LG AN-WL100 1080p Wireless Video Kit (Transmitter & Receiver) - $19

I'm using a USB ttl cable serial converter to the 1/8" into the box. The drivers indicate that the device is working properly, but when I connect to the box and send the file with a command to the device, nothing happens. The client indicates that it is connected and I can send files through the client, but I receive nothing back and nothing changes on the output. Any advice?

Quote from mZimm : I'm using a USB ttl cable serial converter to the 1/8" into the box. The drivers indicate that the device is working properly, but when I connect to the box and send the file with a command to the device, nothing happens. The client indicates that it is connected and I can send files through the client, but I receive nothing back and nothing changes on the output. Any advice?

Have you tried sending characters via the keyboard instead of sending a file? What transfer protocol are you using? I assume it would have to send pure ASCII and would also have to send a carriage return at the end of the line. I doubt it's anything to do with your USB-Serial converter as I just tried one last night and it worked fine.

I'm using Hyperterminal and sending commands via keyboard. I have to enable local echo in order to see the characters I'm typing but once into the debug menu, it echos the characters on its own and I found some commands wouldn't work when I have local echo enabled. BTW, I get no front panel indication that I've switched output ports, either via front panel buttons or via serial cable.

Quote from Papa45398 : Have you tried sending characters via the keyboard instead of sending a file? What transfer protocol are you using? I assume it would have to send pure ASCII and would also have to send a carriage return at the end of the line. I doubt it's anything to do with your USB-Serial converter as I just tried one last night and it worked fine. I'm using Hyperterminal and sending commands via keyboard. I have to enable local echo in order to see the characters I'm typing but once into the debug menu, it echos the characters on its own and I found some commands wouldn't work when I have local echo enabled. BTW, I get no front panel indication that I've switched output ports, either via front panel buttons or via serial cable.

I'm using Hyperterminal "Private Edition" since I am on Windows 7 and don't have it built in. I tried setting it up with local echo and just typing "xb 00 73" and I get nothing upon hitting return - send the command and no reply or input change. I'm using default serial connection settings (9600, 8-bit, no parity, 1 stop bit, no flow control) through "COM6", which my computer reads as "Prolific USB-to-Serial Comm Port". Maybe the cable is bad?

Is there any way to verify connection other than the HyperTerminal indicating "connected"? It seems that it will show "connected" even if I disconnect the 1/8" jack from the box.

Quote from mZimm : I'm using Hyperterminal "Private Edition" since I am on Windows 7 and don't have it built in. I tried setting it up with local echo and just typing "xb 00 73" and I get nothing upon hitting return - send the command and no reply or input change. I'm using default serial connection settings (9600, 8-bit, no parity, 1 stop bit, no flow control) through "COM6", which my computer reads as "Prolific USB-to-Serial Comm Port". Maybe the cable is bad? Is there any way to verify connection other than the HyperTerminal indicating "connected"? It seems that it will show "connected" even if I disconnect the 1/8" jack from the box.

You might try 115200 baud instead of 9600... I've read that it works for some when 9600 doesn't. You might also try running in XP mode (which worked for me when 7 wouldn't install the driver for my USB-Serial cable). Windows Virtual PC/XP mode is a free download if not in your version. I believe it will show you connected without being connected to the transmitter as the connection is to your Com port and it is communicating with it. You will definitely get a reply from the box if a valid command is received. You also might want to check your cable with an ohm meter to see if you have all the right connections.

Just completed my hack/solder project of this. Great instructions throughout this thread, thank you to all and thank you to the OP for the post! Seems to be working fine right now, got everything assembled and tested turning on and off a few times and it seems to be working strong.

Quote from mZimm : I'm using a USB ttl cable serial converter to the 1/8" into the box. The drivers indicate that the device is working properly, but when I connect to the box and send the file with a command to the device, nothing happens. The client indicates that it is connected and I can send files through the client, but I receive nothing back and nothing changes on the output. Any advice?

You should use a usb-rs232 cable and not usb-ttl cable for connecting to the service port at the back.

If you have a usb-ttl cable try connecting to the RX/TX lines in the Dongle cable and see if it works.

Finally got around to wanting to use this.

How do I connect it to the power supply with the hack? I cut the dongle and see the white and black wires. I cut the power supply I had laying around but it has an outer mesh wire and inner small wires. Are the inner positive and the outer mesh the negative, and how do I connect the two?

Quote from Flyingboat : Finally got around to wanting to use this. How do I connect it to the power supply with the hack? I cut the dongle and see the white and black wires. I cut the power supply I had laying around but it has an outer mesh wire and inner small wires. Are the inner positive and the outer mesh the negative, and how do I connect the two?

You want to use the larger Red and Black wires in the dongle cable, not White and Black. Which you connect to depends on your power supply. Black goes to negative, Red positive, so if the tip was positive as the majority of power supplies are then Red would connect to the center conductor, Black to the outer shielding. Use a volt meter to insure polarity. Soldering them and covering in heat shrink tubing works well, simply twisting the wires together and covering in tape will likely work, at least for a while. If you'd like a more professional looking solution that will switch the dongle on and off with the TV, consider something like I did here: http://slickdeals.net/forums/show...tcount=479

Does anyone have a comprehensive set of commands accessible through the RS232 interface?

Quote from mZimm : Does anyone have a comprehensive set of commands accessible through the RS232 interface?

good info here

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1314796...t_22539561

Quote from Papa45398 : Like most, I first tested my unit by splicing my dongle power cable to a laptop power supply. It worked but still had the homemade look even though done neatly and covered in heat shrink. I then found that if I turned the remote TV off I’d have a green tinted screen when turned back on. The only way to get rid of the green tint was to reset or power-cycle the dongle so I decided to make something to control the dongle power via the TV, and have something that looked more factory made. Here’s my solution:

Very nice solution, I did something similar with my breakout box, and it works perfectly. No drilling needed on the wifi receiver, and it has a finished look.

All it cost me was half of a cable I'd already cut to test the feed from the IR wire.

Better yet, this is simpler for the end user (an older gentleman) to use, since unlike the ebay IR AC plug, it turns on and off with the TV - and the remote doesn't need to be within 8 feet.

Thanks for posting it.

It was working great with a Panasonic LED 47" for a month but I had to move it to another place. It stopped working since then. Wireless indicator on the base blinking and never finds the dongle. Dongle was/is powered by an HP laptop power supply 19V 3A. Any idea how it can be fixed?

There is a small green surface mounted LED on the dongle's PCB board that you can check to verify if the dongle has power. It can be seen through the vents on top but you may have to change angles a bit to see it. If it is powered then it's likely out of range, i.e. too far away or too many walls, etc. Supposedly there is some shielding inside the transmitter (base) that some remove to increase range.

Quote from Papa45398 : There is a small green surface mounted LED on the dongle's PCB board that you can check to verify if the dongle has power. It can be seen through the vents on top but you may have to change angles a bit to see it. If it is powered then it's likely out of range, i.e. too far away or too many walls, etc. Supposedly there is some shielding inside the transmitter (base) that some remove to increase range.

Thank you for your answer,
I see that green LED inside the dongle is on, and the transmitter was just 15 feet away.
Today, I moved the transmitter very close to the receiver ( <5feet away) still not working and wireless led in blinking.
I am wondering if the device is broken.