FAR Oil G-Oil 5w30 5 quarts October 2012

Quote from avalon : One of my rebates is from 7/12 and I highly doubt I'll have it on 10/12 (not mailed yet) so that's 90+ days or 13+ weeks.

Quote from GunMan : My rebate has definitely taken longer than the claimed "4-6 weeks". More like 4-6 months...

Quote from link626 : ... the last rebate has been 'in process' since august 10, mailed in July 13. Still no update, and no sign of check being cut. So, almost 3 months now. gotta make sure the company isn't in trouble before i dump more money. $28 is even more expensive than Mobil 1 if you don't get the rebate.

I sent in my rebate form for the prior deal in early mid July. After a couple weeks it hadn't shown up on rapid-rebates.com (can you say oxymoron?).

Sent an inquiry to them, to which they replied they didn't receive anything from me. Since I was half expecting this, I had photocopied everything and had to fax that to them. After about a week they had it "in their system" where it has sat at "currently being processed" for over 6 weeks.

Since it says on the status web page that it takes 4-6 weeks, I sent another message, to which I got this reply:
"Thank you for contacting us, and apologize for the confusion, while Garvin makes note on their tracking website that the timeframe is 4 to 6 weeks, this is a standard response from them, however, due to the high dollar value of our rebates, the scheduled timeframe is 8 to 10 weeks as noted on the our rebate forms."
(based on the punctuation, their attorney must have written this )

I fully expect that in another 2-4 weeks they are going to say my rebate was rejected for some BS reason. Then I'll contact the BBB and Attorney General so I can get my "closure".

In the past I've only bought items with rebates if the price was good before the rebate (which this oil isn't), expecting the worst from the rebate houses. I made an exception on this one and relearned my lesson.

If you're planning on going for this one I'd recommend using registered mail and having copies of everything, then planning on a loooong wait.

Good luck!

is it necessary to use synthetic oil filters when using full synthetic oil?

As others , waiting on the rebate from last time around . Not sure if I'll pull the trigger again , as I'll just go back to Castrol Edge for the same price .

Quote from Firebird : is it necessary to use synthetic oil filters when using full synthetic oil?

No such thing. Although, it's probably arguably better to use a better filter when extending the change interval

Quote from az_r2d1 : The mini probably doesn't take this oil. Those high mileage intervals usually require better oil (read: more expensive)

Probably? Or not. I'm thinking this synthetic is better than any dino oil as far as sludging, etc. I know conventional oil looks like crap after 5000miles, and synthetics don't. That tells me something.

And I trust the SPI rating, which says it's fine.

Quote from thejaredhuang : Dang your mini has SRBs attached to it? 8000 miles is about one orbital trip.

Oh, I thought you caught my 15,000mph typo. It's a small car...I can get by with BSM's.

[QUOTE=Troublestylist;53673700]No such thing. Although, it's probably arguably better to use a better filter when extending the change interval
QUOTE]

just as i thought. i questioned it because i was looking at the purolator website. they sell different kinds of oil filters... regular and synthetic.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/G-Oil-...t/16928048 buy and pick up?

Quote from avalon : http://www.sec.gov/Archives/edgar...gingindent

Sounds alot like Facebook...

Quote from Firebird : is it necessary to use synthetic oil filters when using full synthetic oil?

No. Any cheapo filter will work fine. I do hate Fram though.

Quote from Troublestylist : Probably? Or not. I'm thinking this synthetic is better than any dino oil as far as sludging, etc. I know conventional oil looks like crap after 5000miles, and synthetics don't. That tells me something.

How the oil looks means almost nothing.

Quote from Glock34 : How the oil looks means almost nothing.

Almost nothing? I agree. But I'm still happier leaving oil in that looks cleaner rather than leaving oil in that looks black.

Your mileage may vary.

Quote from Troublestylist : Almost nothing? I agree. But I'm still happier leaving oil in that looks cleaner rather than leaving oil in that looks black. Your mileage may vary.

Color is not a very good indication at all. Your oil may look nice and golden, but it could also mean the oil didn't do a good job of picking up deposits/dirt/etc. The only way to tell is to get an oil analysis. I haven't had any issue with changing my oil every so and so miles; therefore I don't care about used oil analysis myself.

Quote from GSteg : Color is not a very good indication at all. Your oil may look nice and golden, but it could also mean the oil didn't do a good job of picking up deposits/dirt/etc. The only way to tell is to get an oil analysis. I haven't had any issue with changing my oil every so and so miles; therefore I don't care about used oil analysis myself.

Then where exactly did it leave that dirt??? Most likely in the filter....which is a good thing. Or it didn't exist in the first place.

If you're saying dirty oil is better than clean oil, I'll have to disagree with you unless you have evidence to support your claim.

For example, this guy disagrees with you. I could probably find more.

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/und...e-oil1.htm

Saying "so and so" miles makes you sound kinda vague, too.

You can have varnish on your valve cover, pistons, connecting rods. If they're not cleaned up by the oil, then it never made its way to the filter.

I didn't say dirty oil is better. I said color is not a good indication and that is true. You'll see people with 8,000 miles oil change and the used analysis results will show their oil is still good to go, even if the color has been 'dirty looking' since 4,000 miles.

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-Engli...anged.aspx

I say 'so and so' because I have 5 different cars. They're all driven differently with some getting the synthetic oil treatment. Would it make you feel better if I listed out the oil change intervals for each cars, despite having no relevance to the topic?

Quote from Troublestylist : For example, this guy disagrees with you. I could probably find more. http://auto.howstuffworks.com/und...e-oil1.htm

Hrm.. used oil analysis with concrete evidence showing actual metal count, vs guessing by color.

Now what happens if you run Royal Purple oil, which starts out as dark purple? Or how about Castrol synthetic (german version) that's dark green?

Quote from GSteg : Hrm.. used oil analysis with concrete evidence showing actual metal count, vs guessing by color. Now what happens if you run Royal Purple oil, which starts out as dark purple? Or how about Castrol synthetic (german version) that's dark green?

So, you're saying that dirty oil could be good, but clean oil is always good. That I can agree with. I just said clean oil was better.

But then you imply it could be some special crappy oil that leaves varnish inside your engine? And changing it to some other special oil would remove that varnish? Now you're getting wacky again...unless you're claiming synthetics leave less gunk...which I already said.

And I can still tell the difference between purple, green, and black. And since I don't use german oil or royal purple anymore, I don't have that problem. I guess if you do, you're not able to make that assessment. Thanks for the warning.