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Leviton SmartLockPro 15 Amp Duplex GFCI Outlet (3-Pack) EXPIRED

tukwok 3,248 November 8, 2012 at 12:24 PM in Home & Home Improvement (2) More Home Depot Deals
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$18.50

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Promoted 11-08-2012 at 01:59 PM View Original Post
Home Depot has Leviton SmartLockPro 15 Amp Duplex GFCI Outlet (3-Pack) for $18.50 + free shipping. Thanks tucwok

Original Post

Edited November 8, 2012 at 12:26 PM by tukwok
Bring your home or rental(s) up to code or replace any that became damaged or defective.

Leviton SmartLockPro 15 Amp Duplex GFCI Outlet, White (3-Pack)

$18.00 /EA-Each limit 10 per order
WAS $28.35
Online Special Valid : 11/08/2012 - 11/08/2012
Free Shipping
[homedepot.com]

Help protect your family from electrical shock by installing SmartlockPro GFCIs. The National Electrical Code requires GFCIs in bathrooms, kitchens, basements, garages, workshops, and laundry rooms. GFCIs can be damaged over time; they must be tested monthly to ensure they are providing proper protection.


Specially designed circuits offer superior surge protection
Cannot be reset if miswired (line/load reversal only) or if GFCI protection is compromised
Backwire feature for easy installation
Installs in place of standard outlet
Backwire feature for easy installation
Cannot be reset if miswired with a line/load reversal or if GFCI protection is compromised
CSA and UL listed
MFG Brand Name : Leviton
MFG Model # : M22-07599-03W
MFG Part # : M22-07599-03W

105 Comments

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#76
Quote from Mike C View Post :
If you are talking about buying using only 20A GFI's, you should only say that if the circuit has a 20A breaker. If 15A breaker (pretty rare for rooms where GFIs are needed, although I have seen it for bathroom circuits for some stupid reason), then use 15A GFIs.
My bathrooms and kitchen are wired with 14/2 so therefore are on a 15A breaker with 15A GFCI outlets at the start of each chain. 12/2 is some spendy stuff, I'd be surprised to see it used throughout an entire home.
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#77
Quote from ebnub View Post :
My bathrooms and kitchen are wired with 14/2 so therefore are on a 15A breaker with 15A GFCI outlets at the start of each chain. 12/2 is some spendy stuff, I'd be surprised to see it used throughout an entire home.
Hmm, then I guess I shouldn't be complaining as much as I was, everywhere I have checked so far is at least 12/2, kitchen, garage, bathrooms, etc. (except W/D 220 of course, along with hot tub, swimming pool pumps etc which are even lower). Maybe the contracter has a crapload of sppols of it from an SD, or maybe the same goofballs that overloaded almost all of my breakers didn't know any better Smilie.
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#78
Quote from Mike C View Post :
Hmm, then I guess I shouldn't be complaining as much as I was, everywhere I have checked so far is at least 12/2, kitchen, garage, bathrooms, etc. (except W/D 220 of course, along with hot tub, swimming pool pumps etc which are even lower). Maybe the contracter has a crapload of sppols of it from an SD, or maybe the same goofballs that overloaded almost all of my breakers didn't know any better Smilie.
12/2 is required in all of those rooms, so it's not surprise that it's there.

check the bedrooms and living rooms.
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#79
my house still have the original circuits. House built in 1958. Have no intentions of updating any of these. First time i ever heard of these.
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#80
Quote from Rack View Post :
12/2 is required in all of those rooms, so it's not surprise that it's there.

check the bedrooms and living rooms.
You just made me realize I should probably read the latest code before I go to town on my more or less complete rewiring... need to run a bunch of cat6 and GOOD COAX(for speaker/HDMI/etc wiring through the walls) anyway, so will be killing 3 birds with one stone. I don't have any GFIs in the rooms you mentioned, but with some of the A/V gear I will be running (especially the home theater rooms), I may even have to go down below 12/2 Big Grin. Thanks for the tip and bringing that up, because I forgot ALL about budgeting and planning for the power demands in the "entertainment" rooms.

Repped!

Quote from BosuxRedsux View Post :
my house still have the original circuits. House built in 1958. Have no intentions of updating any of these. First time i ever heard of these.
I don't know/remember when the switch happened.... does your main distribution panel have glass fuses or breakers? Just curious.
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#81
Is GFCI outlets a DIY thing?

I don't mean the outlet itself, but the circuity behind it, in the wall.

Doesn't the circuitry need to be special somehow?
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#82
Quote from karazi View Post :
Whoever spelled it LeviTRON on the front page ought to correct it.
Quote from Jughead View Post :
I mod-alerted this 10 minutes ago. I guess data integrity isn't important.
I got a chuckle from iconian thanking me as "tucwok" (keep it please). Which is a play on Tupac and my name. I think it's an unintentional typo as I don't believe I'm that much of a regular with the mods in the lounge or the rest of SD. Big Grin
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#83
ok getting charged an extra 50 cents per box. has anybody that gotten this able to resolve this?
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#84
Thanks OP
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#85
Unable to get free shipping
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Original Poster
#86
I forgot to mention to all those confused about the supposed extra $0.50 per purchase. It seemed to be a typo in the offer. They had the was price at $28.35 when it is $28.85 and with the $10.35 special buy saving we're still left with the $0.50 discrepancy. I didn't notice until I review the thread earlier and re-checked my invoice. UPDATE: I contacted home depot and they issued the difference back and some change from the sales tax saving. I'm glad many were able to benefit from the buy. woot

Quote from aragorn2000 View Post :
Unable to get free shipping
It's no longer 11/8. At least the deal is somewhat still live you just need to order $45 or more for their free shipping. Return decoy filler items in store. Wink

UPDATE: Completely dead now.
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#87
Quote from myklup View Post :
I can almost guarantee you that the code says that all kitchen outlets must be protected by GFCI, not each has to be it's own individual GFCI
The code actually says that there shall be 2 kitchen circuits protected by gfci.
It does not specify all outlets . Its allows many outlets not to be protected such as refrigerators, disposals, and even general use , but not counter height , outlets.
Those can be wired in 14-2 wire too.
Code is weird.
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#88
Deal is dead?
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#89
Most people who have bought these probably aren't sure what they've bought. Some background information to keep everybody safe:

http://www.diycontrols.com/images/15amp_20amp.JPG

If you have 15A receptacles in place, you should replace them with 15A GFCIs. Same for 20A. You *may* replace 15A receptacles with 20A receptacles only if your are sure that 12 awg wire is used all the way back to the panel, every device on that circuit is rated for 20A feedthrough, and you have a 20A breaker installed on that circuit. 99% of the people here are not sure of that, so don't do it. You could open a huge can of liability that you just don't want.

On the first page, several people say they work for electrical engineering firms and they always spec 20A. That's very ignorant of them to suggest. They most likely spec 20A because it is a requirement in commercial settings. They are not required in residential kitchens or bathrooms by any national code. Do you own or have you ever owned any kitchen appliance with a 20A plug? Didn't think so. Again, do not install 20A GFCIs where 15A receptacles used to be without all of the above assurances.

One person said that installing a GFCI where you have only old ungrounded 2-wire (hot/neutral, or two prong receptacle) provides the same protection as having a ground there. This is incorrect. Grounds protect humans and equipment; GFCIs protect only humans and defeat surge protectors.

Just finished rewiring my entire kitchen and more of the rest of the house because a previous owner did unsafe electrical work. If anybody has any safety or code questions, please let me know; I just went through all of this for the last year.
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#90
Quote from bbf View Post :
The 20Amp receptacle has a horizontal tab in it that the 15A ones don't. This is to prevent a device that requires a 20A circuit from being plugged into a 15A circuit. If you put a 20A receptacle on a 15A circuit, you bypass this protection and risk overloading your 15A circuit.
Thats why I said if you use a 20A receptacle you need 12 guage wire. DO not replace a 15A with a 20A on use the 15A wiring. I was speaking about new construction ONLY.
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