Online Appliance and HVACR help for SD members

Partial frost on a evaporator coil could mean that something funky is going on with your compressor. Maybe a restriction in the lines.

error:
suds
f35
f20

kenmore front load
model 110.47781701
serial CSW2608122

today started getting these errors, I unplugged & tried again to no avail. about 1.5 year old. I checked water hose; there apparently is proper water flow & no kinks in hose.

Quote from Snoozer : error: suds f35 f20 kenmore front load model 110.47781701 serial CSW2608122 today started getting these errors, I unplugged & tried again to no avail. about 1.5 year old. I checked water hose; there apparently is proper water flow & no kinks in hose.

I had a problem similar to yours, although my first generation machine's a lot older than yours. There are three screws on the front bottom panel. Remove them. You'll see the pump in the center of the bottom plate. Put lots (no, actually more than lots) of towels and stuff under the knob and unscrew it. You'll probably find a clog in there along with lots of cruddy water. Clean everything out, and then look into the hoses with a flashlight to make sure they're open. Replace parts as you found them. Then check the drain hose where it comes out of the back to insure it's not kinked or something like that. Then, if you can, run a cycle without soap just to clear the machine. I though we'd have to replace some sensor part, but doing this clean-out fixed the suds and code issue. I now perform this stinky ritual annually.

Almost forgot, peel back the door gasket at it's lowest point and make sure there's nothing blocking the drain holes. You'll understand description when you look.

Quote from Snoozer : error: suds f35 f20 kenmore front load model 110.47781701 serial CSW2608122 today started getting these errors, I unplugged & tried again to no avail. about 1.5 year old. I checked water hose; there apparently is proper water flow & no kinks in hose.

sud

Quote : SUDS LOCK (Overdose of Detergent detected during the Wash Cycle) The motor control unit senses a suds lock condition by analyzing the current draw on the drive motor. If "Sud" is displayed a potential suds lock is detected. This may signify a bad pump, an extra heavy load, excessive detergent, or excessive suds.

f35

Quote : F35 ANALOG PRESSURE SENSOR FAILURE If this failure is displayed, there is any malfunction of the steamer component detected by the Steamer Electronic Board.

f20

Quote : NO WATER DETECTED ENTERING MACHINE OR PRESSURE SWITCH TRIP NOT DETECTED. The pressure switch is not tripped after 6 minutes.

thank you for your replies, bikereric & oyNot. I will try l8r 2n8 when I get home & post results!

Quote from oynot : I had a problem similar to yours, although my first generation machine's a lot older than yours. There are three screws on the front bottom panel. Remove them. You'll see the pump in the center of the bottom plate. Put lots (no, actually more than lots) of towels and stuff under the knob and unscrew it. You'll probably find a clog in there along with lots of cruddy water. Clean everything out, and then look into the hoses with a flashlight to make sure they're open. Replace parts as you found them. Then check the drain hose where it comes out of the back to insure it's not kinked or something like that. Then, if you can, run a cycle without soap just to clear the machine. I though we'd have to replace some sensor part, but doing this clean-out fixed the suds and code issue. I now perform this stinky ritual annually. Almost forgot, peel back the door gasket at it's lowest point and make sure there's nothing blocking the drain holes. You'll understand description when you look.

I opened it. there was nothing blocking it. I was clear water mostly. the three drain holes under the door gasket are clear. I did notice the detergent feeder was really full of mildew. i cleaned it all out, it did not chage anything. the "clean washer" cycle works its way through the entire process. Anything else I can try?

Quote from Snoozer : I opened it. there was nothing blocking it. I was clear water mostly. the three drain holes under the door gasket are clear. I did notice the detergent feeder was really full of mildew. i cleaned it all out, it did not chage anything. the "clean washer" cycle works its way through the entire process. Anything else I can try?

Would have been good if you uncovered something in the drain, that would have beeb an easy fix, but since that didn't happen you've got to dig deeper and BE addressed the next step(s) earlier.

Eric --

I found my way to your appliance thread. My top-loading washing machine is about 10 years old.

The Problem: I had to fiddle quite a bit (more than usual) to get the last cycle to start. Sometimes I accidently go past the correct starting point on the dial. This time it filled up with water; but when the cycle came to the part when the water was supposed to empty, it just stopped and nothing more happened. I tried moving the dial to various cycles, but it did not help.

The Brand Name: Whirlpool "Ultimate Care II Heavy Duty Super Capacity Plus" machine with 9 cycles and a 2-speed motor.

The Model: The manufacturer's tag inside shows the model as: LSQ9264HQ0 (or O, not sure). It's a Type 111 machine.

My appliance know-how level: No, I am not handy really with these things and have never had to get a washing machine fixed before.

Curious Question: How can serial numbers help? Are you able to look up the owners?

P.P.S. Forgot to add that it's an electric washing machine.

I've got financial issues and am scared to death of getting into the hands of a greedy repairman or repair company. Any help you would provide would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks, It's wonderful of you to share your expertise.

Shirley

I have a Hartell Condensate Pump PAB-1 that is used to pump out water from the Carrier Central Air Condition from basement to outside ground level. The pump will turn on but will not pump out any water. My friend take a look at it and concluded that it is broken and I should purchase a new one. Is there any model that you would recommend. I am not handy but my friend's father said he will install the new one for me if I purchase one. Thanks.

I'm getting desperate with that Whirlpool EB21DK bottom freezer 21CF 1994 refrigerator with the cold freezer and the warm refrigerator, but think I'm making progress.

Took it apart, more this time. Coils behind the back freezer panel had some, not a lot of frost on them. I removed the frost with a hairdryer. Then I tried to discern that the blower that's in the back center upper part of the freezer was doing it's thing. There's a piddling amount of air coming through the refrigerator vent when it's set to coldest. I took apart the thermostat area and ran the defrost cycle three times. And I took the panel off the bottom of the refrigerator and found the vent that leads to the freezer. There's no baffle, it's just an open duct.

Questions:
(1) The cold/warm dial on the refrigerator near the thermostat has a baffle that can be seen through the refrigerator vent. When set to warm, it's open all the way, I can see it close as the dial is turned counterclockwise to cold. Is that backwards? Have I had the dial set to coldest all this time when actually it was warmest? Should the vent be open all the way for coldest? It has the most airflow that way.

(2) During the defrost cycle, the part that's above the freezer and under the panel I removed to discover the return duct... the bottom panel on the refrigerator. That area seemed to get warm during the defrost cycle and I'm letting it defrost until the top of the freezer is warm to the touch. It's on the third defrost cycle right now, I've aimed a room heater into the freezer, and the ceiling of the freezer is dripping into the freezer area. What's in that space?

(3) My kilawatt thing show the refrigerator is drawing 233 watts after having a chance to run awhile and in a normal cycle (not defrost), and the lightbulb increases by it 40 when the door is opened. That sounds mightly low. Is it significant?

Thanks much.

Im about to pull the 2 sink countertop (1 sink on each side of 80" vanity) in my bathroom and tile a new top...I'd like to just drop in 1 sink in the middle.... what am I looking at with the plumbing ?

can i just run the flexible water supplies from one of the supplies to the new middle sink and cut some longer PVC for the drain ? that it ? anything to that ?

just cap the other drain and leave the cut off valves off on the unsed supply ? against code ?

Quote from OP : Im about to pull the 2 sink countertop (1 sink on each side of 80" vanity) in my bathroom and tile a new top...I'd like to just drop in 1 sink in the middle.... what am I looking at with the plumbing ? can i just run the flexible water supplies from one of the supplies to the new middle sink and cut some longer PVC for the drain ? that it ? anything to that ? just cap the other drain and leave the cut off valves off on the unsed supply ? against code ?

Cap off any unused pipes, check the drain pipe for pitch and a use proper trap and you're good to go.

There's a handy dandy home repair thread, too.

Quote from shirleyuguest : Eric -- I found my way to your appliance thread. My top-loading washing machine is about 10 years old. The Problem: I had to fiddle quite a bit (more than usual) to get the last cycle to start. Sometimes I accidently go past the correct starting point on the dial. This time it filled up with water; but when the cycle came to the part when the water was supposed to empty, it just stopped and nothing more happened. I tried moving the dial to various cycles, but it did not help. The Brand Name: Whirlpool "Ultimate Care II Heavy Duty Super Capacity Plus" machine with 9 cycles and a 2-speed motor. The Model: The manufacturer's tag inside shows the model as: LSQ9264HQ0 (or O, not sure). It's a Type 111 machine. My appliance know-how level: No, I am not handy really with these things and have never had to get a washing machine fixed before. Curious Question: How can serial numbers help? Are you able to look up the owners? P.P.S. Forgot to add that it's an electric washing machine. I've got financial issues and am scared to death of getting into the hands of a greedy repairman or repair company. Any help you would provide would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, It's wonderful of you to share your expertise. Shirley

It sounds like a lid switch
P/N: 3949247 [pcappliancerepair.com]

How to change the switch [youtube.com]

Quote from Adipose : I have a Hartell Condensate Pump PAB-1 that is used to pump out water from the Carrier Central Air Condition from basement to outside ground level. The pump will turn on but will not pump out any water. My friend take a look at it and concluded that it is broken and I should purchase a new one. Is there any model that you would recommend. I am not handy but my friend's father said he will install the new one for me if I purchase one. Thanks.

pretty much any brand will do.

Quote from jogalot : I'm getting desperate with that Whirlpool EB21DK bottom freezer 21CF 1994 refrigerator with the cold freezer and the warm refrigerator, but think I'm making progress. Took it apart, more this time. Coils behind the back freezer panel had some, not a lot of frost on them. I removed the frost with a hairdryer. Then I tried to discern that the blower that's in the back center upper part of the freezer was doing it's thing. There's a piddling amount of air coming through the refrigerator vent when it's set to coldest. I took apart the thermostat area and ran the defrost cycle three times. And I took the panel off the bottom of the refrigerator and found the vent that leads to the freezer. There's no baffle, it's just an open duct. Questions: (1) The cold/warm dial on the refrigerator near the thermostat has a baffle that can be seen through the refrigerator vent. When set to warm, it's open all the way, I can see it close as the dial is turned counterclockwise to cold. Is that backwards? Have I had the dial set to coldest all this time when actually it was warmest? Should the vent be open all the way for coldest? It has the most airflow that way. (2) During the defrost cycle, the part that's above the freezer and under the panel I removed to discover the return duct... the bottom panel on the refrigerator. That area seemed to get warm during the defrost cycle and I'm letting it defrost until the top of the freezer is warm to the touch. It's on the third defrost cycle right now, I've aimed a room heater into the freezer, and the ceiling of the freezer is dripping into the freezer area. What's in that space? (3) My kilawatt thing show the refrigerator is drawing 233 watts after having a chance to run awhile and in a normal cycle (not defrost), and the lightbulb increases by it 40 when the door is opened. That sounds mightly low. Is it significant? Thanks much.

The vent is set properly to work
give me a pic of the controls plz

I'm wondering if the mullion between the fridge and frzr was frozen up?

You got three defrost cycles out of the unit in a row?


Is the fan motor (in the freezer)running fast? or just going round slowly
you should be able to feel the air move and hear it too.

Quote from TBurr : Cap off any unused pipes, check the drain pipe for pitch and a use proper trap and you're good to go. There's a handy dandy home repair thread, too.