Deal DetailsLast Edited by johnny_miller January 23, 2015 at 10:08 PM
I think it's this one - http://www.homedepot.c
------20% off Clearance Appliances------
058465774592 6.0 CU BEER <A> 199.04
6.0 CUBIC FOOT KEGERATOR
MAX REFUND VALUE $159.23
20% off Clearance Appliances -39.81
this will help maintain your beer and +1 or -1 degrees from your set temperature (imo the Johnson one is one of the best ones) Yes when it comes to beer pouring and foaming temperature is everything...YES 2-3 degrees makes a difference!!!
Fluctuating temps = nightmare (Previous poster's opinion; see below for opposing point of view.)
Note: I'd say the idea of frozen beer would be a serious exaggeration. First, the freezing temp of beer is lower than water (more like 27-30). Second, it would probably take all day at a borderline freezing temp to actually affect a whole keg of beer. And finally, a swing of 8-12 degrees would generally mean 4-6 degrees above and 4-6 degrees below the target temp. So the compressor might kick on around 45 degrees and kick off around 35 degrees if your target temp is 40. Sure, it may not be ideal, but still fine for most people looking at a casual keg cooler like this. (Update to note: after giving it more thought, I'd have to say that I believe the fluctuating temperature thing should be no problem at all. A full keg of beer takes about 20 minutes to warm up 1 degree and a full hour to cool down one degree. Given that the temperature fluctuation is going to happen fairly constantly as the unit kicks on and off, there probably wouldn't be enough time for the temp of the beer to change by more than a degree between cycles. Even a low keg has a large amount of metal, so won't change temp all that quickly. A compressor is less efficient the more it cycles on and off, so I'm actually of the opinion that making it kick on and off more frequently would be silly given its function and only make the unit less efficient and more expensive to operate.
The slight difference between industrial-grade CO2 and food-grade CO2 is the type of tests that are done to qualify CO2 as beverage or beer gas-grade compared to industrial-grade. Currently, the FDA's requirement for food-grade CO2 a 99.90% purity rating. The other .09% is made up of impurities such as hydrocarbons or nitrogen. Industrial grade CO2 is 99% pure CO2, also containing impurities such as hydrocarbons or nitrogen.
However, the nature of those impurities extremely important. They go on to suggest:
One impurity that all homebrewers should be aware of is benzene. Benzene is a no-no for homebrewers. If the CO2 that you are purchasing has high benzene levels, it will leave you and fellow drinkers with terrible headaches. When I say high levels, we are not talking about much. Benzene is usually an impurity that is referred to in PPB. The benzene level should be around 20 PPB.
So when bying CO2 make sure u ask if it is food grade and go to a reputable store cause of course the smaller places will most likley tell u YES just to sell it.
CDC about Benzene: http://www.bt.cdc.gov/agent/benze.../facts.asp
To convert to corny:
Hope this helps people who are as clueless as I was when I started.