Craftsman 3 Ton Floor Jack, Jack Stands and Creeper Set 50% Off + $10 Back in Points: $79.99 AC (reg. $159.99) + Free Shipping ~ Sears

Ugh i was just about to order too, said 3 in stock!

The jack is not that bad and if you need a creeper+stands this is not a bad deal.

However, if you have a Costco membership and only need a jack, get the Arcan XL. It's miles away from this jack and costs $100. To get better than an Arcan XL you would have to go Napa pro or something similar at +$300 for a jack.

ok the deal is dead. Can anyone recommend a good set with slow lowering function and no oil leak (Craftsman, HFT, etc.) so that I will look to pound on a good deal in the future? I could buy from Sam's and Costco. Thanks.

If the Craftsman deal is truly dead get the Costco Arcan for 99. That's the best affordable one out there IMO for the money. Wait for a good deal on a better quality creeper + jackstand (Sears/hf)

Quote from pclstyle : ugh, that sounds unpleasant. How exactly do the vise grips help? Also, after you're done with the work and you've jacked it back up and pulled the jack stands out, does that mean you run the risk of dropping the car 12 inches, sending it crashing to the floor? how would that be acceptable?

I'm going to write this as if you (the reader, not you specifically) has never touched a jack.

The valve on your hydraulic floor jack is controlled by the same handle you use to raise (pump) the jack. A beveled gear transmits the rotary motion from the jack handle to the valve, allowing the valve to be opened and closed with the handle in any position.

However, in my experience several things come into play -
· The angle of the handle to the jack affects the difficulty of control
· - It's as if the more upright the handle, the worse the leverage or that the gear binds a little, therefore
· - you do have better control over the valve the more you lower the handle from a straight upright position.

· Since it is considered undesirable for the jack to "leak down" while supporting the weight of the vehicle, the tendency is to over-tighten the valve. This has disadvantages.
· - It increases the already existing tendency for this jack's valve to "pop open," allowing the jack to lower at a rate faster than intended, or even seem to fall.
· - Add to that, the less-than-optimal control of the valve when the jack handle is at a near right angle to the jack.
· - Further add the tendency for the operator to over-tighten the valve, which makes seem a little stuck and even more likely to "pop open."

· Note: Don't over-tighten the valve. It doesn't help the jack "stay up" any better, and in the case of this jack, eventually "blows the seat," after that happens, the valve no longer seals completely regardless of how hard you turn the handle to close it, the jack will leak down. A moderate, firm twisting pressure should be sufficient. Since you should never use a jack to support a vehicle during maintenance (use jack stands!) paranoia about the jack leaking down is unjustified.

I don't work for Sears, but feel safe in saying

• Blowing the seat is the most common user-caused failure mode for this jack.

Use caution. With a little experience, you'll soon know how much force you need to use. If you're one of those folks who get complaints about over tightening things, you need to lighten up. If you don't, save your receipt - the valve is uneconomical* to repair and Sears won't give warranty service without proof of purchase date.

Commercial jacks are much better about allowing you to crack open the valve to start gradually lowering the vehicle, but they are larger, much heavier and cost a lot more.

This all might help explain why vice-grips could help you control the descent of your vehicle. Although "sending your vehicle" "crashing 12 inches to the floor" doesn't help your wheel alignment any, you're not likely to do any damage if you first make sure nothing is underneath. (voice of experience here )

With all that in mind, I used a Sears jack that looked like this for most of a year in a shop setting, and had no problems controlling it. It worked great until a crack-head coworker blew out the valve seat.

I'd like a little higher lift range than this jack has, but that's what wood blocks are for.

This jack weighs ~90 pounds. Keep that in mind if you'll need to pick it up.

* replacing the valve body would the repair for a leaking valve on this model jack.

Quote from Roveldude : You have been warned!

i bought this set last year and that statement is VERY true. going up is easy, but getting it to come down nice and smooth is impossible. and the jack is VERY heavy and does not roll around that easily.

the creeper is just ok. comfy, but not very sturdy. i have not yet used the jack stands.

if i had to do it again, i would not buy this set.

Quote from K6-2 : I'm going to write this as if you (the reader, not you specifically) has never touched a jack. The valve on your hydraulic floor jack is controlled by the same handle you use to raise (pump) the jack. A beveled gear transmits the rotary motion from the jack handle to the valve, allowing the valve to be opened and closed with the handle in any position. However, in my experience several things come into play - · The angle of the handle to the jack affects the difficulty of control · - It's as if the more upright the handle, the worse the leverage or that the gear binds a little, therefore · - you do have better control over the valve the more you lower the handle from a straight upright position. · Since it is considered undesirable for the jack to "leak down" while supporting the weight of the vehicle, the tendency is to over-tighten the valve. This has disadvantages. · - It increases the already existing tendency for this jack's valve to "pop open," allowing the jack to lower at a rate faster than intended, or even seem to fall. · - Add to that, the less-than-optimal control of the valve when the jack handle is at a near right angle to the jack. · - Further add the tendency for the operator to over-tighten the valve, which makes seem a little stuck and even more likely to "pop open." · Note: Don't over-tighten the valve. It doesn't help the jack "stay up" any better, and in the case of this jack, eventually "blows the seat," after that happens, the valve no longer seals completely regardless of how hard you turn the handle to close it, the jack will leak down. A moderate, firm twisting pressure should be sufficient. Since you should never use a jack to support a vehicle during maintenance (use jack stands!) paranoia about the jack leaking down is unjustified. I don't work for Sears, but feel safe in saying Blowing the seat is the most common user-caused failure mode for this jack. Use caution. With a little experience, you'll soon know how much force you need to use. If you're one of those folks who get complaints about over tightening things, you need to lighten up. If you don't, save your receipt - the valve is uneconomical* to repair and Sears won't give warranty service without proof of purchase date. Commercial jacks are much better about allowing you to crack open the valve to start gradually lowering the vehicle, but they are larger, much heavier and cost a lot more. This all might help explain why vice-grips could help you control the descent of your vehicle. Although "sending your vehicle" "crashing 12 inches to the floor" doesn't help your wheel alignment any, you're not likely to do any damage if you first make sure nothing is underneath. (voice of experience here ) With all that in mind, I used a Sears jack that looked like this for most of a year in a shop setting, and had no problems controlling it. It worked great until a crack-head coworker blew out the valve seat. I'd like a little higher lift range than this jack has, but that's what wood blocks are for. This jack weighs ~90 pounds. Keep that in mind if you'll need to pick it up. * replacing the valve body would the repair for a leaking valve on this model jack.

fantastic writeup; i appreciate you taking the time to articulate that. after browsing numerous reviews from a variety of sites, i came to the similar conclusion that user error may be a significant contributing factor in many of the reported failure cases. i decided to make this purchase. big thanks to you and roveldude for helping me make what i feel to be an informed decision. i'll be sure to keep the possibility of over-tightening in mind while using this jack.

I recommend looking at the heavy duty 3 ton pittsburg jack with rapid pump from harbor freights! Works swell for me. You could probably find some coupons here for it too.

This is a pretty good jack, got it for the same price before. It just wouldn't fit my lowered car.. lol

How odd. The stands for this set say "The stand features a welded steel construction for stability and a supporting range from 11.25 inches to 16.75 inches."

The stands for the 2 1/4 ton jack say:General Features:
Lift Type: Floor jack(s)
Maximum Height (in.): 18 in.
Capacity: 2-1/4 ton

Are these weaker stands actually better than the ones included here (other than weight capacity obviously). Wonder why they would include shorter stands with a jack that can raise higher. The 2 1/4 ton jack only lifts to 15" according to specs.

Quote from nomadpp : If you are looking for jacks, another alternative I can recommend is the jacks from Costco. Got it a few years ago and it has always been solid. Good control in lowering as well. Goes for about $110 now I think.

I saw an amazingly, high lifting and low profile, yesterday. Atleast, over 22 inches. I actually stood there and gasped. I think it was 89 dollars.

i bought this very set 4 years ago. i am still using them daily to this day. the wheels are starting to get bent on the creeper. everyone is right tho, the jack is hard to let down slowly. if you two hand it and control yourself sometimes you can get it slower but its not with ease.

for the price you cant beat it. the jack is very heavy but at least its sturdy. the stands are 100%

Link doesn't work.

Crap, missed it.