ALL SOLID WOOD! Washburn WC750SW Classical Acoustic Guitar $238 Shipped

Shoot. Why do the solid wood ones always go on sale. I want one made from the bones of demons, and glued together with the souls of the damned.

Quote from robj144 : Looks interesting ...this one does not have solid back and sides, correct?

Ask him. I am fairly certain he never carries laminates. I have had extensive emails back and forth from him about the differences in sound and quality of laminates versus solid wood. You'll find solid wood are much louder, along with other attributes. Rubin buys the near perfect seconds of quality luthiers.

Once you start communicating with him about what you exactly want, he will keep you informed when he gets something you want. I bought a solid Brazilian rosewood sides and back with a spruce top. When I received it I was ecstatic. I bought two more after that.

Quote from doinmybest : Ask him. I am fairly certain he never carries laminates. I have had extensive emails back and forth from him about the differences in sound and quality of laminates versus solid wood. You'll find solid wood are much louder, along with other attributes. Rubin buys the near perfect seconds of quality luthiers. Once you start communicating with him about what you exactly want, he will keep you informed when he gets something you want. I bought a solid Brazilian rosewood sides and back with a spruce top. When I received it I was ecstatic. I bought two more after that.

Thanks. I have over a dozen acoustics... some laminate and some solid woods. I know the differences quite well, although some laminates (Seagull) sound very good.

You got a solid Brazilian guitar for around $300, or was that more money?

I guess I should try one of this. sounds a very good deal. Repped.

I really should find a way to block The_Linux_Crew's thread.. this will be the 4th guitar I'll be buying because of him.

Hey WMS guy, you should really pay him commission for all the sales he has made for you over the last couple of years.

Quote from doinmybest : Ask him. I am fairly certain he never carries laminates. I have had extensive emails back and forth from him about the differences in sound and quality of laminates versus solid wood. You'll find solid wood are much louder, along with other attributes. Rubin buys the near perfect seconds of quality luthiers. Once you start communicating with him about what you exactly want, he will keep you informed when he gets something you want. I bought a solid Brazilian rosewood sides and back with a spruce top. When I received it I was ecstatic. I bought two more after that.

I emailed him....it's laminate like I thought.

Quote from zar : I really should find a way to block The_Linux_Crew's thread.. this will be the 4th guitar I'll be buying because of him. Hey WMS guy, you should really pay him commission for all the sales he has made for you over the last couple of years.

I wish Amazon would pay me a commission since I post a TON of deals from there.

Quote from The_Linux_Crew : Absolutely! But I still maintain that it is 90% player and 10% guitar. And the higher you go in price the less the return on your investment. Take a guitar that is 10X more expensive than another guitar. - The difference between a $10 and a $100 guitar will be night and day (100% guitar) - The difference between a $100 and a $1,000 guitar will be very noticeable. (50% guitar and 50% player) - The difference between a $1,000 and a $10,000 guitar will be slight to moderate. (10% guitar and 90% player) - The difference between a $10,000 and a $100,000 guitar will be virtually non existent. (100% player)

An arbitrary $-amount means very little. Guitars from makers like Crafter, Washburn, Gibson, Fender, etc have solid top acoustics in the $150-$200 that if you close your eyes, no one could tell if it was a $150 guitar or a $1,000 guitar. There's plenty of blind guitars tests on Youtube where cheap guitars win out over expensive guitars, in sound. playability and intonation. I have a Takimine A10, a great playing and sounding solid cedar top guitar I paid $800 for new about 10 years ago, I love it, but the Washburn D11 (I think that's the model off the top of my head) solid cedar top I bought a couple months ago sounds, plays, looks and is built every bit as good the A10 and it was $150 shipped. The $350 Washburn WD18 I used to own (and wish I never sold) was on par with the guitar it cloned, the $1,200 Martin D15 which my brother still owns. There was nothing about the Martin that made it a better guitar, it sounded and played great, but so did the Washburn, neither sounded "better". And talk about value, I've never picked up a guitar I liked more than my $300 Seagull Entourage (made in Canada).

Quote from ohman : An arbitrary $-amount means very little.

Yes, it is an oversimplified model. However, if you want to take a stab at it, you can find the formulae here:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diminishing_returns

Of course that example is for fertilizer, so you will need to develop a new equation for guitars.

Ordered, thanks.

How do I choose a case?

Quote from shopper1973 : How do I choose a case?

I'm pleased with my Silver Creek Classical Guitar Case. The best price appears to be at Musicians Friend http://www.musiciansfriend.com/ac...uitar-case using code 'SCARY13' for 13% off. Compare the case inside dimensions with your guitar to make sure it will fit.
* Lower bout width: 14-3/4"
* Upper bout width: 11-1/4"
* Body length: 21"
* Overall length: 40-1/4"
* Depth: 4-3/4"

Thanks for the detailed response! That case looks nice (especially with the coupon code), but I already ordered a different one last night:

MBT Classical ABS Guitar Case on www.wayfair.com for $71.99 (links are not working for some reason??)

Would you recommend I cancel the order and purchase the one you mentioned instead? I am new to guitars and musical instruments in general so any advice is appreciated!

Quote from shopper1973 : Thanks for the detailed response! That case looks nice (especially with the coupon code), but I already ordered a different one last night: MBT Classical ABS Guitar Case on www.wayfair.com for $71.99 (links are not working for some reason??) Would you recommend I cancel the order and purchase the one you mentioned instead? I am new to guitars and musical instruments in general so any advice is appreciated!

The case you ordered might work out great for you.

• I don't know how good the MBT materials and fittings are, but a few reviews of a different MBT ABS case looked pretty good, so it's probably fine.
• The ABS exterior of the case you ordered might be more durable than the tolex on the SC.
• I can't find a lower price for your case, but Wayfair is rated poorly at reseller ratings. Hopefully, you'll have no issues with them.
• The MBT has more width at the upper and lower bouts, and more depth. If your guitar is the same size as my La Patrie, you wouldn't need more room, but I couldn't find your guitar dimensions to check.

* Lower bout width: 14.75"(SC) 15.75"(MBT)
* Upper bout width: 11.25"(SC) 11.80"(MBT)
* Depth: 4.75"(SC) 5.35"(MBT)

I hope you really enjoy your guitar and whatever case you end up with.

Quote from robj144 : It's not that simple at all. The nut needs to be reversed and the saddle needs to be reversed, meaning the bridge needs to be re-routed, or the bridge needs to be replaced entirely.

Quote from jstruble : Regarding making this a left handed guitar.... Everything you said is 100% true of most acoustic steel string guitars, however, classicals usually do not have a compensated saddle like most steel sting acoustics, thus the bridge would not need to be re-cut or filled, or have anything done to it except maybe height adjustment if needed. The bridge is uniformly perpendicular to the strings. . . . I looked at the picture to make sure it wasnt compensated. But you are right. some are... But most are not. Unless I missed something in the picture, I am pretty sure this would be fairly easy to make into lefty. No bridge to flip. . .

The saddle is angled in this better picture http://www.ebay.com/itm/Washburn-...1028659277. A left-handed player could learn to play like a righty or play upside down like Albert King, but to play conventionally picking with the dominant hand would fill the slot for the saddle and cut a new slot.