Rosewill RCNC-11065 1000ft. /Network Cable Cat6 $79.99 shipped

I wish it stated if it was plenum rated or not. I'm betting that it is not.

I wish it stated if it was plenum rated or not. I'm betting that it is not.

RJ45 CAT-5 E (8P8C) Crimp Connector solid, (100 Pcs Per Bag) [amazon.com] - $3.32

Pretty good price for RJ45 connector ends. Remember, you need two ends for every cable - so 50 cables. If you want the boots, you can find those here [amazon.com]. Again, you'll need 2 sets of these if you want to do 50 cables.

Throw in a crimper [amazon.com] and a cable tester [amazon.com](if you want to make long leads) and you're up and running for about $20 more.

Hope that helps y'all.

Might want to add that folks will need to cut, crimp, and provide their own connectors, in case they jump on the deal not knowing how.

Thanks for the links. Few things I would like to point out.

You will only need to terminate both ends if you plug them directly into your equipment. If you are installing wall plates, or surface mounted boxes with RJ45 receptacles, then you don't need to terminate that end of the wire, as the receptacles have a punch through connectors.

If you are connecting the other end of the wire to a patch panel, then you don't need to terminate that end either, since most patch panels have punch through connectors. There are some exceptions, but most patch panels use standard keystone jacks with punch through connectors.

If you are connecting the other end directly to your switch or router, then, yes, you will need to terminate it with plugs.

Also, the plugs linked are better for stranded wire. It will work with this wire, but you may pull the wire out of the connectors if you tug too hard on it. Ideally, you need a connector that is specifically made for solid cable.

i agree a 1000' spool of Ethernet will last you a LONG time, years!

lol I went through 2000' of CAT5e cable in the span of about 2-3 months. The last thousand footer is still in my trunk though. Been there for over a year now.

Thanks for all the good info you have provided. I have worked with stranded cables a few years back, but just bought our first single family home about a year ago and have been wanting to hardwire it since we moved in. I have two HTPCs on the second level of a split level home and I have not been able to get consistently good throughput using wireless N at 2.4GHz or 5Ghz. It works most of the time, but is not perfect.

The home already has coax cable in each room (except for one) so I am hoping I can follow the same paths and just switch out the wall plates to accomodate the additional wiring.

Also, thanks to the other poster who mentioned running two lines to each room. I did some quick google research and that seems to be a pretty good idea.

Yes, you can wire the whole house with this cable. You want to use solid conductors for risers, and use stranded conductors for patch cables.

Some will say that you need shielded wire, but in 99% of cases, you don't, as long as you don't run it along with high current power wires.

If you are remodeling a part of your house, the easiest is to install a 1" PVC onduit in the walls going from the basement to the attic (if you have a multi-story home). This way, when you are ready to wire, you can run cables form the basement into the rooms on the first floor, and through the conduit into the attic to run into the rooms on the top floor.

Having a conduit makes it easier, but you can do it without, it is just a little more hassle. Most homes with forced air heating and cooling have return ducts that go the whole height of the house. You can drill into it from the basement and attic, pull wires through, and close the holes with some caulking or electrician's putty.

If you don't have forced air HVAC, then locate your sewer stack, it usually goes form the basmeent through the house, into the attic and through the roof. The hole for the pipe is usually bigger than the pipe and you can pull cables along the stack.

Fishtape from a home improvement store is a must for this kind of work if you like to keep your sanity in check. I have tried strings, ropes, ect, fishtape works the best for me.

If you have more than a 2 story home, then you can probably afford to hire someone to do it for you, ha ha ha.

Having fully wired 2 homes, so far, I can tell you that 1000 ft. goes a long way. I still have about half a spool left, and I ran ehternet, and phone using Cat5e wire into every room in the house. Some rooms have more than 1 drop, since we also send HDTV signal over Cat5e form the HTPC to Media Center extenders.

As "future proof" (which is not) I also ran coax while I was at it. This way next owner, or tenants can get cable in every room without the cable company stapling the coax wire to the mouldings, or running it outside the house GHETTO style.

Each drop is installed using a low voltage remodel box (no back on it), and 3 hole keystone wall plate with ethernet, telephone, and coax jacks. It makes for a much much neater installation than surface mount boxes that some installers use.

I bought a 100 pack of modular connectors on ebay for like $4 shipped from China, and got a crimper from Meritline. I am actually surprized by the quality of crimp tool form Meritline. It is much better quality than the cheap tool at Home Depot, and on par with the $150 crimper at Home Depot, but it was under $10 shipped.

The "B" pin out is generally accepted as normal pin out for wiring Cat5, Cat5e and Cat6. But, it is not a requirement, as long as you stick with the same pin out through out the house, you will be fine.



No, this is low voltage wire, you can run eithernet or phone using this wire, but don't use it for lighting, even for low voltage, or to carry any meaningful current. The wires are 26 gauge, which is smaller than your typical speaker wire.

Yes, you can wire the whole house with this cable. You want to use solid conductors for risers, and use stranded conductors for patch cables.

Some will say that you need shielded wire, but in 99% of cases, you don't, as long as you don't run it along with high current power wires.

If you are remodeling a part of your house, the easiest is to install a 1" PVC onduit in the walls going from the basement to the attic (if you have a multi-story home). This way, when you are ready to wire, you can run cables form the basement into the rooms on the first floor, and through the conduit into the attic to run into the rooms on the top floor.

Having a conduit makes it easier, but you can do it without, it is just a little more hassle. Most homes with forced air heating and cooling have return ducts that go the whole height of the house. You can drill into it from the basement and attic, pull wires through, and close the holes with some caulking or electrician's putty.

If you don't have forced air HVAC, then locate your sewer stack, it usually goes form the basmeent through the house, into the attic and through the roof. The hole for the pipe is usually bigger than the pipe and you can pull cables along the stack.

Fishtape from a home improvement store is a must for this kind of work if you like to keep your sanity in check. I have tried strings, ropes, ect, fishtape works the best for me.

If you have more than a 2 story home, then you can probably afford to hire someone to do it for you, ha ha ha.

Having fully wired 2 homes, so far, I can tell you that 1000 ft. goes a long way. I still have about half a spool left, and I ran ehternet, and phone using Cat5e wire into every room in the house. Some rooms have more than 1 drop, since we also send HDTV signal over Cat5e form the HTPC to Media Center extenders.

As "future proof" (which is not) I also ran coax while I was at it. This way next owner, or tenants can get cable in every room without the cable company stapling the coax wire to the mouldings, or running it outside the house GHETTO style.

Each drop is installed using a low voltage remodel box (no back on it), and 3 hole keystone wall plate with ethernet, telephone, and coax jacks. It makes for a much much neater installation than surface mount boxes that some installers use.

I bought a 100 pack of modular connectors on ebay for like $4 shipped from China, and got a crimper from Meritline. I am actually surprized by the quality of crimp tool form Meritline. It is much better quality than the cheap tool at Home Depot, and on par with the $150 crimper at Home Depot, but it was under $10 shipped.

The "B" pin out is generally accepted as normal pin out for wiring Cat5, Cat5e and Cat6. But, it is not a requirement, as long as you stick with the same pin out through out the house, you will be fine.



No, this is low voltage wire, you can run eithernet or phone using this wire, but don't use it for lighting, even for low voltage, or to carry any meaningful current. The wires are 26 gauge, which is smaller than your typical speaker wire.

I believe running a pipe straight up from the basement to the attic is a building code violation. It compromises any fire breaks between floors and helps any fire that may start in the basement to potentially spread quickly throughout the whole house.

+1 on the pvc

I had bought some modular connectors from China and mine don't work well. I got 800 of them for like $10, and the thing is, they don't stay connected. The ridge on the plastic bit doesn't work well, so they always fall out of the socket ):

Any deals on stranded cable?