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This unit was on sale in July for $27 so it's not priced at the lowest it's been, although by using shop discover the cash back matches that price. It's a good unit as it's automatic, charges both AGM and standard batteries, offers three charging rates.
Quote from nohomers1: There seems to be alot of confusion over the different types of devices. Let me provide some explanation: 1) Portable battery jump (i.e. Peak 900):. These are a rechargeable battery that you keep in your car and hook up to your battery in the event it died (i.e. you left the lights on all night). It's the equivalent of hooking your car up to another car's battery with jumper cables. You plug the device back into an outlet to recharge it for it's next use. 2) Plug-in battery charger (i.e. this DieHard one): These are battery charges which plug into a wall and generally have adjustable current. They are intended for batteries which are dead or low and need complete recharging (i.e. a car that's been sitting for a few months while you were working on it, a lawn mower battery that hasn't been used since last year, etc). These are also used for completely recharging a dead battery. Remember that a completely dead battery will regain some of it's charge from the alternator in your car, but you ideally want to fully recharge your battery with a unit like this (or many shops will do it for you). I've heard that not fully recharging your battery after it's died and relying only on your alternator causes increased load on the alternator and may cause it to prematurely fail. I don't know how true that is in today's cars. 3) A battery maintainer: These are devices indended to prevent the scenario in #2 (i.e. prevent a battery that isn't being used from completely draining). This is ideal, as you really do not want an automotive battery to fully discharge. They are commonly used for vehicles that are used occassional/recreationally (i.e. motorcycles, vintage cars) or off-season downtime (i.e. lawn mowers). I have a Peak 600, and have used it countless times. I will probably buy this recharger to use to fully recharge my battery when I return home after having jumped it with the Peak. Last edited by Katman; 09-01-2012 at 06:51 AM.. |
| 09-01-2012, 06:43 AM | |
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So Long.... and Thanks for All the Fish!
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Picked one up using Shop Discover. Unfortunately, SD doesn't get the referral when we use the link through Discover. Wish we could have it both ways, My first priority is to save $$, but SD is, by far, my favorite website/forum!
Thanks OP! TU and reps! |
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· You're charging your battery while it's installed in the car, and your car has a dead short [thefreedictionary.com]. · The battery charger is plugged in, turned-on and the leads are touching. · The battery itself has an internal short. In any of these situations, Since the charger just has to see that minimum Voltage, all it takes is another ~12V source to start the charging process. Connect the charger to the dead battery and jump it for an instant from a jump box or another vehicle (ignition off recommended). The charger sees voltage and turns on. PITA, works for me, but certainly not convenient. AFAIK, they're all that way now. I've been looking for an old "unsafe" charger, myself. Also, you heard right. Using your car to charge dead batteries with kill the alternator, sooner or later. It's just not built for that. Last edited by K6-2; 09-01-2012 at 09:40 AM.. |
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I have an old car with the alternator now giving out about 13V. Mechanic said that the diode is 'dead'. I don't really know what that means. The alternator seems to be running fine for now but probably won't last long. Is this battery charger a good thing to have instead of replacing the alternator? Not planning to spend more money on the old car. Should I use this to charge the battery from time to time?
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Dying Alternator
I am not ASE certified, but I do have an associates degree in Automotive Technology. Your alternator is dying. The diode he refers to is inside your alternator. Finding a replacement one would not only be a PITA, but probably wouldn't be financially beneficial once you factor in your time invested. Most passenger car alternators that I've dealt with put out 17 or 18 volts. As they start to go bad, they put out less. You may be able to drive a little longer (a day or two, maybe a few months depending on when your alternator decides to call it quits). This charger seems like a good deal, but it is not feasible as a replacement for your alternator. The car's alternator keeps your car running after the battery's electricity initially starts it. The moment the charger gets unplugged the battery will start to dye and within 20 minutes you will be stuck wherever you have driven your car to. If you do decide to buy this charger, the 2 amp trickle charge is the safest setting that is least likely to damage your battery. The rapid charges, if used repeatedly, can shorten your battery's lifespan. Additionally that 50amp setting is for immediately starting your car. Do not charge the battery on the 50amp setting. Hope all this helps, and good luck. If you are somewhat mechanically inclined or know someone that is, you may be able to get a used alternator from a local junkyard. My alternator died on my accord about 4 years ago and I snagged a used one for $30.00 at a local junkyard. Of course I did burn about 3 hours pulling it off and swapping it out at my house. Still, just a cheaper alternative to buying one from napa, autozone, etc... Additionally, dealerships and parts stores can usually tell you which models are interchangeable. My accord's a/c compressor is also found on some integras and the honda odyssey van. Anyway, good luck! |
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