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Online Appliance and HVACR help for SD members

BikerEric 1,607 May 10, 2008 at 07:37 PM
I will do my best to help any and all in the repair or diagnostic of any appliance.
My expertise comes from 30 years of doing the work and 20 plus of running and owning an appliance and HVACR company.
All I ask of you is to follow these rules and suggestions:


Remember to include your model and serial numbers in your post!

I can't tell you how many times loungers ask me for help repairing their appliance and they either give me a bad model number or none at all. Without a valid model number, I can't look up diagrams or find out anything about your appliance. So, here are:


the Ten Commandments for BikerEric's Online Appliance Help




1. Ye shall read the model number directly off the manufacturer's tag affixed to the appliance., not from the owners guide!

2. Ye shall use these diagrams to help you locate the manufacturer's tag if you are having trouble.

Window Air Conditioners
[partselect.com]
Dishwashers [partselect.com]
Dryer [partselect.com]
Freezer [partselect.com]
Stove or oven [partselect.com]
Refrigerators [partselect.com]
Washing Machine [partselect.com]
Trash Compactor [partselect.com]


3. Ye shall speak of the Brand Name

4. Ye shall mention if the appliance is electric or gas (natural or LPG [propane])

5. Ye shall speak of the configuration of the offending machine ie.side by side, front load

6. Ye shall speak precisely of the problem. not just it's broke , it doesn't work

7. Ye shall understand that I may ask for pictures if possible

8. Ye shall know and understand that I am doing this on line, So I may ask you to do a check on something. I have no idea how handy you are or what your abilities are, So you are doing these checks on your own responsibility. If you feel that it is beyond your ability , PLEASE let me know! BikerEric nor SlickDeals assumes any responsibility for your aptitude or abilities

9. Ye shall not blame BE if his diagnostics might be not be correct

10. Ye shall offer up thy praises in the form of reps or better yet as a donation to a local charity

11. Ye shall keep this tread "chit-chat" free and on topic

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

BikerEric's Online Guide to buying or replacing Major Appliances and HVACR


Please understand that I am very opinionated about brands and manufacturers . My opinions come my experience on working on these units and my dealing with the manufacturers. I scan the newspaper ads weekly to see who has the best price for the best products! I am not a pricing service. I do not work for or have any support from the manufacturers or from the dealers!


1 Ye shall explain what appliance you are replacing

2 Ye shall explain in detail what you would like to buy or purchase

3 Ye shall understand that my questions to you ( while seemingly personal) are to help you realize whether an appliance will work for you.



Ahem!
Ahem again


Current Appliance Rebates and Forms

Appliance Recalls updated when recalls are announced.

Links to repairs:
Frozen Drain Line
Cleaning a Condensing Unit
Cleaning you refrigerator's fan and coil
Testing Whirlpool Modular Style IceMaker
Why BE does NOT recommend Front Load Washing Machines
Replace door cam on sxs refrigerator door
6 Ways to avoid appliance problems
How to replace a Kenmore/Whirlpool/Roper/KitchenAid/Kirkland Automatic Washing Machine Coupler
How to install a Kenmore/Whirlpool/KitchenAid/Kirkland Automatic Washing Machine Lid Switch
The back of a whirlpool electric dryer [applianceaid.com]
How to replace the defrost heater(s) , defrost termination tstat and defrost timer in a GE SxS refrigerator
still under construction

July 12, 2010, 3:24 pm: System Notice: This thread has been automatically renewed after reaching a post limit. Most of its content has been moved to this thread for reference purposes.

1,192 Comments

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#46
[QUOTE=BikerEric;30943238]pretty much any brand will do.

Thank you.
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#47
Quote from shirleyuguest View Post :
Eric,

Thanks for your reply; I watched the video link you sent and some others. Though the scope of the repair is a bit beyond me, I tried to drain the water according to this video LINK [youtube.com]. But a gray plastic piece (about 1" deep and 2-3" long) fell out (see attached photo). What is it?

If I'm going to call a repairman, what do you suggest?

Thanks!

Shirley
The part is from the switch ( that is broken for sure)
I would expect to pay about $130 ish for the repair
Are you a member of Angie's List?
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#48
Quote from BikerEric View Post :
The part is from the switch ( that is broken for sure)
I would expect to pay about $130 ish for the repair
Are you a member of Angie's List?
Eric,

No, I'm not a member of Angie's list. Is that a way to be more sure of repairmen?

I was quoted $130 by a local appliance repair to come out and replace the lid switch. Others had quoted $90 just to come out without rolling that into the total cost, so I kept looking and found this repair shop.

Thanks!

Shirley
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#49
Quote from BikerEric View Post :
The vent is set properly to work
give me a pic of the controls plz

I'm wondering if the mullion between the fridge and frzr was frozen up?

You got three defrost cycles out of the unit in a row?


Is the fan motor (in the freezer)running fast? or just going round slowly
you should be able to feel the air move and hear it too.
Will upload photo later today

Mullion area (horizontal part between freezer and refrigerator) was frozen, for sure. I aimed a space heater into the freezer and the mullion was cold to the touch for a very long time. Lots of water dripped from the small openings in the freezer ceiling that receive the gutter like removable trim strip by the door. I ran the defrost cycle in the refrigerator three times manually while using a hair dryer and then a space heater to "defrost" the box fully. The timer appears to work as it should.

Fan in freezer blowing air into the refrigerator seems to be working fine, but not much air is actually coming from the refrigerator vent. I think the airflow is the same as always, but don't know for sure.

My thaw efforts helped slightly. The freezer still maintains a good temp and the fridge is at 47.
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#50
Quote from shirleyuguest View Post :
Eric,

No, I'm not a member of Angie's list. Is that a way to be more sure of repairmen?

I was quoted $130 by a local appliance repair to come out and replace the lid switch. Others had quoted $90 just to come out without rolling that into the total cost, so I kept looking and found this repair shop.

Thanks!

Shirley
130 is about what I charge ( and I'm cheaper than anyone else in my area)
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#51
Aargh! The refrigerator is getting warm again. Came home and it was reading 54. Darn thing. I really gotta do something about this ASAP.
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#52
Quote from jogalot View Post :
Aargh! The refrigerator is getting warm again. Came home and it was reading 54. Darn thing. I really gotta do something about this ASAP.
I'm really at a loss here , with out being able to actually see and touch the unit.
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#53
Repped for replying to my ?s re: my Whirlpool washing machine!
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#54
I have an Amana side by side refrig./ freezer model# sxd26vw. w/ ice maker. I got it used so I don't have the manual. My question is- Is the ice maker light supposed to be on all the time? (it does turn off when I open the freezer door and the freezer light goes on). If not where might I get a manual to trouble shoot
SOLVED there was a switch under the plastic bezel around ice dispenser
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#55
Quote from dollarbill View Post :
I have an Amana side by side refrig./ freezer model# sxd26vw. w/ ice maker. I got it used so I don't have the manual. My question is- Is the ice maker light supposed to be on all the time? (it does turn off when I open the freezer door and the freezer light goes on). If not where might I get a manual to trouble shoot
I assume you are talking the I/M light inside the freezer, No it isn't supposed to be on all the time
unscrew the bulb for now and I;ll see if I can find a manual
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#56
Quote from oynot View Post :
I had a problem similar to yours, although my first generation machine's a lot older than yours...
Quote from BikerEric View Post :
sud




f35


f20

thanx 4 ur help. i was running many clean washer cycles, rinse & drain cycles...whatever i could get to run a least for a bit b4 it errored out. then after may times i checked the drain again and found a small sock tie pictured in attachment. i guess it eventually got pushed through. i ran so far one regular full cycle and on the 2nd now. lets hope that was all thanx & repped!
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#57
Quote from BikerEric View Post :
I'm really at a loss here , with out being able to actually see and touch the unit.
I can see and touch it and am at a loss.

Using a killowatt device, I saw that the defrost cycle was drawing some 600 watts for a few minutes, then it shut off and drew nothing for maybe 12 minutes until the refrigerator cycle came on. Could this simply be a bad bimetallic switch? I removed it and placed it in a cup of ice water and it hasn't showed any continuity.

What would you suggest I do next?

It was less than a week since doing a full defrost and this is what I had:





For larger image: http://i29.tinypic.com/jgnkvc.jpg
http://i30.tinypic.com/ipsb5e.jpg

Thanks, BE
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#58
I have a general question. I just moved into a new house and the AC unit is about 15 years old. I dont know when the last time it was serviced. Its been pretty hot here recently and I am wondering what temp the air should be that is coming out of my vents? It seems to be not as cold as it should but I would like to avoid a service call if its in the "Normal" range for a unit of that age. Any help here is appreciated.
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#59
Quote from jogalot View Post :
I can see and touch it and am at a loss.

Using a killowatt device, I saw that the defrost cycle was drawing some 600 watts for a few minutes, then it shut off and drew nothing for maybe 12 minutes until the refrigerator cycle came on. Could this simply be a bad bimetallic switch? I removed it and placed it in a cup of ice water and it hasn't showed any continuity.

What would you suggest I do next?

It was less than a week since doing a full defrost and this is what I had:





For larger image: http://i29.tinypic.com/jgnkvc.jpg
http://i30.tinypic.com/ipsb5e.jpg

Thanks, BE
I'm thinking the timer or the bimetal is shorting the defrost cycle ( typically a defrost heater time is about 10 minutes ish)
I'm going to guess bimetal and/or timer
I'd go with both


Quote from LiquidRetro View Post :
I have a general question. I just moved into a new house and the AC unit is about 15 years old. I dont know when the last time it was serviced. Its been pretty hot here recently and I am wondering what temp the air should be that is coming out of my vents? It seems to be not as cold as it should but I would like to avoid a service call if its in the "Normal" range for a unit of that age. Any help here is appreciated.
you need to do a delta t test

You need to measure the air temp into the air handler and then the air temp out
you should have about 20 to 25 degrees difference


ideally the interior ambient temp will be about 20 degrees cooler then outside ambient
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#60
Quote from BikerEric View Post :
I'm thinking the timer or the bimetal is shorting the defrost cycle ( typically a defrost heater time is about 10 minutes ish)
I'm going to guess bimetal and/or timer
I'd go with both
I found the bimetal unclipped from the freezer line, and after securing it to the coil waited several hours for a defrost cycle to take place.

I was monitoring it with a killowatt device to tell when the heater kicked in. When the bimetal caused the heater to turn off, and before the timer caused the compressor to start again, I unplugged the box and removed the rear freezer panel. With an infrared thermometer we saw the bimetal was around 50 degrees. There was still some frost present on the coil, top center area. Is that a normal cycle?

Was thinking if the bimetal was mounted somewhere else, ie not on the curved side of the highest coil and in a direct path of the heater, that the defrost cycle would last longer. Even though it won't clip on, should I place it on the top center of the coil, or where's the most effective place to mount it?

I'd still like to replace the bimetal only because the clip doesn't appear secure. The refrigerator's service sheet calls for a 2183072 which is listed as being interchangeable with 4387503, 2149641, 2149643, 2163894, 2172694, 2182380, 2221677, 4343917, 4387503 and the one the local store has which is 4387490. Is one preferable?

Thanks for leading me in the right direction. Would like to replace the bimetal today and look forward to your response.
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