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#46
07-09-2010, 08:39 AM
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[QUOTE=BikerEric;30943238]pretty much any brand will do.
Thank you. |
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Multi-Quote| 07-09-2010, 08:39 AM | |
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#47
07-09-2010, 06:22 PM
I would expect to pay about $130 ish for the repair Are you a member of Angie's List? winner of the 2007 2008 AND 2009 Angie's List Super Service Award © ~~ in the top 5 % of all appliance servicers nationwide Posted by Thare187 - "I'm the loser? There is a coupon here for a free haircut and some diet deals. Good luck!" sent in a rep comment Posted by proro1974 - i'm smarter than you. what do you want me to do about that?.... Don't trust me, check with TakeTheActive "It is said , That some suffer from insanity. I, however, choose to enjoy it!" |
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#48
07-10-2010, 03:31 AM
No, I'm not a member of Angie's list. Is that a way to be more sure of repairmen? I was quoted $130 by a local appliance repair to come out and replace the lid switch. Others had quoted $90 just to come out without rolling that into the total cost, so I kept looking and found this repair shop. Thanks! Shirley |
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#49
07-10-2010, 03:35 AM
Mullion area (horizontal part between freezer and refrigerator) was frozen, for sure. I aimed a space heater into the freezer and the mullion was cold to the touch for a very long time. Lots of water dripped from the small openings in the freezer ceiling that receive the gutter like removable trim strip by the door. I ran the defrost cycle in the refrigerator three times manually while using a hair dryer and then a space heater to "defrost" the box fully. The timer appears to work as it should. Fan in freezer blowing air into the refrigerator seems to be working fine, but not much air is actually coming from the refrigerator vent. I think the airflow is the same as always, but don't know for sure. My thaw efforts helped slightly. The freezer still maintains a good temp and the fridge is at 47. |
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#50
07-10-2010, 06:54 AM
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#51
07-10-2010, 06:43 PM
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Aargh! The refrigerator is getting warm again. Came home and it was reading 54. Darn thing. I really gotta do something about this ASAP.
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#52
07-11-2010, 11:32 AM
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#53
07-12-2010, 09:25 AM
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Repped for replying to my ?s re: my Whirlpool washing machine!
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#54
07-12-2010, 01:48 PM
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I have an Amana side by side refrig./ freezer model# sxd26vw. w/ ice maker. I got it used so I don't have the manual. My question is- Is the ice maker light supposed to be on all the time? (it does turn off when I open the freezer door and the freezer light goes on). If not where might I get a manual to trouble shoot
SOLVED there was a switch under the plastic bezel around ice dispenser Last edited by dollarbill; 07-20-2010 at 12:51 AM.. |
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#55
07-12-2010, 06:45 PM
unscrew the bulb for now and I;ll see if I can find a manual |
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#56
07-12-2010, 07:13 PM
thanx 4 ur help. i was running many clean washer cycles, rinse & drain cycles...whatever i could get to run a least for a bit b4 it errored out. then after may times i checked the drain again and found a small sock tie pictured in attachment. i guess it eventually got pushed through. i ran so far one regular full cycle and on the 2nd now. lets hope that was all thanx & repped! 
Socks Tie.jpg
328.1 KB / 84 views Last edited by Snoozer; 07-12-2010 at 07:16 PM.. |
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#57
07-13-2010, 03:54 AM
Using a killowatt device, I saw that the defrost cycle was drawing some 600 watts for a few minutes, then it shut off and drew nothing for maybe 12 minutes until the refrigerator cycle came on. Could this simply be a bad bimetallic switch? I removed it and placed it in a cup of ice water and it hasn't showed any continuity. What would you suggest I do next? It was less than a week since doing a full defrost and this is what I had:   For larger image: http://i29.tinypic.com/jgnkvc.jpg http://i30.tinypic.com/ipsb5e.jpg Thanks, BE Last edited by jogalot; 07-16-2010 at 07:04 AM.. Reason: added photos |
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#58
07-16-2010, 02:58 PM
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I have a general question. I just moved into a new house and the AC unit is about 15 years old. I dont know when the last time it was serviced. Its been pretty hot here recently and I am wondering what temp the air should be that is coming out of my vents? It seems to be not as cold as it should but I would like to avoid a service call if its in the "Normal" range for a unit of that age. Any help here is appreciated.
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#59
07-16-2010, 05:38 PM
I'm going to guess bimetal and/or timer I'd go with both
You need to measure the air temp into the air handler and then the air temp out you should have about 20 to 25 degrees difference ideally the interior ambient temp will be about 20 degrees cooler then outside ambient |
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#60
07-17-2010, 04:28 AM
I was monitoring it with a killowatt device to tell when the heater kicked in. When the bimetal caused the heater to turn off, and before the timer caused the compressor to start again, I unplugged the box and removed the rear freezer panel. With an infrared thermometer we saw the bimetal was around 50 degrees. There was still some frost present on the coil, top center area. Is that a normal cycle? Was thinking if the bimetal was mounted somewhere else, ie not on the curved side of the highest coil and in a direct path of the heater, that the defrost cycle would last longer. Even though it won't clip on, should I place it on the top center of the coil, or where's the most effective place to mount it? I'd still like to replace the bimetal only because the clip doesn't appear secure. The refrigerator's service sheet calls for a 2183072 which is listed as being interchangeable with 4387503, 2149641, 2149643, 2163894, 2172694, 2182380, 2221677, 4343917, 4387503 and the one the local store has which is 4387490. Is one preferable? Thanks for leading me in the right direction. Would like to replace the bimetal today and look forward to your response. Last edited by jogalot; 07-17-2010 at 07:07 AM.. |
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