CyberPower CP850AVRLCD 9-Outlet 850VA/510W AVR Tower UPS ~ $70 w/ FS @ OfficeDepot.com

In for one through Chase Ultimate Rewards center. Thanks!

Passing on this - make note or sticky the fact that this won't work correctly with A-PFC power supplies, which are pretty common on all desktop PC's now.

OOS for me now

Quote from goldchocobo : CP850AVRLCD is SIMULATED sine wave which will work with older power supplies, but the newer power supplies, especially the highly efficient ones that have Active Power Factor Correction APFC, require true sine waves or they will not work properly with the UPS. I only have gold and platinum 80+ rated PSUs so I will pass on this. I hope this info saved at least a few people from buying a UPS that won't keep taking down their APFC-powered equipment whenever there is a mild disturbance in the utility grid.

It's bad for APFC but it won't kill it in the first surge. My PC P&C PSU has been on simulated sine-wave for about a year now. Prior to that, I had a Corsair 520W APFC that lived on simulated s/w for over 5 years. It's still kicking.

I have the Cyber Power 1350AVR model. It is part of the intelligent series. I'll post a screen shot of the control panel.
I have a 600 watt PSU, 23" LCD, external hard drive, telephone, and network switch plug in. It shows about 7 minutes of run time in case of a power outage.

I either read on line or maybe in the instructions, but you do not want to plug a laser printer into one of the outlets that supplies power in an outage. There are 2 types of outlets in the back of the unit. 1 type offers battery back up, the other type offers surge only protection. You want to plug a laser printer into a surge only outlet. I think it had something to do with the amount of wattage a laser printer draws.

Anyway, at this price, I think I will grab one for stereo, dvd, blu ray, etc.

Quote from loves2save : Thanks, OP! Timing on this post showing up this morning was perfect as my current APC backup just went bad last night. So I just got two of these CyberPower units; one to use right away, and one to stash in the closet for later use.

Hey heads up - DON'T stash your UPSes unless they're plugged in. Lead-acid batteries have high self discharge rates and in general are meant to be continuously kept charged. This happened with one of my UPSes when it was relatively new--I moved and for a variety of reasons didn't plug in my UPS for at least a few months. Came back, and the battery was dead to the point that the UPS wasn't willing to charge it. Luckily I do a lot of electronics work and had the tools and black magic to bring it back to life (okay, not really, just manually charged it under careful watch with a CC/CV power supply on low current, if you're curious--about 50% of the time it'll recover dead batteries to a somewhat usable state).

Now that I think about it, I remember doing exactly what you were doing a few years ago off a deal on SD--saw a new UPS (from geeks.com, I think?), already had one, but figured I'd stash it anyway. It worked when I got it. Pulled it out a year or two later and it was completely dead and refused to charge the battery. When I figured out how to rejuvenate lead-acids, it was too late.

So if you're going to stash UPSes, it's probably best that you leave them charging somewhere, or otherwise remember to bring them out and top them off (by plugging them into the wall for a day) every month.

Quote from JMUFly : Would this be okay to act between a generator and a laptop or a desktop?

UPSs don't like dirty generator power unless it's a clean sine wave. I cooked a Belkin UPS by running off my (cheaper) generator. It'll complain that the line power or voltage is not right and oscillate between standby and online modes.

I have a new generator that's supposed to have cleaner sine-wave power so I might give it a shot supplying the UPS when the next emergency comes.

Your best bet in power failure after the UPS runs down is to is to switch the plugs for monitors and laptop chargers over to the generator directly. The point of the UPS is to let you do a clean shut down so do that before the UPS drains and then switch the plugs to a generator and power stuff on slowly.

If you don't have anything heavy draining the power you can charge up your phones, laptop and tablets for a long time from the UPS and then go directly to the generator.

Quote from DaWurm : Ughh... wish this was a 10 outlet guy. Yes, sadly I do need 10 outlets... Good find otherwise. Anyone have any recommendations for 10 outlet models??

http://www.amazon.com/Cables-Unli...4048&sr=8- 2&keywords=power+splitter

Buy one or more.

Ugh, I need to power a 600 W PC, Synology server, external hard drive, monitor.....

Need more than 510 W, weak

Dead for me now:

Item 953855, CyberPower CP850AVRLCD Uninterruptible Power Supply 9, is not available for purchase at this time.

Quote from DaWurm : Ughh... wish this was a 10 outlet guy. Yes, sadly I do need 10 outlets... Good find otherwise. Anyone have any recommendations for 10 outlet models??

http://www.amazon.com/Cables-Unli...4048&sr=8- 2&keywords=power+splitter

http://www.amazon.com/Accell-D080...powersquid
Buy one or more.

Quote from netringer : UPSs don't like dirty generator power unless it's a clean sine wave. I cooked a Belkin UPS by running off my (cheaper) generator. It'll complain that the line power or voltage is not right and oscillate between standby and online modes.

Would putting something like this in front of it work?

http://www.amazon.com/OPTI-UPS-SS...pd_sim_e_1

Quote from gergev : Would putting something like this in front of it work? http://www.amazon.com/OPTI-UPS-SS...pd_sim_e_1

I kinda doubt it would work. For one thing that one is only rated at 500watts. The UPS will draw more than that.

The problem isn't so much that the inexpensive generator output is low voltage, it's a square wave vs. a perfect sine wave.

There are generators that have clean sine wave power output like the Honda inverter generators but they cost a lot more.

Quote from redsrule2500 : Ugh, I need to power a 600 W PC, Synology server, external hard drive, monitor..... Need more than 510 W, weak

Have you seen it actually pull 510W?

I have an 850W PS, among other things connected to my 750W UPS.
I used a kill-a-watt and found that everything on the UPS pulls ~250W with my computer idleing.
When I am playing a game and max out the graphics, it doesn't even break 450W.