Online Appliance and HVACR help for SD members

Quote from jogalot : I found the bimetal unclipped from the freezer line, and after securing it to the coil waited several hours for a defrost cycle to take place. I was monitoring it with a killowatt device to tell when the heater kicked in. When the bimetal caused the heater to turn off, and before the timer caused the compressor to start again, I unplugged the box and removed the rear freezer panel. With an infrared thermometer we saw the bimetal was around 50 degrees. There was still some frost present on the coil, top center area. Is that a normal cycle? Was thinking if the bimetal was mounted somewhere else, ie not on the curved side of the highest coil and in a direct path of the heater, that the defrost cycle would last longer. Even though it won't clip on, should I place it on the top center of the coil, or where's the most effective place to mount it? I'd still like to replace the bimetal only because the clip doesn't appear secure. The refrigerator's service sheet calls for a 2183072 which is listed as being interchangeable with 4387503, 2149641, 2149643, 2163894, 2172694, 2182380, 2221677, 4343917, 4387503 and the one the local store has which is 4387490. Is one preferable? Thanks for leading me in the right direction. Would like to replace the bimetal today and look forward to your response.

First you should get the proper bimetal! As long as the specs say it is interchangeable that is ok

the bimetal typically clips to the aluminum coil at the top where the copper and aluminum meet ( on the aluminum though) anywhere else is going to give wrong defrosts.

You may want to try the original bimetal and clip it in the right place (see above) before buying anything.

I've mounted it there (just after the bend, on the aluminum before the copper and with the switch part facing the back left corner of the box) and will keep fingers crossed. I'll grab a new bimetal Monday, but in the meantime the old one seems to be trying -- hopefully now that' it's in the right place even properly.

It's on the right track... have correct temperatures and it's mostly defrosting on cycles. You have no idea how much we wanted to keep this box going; the idea of a drawer freezer or other new unappealing designs really had us shivering. Per your request #10, and as a thanks for all your help with this, consider it done and for the benefit of a very active local robotics team under the umbrella of http://www.usfirst.org/

Still confuzzled by the refrigerator cold/warm setting though. It doesn't seem to make a significant difference at all monitoring the temp of water in a cup, and the baffle that allows more cold air in is wide open at the warmest setting and closed at the coldest setting. That defies logic. Is it backwards? The freezer thermostat for sure makes a difference in the refrigerator and freezer temps. How does the refrigerator cold/warm dial work?

Quote from jogalot : I've mounted it there (just after the bend, on the aluminum before the copper and with the switch part facing the back left corner of the box) and will keep fingers crossed. I'll grab a new bimetal Monday, but in the meantime the old one seems to be trying -- hopefully now that' it's in the right place even properly. It's on the right track... have correct temperatures and it's mostly defrosting on cycles. You have no idea how much we wanted to keep this box going; the idea of a drawer freezer or other new unappealing designs really had us shivering. Per your request #10, and as a thanks for all your help with this, consider it done and for the benefit of a very active local robotics team under the umbrella of http://www.usfirst.org/ Still confuzzled by the refrigerator cold/warm setting though. It doesn't seem to make a significant difference at all monitoring the temp of water in a cup, and the baffle that allows more cold air in is wide open at the warmest setting and closed at the coldest setting. That defies logic. Is it backwards? The freezer thermostat for sure makes a difference in the refrigerator and freezer temps. How does the refrigerator cold/warm dial work?

1st Thanx for the donation to usfirst, My oldest son was in that in high school and ended up going to Fla for the finals in2002

For this unit
the compressor runs off of the ref control (it actually has the t-stat bulb connected
so the refrigerator control is the main temp control

freezer warmer/cooler opens a damper and lets more/less air into the ref compartment

ie. if you want the freezer warmer ~~ set frezr control to warmer (more air will leave the freezer compartment)

hope this clarifies...

BikerEric, help please

Seemingly dead refrigerator/freezer
Whirlpool no frost side by side.
Model# EED192PKNR1
SN# S95117199

The refrigerator is at what was my mother's home. She passed away a couple of months ago and we have a friend staying in the house while we decide what to do with it. So I'm getting this information 2nd hand for tonight, but apparently the unit stopped working sometime last night and wasn't noticed until this morning.

I had another friend that's sort of a handyman that lives nearby the house take a look at it. He said that it sounds like the compressor is running (he could hear the motor), but the fan isn't. The freezer part doesn't seem to be working at all. Neither does the refrigerator side, at least no fan runs when you open the door, but the fridge side is still a little cool at this moment, about 50 degrees. There was no frost buildup that he could see in either the freezer nor the fridge side.

Unfortunately I can't get over to the house tonight to check on it myself, but I'm hoping to get over there sometime tomorrow. I am planning on having a repairman out on Monday if I can, because I can't fix it myself. I was hoping that you could maybe give me an idea of what might possibly be wrong and/or what to look for, either myself or when I do get a local repair man out.

Hopefully I'll be able to check back in on this thread later tonight but we have lightning storms moving in and I may have to shut the computer down for the night. So if I don't reply to any questions this evening (if you by chance see this post tonight), then I'll definitely check back tomorrow.

Thank you for any help or insight that you can give me.

Hi Eric the great

I lost power today in my house cause i had AC on and tried to print.

I reset the fuses but now my refrigerator's light is not turning on inside and it's not cooling/freezing. I tried unplugging it/replugging it, but no effect.

Do you think it shorted out?

thanks!

is the outlet getting power? my first thought would be missed one of the breakers

Quote from widgit : BikerEric, help please Seemingly dead refrigerator/freezer Whirlpool no frost side by side. Model# EED192PKNR1 SN# S95117199 The refrigerator is at what was my mother's home. She passed away a couple of months ago and we have a friend staying in the house while we decide what to do with it. So I'm getting this information 2nd hand for tonight, but apparently the unit stopped working sometime last night and wasn't noticed until this morning. I had another friend that's sort of a handyman that lives nearby the house take a look at it. He said that it sounds like the compressor is running (he could hear the motor), but the fan isn't. The freezer part doesn't seem to be working at all. Neither does the refrigerator side, at least no fan runs when you open the door, but the fridge side is still a little cool at this moment, about 50 degrees. There was no frost buildup that he could see in either the freezer nor the fridge side. Unfortunately I can't get over to the house tonight to check on it myself, but I'm hoping to get over there sometime tomorrow. I am planning on having a repairman out on Monday if I can, because I can't fix it myself. I was hoping that you could maybe give me an idea of what might possibly be wrong and/or what to look for, either myself or when I do get a local repair man out. Hopefully I'll be able to check back in on this thread later tonight but we have lightning storms moving in and I may have to shut the computer down for the night. So if I don't reply to any questions this evening (if you by chance see this post tonight), then I'll definitely check back tomorrow. Thank you for any help or insight that you can give me.

If the compressor is running, the mullion ( the strip between the fridge and frzr will be very hot!)
If this is the case , you need to pull the unit from the wall
remove the back panel
is the fan running?
is the compressor running?
is the comp hot?
or cool?

UNPLUG UNIT FROM WALL
vacuum all the dust out
from the front
from the rear

Plug unit back in
see if the fan starts to run
if not
try to give it a spin by hand
if it goes
you need a fan motor
if it doesn't
you need a fan motor
for temporary service
you can place a small box fan behind the unit and have it blow air under the unit ( with the panel off)
until you can get it fixed

The refrigerator is from 1990
the fan motor is part number 833697 msrp about $50
total job should be $150 to $170


if the compressor isn't running
I would spend the money to repair the unit.

Quote from iconian : Hi Eric the great I lost power today in my house cause i had AC on and tried to print. I reset the fuses but now my refrigerator's light is not turning on inside and it's not cooling/freezing. I tried unplugging it/replugging it, but no effect. Do you think it shorted out? thanks!

Quote from stufine : is the outlet getting power? my first thought would be missed one of the breakers

Check your circuit breakers again
And check all the GFCI outlets in your house too.
The outlet may be tied to a GFCI in the kitchen or even a bathroom.


other than that
Model and Serial please

i reset all of them when it had happeend, only outlets like that are in bathroom and kitchen. i reset ones in kitchen but bathroom didnt lose power, just kitchen/living room.

its a kenmore model # 253.61532804
serial: ba90918120

i can only do so much since it's land lords.

is the living room still without power?

Quote from stufine : is the living room still without power?

no i didnt lose power in the apartment, my bedrooms had power...just breakers kicked in cause i have pc./ac./tv. + on and tried to print

i reset breakers and everything, but fridge came back

Quote from BikerEric : If the compressor is running, the mullion ( the strip between the fridge and frzr will be very hot!) If this is the case , you need to pull the unit from the wall remove the back panel is the fan running? is the compressor running? is the comp hot? or cool? UNPLUG UNIT FROM WALL vacuum all the dust out from the front from the rear Plug unit back in see if the fan starts to run if not try to give it a spin by hand if it goes you need a fan motor if it doesn't you need a fan motor for temporary service you can place a small box fan behind the unit and have it blow air under the unit ( with the panel off) until you can get it fixed The refrigerator is from 1990 the fan motor is part number 833697 msrp about $50 total job should be $150 to $170 if the compressor isn't running I would spend the money to repair the unit.

Hi BE, thanks for the quick reply

I'll hopefully get out to the house later this afternoon and try to check out all of the above if I can.

Just to clarify in my mind: You said that if the compressor is not running "you would spend the money to repair the unit". So if it turns out that the compressor is bad, do you mean that it would be worth it to spend the money to repair it?

Also, since it seems the unit is apparently from 1990, if it's just the fan motor, is it worth it to repair it?

Given the age of the unit, I'm just worried that something else might go wrong with it, and so am trying to figure out if we should try to find a new unit instead of just repairing this one (don't really want to buy a new one if it is worth fixing this one). Help?

Thanks again

Quote from iconian : no i didnt lose power in the apartment, my bedrooms had power...just breakers kicked in cause i have pc./ac./tv. + on and tried to print i reset breakers and everything, but fridge came back

no fuses on fridge ... time call in the LL

Quote from widgit : Hi BE, thanks for the quick reply I'll hopefully get out to the house later this afternoon and try to check out all of the above if I can. Just to clarify in my mind: You said that if the compressor is not running "you would spend the money to repair the unit". So if it turns out that the compressor is bad, do you mean that it would be worth it to spend the money to repair it? Also, since it seems the unit is apparently from 1990, if it's just the fan motor, is it worth it to repair it? Given the age of the unit, I'm just worried that something else might go wrong with it, and so am trying to figure out if we should try to find a new unit instead of just repairing this one (don't really want to buy a new one if it is worth fixing this one). Help? Thanks again

I typed wrong! I would not spend any more than the fan repair to repair the unit.

Quote from BikerEric : no fuses on fridge ... time call in the LL I typed wrong! I would not spend any more than the fan repair to repair the unit.

tomorow. i thought so

thanks brother!