If it isn't clear for some, the 35mm became popular for the DX (cropped sensor) cameras as it is roughly the equivalent of the 50mm lens on the FX (full size sensory) cameras. If you put the 35mm on a FX camera, it is a mild wide angle.
50mm (or 52) is considered (on a FX) to be equivalent to the human eye. A lower number like 35mm would be a wide angle on a FX.
The next step up, the 85mm is a great portrait lens for a FX camera, roughly similar to the 50mm on a DX camera.
The person who has the kit lens already has the range from 34 to 50 covered with their lens already, and unless low light is an issue, I wouldn't get either prime (non-zoom) lens at this point.
When asking for information on a lens to buy, you need to mention the kind of shooting you are doing which will indicate what would be best for you. If you do architecture and landscapes, you want wider, i.e. (under 35 on a DX) and if you want to shoot birds or something small from a distance, go with a telephoto, perhaps the 70-300 which would be equivalent to a 105-450 on a DX.
Another thing I don't see mentioned much are the teleconverters. Basically a lens you put between the body and your regular lens. Not all versions work with all bodies so you need to check the compatibility chart on the Nikon site. We used teleconverters more with the film/FX cameras to make our lenses longer, i.e. more telephoto. since the 1.5X crop factor does a lot of that already on a DX, they became less popular when so many cameras being sold were DX type.
One more thing the newer people might not have considered is a filter or plain glass lens to tack on the front to protect the front element of your lens. The purists will say to skip it, and just be careful, but sometimes sacrificing a nearly immeasurable quality difference is worth the protection for the front element.
My 24-120 has a couple scratches right in the middle of the lens that got there somehow when it wasn't protected. Will be hundreds of dollars to fix, or do like I do, and ignore the scratches The scratches will lower resale value. You can get a clear front lens, or what a lot of people do is get a UV or haze filter if they do mostly outdoor shooting.
Just like with regular lenses, there is a huge quality difference on filters so buy accordingly.
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By a new one. I think sear charge tax. The lens price doesnt drop very fast as the body. Some people complain about the motor can get wrong so 10% more (about 20$) for 4 more years (total 5 years) of guarantee is not to expensive. I LOVE this lens.
Look at my pics. Out of the camera no photoshop. http://www.flickr.com/photos/9107...otostream/
1) You are going to be charged tax and shipping. You can buy this lens on craigslist for $150 or cheaper. Look around.
2) With the cashback programs out there through all the sites and your CC + free shipping and no tax, your total will be very close to what you pay for refurbished one. With the refurbished one you get 1 year warranty. With the new one, 5 year warranty.
Take your 18-55mm lens, zoom it to 35mm, and walk around shooting for 10 minutes or so. Now, zoom your lens to 50mm, and do the same thing. That's the difference between the 35mm and 50mm. The 35mm is a very nice, classic lens better for general shooting, whereas the 50mm is a little more zoomed in, better for portraits, photos of smaller objects, etc.
This lens is probably as good a choice as any for your next lens, along with something telephoto for sports and wildlife like a Tamron 70-300mm VC. After that, it's time to focus on some secondary gear. Pick yourself up a good $150-$200 tripod and a Nikon SB-700 flash.
I'm not sure what you're getting at with this. You're talking about FX cameras and 50mm lenses in a DX lens thread.
The 35mm is an absolute gem to have for a second lens. It is sharp as hell.
Plus, the 1.8 aperture combined with a higher ISO (around 1600, 3200, 6400 depending on the amount of light) will allow you to get great indoor shots using available light.
1.8 will also give you great shallow depth of field in everyday shooting.
Sure, you cannot zoom with the 35mm but many argue that it makes you a better photographer when you must work within certain restrictions. 35mm on your crop sensor camera will give you about the same field of view as the human eye. Use your feet, move around, get in close to your subject and you can't do wrong with this lens.
Thanks very much for the replies. Basically I have the similar question, I recently got D5100 and 18-55mm lens with it, I thought of getting 55-200mm should I get that or this one and what is the difference?
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