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LG AN-WL100 1080p Wireless Video Kit (Transmitter & Receiver) - $19

Rhythmic 1,575 December 4, 2012 at 03:09 PM in Tech & Electronics (8)
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LG ANWL100 Wireless Digital Media Streamer Box wit Full HD 1080p Transmission

$19 @ All4Cellular (+ free ship) w/ Coupon Code "A4C5OFF"- http://www.all4cellular.com/product/lg-an-wl100-wireless-media-box.html

$23 @ Amazon (Prime eligible)- Linky: --Looks like Amazon ran out of them at this price, see merchant section for best possible price--

Description:
Set your TV free from connection clutter with LG's Wireless Media Kit. The kit sends an uncompressed, full HD 1080p signal to your TV from up to 50 feet away, even through walls and doors. Compatible with all 2010 LG HDTV models featuring NetCast.


Product Features
  • 1080p Wireless Transmitter
  • Wireless Receiver Included
  • 4 HDMI™ (3 back / 1 side)
  • 2 Component AV Input, PC Input, 3.5mm Audio Input
  • IR Blaster
These seem to be hackable / modable to work with non-LG sets:
https://plus.google.com/u/1/101948760925084043079/posts/btdqMZqCzEA

Note, you may find it slightly cheaper if you check the Amazon merchant list section,
http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-li...003I6718M/

514 Comments

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Joined Oct 2010
L2: Beginner
28 Reputation
#286
I found out why the front panel may or may not work for some people. When I powered down the box and started up again, my front panel stopped working and I could no longer switch inputs. I then found a posting in another forum that mentioned how to get it working again.

Quote :
I was just playing with the transmitter and media box and noticed that the front panel does indeed work. To get the front panel to work, turn off the media box with the front panel I/O button (red light). Put your finger on a source button with a valid source plugged in (i.e. HDMI 1) and continue to hold on to it. Push the I/O button while still holding the source button. Let the media box come up and wait until the source is displayed on the TV (still holding down the source button). ONce you see the source on the TV, you can release the source button. Now, the other source buttons should work... push to select other sources. As long as the media box is not turned off (even if wireless dongle is turned off), the front panel will remain functional. You'll have to repeat the process if the media box loses power or is powered off.
Here is the link to the exact posting for more information:
http://forums.techguy.org/do-your...out-2.html

Hope this helps for people who are trying to get the front panel to work Smilie
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Joined Jul 2008
L10: Grand Master
3,029 Reputation
#287
Quote from mZimm View Post :
When I opened the transmitter to take out the aforementioned metal shielding I noticed that there seem to be antenna connectors - if anyone is having problems with range, it might not be a bad idea to try to utilize those. There's also an internal USB port - anyone have any idea what it might be useful for?

Also opened the receiver and saw the large metal piece in there, but it seems more for heat dissipation than shielding in the case of the receiver. The transmitter's shield had some thermal tape as well, but it didn't seem like it was much of a benefit.
mentioned the antenna mod potential earlier in the thread. fwiw they are u.fl connectors for 5ghz antennas, 3 jacks for each antenna for what i assume are like some of the cisco 5GHZ stuff ive seen at work that utilizes 3 connections back to an AP.

(im thinking something like the CISCO AIR-ANT5140V-R)

internal USB port could be for a number of things, but probably for updating of the board's firmware.

what is more interesting to me is pulling out the transmitter part and finding out a way to interface with it directly for making a smaller, less power hungry transmitter with a single HDMI device.

aint hacking fun? ....and they said it wouldnt work! Smilie

Quote from snapcoyote View Post :
I found out why the front panel may or may not work for some people. When I powered down the box and started up again, my front panel stopped working and I could no longer switch inputs. I then found a posting in another forum that mentioned how to get it working again.



Here is the link to the exact posting for more information:
http://forums.techguy.org/do-your...out-2.html

Hope this helps for people who are trying to get the front panel to work Smilie
ive seen this info too. the procedure for doing it each time the thing is powered off is pretty painful, which is why i went with serial control Smilie
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Joined Jul 2010
Mostly Lurk
110 Reputation
#288
Just got mine today and used a 18V 0.8A plug in power supply I had laying around and it works like a champ. I'm feeding my DirecTV from my living room to my bedroom to a 32" Westinghouse TV.
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Joined Jul 2008
L10: Grand Master
3,029 Reputation
#289
im glad the real slickdealers are coming out of the woodwork hacking this up to make it work.

i considered posting this months ago when i first noticed them being blown out but figured the backlash of having to 'hack' the product would just net me thumbs down.

wave to all the nerds!

Smilie
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Joined Feb 2006
Recovering Postaholic
204 Reputation
#290
It baffles me that this dongle needs 18.5V to work. Many laptops require less.
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Joined Oct 2010
L2: Beginner
28 Reputation
#291
Quote from mZimm View Post :
It baffles me that this dongle needs 18.5V to work. Many laptops require less.
I got it to work with 12v / 3.25a, confirmed with multimeter. Others have got it to work with 12v / 1a so it's able to take less. My box and dongle are in the same room and only a few feet apart so I can't verify if more power is necessary if you need to stream farther.
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Joined Aug 2008
Insert brain here
167 Reputation
#292
Quote from hightop32 View Post :
im glad the real slickdealers are coming out of the woodwork hacking this up to make it work.

i considered posting this months ago when i first noticed them being blown out but figured the backlash of having to 'hack' the product would just net me thumbs down.

wave to all the nerds!

Smilie
Even though most SDers aren't hackers, I'd imagine that most hackers are SDers (being a generic term for anyone seeking deals). If you run into more cheap electronics that can be hacked to become more useful, I'd definitely be interested in checking them out.
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Joined Feb 2006
Recovering Postaholic
204 Reputation
#293
Quote from hightop32 View Post :
im glad the real slickdealers are coming out of the woodwork hacking this up to make it work.

i considered posting this months ago when i first noticed them being blown out but figured the backlash of having to 'hack' the product would just net me thumbs down.

wave to all the nerds!

Smilie
Quote from AZImmortal View Post :
Even though most SDers aren't hackers, I'd imagine that most hackers are SDers (being a generic term for anyone seeking deals). If you run into more cheap electronics that can be hacked to become more useful, I'd definitely be interested in checking them out.
I almost bought one of these a couple months ago when they were on dailysteals for ~$20, but at that point there wasn't any info on how to change inputs, which was a dealbreaker for me. Given that I have a HTPC connected to my TV with an IR receiver anyway, changing inputs using serial will work great for me.
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Joined Nov 2009
L6: Expert
220 Reputation
#294
KILL. I am so ready to smash something. I got it to work once, perfect sound and video, then when I unplugged the remote box to move it, it won't re-acquire the signal after I plugged it again again. I've gone through the exact same steps as before, yet it refuses to connect again. I've also gone through every possible permutation of power up step combinations for box boxes and it still won't connect. Unf-ing believable.
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Joined May 2006
L7: Teacher
221 Reputation
#295
Quote from hightop32 View Post :
mentioned the antenna mod potential earlier in the thread. fwiw they are u.fl connectors for 5ghz antennas, 3 jacks for each antenna for what i assume are like some of the cisco 5GHZ stuff ive seen at work that utilizes 3 connections back to an AP.

(im thinking something like the CISCO AIR-ANT5140V-R)

internal USB port could be for a number of things, but probably for updating of the board's firmware.

what is more interesting to me is pulling out the transmitter part and finding out a way to interface with it directly for making a smaller, less power hungry transmitter with a single HDMI device.

aint hacking fun? ....and they said it wouldnt work! Smilie



ive seen this info too. the procedure for doing it each time the thing is powered off is pretty painful, which is why i went with serial control Smilie
Can you post a pic of the serial control job you did? Reading the AVS post didn't give me a good clue
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Joined Dec 2007
Life's Apprentice
78 Reputation
#296
I located the FCC filings for both the transmitter and the dongle, and there is a 'user manual' provided to the FCC test house that is available and describes some of the connectors and pin outs on the boards that may be useful. There are also some pictures and test setup documents that might be a good reference as well.

donglehttps://apps.fcc.gov/oetcf/eas/re...J-118AN%27

transmitterhttps://apps.fcc.gov/oetcf/eas/re...J-119AN%27


Quote from hightop32 View Post :
mentioned the antenna mod potential earlier in the thread. fwiw they are u.fl connectors for 5ghz antennas, 3 jacks for each antenna for what i assume are like some of the cisco 5GHZ stuff ive seen at work that utilizes 3 connections back to an AP.

(im thinking something like the CISCO AIR-ANT5140V-R)

internal USB port could be for a number of things, but probably for updating of the board's firmware.

what is more interesting to me is pulling out the transmitter part and finding out a way to interface with it directly for making a smaller, less power hungry transmitter with a single HDMI device.

aint hacking fun? ....and they said it wouldnt work! Smilie



ive seen this info too. the procedure for doing it each time the thing is powered off is pretty painful, which is why i went with serial control Smilie
Reply Helpful Comment? 0 0
Joined Jul 2008
L10: Grand Master
3,029 Reputation
#297
Quote from newfib View Post :
I located the FCC filings for both the transmitter and the dongle, and there is a 'user manual' provided to the FCC test house that is available and describes some of the connectors and pin outs on the boards that may be useful. There are also some pictures and test setup documents that might be a good reference as well.

donglehttps://apps.fcc.gov/oetcf/eas/re...J-118AN%27

transmitterhttps://apps.fcc.gov/oetcf/eas/re...J-119AN%27
repped!

Quote from gtu2005 View Post :
Can you post a pic of the serial control job you did? Reading the AVS post didn't give me a good clue
another user on the board asked me to build a cable for them, perhaps they can take a photo. for now i am just controlling it from a pc, i need to work on some code to run on a micro controller w/ a ir receiver and serial interface with a mapping of IR code -> serial command.
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Joined Jul 2008
L10: Grand Master
3,029 Reputation
#298
Quote from snapcoyote View Post :
I got it to work with 12v / 3.25a, confirmed with multimeter. Others have got it to work with 12v / 1a so it's able to take less. My box and dongle are in the same room and only a few feet apart so I can't verify if more power is necessary if you need to stream farther.
cool! can you see how many amps its actually pulling at 12V?
FCC docs clearly show 17-24V input.

Quote from horn34 View Post :
KILL. I am so ready to smash something. I got it to work once, perfect sound and video, then when I unplugged the remote box to move it, it won't re-acquire the signal after I plugged it again again. I've gone through the exact same steps as before, yet it refuses to connect again. I've also gone through every possible permutation of power up step combinations for box boxes and it still won't connect. Unf-ing believable.
... strange. FCC docs mention a reset button... worth a shot if youve tried all of the things im not going to suggest assuming you already have checked things twice for fear of you raging. lol
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Joined Nov 2011
L4: Apprentice
41 Reputation
#299
Reviews say this is unreliable.
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Joined Jul 2008
L10: Grand Master
3,029 Reputation
#300
this looks very promising!

section 2.5 connector pinout J3.

IR_TV_IN from TV main board to IR Blaster microcontroller

I bet if you put a IR receiver here it might just work! This would probably only be for relaying IR commands to the base stations IR blaster... but still...

I say this based on the other info available, it looks like the TV and dongle use I2C to communicate for control commands. Frown
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