If your Sears is anything like mine, be prepared to spend the day. I had my tires mounted at Sears in October 2011 and got free lifetime rotation. Between 2 vehicles, we've had the tires rotated by Sears once since then. The reason for this is that every single time we call Sears, we are quoted 4+ hours to rotate the tires.
oh yeah that's true, I should have noted that at the time those I didn't pay attention to were rear discs, but i would guess it's about the same as on drums. And yeah I hear ya about it bein a pain. I've done my rear drums before. Just to adjust them or a couple and then one with a whole shoe replacement job. And I tell you, you grow gray hairs in the hours you can spend doing it if you only have basic tools and not the specialty tools and spreaders made for that job.. and oh yes i do love those Youtubers. Scotty Kilmer is good at making fast overviews, but the great one is EricTheCarGuy if you really want to learn something in quick but close to real time as the procedures get. You feel like you can really do it all and even though it's a tough job, he still makes it seem that way. I think I saw a tranny swap once that I felt like he made seem so doable.. however I'm not attempting that anytime soon... haha. But yeah, mine were star adjusted so that's what had to be done to remove the covers...
And heck yeah, I think I went through one and a half cans ust cleaning all that accumulated grime off. Word of advice, if you're using that much, mae sure to tell the neighbors to close their windows, as I heard a loud slam midway through because of the fumes hahaha!
It's a bit of a pain but not too bad. This is for rear drum brakes. First you need to remove the dust cover which is in the center of the rotor/drum. This you need to carefully pry it up then remove it. It's usually aluminum. Then you need to remove the brake drum, which surrounds the brake (probably different depending on the car and breaking system). Be sure to release the emergency brake, otherwise you won't be able to remove the brake drum. Then you basically use a small sludge hammer against the rotor cover to knock it loose. Once that is removed you hammer out the old stud. Then put the new one in the same hole. Put a couple large bolts on the other side of the rotor, then put a lug nut on. Use an impact gun or a hell of a lot of elbow grease to torque and pull the lug nut into the rotor. Check to make sure its pulled all the way in and compare it to the other lug studs. There are metal groves on the lug stud that basically need to be forced into the rotor and perhaps it scraps off a tiny bit of metal on the lug stud to make a it a good solid fit. Thats why it requires a lot of force to get it in all the way.
It's also a good idea to inspect the brakes at that time and use some break cleaner on the brake assembly and rotor drum. Then reassemble as normal.
There are some good youtube video's on how to do it, so if you ever need to replace one I recommend watching one.
Pretty sure he's trolling. Good work, I reported him for trolling/spamming. That is just ridiculous posting "You should have just let them rotate your tires as the coupon says" 10x over in this thread.
I have a love / hate relationship with SlickDeals. I love it when I get a good deal, and hate it when I miss out!
When they sold me the warranty plan, they had told me that if i'm in an area without a DT, i could have the tire replaced by some other shop and to save the receipt.
well like 6 months later i have to move to another area that has no DT and as i'm there, i ask what do i do if i have a flat or something that requires a new tire. This time the person acts really annoyed and tells me that he guesses if i bring in the original tire and receipt that they should be able to compensate you for it. The person who sold me the plan never told me about saving the original tire, and only said I would need the receipt.
these guys will tell you anything to make a sale.
Weird, I once had this, I just had to fax them the receipt... they paid me back almost instantly. Tire Rack is the same way.
Just make sure it's "Documented" though, not just a bill for a new tire. IE: Have the shop note that it was "nail in sidewall, unrepairable"...
Mark the initial position of the wheel in question (use chalk or masking tape).
Appropriately place your jack to lift your wheel in question, or best use a car lift.
Spin tire by hand or start car and use reverse to spin wheels under car power.
Spin tire until it is 180 degrees from where it started (note your chalk or masking tape marker).
If this doesn't make sense or if you require assistance, bring these instructions to your mechanic and ask them to do it.
If you are in NoVA and are taking these instructions to mechanic, please let me know and I would swing by to see the reaction of mechanic. I would deeply appreciate the opportunity of happiness you would give me by doing it. Probably many SDers would like to grasp this opportunity...
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