Online Appliance and HVACR help for SD members

Quote from komondor : So I have always read that you should adjust your thermostat higher during the day and then have it cool before you come home to save energy, here is my issue, my AC unit which is sized properly along with the furnace can cool my house about 1 degree per hour so if I wanted my house to be 70 when I came home I would need to have it set for 74 when I was away then set to 70 4 hours before I came home. To me it just makes sense to leave it at 70 and let the unit run.

how well does your place keep the cool. if you turn it off how long before it goes up 2-3 degrees. i keep mine on 78 and use a fan. 1 degree an hour seems too long

It will start to get warm at about 9AM by 10 it is probably up 4 degrees I am in Colorado and the sun is pretty strong i have new windows and they help a lot but the house still heats up.

Quote from komondor : It will start to get warm at about 9AM by 10 it is probably up 4 degrees I am in Colorado and the sun is pretty strong i have new windows and they help a lot but the house still heats up.

not much to do in the window factor other than to upsize and add more vents. closed blinds,or curtains may help

I did not think there was much to do I installed a 500CFM booster fan it seems to help a little but yesterday was not the hottest day, one odd thing I found is that the duct does go up an outside wall and using my non contact thermometer it shows the wall is 62 degrees vs 70+ for the wall where the duct is not i am not sure if it is just normal bleed or maybe an air leek, I had a heck of a time finding which duct went upstairs and working in the crawlspace was just dirty.

Furnace is as large as you can go in a home 150k BTU, it heats fine new 4 ton AC unit, I keep the blinds closed just a lot of air in the house living room is 2 stories and bedroom has a cathedral ceiling.

If the booster fan does work I will probably be buying 4 more if I can find all the ducts to the upstairs, shutting off lower ducts cuts off too much air and the unit freezes up so I think this will be the best way to solve a poor duct problem.

If anyone is interested I purchased a 2 speed booster fan from Mc Master Carr

http://www.mcmaster.com/#duct-boo...ns/=imqgkn 160\300cfm

Quote from komondor : If anyone is interested I purchased a 2 speed booster fan from Mc Master Carr http://www.mcmaster.com/#duct-booster-fans/=imqgkn 160\300cfm

what do you use to turn the booster fans on and off?


I have a similiar problem and have attempted to install dampers on the main trunk to attempt to balance/direct the existing airflow.

You can buy a airflow/temp sensor but I just let it run, right now I can hear some white noise will see how it is in the long run.

You can buy something like this
http://www.amazon.com/Tjernlund-A...ure+switch

If I do go with a bunch of them I will probably buy one pressure switch to turn them all on and off

using dampers is just not a good solution in my opinion as in my case the unit will freeze and I am really not sure how much difference it is than just shutting off ducts?

Quote from stufine : it could be the water inlet valve. Maybe use a voltmeter back at the vale to see if you get juice when pushing the water lever. http://www.partselect.com/PS34976...RG25FKSS15 example

Thanks for the info. I'll need to get a voltmeter from a friend to test it.

Quote from komondor : You can buy a airflow/temp sensor but I just let it run, right now I can hear some white noise will see how it is in the long run. You can buy something like this http://www.amazon.com/Tjernlund-A...ure+switch If I do go with a bunch of them I will probably buy one pressure switch to turn them all on and off using dampers is just not a good solution in my opinion as in my case the unit will freeze and I am really not sure how much difference it is than just shutting off ducts?

Without getting the system balanced by a pro, you won't know if it's operating properly. I can restrict the hell out of mine without getting it to freeze up. maybe the fan speed isn't on the high setting. dirty A-coil? just sounds like it's starving for air. Any summer/winter levers not turned?

my ac and furnace are new







my ac and furnace are new I added and enlarged my return ducts to make sure I added a vent on the return plenum in the basement fan runnung on high just crappy ducting upstairs it makes a 90 off the main trunk then another 90 then another 90 to make 180 then 90 up the outside wall another 90 to go under the floor and finally a 90 to come up from the floor about a 45' run in 6" duct not counting elbows

Quote from komondor : my ac and furnace are new I added and enlarged my return ducts to make sure I added a vent on the return plenum in the basement fan runnung on high just crappy ducting upstairs it makes a 90 off the main trunk then another 90 then another 90 to make 180 then 90 up the outside wall another 90 to go under the floor and finally a 90 to come up from the floor about a 45' run in 6" duct not counting elbows

I understand that the unit is new, but that doesn't mean the airflow was balanced properly after it was installed. I've seen lots of hvac installations, and none of them had any balancing done on them. Most "this one room is too hot" problems can be solved by doing some airflow balancing.

Whirlpool washing machine model #CA2762XYW0 is leaking water when filling the tub.

The tub is leaning forward.

Which part caused the probel?

Thanks

Quote from bestdeal : Whirlpool washing machine model #CA2762XYW0 is leaking water when filling the tub. The tub is leaning forward. Which part caused the problem?

Always unplug the electricity when working on the washer because there's a lot of exposed high voltage in there.

If it leaks only during filling but quits leaking once the tub is filled, look at the hose and fittings that go between the fill valve and tub.

If it leaks any time there's water in the tub, look at the bottom shaft seal and drain plumbing, including the very short, fat hose that attaches at the bottom of the tub.

YouTube has some videos about repairing those direct-drive Whirlpool top loaders. Notice how the whole cabinet is removed to gain access. Do NOT pry between what seems like the top of the cabinet and the bottom because those two pieces do not separate; you instead have to remove the whole cabinet by first removing the control console on top and prying a couple of clips there: cabinet removal [youtube.com]

Quote from bestdeal : Whirlpool washing machine model #CA2762XYW0 is leaking water when filling the tub. The tub is leaning forward. Which part caused the probel? Thanks

I'm not an appliance guru but I did get a good nights sleep.
looking at the diag. I'll go with balance ring at top or with the base.
The base looks to be a welded tripod with springs on top holding the bottom of the tub.
either a spring broke or one of the legs on base broke.

Thanks Larrymoencurly & Stufine, one of the string in the bottom escaped from a hole, I put it back in, now it works like before.