped around liek any other deal. I do my homework in advance and usually contact or call the internet manager or whoever answers email requests. Costco has an auto program that will direct to these people without hassle. Once you know what you want its a numbers game. I dont wait around in offices whille salespeople call their manager over etc and such nonsense. If you sell a product every day (for the most part) the same thing why is the price such a process? Many years ago my first lease was an online price when the internet was just on the fringe of mainstream. The dealer stuttered on the price and my business partner was with me. If we didnt get the internet deal, we were gone. These rest is history. That was in mid 90s. The vast majority of people do not know the concepts behind a lease. The main concept should start with SIGN AND DRIVE ONLY. No bullshit cap cost reductions. One more thing those TV deals, many are cap cost offers. I go in and get a better deal usually. In any case even if the TV deal was the best and I was willing to pay, it stil would be sign and drive only. I am unemotional and open to different brands and models to get the best deal. When it comes to cars to most consumers it is the second biggest purchase they will do, yet people are so foolish.
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Well,
Without seeing all of the necessary numbers, it's not really possible to really analyze your deal. Assuming you got a 2012 Civic LX sedan, you would be at 60% residual and .00130 money factor. A coupe has the same money factor but 57% residual. What was the actual price of the car (including destination, excluding everything else)? What is the total of extra costs you paid excluding your down payment? Without running any numbers and just judging by what you wrote, i'm guessing they got you for 500-1500 extra by confusing you with the changes. BTW, you mentioned not wanting to pay interest but .00130 MF is equivalent to 3.12% interest. Not the best, but not horrible considering you're only paying it on the % of the car you're paying for. An hour of research on edmunds could have gotten you all the info you needed to make a good deal. You would know what the car is selling for in your area and could have used one of the many lease calculators on the net to see exactly what you should be paying. Analyzing the deal now that it's done will do no good except maybe to teach you a lesson for next time. I'd recommend just living with this deal and familiarizing yourself with leasing for the next time. Contrary to other posters opinions, leasing CAN be an excellent option. With the right negotiated deal, you do a few things: preserve your cash, shift the risk to the finance company (Honda Finance leases have built in gap insurance), keep your options open (you can transfer your lease at anytime, or assuming you got a great deal often sell the car near the end and pocket the difference). I lease all my cars, and generally end up paying about $100/mo to drive them when the term is over. I sell them generally 2-4 months before the term is up and keep the extra cash. Combine that with the low risk and other investments I can do with the cash I didn't put down on the car it's a win for me. FYI, my lease deal with Honda carried a 58% residual and .00033 MF (.792% interest). I paid around 500 under invoice, and there was an additional $1000 factory-dealer incentive on the car. No out of pocket and i rolled the first payment in so a true sign and drive. If things go as planned, i'll drive this thing for 2 1/2 years, pay almost nothing for maintenance, and sell it and pocket a couple thousand at the end. The point is, once you know what to look for everything else falls into place. Don't worry about this deal, enjoy your new car and educate yourself before leasing the next one.
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