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Last edited by henrybravo; 10-13-2012 at 08:36 PM.. |
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| 10-13-2012, 08:34 PM | |
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![]() As I've stated and proven, the difference in tire pressure is negligible after 15 miles. Even if the difference is 1PSI that isn't going to significantly impact your braking ability or your gas mileage. Enough with this "you must inflate your tires cold" rhetoric. Its tired and inaccurate. Great rebate Companies:
Patriot Memory (4myrebate.com): 6 Weeks Tiger Direct (4myrebate): 3 weeks Rain-X (in house): 3 weeks BAD BAD MAIL IN REBATE COMPANIES: Xigmatek 26 weeks, 14 emails, 2 phone calls (finally received) NZXT 20 weeks, 4 phone calls, still no rebate |
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I personally prefer inflating my tires when they are cold, but I also agree a few minutes drive is not going to make a huge difference. |
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Your tires will not be overinflated when filled cold, PERIOD. Tires are filled cold because if your tire becomes under-inflated you have a serious safety hazard on your hands as the tire CAN NOT perform to its rated load capacity - thereby your Ford Exploder has a blow-out and your whole family dies. This is why tire and auto manufacturers state to fill at the coldest point in the "day" (24hr period), when you fill at the cold point and your tires increase in pressure due to rising internal temperature it is not referred to as "over-inflation", it is referred to as thermal expansion which cannot be avoided, and is considered safe until your tires are beyond their rated maximum internal temperature. It will at its most extreme point cause less contact with the road surface - though under-inflation also causes less contact with the road surface due to the loading characteristics of an under-inflated tire and consider significantly less-safe as the tire's performance characteristics are largely unpredictable. The fact is this: I can install head bolts on an engine out of sequence, not in steps, without a torque wrench, no angle meter, and reuse torque-to-yield bolts. Ya know what? The engine will run as good as any other - but I'm not a scientist, nor is anyone here. Which is why I follow the directions when it comes to something that has had many thousands of hours of research behind it. I'm not saying anyone else needs to follow the directions - but the point is for things to work OPTIMALLY, not MARGINALLY. This is SD, right? I would say the "best deal" is to do things the proper way, because any other way is the incorrect way (technically 100% true) which detracts from overall product value. Flushing value down the toilet. Last edited by PV9685; 10-13-2012 at 09:00 PM.. |
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And since you apparently don't ever drive anywhere other than your local mall in the summer, other people and families don't take road trips in the summer (the most popular time of the year to do so). Tens of thousands of people don't drive to the desert every year to see the Grand Canyon or Las Vegas or anything like that. Please stop spreading the misinformation.
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Last edited by henrybravo; 10-13-2012 at 09:05 PM.. Reason: added more info |
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Good god, the thread crappers are out in force today. Anyone happen to have any comments on the product?
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Right before I saw this on FP, my MIL stopped by becasue her Mazda was giving tire warning signal--but it does not give the actual tire pressures of each tire like my Chevy does.
Her stick gauge was way off. I tried the Accu-Gage I had kept in the truck that I haven't used in several years because my truck tells me what the psi's are. I checked the Accu-G against my truck tires and it was spot on with the truck's digital read. One of her tires was 4# off the others. Filled it with three, drove it around the block, and then they were all within a #. I'm not going to get into the hoopla of the cold/hot discussion of the last few pages, but in my experience here in TX in the summer the psi raises several pounds from the time I check at startup and the few miles I drive to the gas station to fill up. Its not so much just the heat outside. . .but big tires taking turns, the hot road, and braking. Cold is the only way to be 100% right unless you are going to take the time to calculate all the variables. . .but usually I only have 1 low tire at a time when I check cold and this is what I do. If the other tires are of proper inflation, and I drive before I can fill up the low tire, I simply fill it up until I get the same level as the "hot" psi of the other tires (or less than 1 # below the others to quasi account for the cold air going in.) Drive around the block and check again. They usually are the same at that point. The key, though, is trusting either your onboard or handheld gauge. And if this gauge is trustworthy and accurate. And, of course, if it is a good price at $3. . . Last edited by needgeech; 10-13-2012 at 11:07 PM.. Slickest: 1 Penny for new Epson Artisan 835 printer!!
iSlick: Ipad1 16gb new $240+tax 03/11 2nd slick deal: Mitsubishi 73738 DLP $981 Sears PM OTD! Thx HEB for making final cost $811 (mar '11) ![]() My next slickest deal: Sony KDL-60ex500 $959 + tax delivered! (feb '11) ![]() Also: Sony STRDN1010BN3 receiver and Sony wireless 3D BR player $265 shipped My first FP post: LG 55LE5400 $929 Fry's (03/04/11) |
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Yes,putting air in your tires is so challenging.
Last edited by karmatourer; 10-13-2012 at 11:24 PM.. Reason: Automerged Doublepost "I spent most of my money on fast cars,fast women and liquor.The rest I squandered".
George Best-famous UK footballer. |
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