I really want one of these but I've got to get rid of my Dell 3007wfp. Anyone know what the exact panel model is in these? I've got a fancy HP with a broken screen and wouldn't mind switching out the housing if I could.
These are all LG S-IPS screens that are typically -A grade. They may have slight flaws in them for the high standards that Apple, Dell, HP, etc have, but are still going to be WAY better than your average TN panel you'll find.
I'd buy this in a heartbeat if I didn't use my current 40" TV along with two 21" Samsung monitors. For the price of my TV ($600 when I bought it), I could have had dual 27" S-IPS screens instead....oh well.
can some one comment on the list of video cards under "capability of print outs" section? I have a Radeon 5770, which has a "no" next to it. does that mean my vid card doesn't support this rez? (pretty sure the 5770 supports up to 2560x1600.... )
i bought this when they were around $400. Best investment i have made and i had before the all mighty samsung 27" 3d 120hz monitor. This screen is amazing. Got it be carefull cause this will be taking down soon. Mod don't allow ebay post from a non reputable seller.
1) The cheapest Korean monitors do NOT have scaling. While this reduces input lag a little, it is highly problematic for some people. You must have a video card capable of outputting 2560x1440 natively.* This is not a problem for most video cards, even rather old ones dating back to pre-2006. However, it is a potential problem with some laptops and even some desktop motherboards. An Xbox/PS3 game at 720p might be able to output still, because it's an exact multiple of 1440p, but don't count on it.
2) You need a spare power cord. This isn't costly to buy a spare. Chances are you can simply use your old monitor or PSU's power cord and plug it into the back half of the AC adapter that ships with the monitor.
3) Pixel perfect is worthless (they don't even check despite claiming to) and unnecessary anyway since dust particles are bigger than the pixels half the time. Save the money and just roll the dice; take the chance. If the monitor is dead on arrival you will have to ship it back, and maybe at high cost if the seller refuses to eat the cost. But otherwise rolling the dice should be fine.
4) No such thing as a free lunch. These panels are "A-" and were rejected by Apple/HP/Dell/etc. because of flaws, whether backlight bleeding or dead or stuck pixels or whatever. Sometimes the defect is hard to notice, and by and large an A- panel will be pretty much indistinguishable from an A+ panel for home users. Graphics professionals who demand color accuracy, etc. will want better than this.
5) Speaking of color accuracy and such, the cheapest Korean panels only come with dual-link DVI connectors and no onscreen display. No ability to adjust gamma, RGB, etc. You can only do very coarse bright/contrast.
6) If you need better calibration controls (RGB color, gamma, etc.) or want a scaler or want a connector other than dual-link DVI, you have to buy one of the pricier models that goes for $450+. Basically any monitor with a HDMI, DP, or VGA port has a scaler, and most of them also have onscreen displays to adjust color calibration and so forth.
I hope that helps.
* - This does not mean you need to run this monitor at 2560x1440, just that if you WANTED to do so, your video card COULD do so. For instance, you can run it at 1920x1080 if you want. Not sure why you'd want to as that is not the native resolution and will be blurrier... but you COULD do it.
I have also written 2 other long response posts in this thread that you may find useful:
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