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Online Appliance and HVACR help for SD members

BikerEric 1,607 May 10, 2008 at 07:37 PM
I will do my best to help any and all in the repair or diagnostic of any appliance.
My expertise comes from 30 years of doing the work and 20 plus of running and owning an appliance and HVACR company.
All I ask of you is to follow these rules and suggestions:


Remember to include your model and serial numbers in your post!

I can't tell you how many times loungers ask me for help repairing their appliance and they either give me a bad model number or none at all. Without a valid model number, I can't look up diagrams or find out anything about your appliance. So, here are:


the Ten Commandments for BikerEric's Online Appliance Help




1. Ye shall read the model number directly off the manufacturer's tag affixed to the appliance., not from the owners guide!

2. Ye shall use these diagrams to help you locate the manufacturer's tag if you are having trouble.

Window Air Conditioners
[partselect.com]
Dishwashers [partselect.com]
Dryer [partselect.com]
Freezer [partselect.com]
Stove or oven [partselect.com]
Refrigerators [partselect.com]
Washing Machine [partselect.com]
Trash Compactor [partselect.com]


3. Ye shall speak of the Brand Name

4. Ye shall mention if the appliance is electric or gas (natural or LPG [propane])

5. Ye shall speak of the configuration of the offending machine ie.side by side, front load

6. Ye shall speak precisely of the problem. not just it's broke , it doesn't work

7. Ye shall understand that I may ask for pictures if possible

8. Ye shall know and understand that I am doing this on line, So I may ask you to do a check on something. I have no idea how handy you are or what your abilities are, So you are doing these checks on your own responsibility. If you feel that it is beyond your ability , PLEASE let me know! BikerEric nor SlickDeals assumes any responsibility for your aptitude or abilities

9. Ye shall not blame BE if his diagnostics might be not be correct

10. Ye shall offer up thy praises in the form of reps or better yet as a donation to a local charity

11. Ye shall keep this tread "chit-chat" free and on topic

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

BikerEric's Online Guide to buying or replacing Major Appliances and HVACR


Please understand that I am very opinionated about brands and manufacturers . My opinions come my experience on working on these units and my dealing with the manufacturers. I scan the newspaper ads weekly to see who has the best price for the best products! I am not a pricing service. I do not work for or have any support from the manufacturers or from the dealers!


1 Ye shall explain what appliance you are replacing

2 Ye shall explain in detail what you would like to buy or purchase

3 Ye shall understand that my questions to you ( while seemingly personal) are to help you realize whether an appliance will work for you.



Ahem!
Ahem again


Current Appliance Rebates and Forms

Appliance Recalls updated when recalls are announced.

Links to repairs:
Frozen Drain Line
Cleaning a Condensing Unit
Cleaning you refrigerator's fan and coil
Testing Whirlpool Modular Style IceMaker
Why BE does NOT recommend Front Load Washing Machines
Replace door cam on sxs refrigerator door
6 Ways to avoid appliance problems
How to replace a Kenmore/Whirlpool/Roper/KitchenAid/Kirkland Automatic Washing Machine Coupler
How to install a Kenmore/Whirlpool/KitchenAid/Kirkland Automatic Washing Machine Lid Switch
The back of a whirlpool electric dryer [applianceaid.com]
How to replace the defrost heater(s) , defrost termination tstat and defrost timer in a GE SxS refrigerator
still under construction

July 12, 2010, 3:24 pm: System Notice: This thread has been automatically renewed after reaching a post limit. Most of its content has been moved to this thread for reference purposes.

1,192 Comments

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Joined Oct 2007
L1: Learner
10 Reputation
#31
Partial frost on a evaporator coil could mean that something funky is going on with your compressor. Maybe a restriction in the lines.
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Joined May 2006
L4: Apprentice
114 Reputation
#32
error:
suds
f35
f20

kenmore front load
model 110.47781701
serial CSW2608122

today started getting these errors, I unplugged & tried again to no avail. about 1.5 year old. I checked water hose; there apparently is proper water flow & no kinks in hose.
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#33
Quote from Snoozer View Post :
error:
suds
f35
f20

kenmore front load
model 110.47781701
serial CSW2608122

today started getting these errors, I unplugged & tried again to no avail. about 1.5 year old. I checked water hose; there apparently is proper water flow & no kinks in hose.
I had a problem similar to yours, although my first generation machine's a lot older than yours. There are three screws on the front bottom panel. Remove them. You'll see the pump in the center of the bottom plate. Put lots (no, actually more than lots) of towels and stuff under the knob and unscrew it. You'll probably find a clog in there along with lots of cruddy water. Clean everything out, and then look into the hoses with a flashlight to make sure they're open. Replace parts as you found them. Then check the drain hose where it comes out of the back to insure it's not kinked or something like that. Then, if you can, run a cycle without soap just to clear the machine. I though we'd have to replace some sensor part, but doing this clean-out fixed the suds and code issue. I now perform this stinky ritual annually.

Almost forgot, peel back the door gasket at it's lowest point and make sure there's nothing blocking the drain holes. You'll understand description when you look.
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Joined Aug 2004
Ponderer of imponderables
1,607 Reputation
Original Poster
#34
Quote from Snoozer View Post :
error:
suds
f35
f20

kenmore front load
model 110.47781701
serial CSW2608122

today started getting these errors, I unplugged & tried again to no avail. about 1.5 year old. I checked water hose; there apparently is proper water flow & no kinks in hose.
sud
Quote :
SUDS LOCK (Overdose of Detergent detected during the Wash Cycle)

The motor control unit senses a suds lock condition by analyzing the current draw on the drive motor. If "Sud" is displayed a potential suds lock is detected. This may signify a bad pump, an extra heavy load, excessive detergent, or excessive suds.
Quote :
* If too much detergent was used, run the unit through a Rinse/Spin cycle, then a Normal cycle,
without adding any detergent. This should clear the unit of the excess detergent.
* Check the drain hose and make sure it is not plugged or kinked.
* Check Wire Harness connectors to the Drain Pump, Pressure Switch, and Central Control Unit (CCU)
* Check/Clean Drain Pump Filter of foreign objects
* Check Drain Pump
* Check Pressure Switch
* Check CCU



f35
Quote :
F35 ANALOG PRESSURE SENSOR FAILURE
If this failure is displayed, there is any malfunction of the steamer component detected by the Steamer Electronic Board.
Quote :
[F35ANALOG PRESSURE SENSOR FAILURE
If this failure is displayed, there is any malfunction of the steamer component detected by the Steamer Electronic Board.
1. Check if pressure hose is fi xed correctly.
2. Check if the airtrap is not blocked.
3. Check if the hose is not blocked

f20
Quote :
NO WATER DETECTED ENTERING MACHINE OR PRESSURE SWITCH TRIP NOT DETECTED.
The pressure switch is not tripped after 6 minutes.
Quote :
If there is no water in the unit:
Make sure that both valves at the water source(s) are turned on all the way.
Check for plugged or kinked inlet hoses or plugged screens in the inlet valves.
Verify inlet valve operation.
If there is water in the unit:
Verify drain pump operation.
Verify that the pressure switch hose is in good condition and properly connected to tub and pressure switch.
1. Verify there is not a siphon problem.
2. Press PAUSE/CANCEL twice to clear the display. The machine will drain for 3 minutes before unlocking the door.
3. Unplug washer or disconnect power.
4. Verify wire harness connections to inlet valves, pressure switch, drain pump and Central Control Unit (CCU).
5. Check all hoses for possible leaks.
6. Plug in washer or reconnect power
7. Verify pressure switch operation.
8. Verify CCU operation by running a Diagnostic Test or any cycle.
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Joined May 2006
L4: Apprentice
114 Reputation
#35
thank you for your replies, bikereric & oyNot. I will try l8r 2n8 when I get home & post results!
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Joined May 2006
L4: Apprentice
114 Reputation
#36
Quote from oynot View Post :
I had a problem similar to yours, although my first generation machine's a lot older than yours. There are three screws on the front bottom panel. Remove them. You'll see the pump in the center of the bottom plate. Put lots (no, actually more than lots) of towels and stuff under the knob and unscrew it. You'll probably find a clog in there along with lots of cruddy water. Clean everything out, and then look into the hoses with a flashlight to make sure they're open. Replace parts as you found them. Then check the drain hose where it comes out of the back to insure it's not kinked or something like that. Then, if you can, run a cycle without soap just to clear the machine. I though we'd have to replace some sensor part, but doing this clean-out fixed the suds and code issue. I now perform this stinky ritual annually.

Almost forgot, peel back the door gasket at it's lowest point and make sure there's nothing blocking the drain holes. You'll understand description when you look.
I opened it. there was nothing blocking it. I was clear water mostly. the three drain holes under the door gasket are clear. I did notice the detergent feeder was really full of mildew. i cleaned it all out, it did not chage anything. the "clean washer" cycle works its way through the entire process. Anything else I can try?
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#37
Quote from Snoozer View Post :
I opened it. there was nothing blocking it. I was clear water mostly. the three drain holes under the door gasket are clear. I did notice the detergent feeder was really full of mildew. i cleaned it all out, it did not chage anything. the "clean washer" cycle works its way through the entire process. Anything else I can try?
Would have been good if you uncovered something in the drain, that would have beeb an easy fix, but since that didn't happen you've got to dig deeper and BE addressed the next step(s) earlier.
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Joined Jul 2006
L5: Journeyman
358 Reputation
#38
Eric --

I found my way to your appliance thread. My top-loading washing machine is about 10 years old.

The Problem: I had to fiddle quite a bit (more than usual) to get the last cycle to start. Sometimes I accidently go past the correct starting point on the dial. This time it filled up with water; but when the cycle came to the part when the water was supposed to empty, it just stopped and nothing more happened. I tried moving the dial to various cycles, but it did not help.

The Brand Name: Whirlpool "Ultimate Care II Heavy Duty Super Capacity Plus" machine with 9 cycles and a 2-speed motor.

The Model: The manufacturer's tag inside shows the model as: LSQ9264HQ0 (or O, not sure). It's a Type 111 machine.

My appliance know-how level: No, I am not handy really with these things and have never had to get a washing machine fixed before.

Curious Question: How can serial numbers help? Are you able to look up the owners?

P.P.S. Forgot to add that it's an electric washing machine.

I've got financial issues and am scared to death of getting into the hands of a greedy repairman or repair company. Any help you would provide would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks, It's wonderful of you to share your expertise.

Shirley
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Joined Jan 2009
The truth is out there
554 Reputation
#39
I have a Hartell Condensate Pump PAB-1 that is used to pump out water from the Carrier Central Air Condition from basement to outside ground level. The pump will turn on but will not pump out any water. My friend take a look at it and concluded that it is broken and I should purchase a new one. Is there any model that you would recommend. I am not handy but my friend's father said he will install the new one for me if I purchase one. Thanks.
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Joined Apr 2010
Been there, doing that.
72 Reputation
#40
I'm getting desperate with that Whirlpool EB21DK bottom freezer 21CF 1994 refrigerator with the cold freezer and the warm refrigerator, but think I'm making progress.

Took it apart, more this time. Coils behind the back freezer panel had some, not a lot of frost on them. I removed the frost with a hairdryer. Then I tried to discern that the blower that's in the back center upper part of the freezer was doing it's thing. There's a piddling amount of air coming through the refrigerator vent when it's set to coldest. I took apart the thermostat area and ran the defrost cycle three times. And I took the panel off the bottom of the refrigerator and found the vent that leads to the freezer. There's no baffle, it's just an open duct.

Questions:
(1) The cold/warm dial on the refrigerator near the thermostat has a baffle that can be seen through the refrigerator vent. When set to warm, it's open all the way, I can see it close as the dial is turned counterclockwise to cold. Is that backwards? Have I had the dial set to coldest all this time when actually it was warmest? Should the vent be open all the way for coldest? It has the most airflow that way.

(2) During the defrost cycle, the part that's above the freezer and under the panel I removed to discover the return duct... the bottom panel on the refrigerator. That area seemed to get warm during the defrost cycle and I'm letting it defrost until the top of the freezer is warm to the touch. It's on the third defrost cycle right now, I've aimed a room heater into the freezer, and the ceiling of the freezer is dripping into the freezer area. What's in that space?

(3) My kilawatt thing show the refrigerator is drawing 233 watts after having a chance to run awhile and in a normal cycle (not defrost), and the lightbulb increases by it 40 when the door is opened. That sounds mightly low. Is it significant?

Thanks much.
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Joined Jan 2005
Hot Dealer
1,169 Reputation
#41
Im about to pull the 2 sink countertop (1 sink on each side of 80" vanity) in my bathroom and tile a new top...I'd like to just drop in 1 sink in the middle.... what am I looking at with the plumbing ?

can i just run the flexible water supplies from one of the supplies to the new middle sink and cut some longer PVC for the drain ? that it ? anything to that ?

just cap the other drain and leave the cut off valves off on the unsed supply ? against code ?
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#42
Quote from OP View Post :
Im about to pull the 2 sink countertop (1 sink on each side of 80" vanity) in my bathroom and tile a new top...I'd like to just drop in 1 sink in the middle.... what am I looking at with the plumbing ?

can i just run the flexible water supplies from one of the supplies to the new middle sink and cut some longer PVC for the drain ? that it ? anything to that ?

just cap the other drain and leave the cut off valves off on the unsed supply ? against code ?
Cap off any unused pipes, check the drain pipe for pitch and a use proper trap and you're good to go.

There's a handy dandy home repair thread, too.
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Joined Aug 2004
Ponderer of imponderables
1,607 Reputation
Original Poster
#43
Quote from shirleyuguest View Post :
Eric --

I found my way to your appliance thread. My top-loading washing machine is about 10 years old.

The Problem: I had to fiddle quite a bit (more than usual) to get the last cycle to start. Sometimes I accidently go past the correct starting point on the dial. This time it filled up with water; but when the cycle came to the part when the water was supposed to empty, it just stopped and nothing more happened. I tried moving the dial to various cycles, but it did not help.

The Brand Name: Whirlpool "Ultimate Care II Heavy Duty Super Capacity Plus" machine with 9 cycles and a 2-speed motor.

The Model: The manufacturer's tag inside shows the model as: LSQ9264HQ0 (or O, not sure). It's a Type 111 machine.

My appliance know-how level: No, I am not handy really with these things and have never had to get a washing machine fixed before.

Curious Question: How can serial numbers help? Are you able to look up the owners?

P.P.S. Forgot to add that it's an electric washing machine.

I've got financial issues and am scared to death of getting into the hands of a greedy repairman or repair company. Any help you would provide would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks, It's wonderful of you to share your expertise.

Shirley
It sounds like a lid switch
P/N: 3949247 [pcappliancerepair.com]

How to change the switch [youtube.com]
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Joined Aug 2004
Ponderer of imponderables
1,607 Reputation
Original Poster
#44
Quote from Adipose View Post :
I have a Hartell Condensate Pump PAB-1 that is used to pump out water from the Carrier Central Air Condition from basement to outside ground level. The pump will turn on but will not pump out any water. My friend take a look at it and concluded that it is broken and I should purchase a new one. Is there any model that you would recommend. I am not handy but my friend's father said he will install the new one for me if I purchase one. Thanks.
pretty much any brand will do.
Quote from jogalot View Post :
I'm getting desperate with that Whirlpool EB21DK bottom freezer 21CF 1994 refrigerator with the cold freezer and the warm refrigerator, but think I'm making progress.

Took it apart, more this time. Coils behind the back freezer panel had some, not a lot of frost on them. I removed the frost with a hairdryer. Then I tried to discern that the blower that's in the back center upper part of the freezer was doing it's thing. There's a piddling amount of air coming through the refrigerator vent when it's set to coldest. I took apart the thermostat area and ran the defrost cycle three times. And I took the panel off the bottom of the refrigerator and found the vent that leads to the freezer. There's no baffle, it's just an open duct.

Questions:
(1) The cold/warm dial on the refrigerator near the thermostat has a baffle that can be seen through the refrigerator vent. When set to warm, it's open all the way, I can see it close as the dial is turned counterclockwise to cold. Is that backwards? Have I had the dial set to coldest all this time when actually it was warmest? Should the vent be open all the way for coldest? It has the most airflow that way.

(2) During the defrost cycle, the part that's above the freezer and under the panel I removed to discover the return duct... the bottom panel on the refrigerator. That area seemed to get warm during the defrost cycle and I'm letting it defrost until the top of the freezer is warm to the touch. It's on the third defrost cycle right now, I've aimed a room heater into the freezer, and the ceiling of the freezer is dripping into the freezer area. What's in that space?

(3) My kilawatt thing show the refrigerator is drawing 233 watts after having a chance to run awhile and in a normal cycle (not defrost), and the lightbulb increases by it 40 when the door is opened. That sounds mightly low. Is it significant?

Thanks much.
The vent is set properly to work
give me a pic of the controls plz

I'm wondering if the mullion between the fridge and frzr was frozen up?

You got three defrost cycles out of the unit in a row?


Is the fan motor (in the freezer)running fast? or just going round slowly
you should be able to feel the air move and hear it too.

Quote from TBurr View Post :
Cap off any unused pipes, check the drain pipe for pitch and a use proper trap and you're good to go.

There's a handy dandy home repair thread, too.
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Joined Jul 2006
L5: Journeyman
358 Reputation
#45
Quote from BikerEric View Post :
It sounds like a lid switch
P/N: 3949247 [pcappliancerepair.com]

How to change the switch [youtube.com]
Eric,

Thanks for your reply; I watched the video link you sent and some others. Though the scope of the repair is a bit beyond me, I tried to drain the water according to this video LINK [youtube.com]. But a gray plastic piece (about 1" deep and 2-3" long) fell out (see attached photo). What is it?

If I'm going to call a repairman, what do you suggest?

Thanks!

Shirley
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