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LG AN-WL100 1080p Wireless Video Kit (Transmitter & Receiver) - $19

Rhythmic 869 1,695 December 4, 2012 at 03:09 PM in Tech & Electronics (8)
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Last Edited by Rhythmic January 5, 2013 at 10:03 AM
LG ANWL100 Wireless Digital Media Streamer Box wit Full HD 1080p Transmission

$19 @ All4Cellular (+ free ship) w/ Coupon Code "A4C5OFF"- http://www.all4cellular.com/product/lg-an-wl100-wireless-media-box.html

$23 @ Amazon (Prime eligible)- Linky: --Looks like Amazon ran out of them at this price, see merchant section for best possible price--

Description:
Set your TV free from connection clutter with LG's Wireless Media Kit. The kit sends an uncompressed, full HD 1080p signal to your TV from up to 50 feet away, even through walls and doors. Compatible with all 2010 LG HDTV models featuring NetCast.


Product Features
  • 1080p Wireless Transmitter
  • Wireless Receiver Included
  • 4 HDMI™ (3 back / 1 side)
  • 2 Component AV Input, PC Input, 3.5mm Audio Input
  • IR Blaster
These seem to be hackable / modable to work with non-LG sets:
https://plus.google.com/u/1/101948760925084043079/posts/btdqMZqCzEA

Note, you may find it slightly cheaper if you check the Amazon merchant list section,
http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-li...003I6718M/

Community Wiki

Last Edited by DrivenByNothing July 22, 2013 at 08:09 AM
If your LG tv has a wireless port this would work with it. My model is not listed in the supported list, but has the wireless port and this thing worked. I have 47LW5700 from Costco.

See mod to make it work for most monitors and televisions with HDMI input, https://plus.google.com/u/1/101948760925084043079/posts/btdqMZqCzEA


In a nutshell...
Quote from Flat-Line View Post :
Add a power supply and splice it to the fat + and - wires (black and red), then it'll work on any hdmi input.
If you want to switch inputs via serial follow this guide on AVSforum:
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1314796/anybody-get-lg-an-wl100-to-work-on-non-lg-tvs#post_22539561
credit erihp on AVSforum.

contact user hightop32 if you would like a cable custom made for you.


LG's Support page with a link to the manual

Service manual (PDF):
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/43051934/Manuals/LG%20AN-WL100%20Service%20Manual.pdf

Adding a standard DC jack:
http://slickdeals.net/f/5641508-LG-AN-WL100-1080p-Wireless-Video-Kit-Transmitter-Receiver-20?v=1&p=56063884#post56063884

A convenient aggregation of information on here and elsewhere (mostly about serial port communication):
http://csmatt.com/notes/?p=62

------------------------------------------
### Mini FAQ
------------------------------------------

Is this a good price?
Google Shopping says very much so. [google.com]

What does this do?
This will simply send a video and/or audio signal wirelessly from a transmitting devices to a receiver.

What inputs that the transmitting device have?
(aka - "Can I use this with a...?" Part I)
  • HDMI
  • Component AV Input
  • PC Input (VGA / RGB PC)
  • 3.5mm Audio Input
What output does the receiver have?
(aka - "Can I use this with a...?" Part II)
The receiver is limited to only a HDMI device.
This means that the television, monitor, or home entertainment receiver that you are trying to send a signal too needs to have a HDMI.


Can I use a laptop with this?
If your laptop has either a VGA [google.com] or HDMI connection, then yes. You can use the 3.5mm audio input to send an audio signal along with the VGA connection (HDMI does audio and video already).
If you run a Apple product with a display port, then you will need an adapter [google.com].


How does this work?
These devices creates a ad-hoc 5GHz wireless connection and send data over that connection.


What is the range?
The manufacture has specified 50 feet.


Can I use the switching feature if I modify this to work with non LG NetCast televisions?
Not 100% sure, but it doesn't sound like you can.

514 Comments

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#421
Quote from ogre177age View Post :
Which hole on the JP8 is positive and which is negative? Is there a picture that can show that?
See attached img. I actually only needed to pull power(+) from JP8. I was able to use the ground(-) from the two pads on J12 since that's where I was placing my power jack.

Not shown in the photo, but I also placed a bead of hot glue on the sides of the power jack. It is not a good idea to rely on surface mount pads as mounting points where it will see mechanical strain.

Quote from swjpremkumar View Post :
Check this link

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/43051934/LG/labeled2.jpg
that mod was not using jp8.
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Last edited by acerunner December 20, 2012 at 02:21 PM
#422
Quote from acerunner View Post :
See attached img. I actually only needed to pull power(+) from JP8. I was able to use the ground(-) from the two pads on J12 since that's where I was placing my power.

Not shown in the photo, but I also placed a bead of hot glue on the sides of the power jack. It is not a good idea to rely on surface mount pads as mounting points where it will see mechanical strain.


that mod was not using jp8.
Exactly what I needed. thanks so much for doing the pictures! Repped!
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#423
So has anyone found an easier way than to use the serial port to switch inputs?
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#424
Quote from acerunner View Post :
See attached img. I actually only needed to pull power(+) from JP8. I was able to use the ground(-) from the two pads on J12 since that's where I was placing my power jack.

Not shown in the photo, but I also placed a bead of hot glue on the sides of the power jack. It is not a good idea to rely on surface mount pads as mounting points where it will see mechanical strain.


that mod was not using jp8.
Wonderful. Could you please share what power jack you soldered on the board? Where did you buy it? Thanks.
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#425
Quote from netghoster View Post :
Wonderful. Could you please share what power jack you soldered on the board? Where did you buy it? Thanks.
haha, I'm planning to go the cheap route. Desolder a 2wire DC jack from old modem and use the power brick that came with the modem. That way don't have to spend money if you got one lying around. I have a few lying around.
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#426
Quote from netghoster View Post :
Wonderful. Could you please share what power jack you soldered on the board? Where did you buy it? Thanks.
Quote from ogre177age View Post :
haha, I'm planning to go the cheap route. Desolder a 2wire DC jack from old modem and use the power brick that came with the modem. That way don't have to spend money if you got one lying around. I have a few lying around.
thats what i did too. I had a busted netbook that wasnt worth fixing. I desoldered the power jack, so I got a matching jack and power supply.

If you're looking to buy one, check out digikey or mouser. They got a pretty good search tool, and you can filter by all sorts of parameters. Pick a size that works and buy it.
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Last edited by acerunner December 20, 2012 at 03:01 PM
#427
Anyone know of a way to clone two unit recievers so they could recieve the same signals?
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#428
It worked! I went with soldering J8 for + and J12 for negative and placed my DC power jack all the way to the left of unit and super glued it to the board, overall it looks neat and works great! The power supply I salvaged is a 12V 1A DC plug from netgear, lol. so i guess 12V works just as well! Been running 3 hours and seems pretty stable.
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#429
Quote from akirasaga View Post :
It worked! I went with soldering J8 for + and J12 for negative and placed my DC power jack all the way to the left of unit and super glued it to the board, overall it looks neat and works great! The power supply I salvaged is a 12V 1A DC plug from netgear, lol. so i guess 12V works just as well! Been running 3 hours and seems pretty stable.
How's the heat from the receiver?
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#430
OK one last stupid question, I cut apart my laptop adapter, bought a multimeter for 5 bucks from HF, so do I plug in the laptop adapter and test the wires and under which setting do I use on my multimeter? So many options on this thing, sorry for the super noob questions
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#431
Quote from moogoo541 View Post :
OK one last stupid question, I cut apart my laptop adapter, bought a multimeter for 5 bucks from HF, so do I plug in the laptop adapter and test the wires and under which setting do I use on my multimeter? So many options on this thing, sorry for the super noob questions

On the meter selector switch, you want to Select DC voltage. This is usually the second setting and may be labeled with Vdc. It may say Vdc on the readout also. It may be marked with a solid line over a dashed line.

Be sure to plug the black wire into the Com port on the meter. It usually has black paint by the plug.

If you read a - voltage ( -18.48 for example ) ........the red lead is connected to the Negative wire from the power supply. If not the black lead is reading the Negative from the power supply.

I hope this is a clear as mud.
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#432
I got the receiver working with a 12v 2 amp power adapter. I am getting audio as well which was a pleasant surprise however there is one thing that is bugging me. If I power off my TV and power it back on, the picture is messy almost green colored. I have to power cycle the base unit to get back good picture. Was this expected? Is it happening to everyone? Wondering if its the power adapter I used and I need to go over a more voltage one?
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#433
Quote from halcut007 View Post :
I got the receiver working with a 12v 2 amp power adapter. I am getting audio as well which was a pleasant surprise however there is one thing that is bugging me. If I power off my TV and power it back on, the picture is messy almost green colored. I have to power cycle the base unit to get back good picture. Was this expected? Is it happening to everyone? Wondering if its the power adapter I used and I need to go over a more voltage one?

I am having the same problem.......wondering if the tv and the receiver don't like each other. I am using a cheap TV ( sanyo )
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#434
Quote from adusumilli View Post :
I placed an order for it. I will report here as soon as it comes.
Did you ever learn anything from that cable?
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#435
After reading some more, it seems that others are having this problem aslo. The only solution seems to be to power off the receiver.

Guess this is what happens when it is not used for what it was designed for.
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