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Rustoleum Cabinet Transformation Kits EXPIRED

brisar 116,519 April 4, 2013 at 01:06 PM in Free Shipping (3) More Home Depot Deals
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Promoted 04-05-2013 at 05:34 AM View Original Post
Home Depot has Rustoleum Cabinet Transformation Kits on sale for $44.69. Shipping is free. Thanks brisar

Note, you may save an extra $10 off $100 with promo code SBFHD10 (apply at checkout).
Alternatively, Amazon also has Rustoleum Cabinet Transformation Kits (White, Expresso, Cabernet) on sale for $44.69Shipping is free.

Note, item may be temporarily out of stock but you may still place an order; usually ships within 2-3 weeks.

Original Post

UPDATE:
Amazon [amazon.com] has matched the price of $44.69
(thanks uEih)

Home Depot

Rustoleum Cabinet Transformation Kits
$44.69

Save additional $10 off $100+ w/ promo code SBFHD10
get 3 kits for $124

Free shipping

127 Comments

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#61
I used the Espresso Kit on both of our bathroom vanities and In our laundry room. It did a fantastic job of giving our honey oak cabinetry a face lift.

I will say it can be time consuming. It took about 2 days per room while accounting for drying time. I also skipped the glazing process since I didn't think it would add much to the already dark color. The glaze probably would have added another day of drying time.

In the end I am incredibly happy with the results. I didn't need to sand as some have posted here. The liquid sander product in the kit was suffiicient. However I would suggest picking up more scrubbies for the job. Also, pick up a high-quality brush as well. Your finished product will only be as good as your brush. I used a Purdy and it eliminated brush strokes. Lastly, relax and take your time. Some calm, relaxing music can go a long way.

Happy painting!
Last edited by whoops my halo April 5, 2013 at 08:30 AM
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#62
Quote from TheYoz View Post :
Really? I think those results are excellent
I guess I was hoping for more of a dark stained look rather than brown paint.
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#63
Quote from jtroberts View Post :
I have the Espresso kit and already transformed my batheroom vanity. It looks amazing now and I'm glad that I did it. To get a really nice look make sure you take your time when applying this kit as it will take a decent amount of time. I only ended up using 1/4 of the entire small size kit on the 5 foot stretch of vanity so it goes a long ways! I attached pictures below. I applied 2 very thin layers of the Base coat which created a Hershey chocolate color, then I applied the glaze to get the darker and richer Espresso color I wanted. To finish I applied 2 very very thin coats of the top protectant. I do have 2 tips if you are going to buy these kits:

1. The first step of the process is applying a liquid sander to dull down the varnish. We scrubbed the crap out of the cabinets with the stuff for over an hour and it still didn't do a very good job. I ended up digging out my power sander and quickly went over all of the cabinets and it got the job done in 1/10 of the time and was much easier and did a far superior job. If you don't have a power sander it may be worth getting one (even a cheap one) on amazon as they do come in very handy for many projects.

2. The last step is applying the protective top coat varnish (which dries very quickly as your applying it). I started doing this with a 2" soft synthetic brush like it recommends and it turned out really bad and streaky. Luckily I tested it on the back of one of the doors first. I did some research and found a lot of people have the same issue. Turns out using a 4" foam brush is the way to go. Make sure you buy 2 of 3 of the good quality foam brushes. I bought mine from Lowes and they were about $4 a brush. Don't buy the cheap $1 foam brushes as the foam isn't as dense or tight. When applying the top coat I first used the 2" synthetic to brush to apply a generous coat of the varnish ( its ok if its a little runny at this point.) *Don't use the foam brush to apply the top coat from the can, only use it to perform the last step of wiping it down. Next take the 4" foam brush and firmly press down on one of the cabinet edges and then drag the brush across the entire length of the cabinet without stopping and keep it in a straight line. The foam brush soaks up and wipes away all of the extra top coat leaving a very thin even coat. If the foam brush gets too saturated with the top coat it will leave lines and puddles on the cabinet. Wipe any drips with the foam brush. After you move on to the next cabinet door you will want to check on the previously done door as drips will most likely develop on it which you will need to once again wipe away with the foam brush. Once the first coat is dry (2-3 hrs) then apply a second coat in the same way. Make sure you use a clean, dry foam brush.


This is a great deal and worth the time and $ as long as you take your time and do it right! Rep!
Painted cabinets with new hardware looks nice. Also, Your wife is a real slob.

Quote from TheYoz View Post :
I recenly bought a house and the cabinets needed some love. I bought an orbital sander and sanded EVERYTHING. I primed them, and here comes my biggest mistake... Used GLOSS "self leveling paint" from SW. I painted it Dover White and I love the color but I hate the paint job. I used a high quality brush, but will the Gloss finish I can still see some brush marks. Self leveling my A$$!

I may have to check this out.
How do you level something that's vertical? ID-10T error..
Last edited by ctsinc April 5, 2013 at 08:36 AM
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#64
Quote from verballz View Post :
Can someone comment on this who is in the "know"?
.
They look great and the coating is very durable. Some places where one of the knobs has hit a door there is no mark or cracking in the coat. I think the white over light wood would be great. Just make sure you clean them first, that is the most important step. Make sure the base has a good layer to attach to.
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#65
Quote from jtroberts View Post :

1. The first step of the process is applying a liquid sander to dull down the varnish. We scrubbed the crap out of the cabinets with the stuff for over an hour and it still didn't do a very good job. I ended up digging out my power sander and quickly went over all of the cabinets and it got the job done in 1/10 of the time and was much easier and did a far superior job. If you don't have a power sander it may be worth getting one (even a cheap one) on amazon as they do come in very handy for many projects.

Quote from Shakes2070 View Post :
You don't need to sand. The "deglazer" takes the shine off and you start covering. I had alot of nooks and crannies I did not want to deal with trying to sand and was happy with how it refinished. If you have flat cabinets without detail, go for sanding down to fresh wood, but if you are looking to to put a nice, durable finish without going to fresh wood, I think this is a great option.

Drying time and doing inside and outside of doors makes this more than a weekend job. Being able to fill the old holes with filler prior to refinishing makes changing hardware easy.

What this second guy said. You DON'T sand with liquid sander. It may not even take the shine off. Read the instructions people! You simply apply it, it softens/modifies the existing finishing allowing the new coating to adhere better.

Someone wasted lots of time. Don't do what he did.
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#66
Quote from OzTambo View Post :
i have two boxes of Expresso.. sitting waiting to be used.. Have not even touched them from last SD post

Sounds like some of my projects. Takes a little of the 'express' out of the Expresso, does it not?Wink
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#67
how come i don't see pics in jroberts post everyone is referring to?
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#68
Quote from uEih View Post :
WOW!! Amazing!! I have an older looking bathroom cabinets that look like yours, you just convinced me to get this the only problem is I would like to replace the counter top on top later on also but it's difficult finding a good size, probably have to get it custom made. I think I might buy this kit since it's a great price for such a big difference! Then decide later on the sink and counter top. I have a double sink and hopefully one kit is enough to cover both.. my vanity doesn't have sides(walls are on both sides) so I think it'll be enough.
I also replaced my counter top with a more modern one. I special ordered the laminate 5 ft counter top from Mendards and it cost $130. I did the sink cutout myself as I didnt have the sink model for the manufacturer to use. It was really easy if you have a jigsaw. Basically you turn off the water supply to the sink/s and unhook the plumbing. Then use a box cutter to cut the silicone around/under the sink which holds it to the counter. Remove the sink, unscrew the countertop from the cabinet and remove the counter top. I then used a large flat piece of cardboard and taped in over the old countertops sink hole and used a marker to draw a accurate outline of the sink onto the cardboard. Then remove the carboard and cut out the circle you traced. Now lay the cardboard circle on top of the new countertop in the proper position where you want the sink and then draw the pattern onto the new counter, remove the cardboard circle and then apply painters tape over top of the circle you drew on the counter (this prevents chipping when cutting with the jigsaw) Once taped over lay the cardboard circle on top of the counter in the exact same spot and draw the same outline over top of the tape. Remove the cardboard circle and using a drill with a 1/2 bit or so drill a starter hole inside of the circle you drew so you can insert the jigsaw and then just cut out the circle following your marker line. Once you have cut 1/2 or more of the circle then place something under the counter you are about to cut out or have someone hold it so it is supported (otherwise the weight might pull it down and cause cracking). Once the circle is cut out then you will want to smear silicone or waterproof glue on the inside of the cut to waterproof the partical board. Now reinstall and screw in the countertop to the vanity. Apply a hefty string of caulk to the bottom or the sink and place it in the cutout and clean any excess caulk that oozes out. It took me maybe 2 hours from start to finish on the counter top.
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#69
Quote from vulches View Post :
I would not try to paint oak unless you want the grain texture showing through. It's not a great wood for painting but it is very forgiving with stain.

You will still see the wood grain after two coats. These pictures are from a honey oak color, with two coats of the Rustoleum.

I would say it depends on your tastes, but overall the wood grain showing isn't terrible. One solution would be to use a primer first and paint it going against the grain and then with the grain. Doing this will help cover the grain more than anything else. I guess it all depends on what you want to do more of, primer or Rustoleum. Either way, you will be applying more than just two coats.

I hope that helps a little bit.
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#70
Quote from PiratePenguin View Post :
I'm not really loving the results I see of closeup pictures. Looks like cheap paint.

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ZcpsKwn...C_1864.JPG

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LyYOdpD...C_1865.JPG
Only looks like paint if you apply it too thick. Mine looks more like stain than paint as I did thin layers.
Last edited by jtroberts April 5, 2013 at 09:20 AM
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#71
anybody with laminate/melanine cabinets do this?
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#72
Quote from verballz View Post :
Can someone comment on this who is in the "know"?

I have the "honey" oak colored cabinets - which I despise. Good cabinets, just hate the color. Want to go white, thus would this be a good kit? Or should I take everything off sand down, and start fresh.


Time, Willingness & Patience I have - experience in Handy work I do not.
Our house was filled with the "Honey Oak" cabinets that you describe. We tested out this product in our hall bath on a 5' vanity, large upper two-door cabinet above toilet, and in-wall medicine cabinet. Our cabinet doors are raised-panel, Roman Ogee, so the "no sanding" aspect of this kit was appealing. But make no mistake - the prep work you have to do with this kit is pretty time-consuming (if you do it right).

In the case of our small hall bath, we had five cabinet doors and five drawer fronts. If you were to have those removed (an hour, maybe?) by the time you wanted to start on a Friday evening, you could have everything de-glossed (including the cabinets) by late Friday night. If you hit it early on Saturday morning, they will be ready for a second coat by mid-afternoon. By the evening, they will be ready for the glaze product (if desired - if not, you could put on the finish product). Early Sunday morning you could do another coat of finish product. We let it dry past the recommended time and Sunday evening started to re-assemble.

I guess what I'm saying is this: it can be a weekend project if, and only if, you plan accordingly and don't mess around - the dry times are very important.

We did find that where the cabinets were not finished properly (stained only, with no finish), the bond coat required more than two coats. For the most part, this wasn't an issue, except when we did our living room built-in bookshelf cabinet interiors.

That being said, this is a great product. For people who just want to slap some paint on a cabinet for their renters, you might get some uneducated negative comments about this product. But this box has: deglosser (cheap), bond coat/tinted primer (moderate), protective top coat (moderate), glaze (moderate). Add up all of these products individually, and you're way over $44... $79 normal price? It's pushing it, but the convenience of it all made it worth it for me. For $44, it's a no-brainer, if you're looking to paint existing wood cabinets.

Oh, and for people complaining about "still being able to see the grain" on oak cabinets....well, you need to adjust your expectations. In order to make oak look flawlessly smooth (um...like melamine?), you would need to coat the entire cabinet with some type of filler and sand it smooth - in other words, you'd be better off just ripping out your oak cabinets and replacing them with melamine.
Last edited by joefix93 April 5, 2013 at 09:38 AM
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#73
Quote from langjie View Post :
anybody with laminate/melanine cabinets do this?
Yeah I'd like to know this as well. I have a rental mobile home that has those cheap wood grain appearance cabinets but they are simply covered particle board.
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#74
Quote from aggravated View Post :
What this second guy said. You DON'T sand with liquid sander. It may not even take the shine off. Read the instructions people! You simply apply it, it softens/modifies the existing finishing allowing the new coating to adhere better.

Someone wasted lots of time. Don't do what he did.
I used the deglosser and it was as hard as sanding.I wound up hand sanding. Don't you have to get the gloss removed or to a minimum? I'm thinking about buying a palm sander to degloss my kitchen cabinets.
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#75
Before purchasing, you may want to checkout the MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheet for information on hazardous materials in this paint kit:

http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/...c6551c.pdf

*Contains known carcinogens*
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