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Online Appliance and HVACR help for SD members

BikerEric 1,607 May 10, 2008 at 07:37 PM
I will do my best to help any and all in the repair or diagnostic of any appliance.
My expertise comes from 30 years of doing the work and 20 plus of running and owning an appliance and HVACR company.
All I ask of you is to follow these rules and suggestions:


Remember to include your model and serial numbers in your post!

I can't tell you how many times loungers ask me for help repairing their appliance and they either give me a bad model number or none at all. Without a valid model number, I can't look up diagrams or find out anything about your appliance. So, here are:


the Ten Commandments for BikerEric's Online Appliance Help




1. Ye shall read the model number directly off the manufacturer's tag affixed to the appliance., not from the owners guide!

2. Ye shall use these diagrams to help you locate the manufacturer's tag if you are having trouble.

Window Air Conditioners
[partselect.com]
Dishwashers [partselect.com]
Dryer [partselect.com]
Freezer [partselect.com]
Stove or oven [partselect.com]
Refrigerators [partselect.com]
Washing Machine [partselect.com]
Trash Compactor [partselect.com]


3. Ye shall speak of the Brand Name

4. Ye shall mention if the appliance is electric or gas (natural or LPG [propane])

5. Ye shall speak of the configuration of the offending machine ie.side by side, front load

6. Ye shall speak precisely of the problem. not just it's broke , it doesn't work

7. Ye shall understand that I may ask for pictures if possible

8. Ye shall know and understand that I am doing this on line, So I may ask you to do a check on something. I have no idea how handy you are or what your abilities are, So you are doing these checks on your own responsibility. If you feel that it is beyond your ability , PLEASE let me know! BikerEric nor SlickDeals assumes any responsibility for your aptitude or abilities

9. Ye shall not blame BE if his diagnostics might be not be correct

10. Ye shall offer up thy praises in the form of reps or better yet as a donation to a local charity

11. Ye shall keep this tread "chit-chat" free and on topic

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

BikerEric's Online Guide to buying or replacing Major Appliances and HVACR


Please understand that I am very opinionated about brands and manufacturers . My opinions come my experience on working on these units and my dealing with the manufacturers. I scan the newspaper ads weekly to see who has the best price for the best products! I am not a pricing service. I do not work for or have any support from the manufacturers or from the dealers!


1 Ye shall explain what appliance you are replacing

2 Ye shall explain in detail what you would like to buy or purchase

3 Ye shall understand that my questions to you ( while seemingly personal) are to help you realize whether an appliance will work for you.



Ahem!
Ahem again


Current Appliance Rebates and Forms

Appliance Recalls updated when recalls are announced.

Links to repairs:
Frozen Drain Line
Cleaning a Condensing Unit
Cleaning you refrigerator's fan and coil
Testing Whirlpool Modular Style IceMaker
Why BE does NOT recommend Front Load Washing Machines
Replace door cam on sxs refrigerator door
6 Ways to avoid appliance problems
How to replace a Kenmore/Whirlpool/Roper/KitchenAid/Kirkland Automatic Washing Machine Coupler
How to install a Kenmore/Whirlpool/KitchenAid/Kirkland Automatic Washing Machine Lid Switch
The back of a whirlpool electric dryer [applianceaid.com]
How to replace the defrost heater(s) , defrost termination tstat and defrost timer in a GE SxS refrigerator
still under construction

July 12, 2010, 3:24 pm: System Notice: This thread has been automatically renewed after reaching a post limit. Most of its content has been moved to this thread for reference purposes.

1,192 Comments

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#886
Sweet thread, thanks!

My question is about window air conditioners. I'm thinking of buying a Frigidaire FRA064VU1 6,000 BTU Low Profile Window Air Conditioner (1) for my small upstairs bedroom in Northwest Arkansas. I am looking at this model because on the Sears website it says the Kenmore version of this AC (Kenmore 6,000 BTU AC model #70062) is 'the quietest AC sold by Sears' (2). The thing is, both of these units are fairly expensive, at around $300 or so.

I really don't care about the AC being 'low profile' as my windows are blacked out anyways, what I really am looking for are a quiet AC (as quiet as possible) and also one that doesn't let in a lot of light through the unit since my windows are blacked out. From reading product reviews on these units, it looks like they are supposedly fairly quiet because the compressor and the fan are in seperate compartments. Are there any other non-low profile AC's with this feature? Since my price range is relatively high due to looking at these units, are there any other units I should be looking at? My old unit was an approx. 5000 BTU AC (don't know what model) that died after many years and it cooled the room well enough even on low settings, and I've got a cheapo Goldstar GL5004 5050 BTU in the window now that lets in a lot of light, rattles like hell and is fairly lound itself but also works well enough in terms of cooling power. Since this unit is a 6000 BTU AC, will it be 20% louder than a 5000 BTU AC?

I've also read good reviews of Friedrich models like Friedrich CP05G10 5450 btu, (3) any suggestions on it? I just remember hearing an AC that was at a friends house several years ago and it was the quietest AC I've ever heard and I've wanted one like that ever since, the problem is that I've no idea what brand it was though!

Thanks a bunch for any help.

1. http://www.amazon.com/Frigidaire-...B004P8K39Q
2. http://www.sears.com/kenmore-6-00...0P?prdNo=1
3. http://www.amazon.com/Friedrich-C...onditioner
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#887
I have a Kenmore Elite front load washing machine. It is a HE5t. I took out the tray where you put in the detergent and it now seems like there is water where yo put the fabric softner softimes. The try appeared to slide back in and all things are in place. Any ideas?
Reply Helpful Comment? 0 0
#888
Quote from beanier View Post :
Sweet thread, thanks!

My question is about window air conditioners. I'm thinking of buying a Frigidaire FRA064VU1 6,000 BTU Low Profile Window Air Conditioner (1) for my small upstairs bedroom in Northwest Arkansas. I am looking at this model because on the Sears website it says the Kenmore version of this AC (Kenmore 6,000 BTU AC model #70062) is 'the quietest AC sold by Sears' (2). The thing is, both of these units are fairly expensive, at around $300 or so.

I really don't care about the AC being 'low profile' as my windows are blacked out anyways, what I really am looking for are a quiet AC (as quiet as possible) and also one that doesn't let in a lot of light through the unit since my windows are blacked out. From reading product reviews on these units, it looks like they are supposedly fairly quiet because the compressor and the fan are in separate compartments. Are there any other non-low profile AC's with this feature? Since my price range is relatively high due to looking at these units, are there any other units I should be looking at? My old unit was an approx. 5000 BTU AC (don't know what model) that died after many years and it cooled the room well enough even on low settings, and I've got a cheapo Goldstar GL5004 5050 BTU in the window now that lets in a lot of light, rattles like hell and is fairly lound itself but also works well enough in terms of cooling power. Since this unit is a 6000 BTU AC, will it be 20% louder than a 5000 BTU AC?

I've also read good reviews of Friedrich models like Friedrich CP05G10 5450 btu, (3) any suggestions on it? I just remember hearing an AC that was at a friends house several years ago and it was the quietest AC I've ever heard and I've wanted one like that ever since, the problem is that I've no idea what brand it was though!
If you want a "quiet" window A/C unit, then expect to pay that much for one! The market has decided that low cost is more important than noise levels so there is no economy of scale for these quiet units! That and they all advertise how quiet and efficient they are, even if they are not. I live in a noise y neighborhood, so the noise from my window A/C actually helps drown it out
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#889
Just moved into a new home. The LG refrigerator door handle just busted off when I attempted to remove it.

This is the replacement part I need: http://www.appliancepartspros.com...37915.html

Rather than spend $100 for this part, are there any easy solutions to DIY my own handle? For $100 I might as well replace the refrigerator.

The fridge model itself is a LG LRBN20510WW.

Thanks for any help!
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#890
Quote from lerryjee View Post :
Just moved into a new home. The LG refrigerator door handle just busted off when I attempted to remove it.

This is the replacement part I need: http://www.appliancepartspros.com...37915.html

Rather than spend $100 for this part, are there any easy solutions to DIY my own handle? For $100 I might as well replace the refrigerator.

The fridge model itself is a LG LRBN20510WW.

Thanks for any help!
Picture of the broken handle might be more helpful. For less than $100, I bet I can find a way to reinforce it with metal so that it won't break again, but I still have to see the broken one. Pictures of the refrigerator might also be helpful (since a solution might involve replacing both handles so that they match if a replacement pair is cheaper than replacing just one).

I also want to know if the existing handle is round or flat, and if round is it solid or hollow.
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#891
Whatever came of the guy that started this thread... did he abandon the place?

What glue works on the liner of a freezer door, nothing I've tried sticks to the cracked plastic part that holds on the shelf edge.

For the handle, they start at $10 on Ebay:
http://www.ebay.com/sch/?_nkw=365...6612687008


I also need a large window AC. What's a reliable brand nowadays?
Reply Helpful Comment? 0 0
#892
Thanks for the reply. Here are two pics. One is of the fridge door minus the handles. On the right side you see two little holes? That's where the handle would go. The second pic is of the broken handle. It's busted at the top and bottom where the screws would go into those aforementioned holes.

Quote from zzyzzx View Post :
Picture of the broken handle might be more helpful. For less than $100, I bet I can find a way to reinforce it with metal so that it won't break again, but I still have to see the broken one. Pictures of the refrigerator might also be helpful (since a solution might involve replacing both handles so that they match if a replacement pair is cheaper than replacing just one).

I also want to know if the existing handle is round or flat, and if round is it solid or hollow.
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#893
I would try the $10 handle from eBay if it fits. If you think a new handle would break (as in it's a bad design and the new one is going to fail quickly as well), anything that you could make (out of wood) would match if you painted it white. Of course I have no idea how handy you are, but if another piece of plastic is just going to break, something made of wood would be better, assuming you can make it look OK (and I have access to a wood shop so I certainly could). It's not lilke the existing handles match or are next to each other so as long as they are the same color that's probably all you need.
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#894
Should'a known better.
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#895
Is this thread still alive?

We recently bought a new Samsung front load washing machine. The machine would always shake violently during the spin cycle.

Things we have tried:
- Leveling: using a bubble leveler, we've made sure the top of the washing machine is perfectly leveled. The machine is perfectly stable, sits very flat on the floor, doesn't move when you try to nudge it around
- Calibration: The machine has a calibration mode, we've tried that many times
- Base: We bought the optional base. The machine is mounted very sturdy onto the mount. The 4 legs of the washing machine is put to the lowest settings so they can sit on top of the base. We level the machine by adjusting the base's legs

This has become very frustrating trying all different things. Any clue what else we can try? Thank you
Reply Helpful Comment? 0 0
#896
Quote from V0RT3X View Post :
Is this thread still alive?

We recently bought a new Samsung front load washing machine. The machine would always shake violently during the spin cycle.

Things we have tried:
- Leveling: using a bubble leveler, we've made sure the top of the washing machine is perfectly leveled. The machine is perfectly stable, sits very flat on the floor, doesn't move when you try to nudge it around
- Calibration: The machine has a calibration mode, we've tried that many times
- Base: We bought the optional base. The machine is mounted very sturdy onto the mount. The 4 legs of the washing machine is put to the lowest settings so they can sit on top of the base. We level the machine by adjusting the base's legs

This has become very frustrating trying all different things. Any clue what else we can try? Thank you
Check online for isolating feet. I need them too. Mine shakes so bad it broke a window. Let us know if they work
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#897
Quote from Stud View Post :
Check online for isolating feet. I need them too. Mine shakes so bad it broke a window. Let us know if they work
Wow, thanks. I went to amazon and search for the isolating feet. One reviewer stated to make sure you remove the "transit bolt". I went to samsung site and check and sure enough they have a "shipping bolt". I think we definitely did not remove this shipping bolt.

http://www.samsung.com/us/support..._seq=31865

Gonna try that later today and see.
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#898
Quote from Stud View Post :
Check online for isolating feet. I need them too. Mine shakes so bad it broke a window. Let us know if they work
Exactly how did it break a window?
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#899
Quote from zzyzzx View Post :
Exactly how did it break a window?
vampire upper floor shakes on the spin cycle. The windows 35 feet away and cracked it. That a window rattles even worse.iCracked the inside pain of a to pane fixed window
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#900
I have a lennox 4 ton ac unit about 6 years old. Recently is has been acting up. It blows but never cools. The low side would vary up and down or atleast but eventually settle about 58 psi while the high side was about 200 psi. I was told it was the inside txv and coil needed to be replaced. There was minor rust on the very outside of the coil. I was quoted $2350. He didnt seem sure of what exactly what was wrong. His leak machine never went off while trying to inspect yet said that what was wrong. He even let some freon out just to verfiy his tester was working. The part number he wrote down were

13HPD04823001

CB26UH0482301

My basic search came up with parts of $850. Does this seem fair or what else can be checked to make sure this is legit?
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