LG AN-WL100 1080p Wireless Video Kit (Transmitter & Receiver) - $19

Quote from gubbar : didn't find consistent info anywhere. i think all the contents mentioned are in the box. we shall see. i presumed the two guys who posted their feedback would have been mighty mad if they didn't receive the entire kit. hes selling new LG AN-WL100 and LG's website has enough details to say what all is included. will update what i receive...

i contact seller, he told me is all kit

I got the box today. A lot of stuff included for $20. I used a laptop power supply rated at 20v/4amps and soldered it to the oem cable. When I booted up the dongle and transmitter, I was getting sound but no picture with hdmi. I then proceeded to use a pc monitor instead of my tv and bingo, picture came up. It seems my old sony lcd tv handles up to 1080i only but for some reason the picture is not coming up. If I connect a 1080i source directly to the tv, it works fine. I'll need to investigate further.

Here are a few tips when modding the power supply. Make sure to use the thick black and red wires instead of the thin ones. Also, use a multimeter to test which is positive and which is ground on the power supply before soldering.

Overall, it does work. The dongle seems to run pretty hot so I'm not sure if that is normal. I may need to add a fan to it.

Got both of mine today. Will try to make time to hook em up this weekend.

Does anyone know what the maximum range is?

Quote from franzcatch : Got both of mine today. Will try to make time to hook em up this weekend. Does anyone know what the maximum range is?

Sates 50ft, with a clear line of sight. Prob around 25-30 if there are obsructions.

Quote from snapcoyote : I got the box today. A lot of stuff included for $20. I used a laptop power supply rated at 20v/4amps and soldered it to the oem cable. When I booted up the dongle and transmitter, I was getting sound but no picture with hdmi. I then proceeded to use a pc monitor instead of my tv and bingo, picture came up. It seems my old sony lcd tv handles up to 1080i only but for some reason the picture is not coming up. If I connect a 1080i source directly to the tv, it works fine. I'll need to investigate further. Here are a few tips when modding the power supply. Make sure to use the thick black and red wires instead of the thin ones. Also, use a multimeter to test which is positive and which is ground on the power supply before soldering. Overall, it does work. The dongle seems to run pretty hot so I'm not sure if that is normal. I may need to add a fan to it.

I got it to work as well with a laptop charger. Mine is at 19.5V and 3.34A. Were you able to plug in 2nd HDMI device and select HDMI 2 the transmitter? I couldn't get HDMI 2 to work. Only HDMI 1 so far. Pressing HDMI2 on the transmitter doesn't seem to work.

Quote from hightop32 : please double check this with a meter.

Were you able to get HDMI ports other than HDMI 1 working after the hack? Or do you have an LGTV to use this with?

Quote from gtu2005 : Were you able to get HDMI ports other than HDMI 1 working after the hack? Or do you have an LGTV to use this with?

I was able to switch inputs fine just by touching the front panel of the box. No need to power down/up the box and rapidly tapping the front panel like the instructions suggested. Not sure why the serial mod is even necessary. Once the dongle and box are sync, you should either see a picture or the LG logo rotating box. Then just press the front panel and it will switch between inputs.

Also, I think the dongle only outputs 1080p. I can't get the dongle to output anything less than that regardless of the input on the box. Can anybody else confirm? If that is the case, then the wiki should be updated to let others know that it will only work with 1080p tv sets.

I got mine working tonight on a 720p with no issues but didn't try switching inputs..maybe tomorrow.

Quote from snapcoyote : Not sure why the serial mod is even necessary.

The serial 'mod' is for automation system control... ie - I can connect it to my Savant [savantav.com] system, of which I am a dealer, and switch inputs via my ipad without ever having to touch the box itself.

Quote from Thrak410 : The serial 'mod' is for automation system control... ie - I can connect it to my Savant [savantav.com] system, of which I am a dealer, and switch inputs via my ipad without ever having to touch the box itself.

I see. I was under the impression the serial mod was necessary b/c there was no other way to switch inputs besides powering up/down the box.

Quote from snapcoyote : I see. I was under the impression the serial mod was necessary b/c there was no other way to switch inputs besides powering up/down the box.

Where'd you get that? Once you have everything plugged in you should be able touch the front panel on the transmitter to change inputs.

Quote from snapcoyote : I see. I was under the impression the serial mod was necessary b/c there was no other way to switch inputs besides powering up/down the box.

I was under that impression too. Not sure why either. Makes sense to have a input switch button, lol.

I think it was because of the way the IR blaster works with Supported LG TV's.

So just confirming, there is no way of so trolling this with a regular remote control?

Quote from Thrak410 : Where'd you get that? Once you have everything plugged in you should be able touch the front panel on the transmitter to change inputs.

I misread the instructions wrong. The google plus instructions said to turbo tap hdmi1 on bootup. I thought you have to do this every time just to switch to a different input. My mistake.

Got mine today and hooked everything up. No problems sending the signal to a TV on the second floor and opposite side of the house. Is there some sort of LG TV connector specification where they got the 19-24 voltage range for the receiver portion to work from? I am positive that like any other electronic device, there is a voltage regulator inside stepping down the input voltage to either 5 or 12 volts, in which case, using 19 volts or more is overkill and all you're doing is causing it to produce more heat from having to step down a higher voltage. All that extra power has to go somewhere and it gets converted to heat instead which would explain why some people have said it runs hot. All the extra heat and voltage will also cause the electronics to fail a lot sooner. I used a old laptop power brick with 16 volts at 2.2 amps output and it still works fine. I also have some power bricks that output 12 volts and 14 volts that I'll try and experiment with to see if they work.


Edit: Just noticed the service manual was posted in the wiki. Not sure when it happened as it wasn't there when I ordered mine. Doing a quick look through the pages on the dongle, it might work on as little as 5 volts. I don't see any of the diagrams specifying anything over that for the components unless I missed something. IMO 19-24 volts input is way overkill for this thing. Even the transmitter power brick is rated at 12 volts and 2.5 amps and the transmitter uses a lot more power than the receiver.