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I bought this last time it was on slickdeals probably over a year ago. I have a 2005 Trailblazer and use it to change the oil. It works fine and I'm completely comfortable using it.
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| 10-12-2012, 08:25 AM | |
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The wheels falling off are an easy fix - just tighten the nuts holding the wheels on (they can get loose every so often). My friend and I have used this jack for 2 years without any problems so far. The jack does take many pumps to get to the max height. If you get one that doesn't have any leaking problems, then this is a fine cheap jack. |
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I bought this kit almost 10 years ago on a similar deal. It's rusty as F and i've never taken care of it, but it still gets the job done. I only use it a few times a year for changing brakes and oil and that kind of stuff. It's not for a serious mechanic. It's for people who want to dabble with a little car maintenance and want to do it with something better and safer than the jack in the trunk.
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After having a couple of these cheap narrow jacks fail on me I finally bought this and have used it for a few years now with no problems. http://www.harborfreight.com/floo...68049.html You can tell the rebranded crapo jacks because all of them are super narrow. How is that narrow jack supposed to hold a load stable without tipping to the side and dropping everything? It can't. Even with tires chocked this thing can tip easily and shift the car sideways as it drops the car onto the jack stands, real fun if you're in a narrow garage when it happens. Not to mention it can't jack anywhere near the weight it's rated for (especially with that short handle), it leaks, it gets air in it and has to be bled all the time, and eventually won't pump up to it's original pitiful height at all anymore. The jack I've linked is the appropriate width for a floor jack, uses much heavier duty components, and actually lifts the weight that it's rated for. HF prices it all over the place depending on their mood, so just wait for a good price or an emailed Super Coupon if you're subscribed to receive those. I'm an outdoor adventurer, science geek, classical guitarist, programmer, photographer, audiophile, and car nut, so I try to help the SD community by posting useful information in those areas.
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I've had this set for several years. Works great for our small-mid sized cars, never tried it on anything else.
ALWAYS put your car on jack stands before going under it. You guys talking about going under your car with just a jack are insane, people get seriously injured/killed doing things like that. |
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- Unless you are somehow lifting the entire vehicle off the ground at once, you don't need a 8600lb rated jack. - An H2 has a GVWR of 8600, it actually only weighs ~ 6600lbs. - It's good that you don't trust the factory jack, you should NEVER trust any jack. Jacks are only for raising the car high enough to put jack stands under there and doing a tire change in an emergency where no part of your body is going under the car. Jack stands or ramps are the bare minimum for doing anything other than that emergency tire change. I would much rather use a cheap crappy old rusty wobbly jack and a set of jack stands over a top of line super rated jack and no jacks stands any day. Last edited by nolife; 10-12-2012 at 09:34 AM.. We can all thank Edward Louis Bernays for our desire to spend on various useless stuff we don't need!
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No matter how high quality the jack, you're trusting your life to a 50 cent O-Ring. That fails, and the car falls on your head. Darwin award in the making. Always use jack stands. |
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I purchased a similar kit from a local auto parts store, ACdelco branded.
The jack broke after two lifts of a 1997 subaru legacy. One side. Also, the release is not a handle twist but a small slotted knob/screw. You can imagine the decent control that provides. The jack stands are standard without safety pins. Jack=junk, stands=fine Not worth my time and gas to return, did order up a HF jack that gets sweet reviews over at the garage forums. |
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