Wagner ThermoQuiet Brake Pads: Up to $30 Rebate with Purchase of Front/Back Brake Sets: Semi Metallic Disc Brake Pad Set $9 after $15 rebate & More

Quote from imabored : Thanks! was cheaper at Rockauto than Amazon. it was about $32 a piece on Amazon, but $25 a piece at RockAuto

Same on my case, but I am getting ~$8 extra for shipping :/.

Amazon might just be the best bet..

Also, just read the fine print:
"Maximum product rebate is $30 ($15 front set and/or $15 rear set)."

So in my case I only have the front pads that qualify, and no eligible rear items. So I am guessing my rebate would only be $15?

This isn't turning out to be the deal that I imagined..

Quote from decolores9 : We were discussing the Wagner Thermo Quiet pads, the semi-metallic pads that are the subject of this thread.

You seriously have no idea what you're talking about. "ThermoQuiet" brake pads are available as both ceramic and semi-metallic, and this rebate encompasses both. For example, both "Wagner QC537 ThermoQuiet Ceramic Disc Brake Pad Set" and "Wagner MX857 ThermoQuiet Semi Metallic Disc Brake Pad Set" are both included in the rebate. "ThermoQuiet" is a brand name, the part number distinguishes ceramic from semi-metallic.

Quote : Agreed, it's OK to turn the rotors rather than replace them, but often it costs more to turn them than to replace them, and many rotors are made so thin anymore that they cannot be turned. As a result, usually one will save money by replacing the rotors rather than turning them.

Virtually all modern pads bed in due to a layer of material added to the surface of the pad which is different from the rest of the pad's composition. Nobody in their right mind replaces rotors with every pad change - most rotors will *easily* last through two or three pad changes.

On a modern car, the ONLY reason to turn rotors is if your existing rotors are glazed, warped, or otherwise damaged. If they are not, DON'T. If they are below minimum thickness, or turning them to cure the aforementioned issues will reduce them to below minimum thickness, then and only then *must* they be replaced. That said, most brands - especially European brands, but increasingly everyone else - recommend against turning rotors in general. That means if they are glazed, warped, damaged, or below minimum thickness they should be replaced.

The crosshatching - or whatever pattern is left from machining during manufacture - has nothing to due with pads bedding in. To properly bed in a pad, follow the instructions that come with the pad. Usually it's something along the lines of three gradual stops from 30mph separated by 300 yards of driving. It varies - Hawk for example wants more stops from higher speeds - but that's a decent rule of thumb.

Christ, I just spent 20 minutes going through every factory service manual I have (and I have a couple dozen of them) to find some quote by some manufacturer specifically addressing the need to replace rotors with every pad change, and Alfa Romeo, BMW, Ford, Honda, Cadillac, Pontiac, Saab, Merkur, Volvo, and Chrysler don't even mention pad+rotor replacement because it's such a retarded notion. The closest thing I've got is from Chrysler, who says "At each shoe change, measure rotor thickness at the center of the brake shoe contact surface. Replace the rotor if it is worn below minimum thickness or if machining the rotor surface will cause its thickness to fall below specifications." There is no crazy talk about automatically replacing rotors with pads.

If you are going around replacing rotors with every pad change, that's your own exciting insanity. Don't try to convince other people that you have a single clue what you're talking about. You don't.

On amazon for a 2007 Honda Civic it gives me 3 options to choose from: Wanger QC465A (ceramic), QC829 (ceramic), and MX948 (semi metallic). I know that my car uses front brake pads and drums for the rear. Which one should I pick and is ceramic or semi-metallic better?

Quote from decoys : On amazon for a 2007 Honda Civic it gives me 3 options to choose from: Wanger QC465A (ceramic), QC829 (ceramic), and MX948 (semi metallic). I know that my car uses front brake pads and drums for the rear. Which one should I pick and is ceramic or semi-metallic better?

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=ceramic+pads...allic+pads

Quote from thesameguy : You seriously have no idea what you're talking about. "ThermoQuiet" brake pads are available as both ceramic and semi-metallic, and this rebate encompasses both. For example, both "Wagner QC537 ThermoQuiet Ceramic Disc Brake Pad Set" and "Wagner MX857 ThermoQuiet Semi Metallic Disc Brake Pad Set" are both included in the rebate. "ThermoQuiet" is a brand name, the part number distinguishes ceramic from semi-metallic. Virtually all modern pads bed in due to a layer of material added to the surface of the pad which is different from the rest of the pad's composition. Nobody in their right mind replaces rotors with every pad change - most rotors will *easily* last through two or three pad changes. On a modern car, the ONLY reason to turn rotors is if your existing rotors are glazed, warped, or otherwise damaged. If they are not, DON'T. If they are below minimum thickness, or turning them to cure the aforementioned issues will reduce them to below minimum thickness, then and only then *must* they be replaced. That said, most brands - especially European brands, but increasingly everyone else - recommend against turning rotors in general. That means if they are glazed, warped, damaged, or below minimum thickness they should be replaced. The crosshatching - or whatever pattern is left from machining during manufacture - has nothing to due with pads bedding in. To properly bed in a pad, follow the instructions that come with the pad. Usually it's something along the lines of three gradual stops from 30mph separated by 300 yards of driving. It varies - Hawk for example wants more stops from higher speeds - but that's a decent rule of thumb. Christ, I just spent 20 minutes going through every factory service manual I have (and I have a couple dozen of them) to find some quote by some manufacturer specifically addressing the need to replace rotors with every pad change, and Alfa Romeo, BMW, Ford, Honda, Cadillac, Pontiac, Saab, Merkur, Volvo, and Chrysler don't even mention pad+rotor replacement because it's such a retarded notion. The closest thing I've got is from Chrysler, who says "At each shoe change, measure rotor thickness at the center of the brake shoe contact surface. Replace the rotor if it is worn below minimum thickness or if machining the rotor surface will cause its thickness to fall below specifications." There is no crazy talk about automatically replacing rotors with pads. If you are going around replacing rotors with every pad change, that's your own exciting insanity. Don't try to convince other people that you have a single clue what you're talking about. You don't.

I think hes a shady mechanic who is just trying his best to spread a rumor that you need to replace rotors with every pad replacement cuz it probably turns a $200 brake pad job into a $400 resurfacing job.

To turn or not to turn, to replace or not to replace, THAT is the question! God....what we don't bitch about in these threads. All that is needed is user discretion. I would rather be traveling with or alongside someone who has replaced all of the wearable brake components than just slapping on new pads and calling it the day. That little bit of extra money you spend could just save your life! Oh, and try living in an area that experiences winter. Talk about wrecking havoc on your rotors! Never mind any other exposed bare metal that gets salt laden water or snow on it!

Quote from purecash123 : Same on my case, but I am getting ~$8 extra for shipping :/. Amazon might just be the best bet..

You're right, Amazon may be the best bet in some cases.
For instance, you're probably charged an extra $8 for shipping because you probably ordered two sets, front and rear, and Rock Auto had to ship them separately from two different warehouse locations around the US. Sometimes one warehouse may run out of stock, so you get two different location shipments. That's one drawback of the RockAuto shipment cost system.
Also, if Amazon or RockAuto charges tax in your state, that's another factor.
Or, if you absolutely, positively you've got to have them shoes by the next day and you've got Amazon Prime, that's another factor.

How are y'all going to get them installed? Take the pads to some shop like justbrakes? how much I should pay to get my rear brake pads installed? I am not a car parts / service savvy person. Toyota Dealer told me I am 4mm on my rear brake pads and he can do it for 170 for my 2006 RAV/4. Any advice for me?

Thank you.

Quote from FrozenMonkey : How are y'all going to get them installed? Take the pads to some shop like justbrakes? how much I should pay to get my rear brake pads installed? I am not a car parts / service savvy person. Toyota Dealer told me I am 4mm on my rear brake pads and he can do it for 170 for my 2006 RAV/4. Any advice for me? Thank you.

If you've got the parts a competent but honest mechanic should do the single axle job for around $30, assuming it's a simple pads changing job with no complications like frozen calipers, rotor jobs, etc.

PepBoys and other national chains like Advance Auto and Autozone often advertise sales of single axle brake jobs, that include labor and pads for around $60.00 or so.

Dealers would charge about 3X as much and they should be avoided unless $$$ is burning holes in your pockets. But then you wouldn't be checking Slickdeals!

My advance auto parts wearever gold pads are still going strong and quite around 10K miles since it was installed. They're dirt cheap to boot, just say'n.

Not sure how much people are paying but I got 4 new rotors and 4 brake pads installed for a labor charge of $150 from a random mechanic on craigslist, including bleeding and replacement of the brake fluid

I paid an additional $163 for the parts from eBay (zinc plated crossed drilled rotors and ceramic pads)

Quote from decolores9 : We were discussing the Wagner Thermo Quiet pads, the semi-metallic pads that are the subject of this thread.

Regardless if Thermoquiet comes in semi-metallic, organic, or ceramic or other material, turning and/or replacing rotors IS NOT necessary -- unless it is. If you are a mechanic, I would stay away from you like the plague.. If you advise unsuspecting customers unnecessary work like this, who knows what extra work you will recommend for something as simple as an oil change. No thanks!!

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