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| 02-12-2013, 11:18 AM | |
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I'm an outdoor adventurer, science geek, classical guitarist, programmer, photographer, audiophile, and car nut, so I try to help the SD community by posting useful information in those areas.
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In any case, if you really want to do it right you shouldn't tighten lugs (or anything else really) with an impact. You can use an air tool to save time on threading the lugs/bolts back on, but final torquing should always be done with the proper tool. Most lugs/studs are only meant to be torqued to ~75-90 ft/lbs. I do most of my torquing with a 75ft/lb and a 150ft/lb beam; I haven't yet had occasion to need a heavy duty 200ft/lb+ one for axle nuts or whatnot. |
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I've read and talked to many an auto mechanic that the electronic torque wrenches are not as trust worthy as the click-style, which are only nominally less trust worthy than the mechanical beam style, based on comparing the three.
ie Beam>Click>>>electronic a few that I talked to said they use the Click style for bolts/etc first, then where the absolute torque can be off by a few lb/ft they leave good enough alone, for absolute they will then verify with the beam style. |
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Now I test my clicker torque wrench at various torque ratings by comparing it to a beam type as a reference which I don't use often because I don't want to wear it out! |
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I have the previous version of this wrench and it is currently broken. I used it to rebuild a motor and it was fine for that, but once I did not use it as frequently, it started eating batteries and the buttons stopped working properly (can't adjust torque setting). Here's a link [siber-sonic.com]describing the issues and possible fixes for the problems with the previous model.
Bottom line, get a mechanical one. |
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