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WWYD: used car shopping

damsel. 4,956 374 October 19, 2015 at 09:26 AM
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I am used car shopping. I am looking to get a Subaru Legacy. I have two that I am looking at, both cost the same. One is a 2012 with 35k miles and the other is a 2013 with 47k miles, both listed at $15.9k. Feautres are the same, except the 2013 has a touchscreen for the radio. if I go with the 2013, I can save a quarter percent on the interest on the loan since it qualifies as a new car.

Also, I obviously don't want to pay full asking. What's the best way to negotiate the price down?

Thanks. šŸ˜Š

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#2
Is either one still under factory warranty? The 2012 is probably close due to years and the 2013 close due to miles. 6 of one really. I'd start negotiating at blue book minus 25% and work your way up. I would not pay more than 10% back from kbb. 1/4% does nothing I would not consider this.
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E finita la cuccagna

Liberals want you to think like them, Conservatives just want you to think!
#3
What model? Remember that a base 2016 legacy can be had for 21.6 or less, even lower for a 2015 . What is the interest rate? Subaru offers 1.9 on the 2016 and 1.49 on the 2015. You may be better off with a new car.
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#4
i'd cede to lower miles. do you drive a lot?
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#5
at 16k it might be better buying new at 21k

http://www.caranddriver.com/subaru/legacy

by the way the new suberu 2015 and 2016 is being recalled due to transmission leakage
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Last edited by bargeit October 21, 2015 at 07:11 PM
#6
I wish you goodluck dude. Iā€™m not good in negotiating too.
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#7
If you're buying from a dealer and you've already agreed on a price, watch out for fees they're going to tuck in or you'll get surprised at the final amount. One example is the doc fees; if you have a trade in, depending on your state, sales tax is computed after subtracting the trade in amount. I'm currently looking at Honda Fit and prefer a certified with one previous owner with less than 40K miles. I've done my homework first by checking Consumer's Reports, Edmunds, Carfax history of vehicle, etc. I'm also aware of MSRP of brand new ones so that I can tell salesman if their quote is way, way overprice. I have no qualms walking out if the salesman flip flops on what he's telling me.

DH and I dread car shopping but I need to get one and this is the perfect time to buy since most dealers have to dispose lots of cars to give way to 2016 models.
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#8
Quote from damsel. View Post :
I am used car shopping. I am looking to get a Subaru Legacy. I have two that I am looking at, both cost the same. One is a 2012 with 35k miles and the other is a 2013 with 47k miles, both listed at $15.9k. Feautres are the same, except the 2013 has a touchscreen for the radio. if I go with the 2013, I can save a quarter percent on the interest on the loan since it qualifies as a new car.

Also, I obviously don't want to pay full asking. What's the best way to negotiate the price down?

Thanks. ?
I'm not so sure they're identical. What trim/engine are they?
Quote :
The 2013 Subaru Legacy features a variety of updates this year, including a restyled front end, a more powerful and efficient four-cylinder engine, an improved continuously variable transmission (CVT), revised suspension tuning and an available collision avoidance system. Base models now feature standard Bluetooth.
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#9
Quote from mamabear209 View Post :
If you're buying from a dealer and you've already agreed on a price, watch out for fees they're going to tuck in or you'll get surprised at the final amount. One example is the doc fees; if you have a trade in, depending on your state, sales tax is computed after subtracting the trade in amount. I'm currently looking at Honda Fit and prefer a certified with one previous owner with less than 40K miles. I've done my homework first by checking Consumer's Reports, Edmunds, Carfax history of vehicle, etc. I'm also aware of MSRP of brand new ones so that I can tell salesman if their quote is way, way overprice. I have no qualms walking out if the salesman flip flops on what he's telling me.

DH and I dread car shopping but I need to get one and this is the perfect time to buy since most dealers have to dispose lots of cars to give way to 2016 models.

I usually require final OTD pricing including an itemization - that way all dealers are talking apples.

BTW you know a shady dealer when they won't itemize.... had this happen with DW's car over a year ago. Talked (emailed) a dealer over a week and told them I would come and get the car if they'd just CONFIRM the final price and itemization over email - all of a sudden they disappeared even after numerous emails to 3 or 4 people I'd been talking with there - I guess they just didn't want the real numbers recorded.

Also regarding trade in - negotiate the car price FIRST then discuss trade in. Like you here in CT the trade in is essentially treated as a discount meaning you save on sales tax, so in the end it IS all just a number, but it also gives you some leverage - you can say dealer X is giving me more $$ for the trade in.... etc etc.
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