Technically you shouldn't clone HDD to SSD due to alignment issues, it's no longer a problem nowadays. Utilities such as Easeus To-Do Backup has options optimize the cloning process for SSDs. I don't think it's ever a problem to clone from SSD to another SSD.
I'd say they are customer returns because of the stuttering issues, they probably just powered them on and checked to make sure they are physically okay, and maybe updated the FW to Corsair's latest version. I think with the FW17 this is a fine drive, the numbers posted by KarateB0b definitely beats my old Vertex 2.
Unfortunately the "generic" FW update doesn't really seem to do anything at all.
After a few days of use the multitasking issues return in full swing.
You are really better off taking a look at intel's value line, a 80GB unit runs 106$ shipped NEW whitebox from amazon. They use a 12% overhead compared to a 5-8% overhead of traditional SSD's. They also have a 5 year warranty.
I give these drives a good 1 year of solid use for the traditional high-end user.
Don't go with sandforce brands if you have any notebook more than a year old because of the BSOD on sleep issues.
All in all you can get away with 6 months of reliable use from the intel line.
Don't forget to make regular backups because when it comes right down to it at the end of the day SSD's really are designed to be mainly boot drives.
Keep your user files on a 3rd or 4th mechanical drive jacked straight into the system (don't use hubs for that).
A good option for this is the Lacie Rikiki with their proprietary usb driver.
So far i've tested this FW update on 3 corsair nova 2 60gb drives and the multitasking issues returned with all 3 of them even after a simple restore.
It's ashame that phison (PISSON), corsair, and ocz can get away with this, but unless some gov. agency buts in early adopters really are screwed.
If you do decide to buy this drive I would just use it as a boot drive (mainly just for reading common files and booting the operating system). Then putting your user folder on a seperate mechanical drive.
I would also try the LPM fix found here.
Despite of what the OP says the fix CAN be used on the corsair.
Simply import the registry key as normal and then change the part of the key where is says "iaStor" to "iaStorV" save then re-import the key again.
MOST IMPORTANTLY (2 things)
1 .) I've also used microscope 2005 from the Hawke-PE 47 ISO to do a sector by sector level of the drive which completely alleviates initial stutter when installing the platform for the first time. Even if you don't have issues i recommend doing this anyways because you have no idea how much wear was put on the drive from the previous owner.
This is also not to be confused with "zero" ing out free space or secure overwriting freespace which are options in CCLeaner or other similar programs.
This will LEVEL each individual sector and can take up to 3-5 hours to fully complete (note for me it took a little over 2 hours)
Its easy to run but hard to get your hands on the ISO, burn it and find the right options.
But i assure you all it does work.
2 .) When formatting the drive leave about 6gb un-formatted , this seams to help speed up sequential small file write times.
If you can't do 6gb , try atleast 4 or 5.
And make sure the drive is properly aligned.
Good luck! And remember to make backups! and backups of your backups!
Let me know if i can be of any further help, i'll drop by soon to check on this thread.
ps: Be advised any firmware updates or use of sector leveling will obviously wipe out the drive completely and any saved data will be gone. I am not responsible for lost data.
Last edited by omjones65; 08-01-2012 at 08:52 PM..
a) Am I mistaken that the 35$ drive is the CSSD-V60GB2?
b) Given that the "Refurbished unit" has a UPC label and the receipt does not explicitly state that it is refurbished (Or even if that doesn't matter), is the rebate indeed usable for the 35$ option?
No the refurbished one has a different SKU and UPC, the model number shown is CSSD-V60GB2/RF2, the receipt shows that refurbished number as well, also serial number for the drive you bought too (like they do with laptops).
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