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Online Appliance and HVACR help for SD members

BikerEric 1,607 May 10, 2008 at 07:37 PM
I will do my best to help any and all in the repair or diagnostic of any appliance.
My expertise comes from 30 years of doing the work and 20 plus of running and owning an appliance and HVACR company.
All I ask of you is to follow these rules and suggestions:


Remember to include your model and serial numbers in your post!

I can't tell you how many times loungers ask me for help repairing their appliance and they either give me a bad model number or none at all. Without a valid model number, I can't look up diagrams or find out anything about your appliance. So, here are:


the Ten Commandments for BikerEric's Online Appliance Help




1. Ye shall read the model number directly off the manufacturer's tag affixed to the appliance., not from the owners guide!

2. Ye shall use these diagrams to help you locate the manufacturer's tag if you are having trouble.

Window Air Conditioners
[partselect.com]
Dishwashers [partselect.com]
Dryer [partselect.com]
Freezer [partselect.com]
Stove or oven [partselect.com]
Refrigerators [partselect.com]
Washing Machine [partselect.com]
Trash Compactor [partselect.com]


3. Ye shall speak of the Brand Name

4. Ye shall mention if the appliance is electric or gas (natural or LPG [propane])

5. Ye shall speak of the configuration of the offending machine ie.side by side, front load

6. Ye shall speak precisely of the problem. not just it's broke , it doesn't work

7. Ye shall understand that I may ask for pictures if possible

8. Ye shall know and understand that I am doing this on line, So I may ask you to do a check on something. I have no idea how handy you are or what your abilities are, So you are doing these checks on your own responsibility. If you feel that it is beyond your ability , PLEASE let me know! BikerEric nor SlickDeals assumes any responsibility for your aptitude or abilities

9. Ye shall not blame BE if his diagnostics might be not be correct

10. Ye shall offer up thy praises in the form of reps or better yet as a donation to a local charity

11. Ye shall keep this tread "chit-chat" free and on topic

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

BikerEric's Online Guide to buying or replacing Major Appliances and HVACR


Please understand that I am very opinionated about brands and manufacturers . My opinions come my experience on working on these units and my dealing with the manufacturers. I scan the newspaper ads weekly to see who has the best price for the best products! I am not a pricing service. I do not work for or have any support from the manufacturers or from the dealers!


1 Ye shall explain what appliance you are replacing

2 Ye shall explain in detail what you would like to buy or purchase

3 Ye shall understand that my questions to you ( while seemingly personal) are to help you realize whether an appliance will work for you.



Ahem!
Ahem again


Current Appliance Rebates and Forms

Appliance Recalls updated when recalls are announced.

Links to repairs:
Frozen Drain Line
Cleaning a Condensing Unit
Cleaning you refrigerator's fan and coil
Testing Whirlpool Modular Style IceMaker
Why BE does NOT recommend Front Load Washing Machines
Replace door cam on sxs refrigerator door
6 Ways to avoid appliance problems
How to replace a Kenmore/Whirlpool/Roper/KitchenAid/Kirkland Automatic Washing Machine Coupler
How to install a Kenmore/Whirlpool/KitchenAid/Kirkland Automatic Washing Machine Lid Switch
The back of a whirlpool electric dryer [applianceaid.com]
How to replace the defrost heater(s) , defrost termination tstat and defrost timer in a GE SxS refrigerator
still under construction

July 12, 2010, 3:24 pm: System Notice: This thread has been automatically renewed after reaching a post limit. Most of its content has been moved to this thread for reference purposes.

1,192 Comments

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Joined Aug 2004
Ponderer of imponderables
1,607 Reputation
Original Poster
#61
Quote from jogalot View Post :
I found the bimetal unclipped from the freezer line, and after securing it to the coil waited several hours for a defrost cycle to take place.

I was monitoring it with a killowatt device to tell when the heater kicked in. When the bimetal caused the heater to turn off, and before the timer caused the compressor to start again, I unplugged the box and removed the rear freezer panel. With an infrared thermometer we saw the bimetal was around 50 degrees. There was still some frost present on the coil, top center area. Is that a normal cycle?

Was thinking if the bimetal was mounted somewhere else, ie not on the curved side of the highest coil and in a direct path of the heater, that the defrost cycle would last longer. Even though it won't clip on, should I place it on the top center of the coil, or where's the most effective place to mount it?

I'd still like to replace the bimetal only because the clip doesn't appear secure. The refrigerator's service sheet calls for a 2183072 which is listed as being interchangeable with 4387503, 2149641, 2149643, 2163894, 2172694, 2182380, 2221677, 4343917, 4387503 and the one the local store has which is 4387490. Is one preferable?

Thanks for leading me in the right direction. Would like to replace the bimetal today and look forward to your response.
First you should get the proper bimetal! As long as the specs say it is interchangeable that is ok

the bimetal typically clips to the aluminum coil at the top where the copper and aluminum meet ( on the aluminum though) anywhere else is going to give wrong defrosts.

You may want to try the original bimetal and clip it in the right place (see above) before buying anything.
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Joined Apr 2010
Been there, doing that.
72 Reputation
#62
I've mounted it there (just after the bend, on the aluminum before the copper and with the switch part facing the back left corner of the box) and will keep fingers crossed. I'll grab a new bimetal Monday, but in the meantime the old one seems to be trying -- hopefully now that' it's in the right place even properly.

It's on the right track... have correct temperatures and it's mostly defrosting on cycles. You have no idea how much we wanted to keep this box going; the idea of a drawer freezer or other new unappealing designs really had us shivering. Per your request #10, and as a thanks for all your help with this, consider it done and for the benefit of a very active local robotics team under the umbrella of http://www.usfirst.org/

Still confuzzled by the refrigerator cold/warm setting though. It doesn't seem to make a significant difference at all monitoring the temp of water in a cup, and the baffle that allows more cold air in is wide open at the warmest setting and closed at the coldest setting. That defies logic. Is it backwards? The freezer thermostat for sure makes a difference in the refrigerator and freezer temps. How does the refrigerator cold/warm dial work?
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Joined Aug 2004
Ponderer of imponderables
1,607 Reputation
Original Poster
#63
Quote from jogalot View Post :
I've mounted it there (just after the bend, on the aluminum before the copper and with the switch part facing the back left corner of the box) and will keep fingers crossed. I'll grab a new bimetal Monday, but in the meantime the old one seems to be trying -- hopefully now that' it's in the right place even properly.

It's on the right track... have correct temperatures and it's mostly defrosting on cycles. You have no idea how much we wanted to keep this box going; the idea of a drawer freezer or other new unappealing designs really had us shivering. Per your request #10, and as a thanks for all your help with this, consider it done and for the benefit of a very active local robotics team under the umbrella of http://www.usfirst.org/

Still confuzzled by the refrigerator cold/warm setting though. It doesn't seem to make a significant difference at all monitoring the temp of water in a cup, and the baffle that allows more cold air in is wide open at the warmest setting and closed at the coldest setting. That defies logic. Is it backwards? The freezer thermostat for sure makes a difference in the refrigerator and freezer temps. How does the refrigerator cold/warm dial work?
1st Thanx for the donation to usfirst, My oldest son was in that in high school and ended up going to Fla for the finals in2002

For this unit
the compressor runs off of the ref control (it actually has the t-stat bulb connected
so the refrigerator control is the main temp control

freezer warmer/cooler opens a damper and lets more/less air into the ref compartment

ie. if you want the freezer warmer ~~ set frezr control to warmer (more air will leave the freezer compartment)

hope this clarifies...
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Joined Dec 2005
n00b extraordinaire 8^)~
2,182 Reputation
Sr. QA
#64
BikerEric, help please Please

Seemingly dead refrigerator/freezer
Whirlpool no frost side by side.
Model# EED192PKNR1
SN# S95117199

The refrigerator is at what was my mother's home. She passed away a couple of months ago and we have a friend staying in the house while we decide what to do with it. So I'm getting this information 2nd hand for tonight, but apparently the unit stopped working sometime last night and wasn't noticed until this morning.

I had another friend that's sort of a handyman that lives nearby the house take a look at it. He said that it sounds like the compressor is running (he could hear the motor), but the fan isn't. The freezer part doesn't seem to be working at all. Neither does the refrigerator side, at least no fan runs when you open the door, but the fridge side is still a little cool at this moment, about 50 degrees. There was no frost buildup that he could see in either the freezer nor the fridge side.

Unfortunately I can't get over to the house tonight to check on it myself, but I'm hoping to get over there sometime tomorrow. I am planning on having a repairman out on Monday if I can, because I can't fix it myself. I was hoping that you could maybe give me an idea of what might possibly be wrong and/or what to look for, either myself or when I do get a local repair man out.

Hopefully I'll be able to check back in on this thread later tonight but we have lightning storms moving in and I may have to shut the computer down for the night. So if I don't reply to any questions this evening (if you by chance see this post tonight), then I'll definitely check back tomorrow.

Thank you for any help or insight that you can give me. Smilie
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Joined Feb 2006
nyan nyan
45,394 Reputation
Pro Sr. Deal Editor
#65
Hi Eric the greatSmilie

I lost power today in my house cause i had AC on and tried to print.

I reset the fuses but now my refrigerator's light is not turning on inside and it's not cooling/freezing. I tried unplugging it/replugging it, but no effect.

Do you think it shorted out?

thanks!
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#66
is the outlet getting power? my first thought would be missed one of the breakers
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Joined Aug 2004
Ponderer of imponderables
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Original Poster
#67
Quote from widgit View Post :
BikerEric, help please Please

Seemingly dead refrigerator/freezer
Whirlpool no frost side by side.
Model# EED192PKNR1
SN# S95117199

The refrigerator is at what was my mother's home. She passed away a couple of months ago and we have a friend staying in the house while we decide what to do with it. So I'm getting this information 2nd hand for tonight, but apparently the unit stopped working sometime last night and wasn't noticed until this morning.

I had another friend that's sort of a handyman that lives nearby the house take a look at it. He said that it sounds like the compressor is running (he could hear the motor), but the fan isn't. The freezer part doesn't seem to be working at all. Neither does the refrigerator side, at least no fan runs when you open the door, but the fridge side is still a little cool at this moment, about 50 degrees. There was no frost buildup that he could see in either the freezer nor the fridge side.

Unfortunately I can't get over to the house tonight to check on it myself, but I'm hoping to get over there sometime tomorrow. I am planning on having a repairman out on Monday if I can, because I can't fix it myself. I was hoping that you could maybe give me an idea of what might possibly be wrong and/or what to look for, either myself or when I do get a local repair man out.

Hopefully I'll be able to check back in on this thread later tonight but we have lightning storms moving in and I may have to shut the computer down for the night. So if I don't reply to any questions this evening (if you by chance see this post tonight), then I'll definitely check back tomorrow.

Thank you for any help or insight that you can give me. Smilie
If the compressor is running, the mullion ( the strip between the fridge and frzr will be very hot!)
If this is the case , you need to pull the unit from the wall
remove the back panel
is the fan running?
is the compressor running?
is the comp hot?
or cool?

UNPLUG UNIT FROM WALL
vacuum all the dust out
from the front
from the rear

Plug unit back in
see if the fan starts to run
if not
try to give it a spin by hand
if it goes
you need a fan motor
if it doesn't
you need a fan motor
for temporary service
you can place a small box fan behind the unit and have it blow air under the unit ( with the panel off)
until you can get it fixed

The refrigerator is from 1990
the fan motor is part number 833697 msrp about $50
total job should be $150 to $170


if the compressor isn't running
I would spend the money to repair the unit.
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Joined Aug 2004
Ponderer of imponderables
1,607 Reputation
Original Poster
#68
Quote from iconian View Post :
Hi Eric the greatSmilie

I lost power today in my house cause i had AC on and tried to print.

I reset the fuses but now my refrigerator's light is not turning on inside and it's not cooling/freezing. I tried unplugging it/replugging it, but no effect.

Do you think it shorted out?

thanks!
Quote from stufine View Post :
is the outlet getting power? my first thought would be missed one of the breakers
Check your circuit breakers again
And check all the GFCI outlets in your house too.
The outlet may be tied to a GFCI in the kitchen or even a bathroom.


other than that
Model and Serial please
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Joined Feb 2006
nyan nyan
45,394 Reputation
Pro Sr. Deal Editor
#69
i reset all of them when it had happeend, only outlets like that are in bathroom and kitchen. i reset ones in kitchen but bathroom didnt lose power, just kitchen/living room.

its a kenmore model # 253.61532804
serial: ba90918120

i can only do so much since it's land lords.
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#70
is the living room still without power?
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Joined Feb 2006
nyan nyan
45,394 Reputation
Pro Sr. Deal Editor
#71
Quote from stufine View Post :
is the living room still without power?
no i didnt lose power in the apartment, my bedrooms had power...just breakers kicked in cause i have pc./ac./tv. + on and tried to print

i reset breakers and everything, but fridge came back
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Joined Dec 2005
n00b extraordinaire 8^)~
2,182 Reputation
Sr. QA
#72
Quote from BikerEric View Post :
If the compressor is running, the mullion ( the strip between the fridge and frzr will be very hot!)
If this is the case , you need to pull the unit from the wall
remove the back panel
is the fan running?
is the compressor running?
is the comp hot?
or cool?

UNPLUG UNIT FROM WALL
vacuum all the dust out
from the front
from the rear

Plug unit back in
see if the fan starts to run
if not
try to give it a spin by hand
if it goes
you need a fan motor
if it doesn't
you need a fan motor
for temporary service
you can place a small box fan behind the unit and have it blow air under the unit ( with the panel off)
until you can get it fixed

The refrigerator is from 1990
the fan motor is part number 833697 msrp about $50
total job should be $150 to $170


if the compressor isn't running
I would spend the money to repair the unit
.
Hi BE, thanks for the quick reply Smilie

I'll hopefully get out to the house later this afternoon and try to check out all of the above if I can.

Just to clarify in my mind: You said that if the compressor is not running "you would spend the money to repair the unit". So if it turns out that the compressor is bad, do you mean that it would be worth it to spend the money to repair it?

Also, since it seems the unit is apparently from 1990, if it's just the fan motor, is it worth it to repair it?

Given the age of the unit, I'm just worried that something else might go wrong with it, and so am trying to figure out if we should try to find a new unit instead of just repairing this one (don't really want to buy a new one if it is worth fixing this one). Help?

Thanks again Smilie
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Joined Aug 2004
Ponderer of imponderables
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Original Poster
#73
Quote from iconian View Post :
no i didnt lose power in the apartment, my bedrooms had power...just breakers kicked in cause i have pc./ac./tv. + on and tried to print

i reset breakers and everything, but fridge came back
no fuses on fridge ... time call in the LL
Quote from widgit View Post :
Hi BE, thanks for the quick reply Smilie

I'll hopefully get out to the house later this afternoon and try to check out all of the above if I can.

Just to clarify in my mind: You said that if the compressor is not running "you would spend the money to repair the unit". So if it turns out that the compressor is bad, do you mean that it would be worth it to spend the money to repair it?

Also, since it seems the unit is apparently from 1990, if it's just the fan motor, is it worth it to repair it?

Given the age of the unit, I'm just worried that something else might go wrong with it, and so am trying to figure out if we should try to find a new unit instead of just repairing this one (don't really want to buy a new one if it is worth fixing this one). Help?

Thanks again Smilie
I typed wrong! I would not spend any more than the fan repair to repair the unit.
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nyan nyan
45,394 Reputation
Pro Sr. Deal Editor
#74
Quote from BikerEric View Post :
no fuses on fridge ... time call in the LL


I typed wrong! I would not spend any more than the fan repair to repair the unit.
tomorow. i thought so

thanks brother!
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Joined Apr 2010
Been there, doing that.
72 Reputation
#75
About that fridge that kept frosting over... I installed a new bimetal 4387503 and it doubled the defrosting time from about 5 minutes to about 11 minutes. And after watching it for a few days, the frost is mostly clearing and the temperatures have good. This appears to be a success!

Would like to replace the 10 hour timer as well, just for good measure. I don't mind replacing the timer with one that'll run defrost cycles more often; which timer would you recommend to replace a 2162052?

On another question, how reliable are those yellow energy sticker annual cost estimates? I know the rates need to be more than doubled to for this area (Boston, after all's said and done, my bill is 26 cents per KwH vs the 10.6 cents on the stickers) . Labels for refrigerators I was looking at before fixing the one I have were showing some $61 annual operating cost (~$132 for Boston) and the killawatt meter I have connected to my old fridge shows an annual operating cost is $336. The difference is just over $200 annually. Could it really be that much? As a sidenote, we've been in a heat wave and the kitchen is sweltering.
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