Harbor Freight Black Friday: 12' Pittsburgh Automotive 8 Gauge Jumper Cables With Inline Battery Tester $4.99
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| 10-12-2012, 03:17 PM | |
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Worth pointing out that these aluminum wire (tho copper coated, which is BS), which have 2 downsides:
1) they have a gauge size less current carrying capacity than copper....so they are effectively equivalent to 10 gauge copper, which is only good for 30-50 amps...not so much when you're cranking a cold engine with a dead battery. 2) aluminum is a lot less ductile (bending flexibility) than copper, so they are stiffer and tend to break if flexed a lot. *Good* jumper calbes are made with copper welding cables which are flexible and can pass the rush of current necessary to start a car with a stone dead battery. And you'll be able to pass them down to your kids. Mine are 50 years old and inherited from my father, ![]() You get what you pay for, and, I'd say, you aren't getting much here. Sorry. |
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Jumper cables are something you in NO WAY want to skimp out on. When you need a jump, you need your shit to work!!
![]() If you need them for a backup or something to keep in the garage, fine, but if these are for keep in your trunk emergency gear, don't even consider them. Get some nice copper units like these: http://www.amazon.com/Coleman-Cab...per+cables There is a good reason they are #1 in jumper cables. |
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Hrrm.... good points on the copper, but not sure I need the $40 ones.
What about these for $20: AAA 6 gauge 16' [amazon.com] |
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Just to chime in here on "cheap" cables...dont do it, they simply cant handle the amps that are required to start a car.
My sons car battery dies recently and a someone stopped to help. We tried jumping with his cheap/light cables and it would not turn over..no horn, nothing. After towing the car home, i used my quality/heavier cables and the car turned over and started immediately. I used to have a cheap set and threw them away. But good ones and you will have then the rest of your life |
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