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safe for home

ElDorito 7,478 1,374 August 5, 2015 at 06:32 AM More BJs Wholesale Deals
Someone offered to purchase my wife and I a safe for our home... I know nothing about safes and was wondering if this was a good one to purchase: http://www.bjs.com/sentrysafe-2-c...780?dimId=

Thank you for the feedback!

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#2
Quote from ElDorito View Post :
Someone offered to purchase my wife and I a safe for our home... I know nothing about safes and was wondering if this was a good one to purchase: http://www.bjs.com/sentrysafe-2-c...780?dimId=

Thank you for the feedback!
Seems decent enough. I prefer traditional dial locks over digital. Less chance for malfunction. Look into an EvaDry reusable moisture absorber for the interior as well.
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Quote from ElDorito View Post :
Someone offered to purchase my wife and I a safe for our home... I know nothing about safes and was wondering if this was a good one to purchase: http://www.bjs.com/sentrysafe-2-c...780?dimId=

Thank you for the feedback!
What will you be storing in the safe? Do you need fire and water protection, or is it just to lock things up? How far from the fire department do you live? Will the safe be located in a basement?

From purely a size standpoint, it's hard to beat the cost of a gun safe. If you need fire and/or water protection though, something like you linked above may be better as it offers better protection. Gun safes typically offer 30 minutes of fire protection (at ~1400 F) and no water protection (the moderately priced ones, at least), while the safe you linked offers 1 hour of fire (at 1700 F) and 24 hours of water (8") protection. How much protection you need depends on how long it takes the FD to respond, how much water you might expect to accumulate around the safe as the FD is putting out a fire (basements tend to hold water, while 2nd story closets tend not to), etc.
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Quote from mmathis View Post :
What will you be storing in the safe? Do you need fire and water protection, or is it just to lock things up? How far from the fire department do you live? Will the safe be located in a basement?

From purely a size standpoint, it's hard to beat the cost of a gun safe. If you need fire and/or water protection though, something like you linked above may be better as it offers better protection. Gun safes typically offer 30 minutes of fire protection (at ~1400 F) and no water protection (the moderately priced ones, at least), while the safe you linked offers 1 hour of fire (at 1700 F) and 24 hours of water (8") protection. How much protection you need depends on how long it takes the FD to respond, how much water you might expect to accumulate around the safe as the FD is putting out a fire (basements tend to hold water, while 2nd story closets tend not to), etc.
basement.. couple of watches, passports, birth certificates, and a few portable hard drives with my pics on it.... fire dept is less than 5 minutes away
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depends on what you are storing for size. I had to move up to a gun safe from a sentry personal safe a few years ago.
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Quote from ElDorito View Post :
basement.. couple of watches, passports, birth certificates, and a few portable hard drives with my pics on it.... fire dept is less than 5 minutes away
All of that sounds like it would be better off in a deposit box aside from an additional HDD backup.

Make sure that the safe has good points to anchor to. People may not be able to steal from inside the safe but it may not work well if they simply drag it away.
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#7
$25 a year bank vault
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Quote from Jabbit View Post :
Seems decent enough. I prefer traditional dial locks over digital. Less chance for malfunction. Look into an EvaDry reusable moisture absorber for the interior as well.
This is excellent advice and exactly what I was going to suggest.

I've been the biometrics route and much prefer the traditional combination dial over the high-tech route for the very reason Jabbit mentions. Too many instances of being locked out when I needed to get in. I got a new safe with a traditional combination dial and it works every single time.

As to keeping moisture down in the safe, I save the silica gel packs that come in shoes, electronics, etc. and put those in the safe. Once I started doing that, the moisture level has gone way down and is at a safe level now.

Concerning bolting it down, you can certainly do that. But, even more importantly to me is hiding the safe so that it's not even found or known of (by people who visit or stay overnight) in the first place. Whether you bolt it down or not, consider hiding the safe using some creative means.
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One possibility is the Fort Knox Pistol Box:
http://www.amazon.com/Fort-Knox-F...B004H6MKI8

It is a little small, and it is designed for guns, but it has some advantages:
1) The lock mechanism is fully mechanical. No battery to wear out, No plastic cover to pop off.
2) It uses a combination. Keys can be found (by kids, for example) and this compromises security a lot.
3) Super thick steel. It is a real safe. The hinge mechanism is completely encased in thick steel, not exposed. The locking mechanism is a huge hunk of steel, not a thin metal latch. Prying this safe open is exceptionally difficult. You'd probably need to use a grinder to cut through the steel.
4) Fast access. it's made to store a pistol, after all.

The downside is that it's designed to secure a firearm. And it has room for more. But it's not designed to be waterproof (so don't keep it in your basement on the floor), and I don't think it's fireproof. Fort Knox has other safes, including enormous, closet-sized monstrosities like a bank would use.

I was at a sporting goods store with my son, and there was a $999 gun safe. A huge thing, like a bank vault. It had an electronic combination lock. I told my son that it's easy to pop those things off and get into the safe. So he pulled on the combination mechanism, and it came right off in the store! It was made of plastic, and there was a ribbon cable attaching to the interior of the safe. A crook who learns how these locks work could easily pop that off and send the unlock code over the ribbon cable.
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Quote from Rebound View Post :
I was at a sporting goods store with my son, and there was a $999 gun safe. A huge thing, like a bank vault. It had an electronic combination lock. I told my son that it's easy to pop those things off and get into the safe. So he pulled on the combination mechanism, and it came right off in the store! It was made of plastic, and there was a ribbon cable attaching to the interior of the safe. A crook who learns how these locks work could easily pop that off and send the unlock code over the ribbon cable.
High quality safes generally aren't found at retail stores. You're typical Sentry brand safe affords some theft protection if it's bolted down and some fire and water protection. If you're really worried about it, you can keep hard drives and important papers in dry bags used for camping/boating inside the safe (although they could melt in a fire causing problems). Your lower end safes found at retail stores with names like brinks on them are a bad joke. Gun safes vary widely in the quality of construction. The lock boxes they sell really don't deter theft at all, but may afford fire and water protection.
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Last edited by jkee August 12, 2015 at 02:59 PM
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No electronics. Buried in the floor is best for fire protection.
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That is a great safe for a decoy. Look to hidden parts of your house to embed a safe in like if you have steeped roofs with a dead space behind the wall because it was too low to make an 8ft ceiling. It would pay to break that section open, install a safe in the area, then seal it up with access from behind a closet or some other less than obvious point of entry. Then put your Sentry safe with some cheap things in it as a decoy. All a safe really does it tell the thief where the valuables are stored. As others have said, get a gun safe. They are larger and better designed. Stay away from electronic locks I 2nd that.
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#13
Quote from dealgate View Post :
That is a great safe for a decoy. Look to hidden parts of your house to embed a safe in like if you have steeped roofs with a dead space behind the wall because it was too low to make an 8ft ceiling. It would pay to break that section open, install a safe in the area, then seal it up with access from behind a closet or some other less than obvious point of entry. Then put your Sentry safe with some cheap things in it as a decoy. All a safe really does it tell the thief where the valuables are stored. As others have said, get a gun safe. They are larger and better designed. Stay away from electronic locks I 2nd that.
put the decoy safe in the master bedroom closet semi hidden and throw some random shit in it and some keys that dont go to anything anymore.
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