3 month old GE Monogram ZE2160 stopped heating (everything else appears and operates normallly, just no heat), waiting for GE guy to come out. Place I bought it from had no extended warranty available for microwaves. Only bought this because it fits into existing trim kit for older model JE2160 that lasted 5 years. Sad about build quality of so called high end microwave. Worried it will break down again before it's year warranty is up. The salesman told me all the micros are made in in the same place. Reading online about possible causes, if it's the magnetron does GE guy replace the part or the whole microwave?
I believe that the dryer timer is not working, but the part is around $100, and for a $300 dryer, I have to wonder if the part can be repaired, or something. It seems to spin freely. Quite frankly the friend who owns this dryer is inclined to just leave it as is and just manually shut off the dryer, but if there is a cheap enough fix, it might be worth a shot unless I can potentially break the dryer timer. I understand that they have small electric motors that run them and I wonder if it's bad or has some cheap plastic gears that are stripped, or something like that. If it matters, the dryer timer part number is 8299779
How are you turning it off, by opening door or otherwise? If you do nothing it will complete dryer cycle and still run forever?
Alright, so I have a dishwasher in a rental unit that is sporadically leaking from the door. I replaced the door gasket a month ago, but it still leaks from time to time.
The thing is, sometimes it doesn't leak at all. But when it does leak, it apparently leaks quite a bit. There is NO leak coming from underneath the dishwasher, only from the door.
The only thing I can think of is that perhaps the latch is loose/bad, keeping the door in a slightly open position? There just doesn't seem to be any other place for water to escape.
Any other ideas from the pros?
Last edited by The Raddish; 02-13-2013 at 08:13 PM..
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"Failure is a choice. Poverty is a mental disease." - Neal Boortz
We have a GE Adora side by side refrigerator, model DSF25KGTBG. The ice maker stopped making ice after our power went out during the hurricane last year. Recently I followed the ice maker reset procedure found online, turn off icemaker for 30 seconds, turn back on, push the arm in 3 times, let it go through what it needs to do. When I did this, the ice maker made some noise but nothing moved, then the light on the ice maker unit started to flash so I figured it was an easy fix, just order a new ice maker unit, install and I'll be good to go...
Yesterday I got around to installing the new ice maker. After plugging the refrigerator back in and then turning on the ice maker, the water started flowing out of the fill tube into the ice maker but it didn't stop. I had to turn off the ice maker to get the water to stop. Then when I turned the ice maker back on, there was no water flowing from the fill tube and nothing else was happening. I tried the reset/ diagnostic test on the new ice maker by pushing in the flapper/arm part 3 times after turning the ice maker on. Nothing happened, no noise from the ice maker, no water flowing from the fill tube. I left the door of the freezer open to see it the rake on the ice maker would move, but it did nothing. The green LED light on the ice maker stayed lit solid, not flashing.
So I unplugged the refrigerator then the ice maker in the freezer, then plugged the ice maker back in, then plugged the fridge back in again, then turned on the ice maker again, this time I again had the fridge again pumping water into the ice maker but again, it kept going, didn't stop so I had to turn off the ice maker. Turned it back on after a little while, tried the ice maker diagnostic and again, nothing happened.
Even if somehow my new ice maker is not working shouldn't it try to run through the diagnostic test?
Could it also be faulty water fill valve or maybe the main control board?
I also noticed recently that our freezer and fridge side doesn't seem to maintain the temperature I have it set at, ie. I'll have it set for +2 in the freezer and the other day it showed the actual temp was -8 even though I have it set at +2. The fridge doesn't seem to be that far off of the set temp compared to the freezer, but it can be at least a few degrees different.
Amana Refrigerator Getting Frost Buildup in Freezer
I've got an Amana bottom freezer drawer refrigerator that I've started having problems with. It came with our house, and our house is ~7 years old. We've had no problem with the fridge since we bought the house (almost three years ago), up until recently.
About a month back it started making a loud buzzing / vibrating noise. After troubleshooting, I determined that it seemed to be coming from a fan in the freezer, which I assume to be the fan that blows the cold air out over the contents of the freezer. I noticed that the entire freezer was covered in 1"-2" of frost / ice buildup. I unplugged the fridge, let it sit with the door open for several hours, and got all of the frost out of there. Upon plugging it back in, it came to life once more, quiet as can be.
Fast forward a month later to a few days ago, and it started making the loud noises again. I checked the freezer, and yup - once again it was frosted over. It's currently unplugged again with the door off, and letting the freezer start thawing out so that I can get all of the ice melted out of there so that the fan can spin freely again and not rattle against the ice.
I checked the seal on the freezer door, and it seems fine. There's no black mold around it or anything. I did also try the dollar trick (putting a bill in the door and closing it and then trying to pull on the bill). It didn't seem to have much resistance to it at all. However, neither did the fridge when I tried it in there, and we haven't had any problems with it. So I'm not sure that means much.
So, does anyone know any other way that there could be causing ice / frost to build up in the freezer, outside of a bad door seal? I looked online to replace the door seal, and I got prices ranging from $90 - $130! I definitely don't want to spend that kind of money without guaranteeing that it's the problem! I looked and the seal seems fine, and there are no cracks. I checked around the perimeter of the door when it was closed, and couldn't see any noticeable gaps around the door between the seal and the frame.
I just don't want to have to keep transferring everything out of the freezer and into our deep-freeze once a month, so that I can let it defrost enough to melt the ice away from the fan blades! Anybody have any ideas what could be the problem? Or does it seem like it's the door gasket anyway, even though I can't see any problems with it?
**Update** I tore the entire freezer apart, pulling everything out, and pulling the back panel off. There's a big metal thing in the back that looks like a radiator. I'm assuming this is part of the process to cool the Freon (?) so that it can then be blown over to cool what's in the freezer. It was completely frozen solid and iced over. The fan that's back there to blow on it was rubbing against ice, which is obviously the source of my rattling sound.
So I guess my question is, if everything's frozen back there, I would guess it would be a problem with either my defrost timer, or my defrost heater, correct? It can't properly defrost at its regular interval, and so eventually the ice / moisture continues to build. Is there an easy way to determine if it's the heater or the timer that needs to be replaced?
Last edited by ElectroWolf; 02-23-2013 at 02:56 AM..
There's also a high limit switch in there, it's about the size of a quarter. It tells the heater when to turn off during the defrost cycle, and if it's not functioning right you'll end up with a frosted up coil as described. It's typically at the top of the frosted up area, and has a horseshoe like clip securing it to a freon line.
You may also want to use a hair dryer and make sure that the duct between refrigerator part and the freezer area isn't clogged with frost.
Some cure the ordeal by leaving it unplugged several hours.
You should also cycle the defrost timer and make sure it's entering defrost mode and turning on the heater that's at the bottom of the coil you described. It might be located by the thermostat and you can advance it manually with a screwdriver on the center of the dial... there's a place to do that on the timer. If the timers not timing it won't defrost the box.
We have an electric Kenmore dryer, about 12 years old by now. It has developed an occasional habit of getting stuck while drying and it'll just keeping drying until we notice and our clothes are super hot by then. Sometimes it won't do this for weeks, and sometimes it'll do it like every other use. Any suggestions on how to troubleshoot or what may be wrong?
How often should the ac unit be inspected. I;ve been in the house 6 years and have had it checked once. Because of the way the unit was installed (I was told to many 90 degree pipes) although the freon is in the acceptable range. We tried to put a little more in as we felt the difference while heat and cooling but let some out. It is close to changing temps. I was told $69 to check it out. What will they/should they inspect. What should I be aware if that they will try and push?
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