Trinitron Monitor Problem

Hi I own a Sony Trinitron Multiscan500PS. I have problems with the GEOM and I try to reset the monitor, adjust the settings but its still the same. The sides are the screen are curved. How do I fix this problem? Here are pictures....
http://img585.imageshack.us/img58...mg096a.jpg
http://img100.imageshack.us/img10...mg097j.jpg
http://img266.imageshack.us/img26...img098.jpg

good resources:

sci.electronics.repair (UseNet -- search Google Groups)

http://www.electro-tech-online.com
http://www.ElectronicsPoint.com
http://www.BadCaps.net monitor and TV forums
http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/deflfaq.htm (vertical and horizontal problems)

Many free factory repair manuals:

http://www.ElektroTanya.com
http://www.Eserviceinfo.com


If the pincushion adjustment helps at all, then you probably have a dying electrolytic capacitor in the horizontal sweep circuit. Some monitor circuit boards are labelled by the function of each section, sometimes on the bottom side, but if yours isn't, trace the 4 wires going from the yoke magnet near the rear of the CRT (not at the small circuit board that plugs into the end of the CRT). The horizontal sweep circuit typically has the biggest heatsink on the main circuit board. You may also want to write down the markings on the big chips in the vicinity of those yoke wires because they typically handle the vertical or horizontal, and the data sheets for those chips can help with diagnosis, even though the example circuits won't exactly match the monitor's.

Never underestimate the importance of resoldering joints in a monitor, especially around components that run hot (big transistors, chips with heatsinks or fins, big resistors, anything darkened, including the circuit board) or are mechanically stressed (connectors, heavy stuff like transformers), Solder that looks dull or blued should be resoldered.

Be careful handling a heavy CRT because the center of gravity is only 1-2" from the front of the screen, meaning it can easily fall forward if set upright on a bed or sofa, so place some big cushions in front to catch it if or when it falls. Don't plug in the power while the back part of the case is removed. Also be really careful not to knock or scratch the glass CRT because it can implode and then explode violently, and I mean enough to embed chunks in the walls. Don't unplug the thick cable that goes to the suction cup on the side of the CRT because the hole there can give you a shock, even after it's already been discharged (charge comes back). The RepairFAQ has safety information you should read first.

Digi-Key sells high quality capacitors and doesn't charge much shipping for small orders. BadCaps is also good, and the owner gives expert advice in the forums.

I don't understand what to do, and I'm just 13 years old. Can you break it down into steps so I'll know what to do to fix the problem? I try pressing the reset button and nothing happened. I also try to Center it but when i adjust it to go up it shrinks, like the top of the monitor doesn't work.

Quote from larrymoencurly : good resources: sci.electronics.repair (UseNet -- search Google Groups) http://www.electro-tech-online.com http://www.ElectronicsPoint.com http://www.BadCaps.net monitor and TV forums http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/deflfaq.htm (vertical and horizontal problems) Many free factory repair manuals: http://www.ElektroTanya.com http://www.Eserviceinfo.com If the pincushion adjustment helps at all, then you probably have a dying electrolytic capacitor in the horizontal sweep circuit. Some monitor circuit boards are labelled by the function of each section, sometimes on the bottom side, but if yours isn't, trace the 4 wires going from the yoke magnet near the rear of the CRT (not at the small circuit board that plugs into the end of the CRT). The horizontal sweep circuit typically has the biggest heatsink on the main circuit board. You may also want to write down the markings on the big chips in the vicinity of those yoke wires because they typically handle the vertical or horizontal, and the data sheets for those chips can help with diagnosis, even though the example circuits won't exactly match the monitor's. Never underestimate the importance of resoldering joints in a monitor, especially around components that run hot (big transistors, chips with heatsinks or fins, big resistors, anything darkened, including the circuit board) or are mechanically stressed (connectors, heavy stuff like transformers), Solder that looks dull or blued should be resoldered. Be careful handling a heavy CRT because the center of gravity is only 1-2" from the front of the screen, meaning it can easily fall forward if set upright on a bed or sofa, so place some big cushions in front to catch it if or when it falls. Don't plug in the power while the back part of the case is removed. Also be really careful not to knock or scratch the glass CRT because it can implode and then explode violently, and I mean enough to embed chunks in the walls. Don't unplug the thick cable that goes to the suction cup on the side of the CRT because the hole there can give you a shock, even after it's already been discharged (charge comes back). The RepairFAQ has safety information you should read first. Digi-Key sells high quality capacitors and doesn't charge much shipping for small orders. BadCaps is also good, and the owner gives expert advice in the forums.

I don't understand what to do, and I'm just 13 years old. Can you break it down into steps so I'll know what to do to fix the problem? I try pressing the reset button and nothing happened. I also try to Center it but when i adjust it to go up it shrinks, like the top of the monitor doesn't work.

Quote from y0xdanny3xs : I try pressing the reset button and nothing happened. I also try to Center it but when i adjust it to go up it shrinks, like the top of the monitor doesn't work.

Did you press hard enough? I'm not being sarcastic, but some marginal buttons work only if you push them harder, especially if there's cracked solder on the switches behind the buttons.

The buttons are typically on a small circuit board that can flex enough in normal use to crack solder or even copper traces. If any or all of the front panel buttons don't respond, I think that's your problem. A lot of times the solder breaks because button assemblies weren't completely seated against the board before they were soldered. Breaks in the copper traces have to be fixed by bridging them with bare solid wire, not just by soldering over the cracks. Some of these small circuit boards are held in place with screws, but others use plastic clips molded into the case, and if any are cracked (maybe came off completely), it would be a good idea to glue them back with lacquer thinner, liquid plastic glue sold at hobby shops, or automotive throttle body spray (spray into a metal can, then use a Q-tip) so the board is less likely to crack again. Repairs need 48 hours to regain full strength. Do not use super glue.

Unfortunately,it can be impossible to reach that small circuit board without removing the big main circuit board, which can be a mess because of all the cables going to it. If you're lucky, those cables are long enough so you can access the small board without unplugging anything, but otherwise you have to remove maybe 10 cables from the board or even the end or side of the picture tube, which can be risky because the connection at the end of the tube may be glued on (cutting through the glue may scratch the glass and make the tube explode), and the connection on the side of the tube, under the big suction cup, first requires discharging 25,000 volts. Worse, that 25,000 volts will come back, all by itself, so you want ot stay away from that connection, and just before reattaching the high voltage cable you'll have to discharge the 25,000 volts again.
Also you can't discharge the voltage to just any ground because that could send a surge through the circuitry that damages chips or transistors. Instead you have to discharge to the metal hardware holding the tube in place. The connector under the suction cup has 2 prongs that have to be squeezed together so they can be pulled out of a 1/4" hole in the tube. This is usually done by sliding a screwdriver grounded to the tube's mounting hardware under the suction cup, and there's a possibility that the glass will break and cause a violent explosion.

Don't underestimate the risks of working on a monitor because unlike a computer, there's high voltage exposed throughout the monitor.

Don't take the monitor to a computer shop because their techs rarely know hot to fix monitors (those who do also tend to be the very best at computer repair).

Since your selling it anyway for $25, why bother risking danger/electrocution trying to fix since you'd probably only get about $25-30 for it in working condition anyway?
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