60" Panasonic Viera TC-P60U50 600Hz Plasma HDTV + $18 Amazon Credit $900 + Free Shipping

Quote from RandomDealz : The example I gave was from Panasonic's current 2012 models, below is a pdf of the manual. Look on page 62-63 it will list the power consumption is between 295-397 watts for the different sizes. You can't operate TV's that consume that amount of energy 5 hours a day and only pay $16 a year. Use this site to estimate what it's going to cost you annually.http://www.citytrf.net/costs_calculator.htm

No way in hell are you drawing the MAXIMUM RATED Wattage from your 42" Plasma. Do you have every single setting turned all the way up, with the volume maxed?

The number that's eluding you is the Average Power Consumption which measures the normal power draw of the device when turned on.

Again, for your education we'll pick something insanely bad ass and expensive ($3700), the 65" Panasonic Plasma 65" TC-P65VT50 3D Smart TV:

http://shop.panasonic.com/shop/model/TC-P65VT50
On Mode Average Power Consumption
159 W

Plugging in the math on your link I get:
Wattage: 159
Used 24 Hours per day
8.7 Cents perKWh

and get:

Cost Per Day: 33 cents
per quarter: $30.29
per year: $121.18

So $120 dollars to run the biggest 3D plasma in the entire Panasonic line 24 hours a day 365 days in a row...

It would cost about $90 a year to run the OP's tv continously for 8760 hours (24*365)...

Just stop with the nonsense dude

Quote from RandomDealz : Wasn't my scenario, if you bothered reading the whole thread. If you want to believe you can operate 3 plasma TV's all the time and only have your electric bill go up $50 annually, dream on. Obviously you aren't intelligent enough, to read the whole text before replying like a fool.

The guy didn't literally mean he runs the TVs 24/7. Give it a rest already.

OT. My mom just picked up the 60 U50 ($948 Walmart) after I finally convinced her that plasma was superior to LED/LCD. The TV is awesome. Its pretty much the same as the UT50 minus the smart features/3D. Also, the motion is supposedly slightly better on the UT. CNET reviewed both models.

And for anyone looking to buy the 50 inch U50, Costco, has had it on sale for $599.99 for over a month. It ended on the sep 29 but just came back yesterday again until Oct 27th. The model number is U54 instead of U50. Its the SAME EXACT TV. Warehouses have different model number or something. http://www.costco.com/Panasonic-5...reId=10301

So if you want a new TV, without the BS 3d and smart features, this is easily the best TV/performance. Second goes to the LG Pa6500 (also on sale at costco $800). If you're viewing in a bright room, I would look LED. It is very reflective, so be prepared to put shades up to block out the sun. I like viewing in pitch black rooms, so its not a factor for me. Hope I helped.

Mike

Quote from Hersh007 : No way in hell are you drawing the MAXIMUM RATED Wattage from your 42" Plasma. Do you have every single setting turned all the way up, with the volume maxed? The number that's eluding you is the Average Power Consumption which measures the normal power draw of the device when turned on. Again, for your education we'll pick something insanely bad ass and expensive ($3700), the 65" Panasonic Plasma 65" TC-P65VT50 3D Smart TV: http://shop.panasonic.com/shop/model/TC-P65VT50 On Mode Average Power Consumption 159 W Plugging in the math on your link I get: Wattage: 159 Used 24 Hours per day 8.7 Cents perKWh and get: Cost Per Day: 33 cents per quarter: $30.29 per year: $121.18 So $120 dollars to run the biggest 3D plasma in the entire Panasonic line 24 hours a day 365 days in a row... It would cost about $90 a year to run the OP's tv continously for 8760 hours (24*365)... Just stop with the nonsense dude

He isn't the sharpest knife in the drawer that's for sure. Somehow he managed to get into arguments with several people on the same thread who could no longer ignore his ignorance without saying something.

Plasma doesn't cost much more than LCD to operate and considering the picture it is well worth it to me

Bought one earlier today, can't wait!

Regarding plasma power usage

The best way to know how many watts your electronic device is using is to spend $17 and buy a Kill A Watt meter. I have 2 plasmas - a three year old Samsung 50" and a ten year old 42" Panasonic. I watched the meter connected to the 42" while tonight's debate was on and because the picture content was for the most part unchanging as it was either candidate on camera the meter was fairly steady showing around 220 watts. On other content I've seen the watts go up past 300 during very bright scenes and then down to the low 100s on dark scenes. The wattage drawn is directly related to how bright the phosphors are being driven. This set being ten years old wasn't designed for any claims towards energy savings and draws quite a bit more power on average than the 50" I have. Almost all newer plasmas have been designed to be less power hungry than older sets to address consumer concerns about power usage. If you have a plasma operating in "torch" mode and consistently watch very bright content I believe it is quite possible to use 300 watts on average for smaller sets like a 42" but a properly calibrated picture will use much less. They will always draw more current than a comparable size LCD and I'm sure that most everyone knows that by now.
I ordered this 60" before they ran out today and I'm interested in finding out how this larger size/newer power conscious design will compare to the older sets.

Don't forget to go to highdefjunkies forum to get the calibration settings and the break-in slides.
And congrats on the the new TV.

Quote from mclebron23 : Jesus, please shut up. The guy didn't literally mean he runs the TVs 24/7. Give it a rest already. OT. My mom just picked up the 60 U50 ($948 Walmart) after I finally convinced her that plasma was superior to LED/LCD. The TV is awesome. Its pretty much the same as the UT50 minus the smart features/3D. Also, the motion is supposedly slightly better on the UT. CNET reviewed both models. And for anyone looking to buy the 50 inch U50, Costco, has had it on sale for $599.99 for over a month. It ended on the sep 29 but just came back yesterday again until Oct 27th. The model number is U54 instead of U50. Its the SAME EXACT TV. Warehouses have different model number or something. http://www.costco.com/Panasonic-5...reId=10301 So if you want a new TV, without the BS 3d and smart features, this is easily the best TV/performance. Second goes to the LG Pa6500 (also on sale at costco $800). If you're viewing in a bright room, I would look LED. It is very reflective, so be prepared to put shades up to block out the sun. I like viewing in pitch black rooms, so its not a factor for me. Hope I helped. Mike

Quote from bluetrep : this is funny, Las Vegas has a huge Amazon dist. and return center but no sales tax

They have another one up North (Fernley, NV). I'D always thought they charged tax in NV.

Quote from RandomDealz : Wasn't my scenario, if you bothered reading the whole thread. If you want to believe you can operate 3 plasma TV's all the time and only have your electric bill go up $50 annually, dream on. Obviously you aren't intelligent enough, to read the whole text before replying like a fool.

My energy bill has gone up roughly $50 maybe a few $$ less with my 3 plasma's. Not sure why it's hard to understand. We do not run them 24/7. I never said they run 24/7..

Quote from kiddragonsoft : Don't forget to go to highdefjunkies forum to get the calibration settings and the break-in slides. And congrats on the the new TV.

Thanks. Tried telling my mom and step dad but they're both dumb. I said no logos ect on the TV for at least 6 days. I go down stairs the second day we owned the TV and the Giants game is on. Whatever. It was only that one time and basically only HBO 16:9 movies have been running for the past 4-5 days. The brightness and contrast I kept both below 60, but just raised the contrast to 100 since I past the 100 hour mark. You think that ok?

Can you link me to the calibration settings from highdefjunkies? I would appreciate it. I used David Katzmaier...http://forums.cnet.com/7723-19410...-settings/

Also ran these slides for almost a day http://www.hometheatershack.com/f...lay-2.html

My brother and I might split one for our bedroom. We own a 5.1 monitor 60s and 40s setup, but our TV sucks which is a 42 inch Hannspree. Got pretty bad banding on it.

Wow, this thread got vicious since I last checked.

I guess the upshot to all the anti-plasma misinformation that's still floating around is that we can keep expecting great deals on plasmas since no one wants to buy them....

Quote from mclebron23 : Thanks. Tried telling my mom and step dad but they're both dumb. I said no logos ect on the TV for at least 6 days. I go down stairs the second day we owned the TV and the Giants game is on. Whatever. It was only that one time and basically only HBO 16:9 movies have been running for the past 4-5 days. The brightness and contrast I kept both below 60, but just raised the contrast to 100 since I past the 100 hour mark. You think that ok? Can you link me to the calibration settings from highdefjunkies? I would appreciate it. I used David Katzmaier...http://forums.cnet.com/7723-19410...-settings/ Also ran these slides for almost a day http://www.hometheatershack.com/f...lay-2.html My brother and I might split one for our bedroom. We own a 5.1 monitor 60s and 40s setup, but our TV sucks which is a 42 inch Hannspree. Got pretty bad banding on it.

yes. break in slides are virtually pointless. just make sure the pixel orbiter (or whatever they are calling now) is turned on.

Quote from AGpennypacker : yes. break in slides are virtually pointless. just make sure the pixel orbiter (or whatever they are calling now) is turned on.

Thats what I figured. Slides are only for pre calibration, correct?

BTW, how many hours should I wait before gaming, watching sports, or any things with black bars? I've heard at least 200,but want some other opinions on that. Thanks.

Quote from mclebron23 : Thats what I figured. Slides are only for pre calibration, correct? BTW, how many hours should I wait before gaming, watching sports, or any things with black bars? I've heard at least 200,but want some other opinions on that. Thanks.

Having been a plasma owner for 10 years I can speak in reference to my experience. My advice would be to enjoy your new TV and try to not buy into the paranoia that seems to creep into thoughts about plasma ownership. While I believe that they do require a little more care and feeding than a LCD display they aren't fragile flowers that need to be babied.

I completely understand the desire to protect your new investment but don't let it get in the way of turning the TV on and watching it. My advice would be to mix the source material with full 16:9 viewing and the less than full screen video from BD/DVD as your mood dictates. Watch The Big Bang Theory and laugh. Watch the Blu Ray Avengers and say "wow" and when you find yourself smiling know that your plasma is happy also with these full screen source signals. When your viewing pleasure leads you to a 2:39 movie with black bars top and bottom you might notice brief anomalies related to image retention (not "burn in") but they are short lived and your display will be fine.

I remember from years ago the advice for breaking in a new car or motorcycle would be to vary the operating conditions such as not just driving at highway speeds for the first 500 miles but mixing it up a bit. I would apply those easy to live with recommendations to your new plasma. Don't deny what you want to watch for 100 or 200 hours. That's what I'll be doing when I turn my new one on. Good luck!

Quote from mclebron23 : Thats what I figured. Slides are only for pre calibration, correct? BTW, how many hours should I wait before gaming, watching sports, or any things with black bars? I've heard at least 200,but want some other opinions on that. Thanks.

right. but i would echo what harley said. people on here were grabbing pitchforks when i told them i didn't do the break in slides for my 65st30. i enjoyed the set, but kept it on the low factory settings and tried to keep the high contrast (black bars next to white scenes) to a minimum and have full screen content. and then a month or two into it, i calibrated it to my liking. the set looks perfect.

100hrs of break in, is more than enough IMO. since you already did it, no harm no foul but i wouldn't worry about waiting another 100hrs. yes the break in slides are only for breaking in, and then if you look people will have calibration settings to use ONLY after the break in slides. seems like hogwash to me, because every set will not calibrate the same. every set will not be in the same lighting environment. if you want a "perfect calibration" you can get the software or hire a professional ( all for $$) but honestly the 60u doesnt have the higher calibration tweaks that are available on the gt and vt.

my advice would be to try some of the listed online calibration settings and see if you like it. if not then play with it yourself and find your sets "sweet spot." just remember the lower contrast and brightness that you can get away with, the less likely to have image retention (which is not a big deal at all) and it will use less energy. most of all, enjoy your new set!