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Heavy Duty 3 Ton Floor Jack w/ Rapid Pump - for $69.99 [harborfreight]

deals4mykids 16,888 August 25, 2013 at 05:47 AM in Home & Home Improvement (2) More Harbor Freight Deals
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Heavy Duty 3 Ton Floor Jack w/ Rapid Pump - for $69.99 [harborfreight]

Save $80

This 3 ton steel auto jack features a 5 in. to 18-1/4 in. variable lifting range to elevate your car, motorcycle or supply load in only 3-1/2 pumps! A protective foam bumper on the floor jack keeps your vehicle or materials from being damaged while lifting or lowering. With a knurled aluminum handle for a steady grip and a solid, welded steel construction, this rapid pump floor jack is built for comfort and heavy use.

http://www.harborfreight.com/merc...68048.html

•Super-tough precision welded construction with an industrial grade finish
•Industrial quality for professional mechanics and hardcore automotive enthusiasts
•Rapid Pump® exclusive dual parallel pump system lifts with far fewer pumps
•Universal joint release provides precise load control in any handle position
•Meets international quality standards
•Two piece knurled aluminum handle for a sure grip, equipped with foam bumper to prevent damage to vehicle finish
•Extra-wide steel casters for stability

60 Comments

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#16
Quote from buckyball View Post :
What's the total mass of your car? 3 ton equal to 6,613lb, this will give you an idea. Jacked up the 2007 Chevy Silverado 1500 front to do the both side brakes, no problem. Bought the jack last week $79.99, went back yesterday had to return a ramp, gave me the price difference for the new price, $69.99.

Don't forget to bleed the air before you use it!! And yes, this jack is HEAVY.
Why do people tell others to do something and than not explain how to do it, drives me insane. How do I "bleed the air" out of this? On another note, he's right this sucker weighs 70 pounds but when something can lift over 86 times it's own weight, well it's not the worst trade-off.
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#17
Quote from Eman. View Post :
Why do people tell others to do something and than not explain how to do it, drives me insane. How do I "bleed the air" out of this? On another note, he's right this sucker weighs 70 pounds but when something can lift over 86 times it's own weight, well it's not the worst trade-off.
http://www.lmgtfy.com/?q=How+to+B...r+Jack&l=1
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#18
Quote from Eman. View Post :
Why do people tell others to do something and than not explain how to do it, drives me insane. How do I "bleed the air" out of this? On another note, he's right this sucker weighs 70 pounds but when something can lift over 86 times it's own weight, well it's not the worst trade-off.
Dude, it was a friendly reminder about bleeding. Wasn't telling anyone here to do anything, topic here is about the price of jack not how to bleed. How about reading the manual, page 4 under the section "how to bleed"? Drives me insane when people don't read.
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#19
Quote from Eman. View Post :
Why do people tell others to do something and than not explain how to do it, drives me insane. How do I "bleed the air" out of this? On another note, he's right this sucker weighs 70 pounds but when something can lift over 86 times it's own weight, well it's not the worst trade-off.
Here is a video showing the bleeding procedure:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V_QfMBoQvnw
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#20
Quote from DlickSeals View Post :
Sorry to be a jack-noob, but would I be able to jack the entire rear of a car up with this, (Ford Explorer and a gf's Civic)? I have a jack now for brakes, but I'd love to be able to also rotate tires and maybe use for an oil change.
Not sure which Ford Explorer you have, but the 2013 has a ground clearance of about 7.6" (per Google search).
This 3Ton steel jack has a maximum lift height of 18.25".
My first assumption is yes it should lift your Ford properly to pull the wheels off.
To make this shorter than needed, the max lift height is what you'd be most interested in for the Ford Explorer

For your Honda Civic, you'll want to look at the minimum lift height - that's just in case the clearance for the Civic lift points is high enough to allow the jack access.

Do remember, if you need to jack from the front-center mount (ie. if available, to lift either both front wheels or both rear wheels off the ground at the same time) - you need to account how deep that jack point is, and whether or not the jack body will clear the car's body/bumper.

Quote from henny View Post :
Quote from cptbarkey View Post :
i highly reccomend this jack versus the aluminum one for safety, i've used it for the last 3 years and has never let me down. plus the handles make excellent leverage for tough bolts / nuts.
...
Because the similarly priced aluminum jack only has half the capacity. Never buy an aluminum jack unless you need to transport it often.
If for price - and in most applications, yes, the steel 3Ton floor jack should be a good choice.

However, if choosing the 3Ton floor jack soley because it has a higher capacity... the aluminum 1.5Ton jack is just fine for most street vehicles, not to forget it also depends on what kind of vehicles you do own, plan to own, and plan to work on/support.

1.5Ton = 3000lbs.

the 1.5Ton will work fine for sedans upto mid-sized SUV's and pickups.
Maybe not a SUV like the Hummer H2 (6000lbs), but a mid-size like a Nissan Pathfinder (4200lbs), Toyota 4Runner (4500lbs) should be find.
Remember, when jacking up a vehicle, the jack isn't supporting 100% of the vehicle - more likely no more than 65% (no data available to support - just based on experience).

Also depends on how often you plan to use the jack.
Obviously, the MORE you use it (ie. like a car shop) will wear the jack out faster - wear usually comes in the form of leaking fluid, or parts not rolling, etc.

Please understand that's just my opinion - in case there are folks out there that just want to occasionally jack up the front end of their Honda Accord to change the oil or something.

Also a safety reminder for everyone - a hydraulic jack should NEVER be the only thing holding the car up if you're getting underneath it. Get some jack stands and rest at least SOME of the car's weight on the jack stands if you're getting under the car.
As my personal safety precaution, I am mindful to never leave the car lifted on just the hydraulic jack for more than 2-3minutes. If it needs to stay lifted for longer, take the time to put jack stands underneath.
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#21
Quote from BUFdriver View Post :
Sorry. Didn't know that.
Fine print baby!!!! Although, my 20% HF coupon worked great at Lowes for the Campbell-Hausfield 5 framing nailer kit. Got it down to $77 after tax, woot woot!
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#22
Quote from buckyball View Post :
Dude, it was a friendly reminder about bleeding. Wasn't telling anyone here to do anything, topic here is about the price of jack not how to bleed. How about reading the manual, page 4 under the section "how to bleed"? Drives me insane when people don't read.
Quote from jamespayne View Post :
Here is a video showing the bleeding procedure:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V_QfMBoQvnw
That wasn't the point I was trying to get across, I'm aware that I could have google'd/youtube'd it. I'm just saying asking people not to forget to do something and not putting a link down for a follow up annoys me, but I appreciate all the replies, thanks.
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#23
Thanks OP - was looking for a good jack. Also got a pair of 3-Ton Jack Stands on sale for $14.99.

3-Ton Heavy Duty Jack Stands - $14.99 [harborfreight.com]

Will supplement with a pair for 4-Ton Cratfsman Jack Stands when they come on sale again.
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#24
I had this along with one of those $200 aluminum blue jacks. Seals went out in this one within a year, the aluminum jack 2 years. Both tossed in the trash.
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#25
Quote from super32 View Post :
Not sure which Ford Explorer you have, but the 2013 has a ground clearance of about 7.6" (per Google search).
This 3Ton steel jack has a maximum lift height of 18.25".
My first assumption is yes it should lift your Ford properly to pull the wheels off.
To make this shorter than needed, the max lift height is what you'd be most interested in for the Ford Explorer

For your Honda Civic, you'll want to look at the minimum lift height - that's just in case the clearance for the Civic lift points is high enough to allow the jack access.

Do remember, if you need to jack from the front-center mount (ie. if available, to lift either both front wheels or both rear wheels off the ground at the same time) - you need to account how deep that jack point is, and whether or not the jack body will clear the car's body/bumper.


If for price - and in most applications, yes, the steel 3Ton floor jack should be a good choice.

However, if choosing the 3Ton floor jack soley because it has a higher capacity... the aluminum 1.5Ton jack is just fine for most street vehicles, not to forget it also depends on what kind of vehicles you do own, plan to own, and plan to work on/support.

1.5Ton = 3000lbs.

the 1.5Ton will work fine for sedans upto mid-sized SUV's and pickups.
Maybe not a SUV like the Hummer H2 (6000lbs), but a mid-size like a Nissan Pathfinder (4200lbs), Toyota 4Runner (4500lbs) should be find.
Remember, when jacking up a vehicle, the jack isn't supporting 100% of the vehicle - more likely no more than 65% (no data available to support - just based on experience).

Also depends on how often you plan to use the jack.
Obviously, the MORE you use it (ie. like a car shop) will wear the jack out faster - wear usually comes in the form of leaking fluid, or parts not rolling, etc.

Please understand that's just my opinion - in case there are folks out there that just want to occasionally jack up the front end of their Honda Accord to change the oil or something.

Also a safety reminder for everyone - a hydraulic jack should NEVER be the only thing holding the car up if you're getting underneath it. Get some jack stands and rest at least SOME of the car's weight on the jack stands if you're getting under the car.
As my personal safety precaution, I am mindful to never leave the car lifted on just the hydraulic jack for more than 2-3minutes. If it needs to stay lifted for longer, take the time to put jack stands underneath.
I agree 100% with everything here. Been working on cars since I was a kid with the pops and brothers. Not a shop owner, but a at home car mechanic enthusiast I suppose.

I am a nut about my safety. I ALWAYS put jack stands under the car, a tire stopper on both back wheels, emergency brake on, and if I am pulling the tires off, I usually lay them underneath the car where I can still access whatever it is I am doing. Over doing it? Nope. My life isn't worth not over doing it.
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#26
Color me stupid if you want, but what's the point of laying the tires underneath the car? So you don't step over the tires? So the car will fall on the tires and save the brakes? What?
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#27
Quote from endlesscash View Post :
I had this along with one of those $200 aluminum blue jacks. Seals went out in this one within a year, the aluminum jack 2 years. Both tossed in the trash.
I've had my HF Blue 1.5 ton aluminum floor jack for 8 years now...still going strong. I work on all my cars quite a bit too. Waiting for a good deal on the "low clearance" steel jack since my new house has a 3 car garage and more room to maneuver in.
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#28
I have one of these but its a lower profile so it can get under my car. Can anyone tell me how to check the hydraulic oil levels? I cant get a socket on the thing that looks like a bleeder screw to take it off and check to see its level. I think its the way its sunk down in a concave spot that is making it so my sockets wont grip and not sure what could fit in that area and grip it to unscrew it.

Quote from TowHead View Post :
Color me stupid if you want, but what's the point of laying the tires underneath the car? So you don't step over the tires? So the car will fall on the tires and save the brakes? What?
So the tires save your skull if the car drops. EEK!
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#29
Quote from ShawnJones View Post :
I have one of these but its a lower profile so it can get under my car. Can anyone tell me how to check the hydraulic oil levels? I cant get a socket on the thing that looks like a bleeder screw to take it off and check to see its level. I think its the way its sunk down in a concave spot that is making it so my sockets wont grip and not sure what could fit in that area and grip it to unscrew it.


So the tires save your skull if the car drops. EEK!

rofl!! Yeah..I do this all the time...you never know..earthquakes happens..
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#30
"Overweight Item subject to $24.95 additional Freight Charge."

The small print...
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