Best-of-the-best router vs. adding an extender

We've been using the supplied 2Wire residential gateway/router that comes with AT&T Uverse for about 3 years now. After low signal issues for the past 6 months, I finally bought a Netgear router and disabled the wireless on the Uverse gateway.

The speed is definitely better with the new router (hey, I can finally stream to my PS3!), but the signal is spotty in the far parts of the house. If I'm sitting on one side of my bedroom, the connection is fine. If I move over one or more feet, the speed just drops. Like websites won't even load.

Here's the router we bought: Netgear WNDR3700 [bestbuy.com].

The question is, to improve the range (3300sqf house), do I exchange the router for a better model, or will an extender be better? This [amazon.com] chart halfway down the page shows a "good, better, best" ranking of Netgear routers. I'm not sure if it's reliable or not.

The best option is a hardwired link between two parts of the house and enabling wifi on both the 2 wire and netgear. If the type of wireless offered by the 2wire isn't satisfactory, add another 802.11n ap/router connected via ethernet. Powerline is another option but comes with plenty of hassles and headaches.

Assign all ap/routers the same SSID/key and security type but put the on different channels, 1, 6, 11 only. This way your devices will roam between the ap's more easily. If you really want max range, some of the products from companies like http://www.engeniustech.com/ are worth considering

When you use a wireless extender the available bandwidth of the wireless link is diminished. It is another option, but seriously investigate a wired link first. A lot of newer homes are actually prewired for data.

When connecting routers as access points, assign them an available non-conflicting ip address, disable the dhcp server and use the lan ports only.

Quote from jkee : The best option is a hardwired link between two parts of the house and enabling wifi on both the 2 wire and netgear. If the type of wireless offered by the 2wire isn't satisfactory, add another 802.11n ap/router connected via ethernet. Powerline is another option but comes with plenty of hassles and headaches. Assign all ap/routers the same SSID/key and security type but put the on different channels, 1, 6, 11 only. This way your devices will roam between the ap's more easily. If you really want max range, some of the products from companies like http://www.engeniustech.com/ are worth considering When you use a wireless extender the available bandwidth of the wireless link is diminished. It is another option, but seriously investigate a wired link first. A lot of newer homes are actually prewired for data. When connecting routers as access points, assign them an available non-conflicting ip address, disable the dhcp server and use the lan ports only.

Running a cable is out of the question. I have tried before and it's not possible without making a mess, to say the least.

So......would a better router be best or an extender? I know extenders take the signal and only output up to 50% of the original signal. Do the new "AC" wireless routers require "AC" adapters to make use of the speed gains? I don't know much about AC yet... In other words, if you have a wireless-n router, you need a wireless-n adapter on each device to get the speed gains over g.

you can try changing the channel and can you use 5ghz you may also want to look if under the 2.4 you can pick a wider bandwidth

http://www.dd-wrt.com/wiki/index....z_vs_40MHz

you may want to try moving the router a little bit my house is 3200 sq ft 2 stories my office is in the middle on one side of the first floor and it works well everwhere

Quote from akkkmed : Running a cable is out of the question. I have tried before and it's not possible without making a mess, to say the least. So......would a better router be best or an extender? I know extenders take the signal and only output up to 50% of the original signal. Do the new "AC" wireless routers require "AC" adapters to make use of the speed gains? I don't know much about AC yet... In other words, if you have a wireless-n router, you need a wireless-n adapter on each device to get the speed gains over g.

Wireless Repeaters halve the throughput of data that they could provide if they were merely access points . There is also additional latency when connecting through an extender.

Yes, to get 802.11ac speeds, you both sides of the connection must support the 802.11ac standard.

Quote from akkkmed : The speed is definitely better with the new router (hey, I can finally stream to my PS3!), but the signal is spotty in the far parts of the house. If I'm sitting on one side of my bedroom, the connection is fine. If I move over one or more feet, the speed just drops. Like websites won't even load. ..... The question is, to improve the range (3300sqf house), do I exchange the router for a better model, or will an extender be better? This [amazon.com] chart halfway down the page shows a "good, better, best" ranking of Netgear routers. I'm not sure if it's reliable or not.

So how far is the router from the spot in your bedroom to which you refer? Where else is it spotty? What kind of obstacles are there in between (walls, electrical interference, etc)?

Quote from akkkmed : Running a cable is out of the question. I have tried before and it's not possible without making a mess, to say the least. So......would a better router be best or an extender? I know extenders take the signal and only output up to 50% of the original signal. Do the new "AC" wireless routers require "AC" adapters to make use of the speed gains? I don't know much about AC yet... In other words, if you have a wireless-n router, you need a wireless-n adapter on each device to get the speed gains over g.

In this case it might be worth it to get it professionally done. Shouldn't be that much since you are stringing one wire.

Once you start playing around with repeaters it can get very dicey very quickly. The easiest solution IMO is to get yourself two Open-Mesh boxes to cover the whole house. If that's too pricey for you then get a second box that supports DDWRT, install it and enable repeater mode. I wouldn't start screwing around with WDS, it's a turd and different company's routers likely won't work with each other.

Quote from menace33 : So how far is the router from the spot in your bedroom to which you refer? Where else is it spotty? What kind of obstacles are there in between (walls, electrical interference, etc)?

The bedroom is on the second floor, opposite side of the house. The router is in the family room next to the model/gateway and TV/peripherals.

You could always try a pair of these: http://www.open-mesh.com/index.ph...outer.html
Kind of pricey but it will out perform a lot of the other options.

Generally you can't run cables in an existing house without cutting a few holes in the drywall but usually it doesn't require that many holes or holes that are that obvious and drywall isn't that hard to patch. Take a close look a how closets line up between levels, "wet walls" where your plumbing goes between levels, stairwells, look at access to attics, basements, and crawlspaces.

Quote from akkkmed : The bedroom is on the second floor, opposite side of the house. The router is in the family room next to the model/gateway and TV/peripherals. Attachment 1443346

EDIT: Looking at your floor plan, I but you could run a cable(s) between those two points with 6 wall plate sized holes in the dry wall one low and one high in each location, 3 of which would receive wall plates and 3 a patch job (or blank covers if you don't want to patch). Assuming attic access and an extension drill bit. Use a fine tooth drywall saw or mini hack saw for cleaner cuts and less dust.

Quote from akkkmed : The bedroom is on the second floor, opposite side of the house. The router is in the family room next to the model/gateway and TV/peripherals. Attachment 1443346

Hmmm any way to move it to the livingroom? If not, I'm thinking 5 GHz would not travel well through those walls and ceiling so 2.4 GHz will be your best bet as far as wireless N. If you can't close down the distance, then perhaps research wireless N routers that excel over distance. The Linksys/Cisco E2000, E3000, E3200, E4200, and the newer EA3500 and EA4500 would do you up right, but more expensive. I've never been a fan of the wireless Netgears after their first forays into wireless G. Too many reviews of spotty connections, intermittent drops, overheating, etc, etc. though one could argue that those reviews are said of just about all wireless router series. I've just been distrusting of Netgears and trust in the Cisco brands more. To each their own, but it may be a situation where this Netgear you currently have is doing all it can and this is all you'll get from it. I'm sure that any EMI/RFI of the kitchen and livingroom as well as the walls/ceiling aren't doing you any favors.

Quote from jkee : You could always try a pair of these: http://www.open-mesh.com/index.ph...outer.html Kind of pricey but it will out perform a lot of the other options. Generally you can't run cables in an existing house without cutting a few holes in the drywall but usually it doesn't require that many holes or holes that are that obvious and drywall isn't that hard to patch. Take a close look a how closets line up between levels, "wet walls" where your plumbing goes between levels, stairwells, look at access to attics, basements, and crawlspaces. EDIT: Looking at your floor plan, I but you could run a cable(s) between those two points with 6 wall plate sized holes in the dry wall one low and one high in each location, 3 of which would receive wall plates and 3 a patch job (or blank covers if you don't want to patch). Assuming attic access and an extension drill bit. Use a fine tooth drywall saw or mini hack saw for cleaner cuts and less dust.

Thanks for the reply. I tried running a cable across the house a year or so ago and it didn't work. I wanted to drop the cable from by bedroom heat vent or cold air return and route it through the basement (I don't care about the codes it would've broken). For some reason, both vents are angled and I couldn't make any progress. We renovated our house a while ago, so I think the builders did something funky with my vents.

We also have wet plaster, so patchwork isn't really simple. Even if it is, my parents would kill me if I start drilling holes

Considering the old router gave me the distance I needed in my room, I think there has to be another router that will give similar distance but with better performance (like menace33 said). I've been using 2.4GHz with the Netgear, so I don't think that's the issue.

I don't understand the Mesh system. I've seen it mentioned here before, but can someone explain it to me? How does to differ from normal routers/access points?

What is the difference between access points, extenders, and bridges?

Quote from akkkmed : I don't understand the Mesh system. I've seen it mentioned here before, but can someone explain it to me? How does to differ from normal routers/access points? What is the difference between access points, extenders, and bridges?

WDS is a basic form of mesh. However, the open mesh boxes use their own system and are designed to scale and perform at a much higher level. They have implemented things like intelligent node routing and have built in hardware monitoring so the box reboots itself if it freezes. So if you have two mesh boxes they will automatically detect one another and figure out which is the master node and which is the secondary node. They basically then setup a WiFi network with multiple access points which is all seamless to the user. You connect to one network and it remains one network no matter where you roam in the house. You can do this with two routers that support WDS or two routers with DDWRT, but the value add on the mesh system is simplicity and setup. Open Mesh also has an interface that constantly monitors your system, so from anywhere in the world you can immediately know the status of your network.

Wireless access point is any wireless device with network access (typically LAN access), it could or could not be a router as well. Extender usually refers to secondary access points that are repeating and relaying wireless signals from the primary access point. Bridge is anything that links two media types, e.g., WiFi to Ethernet, without doing any routing. Most wireless access points will act as bridges between the WiFi and the LAN ports.

I guess the most important question is, how much are you willing to spend on this? I agree with Menace33 that one of the newer high-end Cisco/Linksys boxes will likely solve your problem - you're not sending the signal THAT far.

Quote from akkkmed : We also have wet plaster, so patchwork isn't really simple. Even if it is, my parents would kill me if I start drilling holes Considering the old router gave me the distance I needed in my room, I think there has to be another router that will give similar distance but with better performance (like menace33 said). I've been using 2.4GHz with the Netgear, so I don't think that's the issue. I don't understand the Mesh system. I've seen it mentioned here before, but can someone explain it to me? How does to differ from normal routers/access points? What is the difference between access points, extenders, and bridges?

You're right plaster is harder to deal with. It might even yield worse wifi performance than drywall.

Yes, different routers, locations of the router, antenna position/external antennas will all effect the signal.

The open mesh system is bascailly designed to make it easier to setup a sprawling wifi network. The dual band open mesh products use the 5ghz band to link the nodes and the 2.4 ghz band to serve the clients which yields higher throughput than a single band solution.