buying a used car in northern Illinois - need tips

http://www.carcomplaints.com/

autotrader.com when you go to search select private party only..

main thing have the car checked out.carfax is a start but its not enough, take it somewhere that also has a paint meter to see if it was hit.

Quote from CHItownuser : I am thinking about buying a used car in northern Illinois and I need some tips. I want to buy from a private party because it should be cheaper. I checked in Craigslist, but 99% of all ads are from dealers. Chicagotribune has many private party ads through cars.com but their used car prices seem ridiculously high, sometimes higher than MSRP when new. I am a big Consumer Reports fan and have identified a few 2007, 2008 models form the latest issue of their Best Used Cars that I am considering. I like sedans or small SUVs. Please provide me with some helpful used car buying tips.

When buying a used car from a private party, get a Car Max report on the car before you buy it, but also have a mechanic that you trust check the car out (do not trust the seller's mechanic).

Thanks for the tips. This is my first car purchase on my own. Every car I ever owned was picked up by a senior family member who is no longer around.
How about cars that are under lease or cars that were bought using a bank loan? Should I stay away from those cars or is it easy to take over the lease or take over the bank loan payment?
What is a black book (not blue book) value? Is it the price I can purchase from a private seller? Where can I find the black book value?

Quote from CHItownuser : Thanks for the tips. This is my first car purchase on my own. Every car I ever owned was picked up by a senior family member who is no longer around. How about cars that are under lease or cars that were bought using a bank loan? Should I stay away from those cars or is it easy to take over the lease or take over the bank loan payment? What is a black book (not blue book) value? Is it the price I can purchase from a private seller? Where can I find the black book value?

I highly suggest you take a savvy car-buying friend with you, If you don't the odds of you getting cheated in some way are almost exponentially high. Yes, that includes buying from a dealer. Even worse if you are female. They tend to look at females as a shark looks at a seal for lunch. That doesn't mean there aren't some good females that can handle it, but I've seen it time and again where females get cheated at a far higher percentage then a male.

Buying any car is fraught with scams almost 100%, you need a second person who's been there before to keep a cool head, and look out for your best interests.

Quote from CHItownuser : Thanks for the tips. This is my first car purchase on my own. Every car I ever owned was picked up by a senior family member who is no longer around. How about cars that are under lease or cars that were bought using a bank loan? Should I stay away from those cars or is it easy to take over the lease or take over the bank loan payment? What is a black book (not blue book) value? Is it the price I can purchase from a private seller? Where can I find the black book value?

Only use the CarFax as a yellow or red light - not a green light. There can be issues that aren't reported by CarFax so just because the CarFax is clean doesn't mean that there aren't any issues with the car. However, if the CarFax does show issues that cause you to be cautious, use this as a yellow or even a red light if the issue is bad enough.

Also, make sure you have an independent ASE-certified diagnostic mechanic check the car out as a condition of purchase. This is the most important thing you can do to protect yourself when buying a used car. A diagnostic mechanic will check the entire car out - inside and out: structurally, mechanically, cosmetically, etc. and give you a report of what he found wrong with the vehicle. Generally speaking, this will cost you between $80 - $120. This is money very well spent. It can save you thousands of dollars down the road and ample heart ache if you didn't get a diagnostic mechanic to check it out.

The Black Book is used by dealers. Don't worry about the Black Book. Just use what you're finding private sellers are selling the car at as a general idea of what you should expect to pay for the car. You can also use Edmunds.com [edmunds.com] to get a general idea of what you can expect to pay for the car. However, regardless of what they're asking for the car, be willing and prepared to negotiate the price lower so you can get the very best deal on the car.

Concerning negotiation, your best tool in any negotiation is your willingness to walk away.

First, find several that you like and very casually let each seller know you're looking at two or three others (don't call attention to this, it lets the seller know you're posturing them and setting them up in some way and, therefore, puts them on the defensive which is what you don't want).

Then, check the car out. Walk around the car and sit in the car and physically touch every single thing you see wrong with the car. This gets their brain in the "she sees everything wrong with this car and is showing me why what I'm asking for this car is too much" mindset. This puts them in a responsive mindset. Usually, every time you touch something the seller will start to tell you how that happened - trying to explain why that is like it is.

Finally, ask them if their price is the lowest they'd be willing to take. Ask it in a calm voice, not an "I'm strong, I'm big and bad, I'm in control, I'm going to win this negotiation" demeanor. That's silly. People are smart. They sense that crap and they shut down. They feel backed into a corner and they get defensive. You don't want this. You want them to feel in control the whole time. You want them to feel like they have the upper hand the entire time. However, very early on, you've already let them know you have other, very viable options. They'll remember this and keep this in the back of their mind the entire time. This lets them know you're willing to walk away. That way, when you get to the (calm voice) "Is that the lowest you'd be willing to take?" part, they are thinking "She has options. However, if I lower the price, I can sell this car today." Also, immediately after you ask that question, shut your mouth. I don't care if they don't say anything for 15 seconds (which seems like an eternity), the next person that talks loses. We don't like silence - it's uncomfortable. This too places them in a responsive mindset. So, when you ask that question and then immediately shut your mouth you will, subconsciously, force the seller to talk. They won't be able to help it. This subtly and unknowingly causes so many sellers to, even if they went into this negotiation having sworn that they would not budge on their price, to lower their price.

So, to recap:

1. Nonchalantly let them know you have options (which lets them know you're willing to walk away).
2. Point out every single thing wrong with the car inside and out.
3. Ask them if that's the lowest they'd be willing to take and then shut your mouth (because the next person that talks loses).

The strong minded overcome the weak minded.

MikeBear and Brian1: Thanks for your tips!

Ill sell you my 08 altima. Where in north IL are you? There are some decent dealers in the area btw, if you are near the North Shore, Fields is one decent place. I would not totally exclude dealers, especially if you are picky, it will be challenging to find a private owner with exactly what you want. And even then private owners you have zero recourse if something goes wrong. Not that a dealership would be obligated, but if something did fail soon after they are usually willing to at least split the cost or offer discount on repairs if they are of any reputable value.