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Online Appliance and HVACR help for SD members

BikerEric 16,541 1,607 May 10, 2008 at 07:37 PM
I will do my best to help any and all in the repair or diagnostic of any appliance.
My expertise comes from 30 years of doing the work and 20 plus of running and owning an appliance and HVACR company.
All I ask of you is to follow these rules and suggestions:


Remember to include your model and serial numbers in your post!

I can't tell you how many times loungers ask me for help repairing their appliance and they either give me a bad model number or none at all. Without a valid model number, I can't look up diagrams or find out anything about your appliance. So, here are:


the Ten Commandments for BikerEric's Online Appliance Help




1. Ye shall read the model number directly off the manufacturer's tag affixed to the appliance., not from the owners guide!

2. Ye shall use these diagrams to help you locate the manufacturer's tag if you are having trouble.

Window Air Conditioners
[partselect.com]
Dishwashers [partselect.com]
Dryer [partselect.com]
Freezer [partselect.com]
Stove or oven [partselect.com]
Refrigerators [partselect.com]
Washing Machine [partselect.com]
Trash Compactor [partselect.com]


3. Ye shall speak of the Brand Name

4. Ye shall mention if the appliance is electric or gas (natural or LPG [propane])

5. Ye shall speak of the configuration of the offending machine ie.side by side, front load

6. Ye shall speak precisely of the problem. not just it's broke , it doesn't work

7. Ye shall understand that I may ask for pictures if possible

8. Ye shall know and understand that I am doing this on line, So I may ask you to do a check on something. I have no idea how handy you are or what your abilities are, So you are doing these checks on your own responsibility. If you feel that it is beyond your ability , PLEASE let me know! BikerEric nor SlickDeals assumes any responsibility for your aptitude or abilities

9. Ye shall not blame BE if his diagnostics might be not be correct

10. Ye shall offer up thy praises in the form of reps or better yet as a donation to a local charity

11. Ye shall keep this tread "chit-chat" free and on topic

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

BikerEric's Online Guide to buying or replacing Major Appliances and HVACR


Please understand that I am very opinionated about brands and manufacturers . My opinions come my experience on working on these units and my dealing with the manufacturers. I scan the newspaper ads weekly to see who has the best price for the best products! I am not a pricing service. I do not work for or have any support from the manufacturers or from the dealers!


1 Ye shall explain what appliance you are replacing

2 Ye shall explain in detail what you would like to buy or purchase

3 Ye shall understand that my questions to you ( while seemingly personal) are to help you realize whether an appliance will work for you.



Ahem!
Ahem again


Current Appliance Rebates and Forms

Appliance Recallsupdated when recalls are announced.

Links to repairs:
Frozen Drain Line
Cleaning a Condensing Unit
Cleaning you refrigerator's fan and coil
Testing Whirlpool Modular Style IceMaker
Why BE does NOT recommend Front Load Washing Machines
Replace door cam on sxs refrigerator door
6 Ways to avoid appliance problems
How to replace a Kenmore/Whirlpool/Roper/KitchenAid/Kirkland Automatic Washing Machine Coupler
How to install a Kenmore/Whirlpool/KitchenAid/Kirkland Automatic Washing Machine Lid Switch
The back of a whirlpool electric dryer [applianceaid.com]
How to replace the defrost heater(s) , defrost termination tstat and defrost timer in a GE SxS refrigerator
still under construction

July 12, 2010, 3:24 pm: System Notice: This thread has been automatically renewed after reaching a post limit. Most of its content has been moved to this thread for reference purposes.

Community Wiki

Last Edited by daniel32 May 28, 2009 at 12:40 PM
Soccer

Please have model and serial number available for assistance.

donation to local charity optional, but preferred.





This post can be edited by most users to provide up-to-date information about developments of this thread based on user responses, and user findings. Feel free to add, change or remove information shown here as it becomes available. This includes new coupons, rebates, ideas, thread summary, and similar items.

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1,223 Comments

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Joined Feb 2012
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#1051
what is the best way to go about cleaning the in side of the air handler. its several years old so im sure the fins that the freon tubes run thru and the air goes thru are dirty. would disconnecting the fan motor and pulling the fan box give better access? also, what about using that foaming coil cleaner?
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#1052
I got some of the spray on stuff from Lowes for the coils. Sprayed it on and then tried to rinse some water. Mine but be a different sent up then yours though. You can also buy special brush to help with that.
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#1053
I have a Frigidaire dishwasher question. Our dishwasher has the grinder in the base. After a cycle, I have a small amount of standing water around the grinder in the base of the washer. I have tried cleaning around and have poked in the holes looking for clogs, but cannot locate any. What could possibly be causing the standing water? It seems to be draining since we have done many washes and there is only a little water standing after each. Thank you for your assistance.

Also, I have a Genie garage door opener that is losing remote code every couple of days. Is that the logic board going bad?
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#1054
We have an Amana gas dryer, model NGD7200TW doesn't heat up to dry at all. I thought I had had gas dryer coverage through our gas company, but our model isn't covered. the guy that came out today told me it's a pain to take a part and could be hundreds of dollars to fix and of course couldn't tell me anything about what he thought it could be. anyone know anything about these? before I say the hell with it and go buy a new dryer?
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#1055
Quote from dcrob View Post :
We have an Amana gas dryer, model NGD7200TW doesn't heat up to dry at all. I thought I had had gas dryer coverage through our gas company, but our model isn't covered. the guy that came out today told me it's a pain to take a part and could be hundreds of dollars to fix and of course couldn't tell me anything about what he thought it could be. anyone know anything about these? before I say the hell with it and go buy a new dryer?
some have inspection doors where you can look in to see the burner area. I didn't see one in these specs. here is the burner setup
http://www.appliancepartspros.com...0tw10.html
It could be something as simple as the igniter.
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for those that hate spelling mistakes www.walmarts.comCool

bulb save money by checking your insurance every 2 years (and not every 20)
Joined Feb 2012
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#1056
oh hey we have a lennox heat pump and when it goes into defrost mode it shuts off about a minute later. so when it comes back on after the 6 minute reset delay it runs the defrost cycle. is this normal or should it be staying on until after the defrost cycle completes and then turn off.
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Joined Feb 2012
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#1057
oh hey never had this happen before, but early this morning the top grill cover over the exhaust fan on the heat pump started freezing over with a quarter of an inch of ice and the fan blades were hitting the buildup of the ice on the under side of the grill. around 4 am we started hearing all this rattling noise and then it eventually calmed down and then we could only hear it when the fan would spin down. so at 4 am i went outside and managed to get the grill cover off, but i had to work the ice build up over the 4 lug caps. its been raining sleet all night so it must have contributed to the build up. yes, the defrost cycle is working.
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#1058
I have a Whirlpool side by side electric dryer (7-10 years old, model number coming within an hour - trying to get kiddo asleep). It gets hot but clothes stay wet, maybe 3-4 hours to dry a normal load that'd run 45m to an hour in the past. I can feel air coming from the outside vent. It is a fairly long exhaust vent, maybe 15 feet with two 90 degree turns in there.

Best first step - clearing the vent and lint trap? Is there a way to test if the fan is working? Thanks, and I'll post the required information shortly.

Lev4634pq0.
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Last edited by tedge April 2, 2014 at 05:48 PM
#1059
I have a lennox air conditioner 13hpd-048-230-1. I have several people out. One company said compressor, coil and some other things. Another said just the txv valve. Well I replaced the txv valve and still had problems. Come to find out that the person didn't put the valve in right and didn't use a drier. Also put like 10 pounds extra of Freon. It worked for awhile but in the mean time had a leak. Person came out and replaced the fittings at the outside unit as he said the check valve on the fitting went bad and installed a drier. Because the first person didn't use the drier we think the system got contaminated. So at one time the AC worked didn't work and then the Heat but not AC. So now that we need AC it doesn't work. Tech is thinking that it is again the txv valve because not put in correct. When I called to get the price that tech person suggested the reversing valve. So here I am stuck between either of the 2 parts. A total of about $275 for parts plus labor to install. This still doesn't mean the problem will be solved. So in the end it seems Im better just replacing the whole system since r-22 is being faced out. So take the chance and it works or spend several thousand dollars and look to the future? Obvious Im confused and not sure how to proceed and each tech is saying something different. Help lol ...
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Joined Sep 2006
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#1060
Quote from redls1 View Post :
I have a lennox air conditioner 13hpd-048-230-1. I have several people out. One company said compressor, coil and some other things. Another said just the txv valve. Well I replaced the txv valve and still had problems. Come to find out that the person didn't put the valve in right and didn't use a drier. Also put like 10 pounds extra of Freon. It worked for awhile but in the mean time had a leak. Person came out and replaced the fittings at the outside unit as he said the check valve on the fitting went bad and installed a drier. Because the first person didn't use the drier we think the system got contaminated. So at one time the AC worked didn't work and then the Heat but not AC. So now that we need AC it doesn't work. Tech is thinking that it is again the txv valve because not put in correct. When I called to get the price that tech person suggested the reversing valve. So here I am stuck between either of the 2 parts. A total of about $275 for parts plus labor to install. This still doesn't mean the problem will be solved. So in the end it seems Im better just replacing the whole system since r-22 is being faced out. So take the chance and it works or spend several thousand dollars and look to the future? Obvious Im confused and not sure how to proceed and each tech is saying something different. Help lol ...
I have a feeling both techs are incompetent. How did you find them, and did they have street addresses listed? Check their state licenses, BBB records (but bad companies can have A+ ratings from the BBB), and ask Lennox if they're authorized to do warranty work.

Why did the second company initially say you needed a compressor and coil? Coils aren't replaced unless they're leaking.

10 lbs extra Freon is inexcusable, period. You can get by without having the drier replaced, but you can't get by at all with a system that isn't pumped down enough to a vacuum to remove air and moisture. Why wasn't the reversing valve checked after the first repair was done? When we had a heatpump installed in the summer, the contractor tested the unit in both cooling and heating modes for several hours, and that was after they had previously run it in their shop.

Ask at http://www.HVAC-talk.com
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#1061
Well went through 2 company's that other people used. One said the coil because he used his tester and it supposedly came up with a leak.But then he went downstairs and he didnt have a clue. He let out some freon to make sure his tester worked. Any on to our current person. He does commercial stuff. Our pressures have been really weird and different things have been happening going from cold to now hot and how it works. Anyway this last time he replaced the valve at the outside unit (place where you hook up your gauges) He said it showed a leak with the ball valve or something like that. He installed a drier. Ok now we go from heat to cold. He did a pressure test after replacing the valve and it holds pressure. Something happened and its not working again. We disconnect the txv valve and blow nitrogen and its not clogged going up. Put a new drier in and a site glass to check flow. I dont understand it all but pressures and cycling are not happening correct. He is saying because of the past things that have been done ( compressor overheating, no drier) there could still debri on the filter at the unit. Anyway we are trying to track down different things as nothing is consistent. Could it be a reversing valve? After the $700-800 from the first guy that screwed us and now these minor things its getting to the point that we think we should just replace everything and get it done with. The current install was done by a company that did the whole neighborhood. We have a 2 story 2700 sq. ft. home with one 4 ton 13 seer unit. The ducting isnt that great. Either we were thinking of just getting 2 units or a 5 ton 16 seer. Sorry saw at the vary and about the reversing valve. It was never checked because nobody thought of that and wanted to change several other things. Could be because they were incompetent or just wanted to make a buck. The system works and then it doesnt. It was pumped down and refilled then a drier put in. Sorry I rambled there has been so much done and checked by several people and all told something different. Ive learned alot thats for sure. ( pressure and variance with temperature, duct sizing) Codes have changed and anything that was done it the first place barely med code if at all.
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#1062
When that outside valve (charging valve, AKA Schrader valve -- just like one on a tire, only fatter) was replaced, was the system pumped down? Because there's a special tool that allows the valve core to be changed without that being necessary, and if such a tool wasn't used, it indicates the tech was a hack. OTOH the fact that he does commercial work is a good sign.

Was the reversing valve tried by switching from cooling to heating?

Inconsistent cooling does seem like there's a clog or crud in the system, which sometimes it happens when the system isn't pumped down enough to remove moisture.

Some techs are awful at finding leaks. One guy who came out couldn't find anything with his tester, despite the fact there was a visible crack in the evaporator that blew oil bubbles.

If the system is more than 15 years old, I'd probably replace it because that's the average lifespan, and I might replacement even at 10 years, especially if a new compressor is needed. I don't know if getting a SEER 16 system makes sense because prices start to zoom above a certain SEER, probably 14. Also replacing a 4 ton with 5 tons could make cooling worse because it could cool down the house so fast that the A/C will stay turned off longer and cause bigger temperature swings and not remove as much moisture. Also it takes several minutes for an A/C to start running at its maximum efficiency. OTOH getting two 2-ton units might make sense for those reasons.
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Last edited by larrymoencurly April 5, 2014 at 01:28 PM
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#1063
I have a keypad in the door GE profile microwave and have the F-3 error. Reading online i have found where the keypad gets dirty on the inside and taking the keypad off the microwave you can clean the back and usually that will fix it.

Well I liked how the keypad in the door looked so that is what I purchased but there does not seem to be a way to get to the back of the keypad?

Anyone know how to take apart the door on a ge profile microwave with the built in keypad

this is the model GE Spacemaker JVM2052

here is the exploded view


and my panel message
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#1064
Quote from dcrob View Post :
We have an Amana gas dryer, model oesn't heat up to dry at all. I thought I had had gas dryer coverage through our gas company, but our model isn't covered. the guy that came out today told me it's a pain to take a part and could be hundreds of dollars to fix and of course couldn't tell me anything about what he thought it could be. anyone know anything about these? before I say the hell with it and go buy a new dryer?

It could easily be a clog or a high limit switch if you take the back off you should be able to see the limit switch

or this

http://www.appliancepartspros.com...94251.html

or part# 27 here

http://www.appliancepartspros.com...0tw10.html


First thing is to make sure the duct is not blocked
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#1065
Any ideas?

Samsung Fridge, about 10 years old. Side by side. Fridge side door keeps popping back open about 4-5 inches. Seems to be getting worse. Right now I have it shut with a stretch strap & heavy box, but it still sometimes will push open. This door hasn't been quite right since a move 16 months ago - it got banged around a bit.

Only other clue was magnet shavings in the hinge area.

Any ideas? Hoping someone can help so I can avoid calling in a repairman.
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