Rosewill RCNC-11065 1000ft. /Network Cable Cat6 $79.99 shipped
Last edited by oFlamingo; 10-04-2012 at 10:08 AM..
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| 10-04-2012, 05:55 AM | |
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yep, good deal for solid copper
Last edited by ReverseHandedJO; 10-04-2012 at 06:01 AM.. whats trending right now >>> Slickdeals Live View Feed TWC charging $3.95 to lease their cable modem - buy your own modem discussion if someone steals food from your lunch in the refrigerator at work, just make some yummy tempting cookies with laxatives in them. then just wait to see who gets the runs! that person wont ever steal anything from your lunch ever again!!! O.O |
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if you are going to wire your own home, consider running 2 lines to each jack for future proofing. the second line could be for another gigabit Ethernet or for telephone lines. 1 Ethernet cable can carry 2 10/100 speed Ethernet (4 wires [2 pair] per each 10/100 Ethernet), but one one gigabit (1000) Ethernet (8 wires [4 pairs]). where would you locate your router and modem? i have seen where people have had their modem in the livingroom for the tv box (U-verse), but their router was in a hall, bedroom, pantry, storage closet. you dont want your electronic gear in the HVAC closet due to possible motor interference. if you cant have your modem right next to the router, you can back feed the Ethernet from the modem location to the router loction, instead of the Ethernet feeding from the router location to the palce of the modem. Last edited by ReverseHandedJO; 10-04-2012 at 06:39 AM.. |
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Does the cable in this post have the center plastic core like the one shown here on Monorprice does: http://www.monoprice.com/products...1&format=2
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i have never heard of an Ethernet cable getting hot or burning from being used for lower voltage applications such as Ethernet, POE, telephone, etc.
fyi for those that dont know what the center plastic core is for, it is to separate the 2 groups of 4 wire (pairs) for separate 10/100 Ethernet signals. Last edited by ReverseHandedJO; 10-04-2012 at 06:46 AM.. |
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I'll try anything once, and most things twice.
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Some will say that you need shielded wire, but in 99% of cases, you don't, as long as you don't run it along with high current power wires. If you are remodeling a part of your house, the easiest is to install a 1" PVC onduit in the walls going from the basement to the attic (if you have a multi-story home). This way, when you are ready to wire, you can run cables form the basement into the rooms on the first floor, and through the conduit into the attic to run into the rooms on the top floor. Having a conduit makes it easier, but you can do it without, it is just a little more hassle. Most homes with forced air heating and cooling have return ducts that go the whole height of the house. You can drill into it from the basement and attic, pull wires through, and close the holes with some caulking or electrician's putty. If you don't have forced air HVAC, then locate your sewer stack, it usually goes form the basmeent through the house, into the attic and through the roof. The hole for the pipe is usually bigger than the pipe and you can pull cables along the stack. Fishtape from a home improvement store is a must for this kind of work if you like to keep your sanity in check. I have tried strings, ropes, ect, fishtape works the best for me. If you have more than a 2 story home, then you can probably afford to hire someone to do it for you, ha ha ha. Having fully wired 2 homes, so far, I can tell you that 1000 ft. goes a long way. I still have about half a spool left, and I ran ehternet, and phone using Cat5e wire into every room in the house. Some rooms have more than 1 drop, since we also send HDTV signal over Cat5e form the HTPC to Media Center extenders. As "future proof" (which is not) I also ran coax while I was at it. This way next owner, or tenants can get cable in every room without the cable company stapling the coax wire to the mouldings, or running it outside the house GHETTO style. Each drop is installed using a low voltage remodel box (no back on it), and 3 hole keystone wall plate with ethernet, telephone, and coax jacks. It makes for a much much neater installation than surface mount boxes that some installers use. I bought a 100 pack of modular connectors on ebay for like $4 shipped from China, and got a crimper from Meritline. I am actually surprized by the quality of crimp tool form Meritline. It is much better quality than the cheap tool at Home Depot, and on par with the $150 crimper at Home Depot, but it was under $10 shipped. The "B" pin out is generally accepted as normal pin out for wiring Cat5, Cat5e and Cat6. But, it is not a requirement, as long as you stick with the same pin out through out the house, you will be fine. Last edited by blueiedgod; 10-04-2012 at 07:34 AM.. |
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RJ45 CAT-5 E (8P8C) Crimp Connector solid, (100 Pcs Per Bag) [amazon.com] - $3.32
Pretty good price for RJ45 connector ends. Remember, you need two ends for every cable - so 50 cables. If you want the boots, you can find those here [amazon.com]. Again, you'll need 2 sets of these if you want to do 50 cables. Throw in a crimper [amazon.com] and a cable tester [amazon.com](if you want to make long leads) and you're up and running for about $20 more. Hope that helps y'all. Last edited by Mechfire; 10-04-2012 at 07:50 AM.. |
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