Online Appliance and HVACR help for SD members

[BikerEric]

I will do my best to help any and all in the repair or diagnostic of any appliance.
My expertise comes from 30 years of doing the work and 20 plus of running and owning an appliance and HVACR company.
All I ask of you is to follow these rules and suggestions:


Remember to include your model and serial numbers in your post!

I can't tell you how many times loungers ask me for help repairing their appliance and they either give me a bad model number or none at all. Without a valid model number, I can't look up diagrams or find out anything about your appliance. So, here are:


the Ten Commandments for BikerEric's Online Appliance Help



1. Ye shall read the model number directly off the manufacturer's tag affixed to the appliance., not from the owners guide!

2. Ye shall use these diagrams to help you locate the manufacturer's tag if you are having trouble.

Window Air Conditioners (http://www.partselect.com/repair.aspx?appliance=model-number-locator&part=2)
Dishwashers (http://www.partselect.com/repair.aspx?appliance=model-number-locator&part=4)
Dryer (http://www.partselect.com/repair.aspx?appliance=model-number-locator&part=5)
Freezer (http://www.partselect.com/repair.aspx?appliance=model-number-locator&part=6)
Stove or oven (http://www.partselect.com/repair.aspx?appliance=model-number-locator&part=8)
Refrigerators (http://www.partselect.com/repair.aspx?appliance=model-number-locator&part=9)
Washing Machine (http://www.partselect.com/repair.aspx?appliance=model-number-locator&part=11)
Trash Compactor (http://www.partselect.com/repair.aspx?appliance=model-number-locator&part=10)


3. Ye shall speak of the Brand Name

4. Ye shall mention if the appliance is electric or gas (natural or LPG [propane])

5. Ye shall speak of the configuration of the offending machine ie.side by side, front load

6. Ye shall speak precisely of the problem. not just it's broke , it doesn't work

7. Ye shall understand that I may ask for pictures if possible

8. Ye shall know and understand that I am doing this on line, So I may ask you to do a check on something. I have no idea how handy you are or what your abilities are, So you are doing these checks on your own responsibility. If you feel that it is beyond your ability , PLEASE let me know! BikerEric nor SlickDeals assumes any responsibility for your aptitude or abilities

9. Ye shall not blame BE if his diagnostics might be not be correct

10. Ye shall offer up thy praises in the form of reps or better yet as a donation to a local charity

11. Ye shall keep this tread "chit-chat" free and on topic

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

BikerEric's Online Guide to buying or replacing Major Appliances and HVACR

Please understand that I am very opinionated about brands and manufacturers . My opinions come my experience on working on these units and my dealing with the manufacturers. I scan the newspaper ads weekly to see who has the best price for the best products! I am not a pricing service. I do not work for or have any support from the manufacturers or from the dealers!


1 Ye shall explain what appliance you are replacing

2 Ye shall explain in detail what you would like to buy or purchase

3 Ye shall understand that my questions to you ( while seemingly personal) are to help you realize whether an appliance will work for you.



Ahem! (http://forums.slickdeals.net/showthread.php?sduid=21045&t=1103490)
Ahem again (http://slickdeals.net/forums/showthread.php?p=26041802#post26041802)


Current Appliance Rebates and Forms (http://slickdeals.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1809225)

Appliance Recalls (http://slickdeals.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1525449)updated when recalls are announced.

Links to repairs:
Frozen Drain Line (http://forums.slickdeals.net/showpost.php?p=11292684&postcount=9)
Cleaning a Condensing Unit (http://forums.slickdeals.net/showpost.php?p=11380347&postcount=38)
Cleaning you refrigerator's fan and coil (http://forums.slickdeals.net/showpost.php?p=11380347&postcount=38)
Testing Whirlpool Modular Style IceMaker (http://forums.slickdeals.net/showpost.php?p=15116370&postcount=745)
Why BE does NOT recommend Front Load Washing Machines (http://slickdeals.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1707041)
Replace door cam on sxs refrigerator door (http://slickdeals.net/forums/showpost.php?p=26619057&postcount=2262)
6 Ways to avoid appliance problems (http://forums.slickdeals.net/showthread.php?sduid=21045&t=1568825)
How to replace a Kenmore/Whirlpool/Roper/KitchenAid/Kirkland Automatic Washing Machine Coupler (http://slickdeals.net/forums/showpost.php?p=26128930&postcount=2108)
How to install a Kenmore/Whirlpool/KitchenAid/Kirkland Automatic Washing Machine Lid Switch (http://slickdeals.net/forums/showpost.php?p=27821212&postcount=2407)
The back of a whirlpool electric dryer (http://www.applianceaid.com/animates/wpdry8.JPG)
How to replace the defrost heater(s) , defrost termination tstat and defrost timer in a GE SxS refrigerator (http://archive.slickdeals.net/showpost.php?p=11074068&postcount=81)
still under construction

July 12, 2010, 3:24 pm: System Notice: This thread has been automatically renewed after reaching a post limit. Most of its content has been moved to this thread (http://slickdeals.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2123322) for reference purposes.

[wikipost]

:soccer:

Please have model and serial number available for assistance.

donation to local charity optional, but preferred.





This post can be edited by most users to provide up-to-date information about developments of this thread based on user responses, and user findings. Feel free to add, change or remove information shown here as it becomes available. This includes new coupons, rebates, ideas, thread summary, and similar items.

Once a Thread Wiki is added to a thread, "Create Wiki" button will disappear. If you would like to learn more about Thread Wiki feature, click here (http://forums.slickdeals.net/showthread.php?t=530283).

[maxiemag]

Thanks for your help with my freezer problem
Now my upstairs refrigerator is leaking water from the top freezer down to the bottom refrigerator. I thought maybe it was because I put a lot of stuff in as soon as I realized my big freezer wasn't working. I cleaned it all out and threw some stuff away. There is still water leaking and then it freezes under the fruit bins. I have not purchased a freezer yet and am wondering if I should replace this first. It is a Whirlpool that I bought in 1998 when I moved into this house. Thanks!

[BikerEric]

first off rtfm lol

It is a fairly easy repair
model and serial please
and if possible a picture of the inside of the freezer compartmen

[maxiemag]

first off rtfm lol


Sorry what does that mean???

Oh read the manual?

[Q-Bert]

Thanks Q-Bert and BE.

I got the fuse from Radioshack this morning. 4 for $3. Replaced the fuse and everything works. I however feel that it will blow in a couple of days if not earlier because of the door switch....let's see...

How do I align the door so that it doesn't need an extra nudge to "click" in place?

Found some tech sheets for you http://www.servicematters.com/docs/wiring/Tech%20Sheet%20-%208184997.pdf

Nothing about aligning the switches. You'll probably have to remove the panel and see if the mounting screws for those switches are tight and try movng them around to see where they work best.

[Kiliam]

Suds after a cycle and your other comments at first indicate a drainage problem. That would also account for dirty dishes. Can you see the flow (gush) if your peer into the disposal as it's draining? If there's a trickle, well, you know what to do.

Suggest if that's not it that you find a manual online or something generic or specific in a repair manual at the library to guide you through the process of manually cleaning the filters and looking for an obstruction.
exploded parts:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getSubComp.pd?modelNumber=66516382300&productCategoryId=0130000&brandId=0582&brandDescription=KENMORE&modelName=UNDERCOUNTER-DISHWASHER&diagramPageId=00008&componentDescription=PUMP%20AND%20MOTOR%20PARTS&documentId=K0503060&blt=06

It could be a failing pump or something else mechanical, but since you indicated that all seemed normal just have to suspect the drainage.

For the fun of it, take a look at the spray arms and see if there's any crud trapped inside the holes where the water sprays from. Plastic (yes, in the best of conditions fragments of Saran Wrap and similar can get in there), melon seeds and other things can block the drain passageways... if there's a trace of anything in the spray arm it's just a hint.

Servicing most units can look intimidating, but if a repairman can do it, well, you can too. And it's a lot more fun than hiring someone, unless of course they're like BE.

I've been out of town for a while, so just saw your reply. Thanks again for the advice, we are going to dive into it this weekend and see what we can figure out. Appreciate your suggestions...

[BikerEric]

Found some tech sheets for you http://www.servicematters.com/docs/wiring/Tech%20Sheet%20-%208184997.pdf

Nothing about aligning the switches. You'll probably have to remove the panel and see if the mounting screws for those switches are tight and try movng them around to see where they work best.

bingo
touch and feel
no actual template

[bestdeal]

Where can I find cheap parts besides SearsPart?

I remembered BE answered it before, but I forgot, and it must be buried in somewhere else in this thread.

[BikerEric]

Where can I find cheap parts besides SearsPart?

I remembered BE answered it before, but I forgot, and it must be buried in somewhere else in this thread.

http://www.pcappliancerepair.com/index.html

http://www.partselect.com/

http://www.partadvantage.com/store

[Pig]

Found some tech sheets for you http://www.servicematters.com/docs/wiring/Tech%20Sheet%20-%208184997.pdf (http://slickdeals.net/?&u2=http://www.servicematters.com/docs/wiring/Tech%20Sheet%20-%208184997.pdf)

Nothing about aligning the switches. You'll probably have to remove the panel and see if the mounting screws for those switches are tight and try movng them around to see where they work best.

bingo
touch and feel
no actual template

Thanks Q-Bert and BE. The microwave has been working pretty well ever since I replaced the fuse and pushed around the door locks a little bit. No new blown fuses....yet!

:worship:

[jogalot]

Whirlpool EB21DK bottom freezer 21CF 1994 refrigerator, freezer is fine but the refrigerator is 55 at best regardless of the temp dial setting. It's been damp and raining, the humidity switch is turned on.

I removed the panel on the back of the freezer and defrosted the area around the fan that leads to the refrigerator. It was maybe 20% solid ice around it. There was some other ice in the area behind the panel, notably in the upper left corner by some wire connectors, but nothing much significant. I did notice the roof of the freezer was dripping a lot, especially towards the front where there's a removable trim piece resembling a gutter strip.

What would you suggest?

[amps]

BikerEric, sorry I didn't go through this whole thread as I would have to rip my hair out. Do you know about central air conditioner units? My cooling in the house hasn't been great so I checked the attic for air leaks in the duct, found one, fixed it. Replacing my air filter I noticed a wire not attached to anything looks like it go to a motor, so I took pics. Before I post figured I'd ask before wasting bandwidth with pics of what I'm talking about.

[bestdeal]

http://www.pcappliancerepair.com/index.html

http://www.partselect.com/

http://www.partadvantage.com/store

Thanks, could you please put these info in the first page?

[BikerEric]

Whirlpool EB21DK bottom freezer 21CF 1994 refrigerator, freezer is fine but the refrigerator is 55 at best regardless of the temp dial setting. It's been damp and raining, the humidity switch is turned on.

I removed the panel on the back of the freezer and defrosted the area around the fan that leads to the refrigerator. It was maybe 20% solid ice around it. There was some other ice in the area behind the panel, notably in the upper left corner by some wire connectors, but nothing much significant. I did notice the roof of the freezer was dripping a lot, especially towards the front where there's a removable trim piece resembling a gutter strip.

What would you suggest?

was the fan running?
was the coil frozen over, almost entirely?

BikerEric, sorry I didn't go through this whole thread as I would have to rip my hair out. Do you know about central air conditioner units? My cooling in the house hasn't been great so I checked the attic for air leaks in the duct, found one, fixed it. Replacing my air filter I noticed a wire not attached to anything looks like it go to a motor, so I took pics. Before I post figured I'd ask before wasting bandwidth with pics of what I'm talking about.

yep! several of us do ac

Thanks, could you please put these info in the first page?

You could put them in the wiki.
I don't think Mr SD wants it to look like we are endorsing one site over the other.

[amps]

Ok, well you will see from both of the pics.... the red wire is just hanging around. I'm getting cold air out of the vents but it just doesn't seem there is enough "pressure". Let me know what you think.

I do appreciate your time.

[stufine]

red=low
blue=med
black=hi
has the air always been kinda low at the vents or new problem?
is this furnace also used for heat?

[amps]

honestly now that I'm thinking about this, my air used to be very good until a couple of years ago when a "motor or blower something" went out and a guy came over and replaced it. Ever since then it's been like this. Yes this unit also does heat but the heat is gas based.

Also, I'm not sure I understand what you mean be the red, blue and black. I'm I supposed to do something? Thanks for the help.

[amps]

Well I read the manual (go figure) and the wiring is correct. I don't use the red wire since I have a gas heater and not electric. White wire goes to common and black goes to the select speed (1-4). It is on 1 which is Hi.

[stufine]

look on the wires from the motor. see that black #1 is going to black on the motor. since the yellow is not connected to anything i'll guess its a universal motor. sometimes people will hook the black to red or blue so it doesn't over blow when heating. no troubles but AC should be HI. one other thing would be to see if rotation of the blower is going the right direction.. you can see the cup in the blades... wait until the blower stops turning...even when you think its barely moving and "I can reach in and stop it" it can tear you up.

[AggieMom]

:facepalm: I think I just killed our microwave. Pretty sure I chose "time cook" instead of "kitchen timer" when I was cooking dinner in the oven. It ran empty for a while. I was listening to a book on MP3 and didn't hear the whir of the magnetron so I completely missed the error. :doh:

It's dead. It's hot. No display at all. No beeps.

GE JE1640WB001
SN SV964087S

Any chance it's salvageable?

[BikerEric]

:facepalm: I think I just killed our microwave. Pretty sure I chose "time cook" instead of "kitchen timer" when I was cooking dinner in the oven. It ran empty for a while. I was listening to a book on MP3 and didn't hear the whir of the magnetron so I completely missed the error. :doh:

It's dead. It's hot. No display at all. No beeps.

GE JE1640WB001
SN SV964087S

Any chance it's salvageable?

http://www.viastuas.net.au/Reflection/Des/Graveside01.jpg

[AggieMom]

:sadbye: Goodbye microwave... it loved to warm stuff up.

Any suggestions on a replacement?

[Blinkielady]

Hi BE! I think I know what you're going to say but I'll ask anyway. I have a GE Spacesaver microwave (Model # JVM1631BB002) that started acting crazy last night for no reason. It started making noise like there was metal in it or something and then started stinking up the whole house with a terrible smell. Don't know if it's still heating food up or not, can't stand the smell. Any idea what's wrong with it? TIA!!

[BikerEric]

:sadbye: Goodbye microwave... it loved to warm stuff up.

Any suggestions on a replacement?
It really doesn't matter.
They all are made in Korea by Sunkyung.
Just look for price or warranty
Look at Lowes or HD and don'r forget the coupon in the moving kit (from the PO)

Hi BE! I think I know what you're going to say but I'll ask anyway. I have a GE Spacesaver microwave (Model # JVM1631BB002) that started acting crazy last night for no reason. It started making noise like there was metal in it or something and then started stinking up the whole house with a terrible smell. Don't know if it's still heating food up or not, can't stand the smell. Any idea what's wrong with it? TIA!!

it sounds like the mag tube is going bad.
The cost to repair is very high compared to replacement of the unit.
see above.

[jogalot]

Whirlpool EB21DK bottom freezer 21CF 1994 refrigerator, freezer is fine but the refrigerator is 55 at best regardless of the temp dial setting. It's been damp and raining, the humidity switch is turned on.

I removed the panel on the back of the freezer and defrosted the area around the fan that leads to the refrigerator. It was maybe 20% solid ice around it. There was some other ice in the area behind the panel, notably in the upper left corner by some wire connectors, but nothing much significant. I did notice the roof of the freezer was dripping a lot, especially towards the front where there's a removable trim piece resembling a gutter strip.

What would you suggest?
was the fan running?
was the coil frozen over, almost entirely?


Fan is running, blades are intact, coil wasn't frozen over but was frosty coat; nothing a quick swipe with the hair dryer couldn't melt.

Food in the fridge is spoiling real fast. Freezer is fine. Tried leaving it unplugged, empty and open several hours to "thaw" and that didn't help. Interestingly, when the fridge is set to the coldest setting food some stuff on the top shelf can freeze (had some frozen veggies there, I placed them near the vent) while the lower part is hardly cold.

[Dr. J]

A couple things:

Our new house has a Samsung mwave SMH9187ST however the "shelf" (metal grate) inside the mwave is missing - where can I find a replacement at a decent cost?

It also has a water softening system with a whole house filter that is supposed to take care of "smell and chlorine". I am looking for replacement cartridges for it. It's Keystone model # CG10 which I can gather is a "giant" housing accepting std 4 1/2" x 9 3/4" filters. My issue is that I don't know the filter cartridge model # and there are many in this size.

[BikerEric]

Whirlpool EB21DK bottom freezer 21CF 1994 refrigerator, freezer is fine but the refrigerator is 55 at best regardless of the temp dial setting. It's been damp and raining, the humidity switch is turned on.

I removed the panel on the back of the freezer and defrosted the area around the fan that leads to the refrigerator. It was maybe 20% solid ice around it. There was some other ice in the area behind the panel, notably in the upper left corner by some wire connectors, but nothing much significant. I did notice the roof of the freezer was dripping a lot, especially towards the front where there's a removable trim piece resembling a gutter strip.

What would you suggest?


Fan is running, blades are intact, coil wasn't frozen over but was frosty coat; nothing a quick swipe with the hair dryer couldn't melt.

Food in the fridge is spoiling real fast. Freezer is fine. Tried leaving it unplugged, empty and open several hours to "thaw" and that didn't help. Interestingly, when the fridge is set to the coldest setting food some stuff on the top shelf can freeze (had some frozen veggies there, I placed them near the vent) while the lower part is hardly cold.

there should be a duct between the ref anf the fridge
see if the damper or flap is open
if not see if you can move it by hand to open

[BikerEric]

A couple things:

Our new house has a Samsung mwave SMH9187ST however the "shelf" (metal grate) inside the mwave is missing - where can I find a replacement at a decent cost?

It also has a water softening system with a whole house filter that is supposed to take care of "smell and chlorine". I am looking for replacement cartridges for it. It's Keystone model # CG10 which I can gather is a "giant" housing accepting std 4 1/2" x 9 3/4" filters. My issue is that I don't know the filter cartridge model # and there are many in this size.

can't help you with the mwave
but for the filter
http://www.keystonefilter.com/
buy direct

[jogalot]

there should be a duct between the ref anf the fridge
see if the damper or flap is open
if not see if you can move it by hand to open

It's apparent the cold air goes via the fan in the freezer to the top of the refrigerator and that that's working OK, and it appears the duct in the back right corner between the freezer and refrigerator is the "return" and that it's open.... but I can't be sure. There's no frost on it. I see where it exits the freezer, but have no idea where it is in the refrigerator part. And I didn't see any damper or flap, but visibility is really limited back there.

I don't know where the duct goes or what it's supposed to be like. What would you suggest?

[Discohai]

Partial frost on a evaporator coil could mean that something funky is going on with your compressor. Maybe a restriction in the lines.

[Snoozer]

error:
suds
f35
f20

kenmore front load
model 110.47781701
serial CSW2608122

today started getting these errors, I unplugged & tried again to no avail. about 1.5 year old. I checked water hose; there apparently is proper water flow & no kinks in hose.

[oynot]

error:
suds
f35
f20

kenmore front load
model 110.47781701
serial CSW2608122

today started getting these errors, I unplugged & tried again to no avail. about 1.5 year old. I checked water hose; there apparently is proper water flow & no kinks in hose.

I had a problem similar to yours, although my first generation machine's a lot older than yours. There are three screws on the front bottom panel. Remove them. You'll see the pump in the center of the bottom plate. Put lots (no, actually more than lots) of towels and stuff under the knob and unscrew it. You'll probably find a clog in there along with lots of cruddy water. Clean everything out, and then look into the hoses with a flashlight to make sure they're open. Replace parts as you found them. Then check the drain hose where it comes out of the back to insure it's not kinked or something like that. Then, if you can, run a cycle without soap just to clear the machine. I though we'd have to replace some sensor part, but doing this clean-out fixed the suds and code issue. I now perform this stinky ritual annually.

Almost forgot, peel back the door gasket at it's lowest point and make sure there's nothing blocking the drain holes. You'll understand description when you look.

[BikerEric]

error:
suds
f35
f20

kenmore front load
model 110.47781701
serial CSW2608122

today started getting these errors, I unplugged & tried again to no avail. about 1.5 year old. I checked water hose; there apparently is proper water flow & no kinks in hose.

sud
SUDS LOCK (Overdose of Detergent detected during the Wash Cycle)

The motor control unit senses a suds lock condition by analyzing the current draw on the drive motor. If "Sud" is displayed a potential suds lock is detected. This may signify a bad pump, an extra heavy load, excessive detergent, or excessive suds.
* If too much detergent was used, run the unit through a Rinse/Spin cycle, then a Normal cycle,
without adding any detergent. This should clear the unit of the excess detergent.
* Check the drain hose and make sure it is not plugged or kinked.
* Check Wire Harness connectors to the Drain Pump, Pressure Switch, and Central Control Unit (CCU)
* Check/Clean Drain Pump Filter of foreign objects
* Check Drain Pump
* Check Pressure Switch
* Check CCU



f35
F35 ANALOG PRESSURE SENSOR FAILURE
If this failure is displayed, there is any malfunction of the steamer component detected by the Steamer Electronic Board.
[F35ANALOG PRESSURE SENSOR FAILURE
If this failure is displayed, there is any malfunction of the steamer component detected by the Steamer Electronic Board.
1. Check if pressure hose is fi xed correctly.
2. Check if the airtrap is not blocked.
3. Check if the hose is not blocked

f20
NO WATER DETECTED ENTERING MACHINE OR PRESSURE SWITCH TRIP NOT DETECTED.
The pressure switch is not tripped after 6 minutes.
If there is no water in the unit:
Make sure that both valves at the water source(s) are turned on all the way.
Check for plugged or kinked inlet hoses or plugged screens in the inlet valves.
Verify inlet valve operation.
If there is water in the unit:
Verify drain pump operation.
Verify that the pressure switch hose is in good condition and properly connected to tub and pressure switch.
1. Verify there is not a siphon problem.
2. Press PAUSE/CANCEL twice to clear the display. The machine will drain for 3 minutes before unlocking the door.
3. Unplug washer or disconnect power.
4. Verify wire harness connections to inlet valves, pressure switch, drain pump and Central Control Unit (CCU).
5. Check all hoses for possible leaks.
6. Plug in washer or reconnect power
7. Verify pressure switch operation.
8. Verify CCU operation by running a Diagnostic Test or any cycle.

[Snoozer]

thank you for your replies, bikereric & oyNot. I will try l8r 2n8 when I get home & post results!

[Snoozer]

I had a problem similar to yours, although my first generation machine's a lot older than yours. There are three screws on the front bottom panel. Remove them. You'll see the pump in the center of the bottom plate. Put lots (no, actually more than lots) of towels and stuff under the knob and unscrew it. You'll probably find a clog in there along with lots of cruddy water. Clean everything out, and then look into the hoses with a flashlight to make sure they're open. Replace parts as you found them. Then check the drain hose where it comes out of the back to insure it's not kinked or something like that. Then, if you can, run a cycle without soap just to clear the machine. I though we'd have to replace some sensor part, but doing this clean-out fixed the suds and code issue. I now perform this stinky ritual annually.

Almost forgot, peel back the door gasket at it's lowest point and make sure there's nothing blocking the drain holes. You'll understand description when you look.

I opened it. there was nothing blocking it. I was clear water mostly. the three drain holes under the door gasket are clear. I did notice the detergent feeder was really full of mildew. i cleaned it all out, it did not chage anything. the "clean washer" cycle works its way through the entire process. Anything else I can try?

[oynot]

I opened it. there was nothing blocking it. I was clear water mostly. the three drain holes under the door gasket are clear. I did notice the detergent feeder was really full of mildew. i cleaned it all out, it did not chage anything. the "clean washer" cycle works its way through the entire process. Anything else I can try?

Would have been good if you uncovered something in the drain, that would have beeb an easy fix, but since that didn't happen you've got to dig deeper and BE addressed the next step(s) earlier.

[shirleyuguest]

Eric --

I found my way to your appliance thread. My top-loading washing machine is about 10 years old.

The Problem: I had to fiddle quite a bit (more than usual) to get the last cycle to start. Sometimes I accidently go past the correct starting point on the dial. This time it filled up with water; but when the cycle came to the part when the water was supposed to empty, it just stopped and nothing more happened. I tried moving the dial to various cycles, but it did not help.

The Brand Name: Whirlpool "Ultimate Care II Heavy Duty Super Capacity Plus" machine with 9 cycles and a 2-speed motor.

The Model: The manufacturer's tag inside shows the model as: LSQ9264HQ0 (or O, not sure). It's a Type 111 machine.

My appliance know-how level: No, I am not handy really with these things and have never had to get a washing machine fixed before.

Curious Question: How can serial numbers help? Are you able to look up the owners?

P.P.S. Forgot to add that it's an electric washing machine.

I've got financial issues and am scared to death of getting into the hands of a greedy repairman or repair company. Any help you would provide would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks, It's wonderful of you to share your expertise.

Shirley

[Adipose]

I have a Hartell Condensate Pump PAB-1 that is used to pump out water from the Carrier Central Air Condition from basement to outside ground level. The pump will turn on but will not pump out any water. My friend take a look at it and concluded that it is broken and I should purchase a new one. Is there any model that you would recommend. I am not handy but my friend's father said he will install the new one for me if I purchase one. Thanks.

[jogalot]

I'm getting desperate with that Whirlpool EB21DK bottom freezer 21CF 1994 refrigerator with the cold freezer and the warm refrigerator, but think I'm making progress.

Took it apart, more this time. Coils behind the back freezer panel had some, not a lot of frost on them. I removed the frost with a hairdryer. Then I tried to discern that the blower that's in the back center upper part of the freezer was doing it's thing. There's a piddling amount of air coming through the refrigerator vent when it's set to coldest. I took apart the thermostat area and ran the defrost cycle three times. And I took the panel off the bottom of the refrigerator and found the vent that leads to the freezer. There's no baffle, it's just an open duct.

Questions:
(1) The cold/warm dial on the refrigerator near the thermostat has a baffle that can be seen through the refrigerator vent. When set to warm, it's open all the way, I can see it close as the dial is turned counterclockwise to cold. Is that backwards? Have I had the dial set to coldest all this time when actually it was warmest? Should the vent be open all the way for coldest? It has the most airflow that way.

(2) During the defrost cycle, the part that's above the freezer and under the panel I removed to discover the return duct... the bottom panel on the refrigerator. That area seemed to get warm during the defrost cycle and I'm letting it defrost until the top of the freezer is warm to the touch. It's on the third defrost cycle right now, I've aimed a room heater into the freezer, and the ceiling of the freezer is dripping into the freezer area. What's in that space?

(3) My kilawatt thing show the refrigerator is drawing 233 watts after having a chance to run awhile and in a normal cycle (not defrost), and the lightbulb increases by it 40 when the door is opened. That sounds mightly low. Is it significant?

Thanks much.

[OP]

Im about to pull the 2 sink countertop (1 sink on each side of 80" vanity) in my bathroom and tile a new top...I'd like to just drop in 1 sink in the middle.... what am I looking at with the plumbing ?

can i just run the flexible water supplies from one of the supplies to the new middle sink and cut some longer PVC for the drain ? that it ? anything to that ?

just cap the other drain and leave the cut off valves off on the unsed supply ? against code ?

[TBurr]

Im about to pull the 2 sink countertop (1 sink on each side of 80" vanity) in my bathroom and tile a new top...I'd like to just drop in 1 sink in the middle.... what am I looking at with the plumbing ?

can i just run the flexible water supplies from one of the supplies to the new middle sink and cut some longer PVC for the drain ? that it ? anything to that ?

just cap the other drain and leave the cut off valves off on the unsed supply ? against code ?

Cap off any unused pipes, check the drain pipe for pitch and a use proper trap and you're good to go.

There's a handy dandy home repair thread, too.

[BikerEric]

Eric --

I found my way to your appliance thread. My top-loading washing machine is about 10 years old.

The Problem: I had to fiddle quite a bit (more than usual) to get the last cycle to start. Sometimes I accidently go past the correct starting point on the dial. This time it filled up with water; but when the cycle came to the part when the water was supposed to empty, it just stopped and nothing more happened. I tried moving the dial to various cycles, but it did not help.

The Brand Name: Whirlpool "Ultimate Care II Heavy Duty Super Capacity Plus" machine with 9 cycles and a 2-speed motor.

The Model: The manufacturer's tag inside shows the model as: LSQ9264HQ0 (or O, not sure). It's a Type 111 machine.

My appliance know-how level: No, I am not handy really with these things and have never had to get a washing machine fixed before.

Curious Question: How can serial numbers help? Are you able to look up the owners?

P.P.S. Forgot to add that it's an electric washing machine.

I've got financial issues and am scared to death of getting into the hands of a greedy repairman or repair company. Any help you would provide would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks, It's wonderful of you to share your expertise.

Shirley


It sounds like a lid switch
P/N: 3949247 (http://www.pcappliancerepair.com/cgi-bin/detail.cgi?item=3949247&brand=WPL)

How to change the switch (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fC8SY3cU1Yc)

[BikerEric]

I have a Hartell Condensate Pump PAB-1 that is used to pump out water from the Carrier Central Air Condition from basement to outside ground level. The pump will turn on but will not pump out any water. My friend take a look at it and concluded that it is broken and I should purchase a new one. Is there any model that you would recommend. I am not handy but my friend's father said he will install the new one for me if I purchase one. Thanks.
pretty much any brand will do.
I'm getting desperate with that Whirlpool EB21DK bottom freezer 21CF 1994 refrigerator with the cold freezer and the warm refrigerator, but think I'm making progress.

Took it apart, more this time. Coils behind the back freezer panel had some, not a lot of frost on them. I removed the frost with a hairdryer. Then I tried to discern that the blower that's in the back center upper part of the freezer was doing it's thing. There's a piddling amount of air coming through the refrigerator vent when it's set to coldest. I took apart the thermostat area and ran the defrost cycle three times. And I took the panel off the bottom of the refrigerator and found the vent that leads to the freezer. There's no baffle, it's just an open duct.

Questions:
(1) The cold/warm dial on the refrigerator near the thermostat has a baffle that can be seen through the refrigerator vent. When set to warm, it's open all the way, I can see it close as the dial is turned counterclockwise to cold. Is that backwards? Have I had the dial set to coldest all this time when actually it was warmest? Should the vent be open all the way for coldest? It has the most airflow that way.

(2) During the defrost cycle, the part that's above the freezer and under the panel I removed to discover the return duct... the bottom panel on the refrigerator. That area seemed to get warm during the defrost cycle and I'm letting it defrost until the top of the freezer is warm to the touch. It's on the third defrost cycle right now, I've aimed a room heater into the freezer, and the ceiling of the freezer is dripping into the freezer area. What's in that space?

(3) My kilawatt thing show the refrigerator is drawing 233 watts after having a chance to run awhile and in a normal cycle (not defrost), and the lightbulb increases by it 40 when the door is opened. That sounds mightly low. Is it significant?

Thanks much.
The vent is set properly to work
give me a pic of the controls plz

I'm wondering if the mullion between the fridge and frzr was frozen up?

You got three defrost cycles out of the unit in a row?


Is the fan motor (in the freezer)running fast? or just going round slowly
you should be able to feel the air move and hear it too.

Cap off any unused pipes, check the drain pipe for pitch and a use proper trap and you're good to go.

There's a handy dandy home repair thread, too.

[shirleyuguest]

It sounds like a lid switch
P/N: 3949247 (http://www.pcappliancerepair.com/cgi-bin/detail.cgi?item=3949247&brand=WPL)

How to change the switch (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fC8SY3cU1Yc)

Eric,

Thanks for your reply; I watched the video link you sent and some others. Though the scope of the repair is a bit beyond me, I tried to drain the water according to this video LINK (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SSM-2qCC3Po&feature=related). But a gray plastic piece (about 1" deep and 2-3" long) fell out (see attached photo). What is it?

If I'm going to call a repairman, what do you suggest?

Thanks!

Shirley

[Adipose]

[QUOTE=BikerEric;30943238]pretty much any brand will do.

Thank you.

[BikerEric]

Eric,

Thanks for your reply; I watched the video link you sent and some others. Though the scope of the repair is a bit beyond me, I tried to drain the water according to this video LINK (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SSM-2qCC3Po&feature=related). But a gray plastic piece (about 1" deep and 2-3" long) fell out (see attached photo). What is it?

If I'm going to call a repairman, what do you suggest?

Thanks!

Shirley
The part is from the switch ( that is broken for sure)
I would expect to pay about $130 ish for the repair
Are you a member of Angie's List?

[shirleyuguest]

The part is from the switch ( that is broken for sure)
I would expect to pay about $130 ish for the repair
Are you a member of Angie's List?

Eric,

No, I'm not a member of Angie's list. Is that a way to be more sure of repairmen?

I was quoted $130 by a local appliance repair to come out and replace the lid switch. Others had quoted $90 just to come out without rolling that into the total cost, so I kept looking and found this repair shop.

Thanks!

Shirley

[jogalot]

The vent is set properly to work
give me a pic of the controls plz

I'm wondering if the mullion between the fridge and frzr was frozen up?

You got three defrost cycles out of the unit in a row?


Is the fan motor (in the freezer)running fast? or just going round slowly
you should be able to feel the air move and hear it too.

Will upload photo later today

Mullion area (horizontal part between freezer and refrigerator) was frozen, for sure. I aimed a space heater into the freezer and the mullion was cold to the touch for a very long time. Lots of water dripped from the small openings in the freezer ceiling that receive the gutter like removable trim strip by the door. I ran the defrost cycle in the refrigerator three times manually while using a hair dryer and then a space heater to "defrost" the box fully. The timer appears to work as it should.

Fan in freezer blowing air into the refrigerator seems to be working fine, but not much air is actually coming from the refrigerator vent. I think the airflow is the same as always, but don't know for sure.

My thaw efforts helped slightly. The freezer still maintains a good temp and the fridge is at 47.

[BikerEric]

Eric,

No, I'm not a member of Angie's list. Is that a way to be more sure of repairmen?

I was quoted $130 by a local appliance repair to come out and replace the lid switch. Others had quoted $90 just to come out without rolling that into the total cost, so I kept looking and found this repair shop.

Thanks!

Shirley

130 is about what I charge ( and I'm cheaper than anyone else in my area)

[jogalot]

Aargh! The refrigerator is getting warm again. Came home and it was reading 54. Darn thing. I really gotta do something about this ASAP.

[BikerEric]

Aargh! The refrigerator is getting warm again. Came home and it was reading 54. Darn thing. I really gotta do something about this ASAP.

I'm really at a loss here , with out being able to actually see and touch the unit.

[shirleyuguest]

Repped for replying to my ?s re: my Whirlpool washing machine!

[dollarbill]

I have an Amana side by side refrig./ freezer model# sxd26vw. w/ ice maker. I got it used so I don't have the manual. My question is- Is the ice maker light supposed to be on all the time? (it does turn off when I open the freezer door and the freezer light goes on). If not where might I get a manual to trouble shoot
SOLVED there was a switch under the plastic bezel around ice dispenser

[BikerEric]

I have an Amana side by side refrig./ freezer model# sxd26vw. w/ ice maker. I got it used so I don't have the manual. My question is- Is the ice maker light supposed to be on all the time? (it does turn off when I open the freezer door and the freezer light goes on). If not where might I get a manual to trouble shoot

I assume you are talking the I/M light inside the freezer, No it isn't supposed to be on all the time
unscrew the bulb for now and I;ll see if I can find a manual

[Snoozer]

I had a problem similar to yours, although my first generation machine's a lot older than yours...

sud





f35



f20




thanx 4 ur help. i was running many clean washer cycles, rinse & drain cycles...whatever i could get to run a least for a bit b4 it errored out. then after may times i checked the drain again and found a small sock tie pictured in attachment. i guess it eventually got pushed through. i ran so far one regular full cycle and on the 2nd now. lets hope that was all thanx & repped!

[jogalot]

I'm really at a loss here , with out being able to actually see and touch the unit.

I can see and touch it and am at a loss.

Using a killowatt device, I saw that the defrost cycle was drawing some 600 watts for a few minutes, then it shut off and drew nothing for maybe 12 minutes until the refrigerator cycle came on. Could this simply be a bad bimetallic switch? I removed it and placed it in a cup of ice water and it hasn't showed any continuity.

What would you suggest I do next?

It was less than a week since doing a full defrost and this is what I had:

http://i29.tinypic.com/jgnkvc.jpg

http://i30.tinypic.com/ipsb5e.jpg

For larger image: http://i29.tinypic.com/jgnkvc.jpg
http://i30.tinypic.com/ipsb5e.jpg

Thanks, BE

[LiquidRetro]

I have a general question. I just moved into a new house and the AC unit is about 15 years old. I dont know when the last time it was serviced. Its been pretty hot here recently and I am wondering what temp the air should be that is coming out of my vents? It seems to be not as cold as it should but I would like to avoid a service call if its in the "Normal" range for a unit of that age. Any help here is appreciated.

[BikerEric]

I can see and touch it and am at a loss.

Using a killowatt device, I saw that the defrost cycle was drawing some 600 watts for a few minutes, then it shut off and drew nothing for maybe 12 minutes until the refrigerator cycle came on. Could this simply be a bad bimetallic switch? I removed it and placed it in a cup of ice water and it hasn't showed any continuity.

What would you suggest I do next?

It was less than a week since doing a full defrost and this is what I had:

http://i29.tinypic.com/jgnkvc.jpg

http://i30.tinypic.com/ipsb5e.jpg

For larger image: http://i29.tinypic.com/jgnkvc.jpg
http://i30.tinypic.com/ipsb5e.jpg

Thanks, BE
I'm thinking the timer or the bimetal is shorting the defrost cycle ( typically a defrost heater time is about 10 minutes ish)
I'm going to guess bimetal and/or timer
I'd go with both


I have a general question. I just moved into a new house and the AC unit is about 15 years old. I dont know when the last time it was serviced. Its been pretty hot here recently and I am wondering what temp the air should be that is coming out of my vents? It seems to be not as cold as it should but I would like to avoid a service call if its in the "Normal" range for a unit of that age. Any help here is appreciated.

you need to do a delta t test

You need to measure the air temp into the air handler and then the air temp out
you should have about 20 to 25 degrees difference


ideally the interior ambient temp will be about 20 degrees cooler then outside ambient

[jogalot]

I'm thinking the timer or the bimetal is shorting the defrost cycle ( typically a defrost heater time is about 10 minutes ish)
I'm going to guess bimetal and/or timer
I'd go with both

I found the bimetal unclipped from the freezer line, and after securing it to the coil waited several hours for a defrost cycle to take place.

I was monitoring it with a killowatt device to tell when the heater kicked in. When the bimetal caused the heater to turn off, and before the timer caused the compressor to start again, I unplugged the box and removed the rear freezer panel. With an infrared thermometer we saw the bimetal was around 50 degrees. There was still some frost present on the coil, top center area. Is that a normal cycle?

Was thinking if the bimetal was mounted somewhere else, ie not on the curved side of the highest coil and in a direct path of the heater, that the defrost cycle would last longer. Even though it won't clip on, should I place it on the top center of the coil, or where's the most effective place to mount it?

I'd still like to replace the bimetal only because the clip doesn't appear secure. The refrigerator's service sheet calls for a 2183072 which is listed as being interchangeable with 4387503, 2149641, 2149643, 2163894, 2172694, 2182380, 2221677, 4343917, 4387503 and the one the local store has which is 4387490. Is one preferable?

Thanks for leading me in the right direction. Would like to replace the bimetal today and look forward to your response.

[BikerEric]

I found the bimetal unclipped from the freezer line, and after securing it to the coil waited several hours for a defrost cycle to take place.

I was monitoring it with a killowatt device to tell when the heater kicked in. When the bimetal caused the heater to turn off, and before the timer caused the compressor to start again, I unplugged the box and removed the rear freezer panel. With an infrared thermometer we saw the bimetal was around 50 degrees. There was still some frost present on the coil, top center area. Is that a normal cycle?

Was thinking if the bimetal was mounted somewhere else, ie not on the curved side of the highest coil and in a direct path of the heater, that the defrost cycle would last longer. Even though it won't clip on, should I place it on the top center of the coil, or where's the most effective place to mount it?

I'd still like to replace the bimetal only because the clip doesn't appear secure. The refrigerator's service sheet calls for a 2183072 which is listed as being interchangeable with 4387503, 2149641, 2149643, 2163894, 2172694, 2182380, 2221677, 4343917, 4387503 and the one the local store has which is 4387490. Is one preferable?

Thanks for leading me in the right direction. Would like to replace the bimetal today and look forward to your response.
First you should get the proper bimetal! As long as the specs say it is interchangeable that is ok

the bimetal typically clips to the aluminum coil at the top where the copper and aluminum meet ( on the aluminum though) anywhere else is going to give wrong defrosts.

You may want to try the original bimetal and clip it in the right place (see above) before buying anything.

[jogalot]

I've mounted it there (just after the bend, on the aluminum before the copper and with the switch part facing the back left corner of the box) and will keep fingers crossed. I'll grab a new bimetal Monday, but in the meantime the old one seems to be trying -- hopefully now that' it's in the right place even properly.

It's on the right track... have correct temperatures and it's mostly defrosting on cycles. You have no idea how much we wanted to keep this box going; the idea of a drawer freezer or other new unappealing designs really had us shivering. Per your request #10, and as a thanks for all your help with this, consider it done and for the benefit of a very active local robotics team under the umbrella of http://www.usfirst.org/

Still confuzzled by the refrigerator cold/warm setting though. It doesn't seem to make a significant difference at all monitoring the temp of water in a cup, and the baffle that allows more cold air in is wide open at the warmest setting and closed at the coldest setting. That defies logic. Is it backwards? The freezer thermostat for sure makes a difference in the refrigerator and freezer temps. How does the refrigerator cold/warm dial work?

[BikerEric]

I've mounted it there (just after the bend, on the aluminum before the copper and with the switch part facing the back left corner of the box) and will keep fingers crossed. I'll grab a new bimetal Monday, but in the meantime the old one seems to be trying -- hopefully now that' it's in the right place even properly.

It's on the right track... have correct temperatures and it's mostly defrosting on cycles. You have no idea how much we wanted to keep this box going; the idea of a drawer freezer or other new unappealing designs really had us shivering. Per your request #10, and as a thanks for all your help with this, consider it done and for the benefit of a very active local robotics team under the umbrella of http://www.usfirst.org/

Still confuzzled by the refrigerator cold/warm setting though. It doesn't seem to make a significant difference at all monitoring the temp of water in a cup, and the baffle that allows more cold air in is wide open at the warmest setting and closed at the coldest setting. That defies logic. Is it backwards? The freezer thermostat for sure makes a difference in the refrigerator and freezer temps. How does the refrigerator cold/warm dial work?

1st Thanx for the donation to usfirst, My oldest son was in that in high school and ended up going to Fla for the finals in2002

For this unit
the compressor runs off of the ref control (it actually has the t-stat bulb connected
so the refrigerator control is the main temp control

freezer warmer/cooler opens a damper and lets more/less air into the ref compartment

ie. if you want the freezer warmer ~~ set frezr control to warmer (more air will leave the freezer compartment)

hope this clarifies...

[widgit]

BikerEric, help please :please:

Seemingly dead refrigerator/freezer
Whirlpool no frost side by side.
Model# EED192PKNR1
SN# S95117199

The refrigerator is at what was my mother's home. She passed away a couple of months ago and we have a friend staying in the house while we decide what to do with it. So I'm getting this information 2nd hand for tonight, but apparently the unit stopped working sometime last night and wasn't noticed until this morning.

I had another friend that's sort of a handyman that lives nearby the house take a look at it. He said that it sounds like the compressor is running (he could hear the motor), but the fan isn't. The freezer part doesn't seem to be working at all. Neither does the refrigerator side, at least no fan runs when you open the door, but the fridge side is still a little cool at this moment, about 50 degrees. There was no frost buildup that he could see in either the freezer nor the fridge side.

Unfortunately I can't get over to the house tonight to check on it myself, but I'm hoping to get over there sometime tomorrow. I am planning on having a repairman out on Monday if I can, because I can't fix it myself. I was hoping that you could maybe give me an idea of what might possibly be wrong and/or what to look for, either myself or when I do get a local repair man out.

Hopefully I'll be able to check back in on this thread later tonight but we have lightning storms moving in and I may have to shut the computer down for the night. So if I don't reply to any questions this evening (if you by chance see this post tonight), then I'll definitely check back tomorrow.

Thank you for any help or insight that you can give me. :)

[iconian]

Hi Eric the great:)

I lost power today in my house cause i had AC on and tried to print.

I reset the fuses but now my refrigerator's light is not turning on inside and it's not cooling/freezing. I tried unplugging it/replugging it, but no effect.

Do you think it shorted out?

thanks!

[stufine]

is the outlet getting power? my first thought would be missed one of the breakers

[BikerEric]

BikerEric, help please :please:

Seemingly dead refrigerator/freezer
Whirlpool no frost side by side.
Model# EED192PKNR1
SN# S95117199

The refrigerator is at what was my mother's home. She passed away a couple of months ago and we have a friend staying in the house while we decide what to do with it. So I'm getting this information 2nd hand for tonight, but apparently the unit stopped working sometime last night and wasn't noticed until this morning.

I had another friend that's sort of a handyman that lives nearby the house take a look at it. He said that it sounds like the compressor is running (he could hear the motor), but the fan isn't. The freezer part doesn't seem to be working at all. Neither does the refrigerator side, at least no fan runs when you open the door, but the fridge side is still a little cool at this moment, about 50 degrees. There was no frost buildup that he could see in either the freezer nor the fridge side.

Unfortunately I can't get over to the house tonight to check on it myself, but I'm hoping to get over there sometime tomorrow. I am planning on having a repairman out on Monday if I can, because I can't fix it myself. I was hoping that you could maybe give me an idea of what might possibly be wrong and/or what to look for, either myself or when I do get a local repair man out.

Hopefully I'll be able to check back in on this thread later tonight but we have lightning storms moving in and I may have to shut the computer down for the night. So if I don't reply to any questions this evening (if you by chance see this post tonight), then I'll definitely check back tomorrow.

Thank you for any help or insight that you can give me. :)

If the compressor is running, the mullion ( the strip between the fridge and frzr will be very hot!)
If this is the case , you need to pull the unit from the wall
remove the back panel
is the fan running?
is the compressor running?
is the comp hot?
or cool?

UNPLUG UNIT FROM WALL
vacuum all the dust out
from the front
from the rear

Plug unit back in
see if the fan starts to run
if not
try to give it a spin by hand
if it goes
you need a fan motor
if it doesn't
you need a fan motor
for temporary service
you can place a small box fan behind the unit and have it blow air under the unit ( with the panel off)
until you can get it fixed

The refrigerator is from 1990
the fan motor is part number 833697 msrp about $50
total job should be $150 to $170


if the compressor isn't running
I would spend the money to repair the unit.

[BikerEric]

Hi Eric the great:)

I lost power today in my house cause i had AC on and tried to print.

I reset the fuses but now my refrigerator's light is not turning on inside and it's not cooling/freezing. I tried unplugging it/replugging it, but no effect.

Do you think it shorted out?

thanks!

is the outlet getting power? my first thought would be missed one of the breakers

Check your circuit breakers again
And check all the GFCI outlets in your house too.
The outlet may be tied to a GFCI in the kitchen or even a bathroom.
http://www.hbbuildinganddesign.com/homereport/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/gfci_outlet.jpg

other than that
Model and Serial please

[iconian]

i reset all of them when it had happeend, only outlets like that are in bathroom and kitchen. i reset ones in kitchen but bathroom didnt lose power, just kitchen/living room.

its a kenmore model # 253.61532804
serial: ba90918120

i can only do so much since it's land lords.

[stufine]

is the living room still without power?

[iconian]

is the living room still without power?
no i didnt lose power in the apartment, my bedrooms had power...just breakers kicked in cause i have pc./ac./tv. + on and tried to print

i reset breakers and everything, but fridge came back

[widgit]

If the compressor is running, the mullion ( the strip between the fridge and frzr will be very hot!)
If this is the case , you need to pull the unit from the wall
remove the back panel
is the fan running?
is the compressor running?
is the comp hot?
or cool?

UNPLUG UNIT FROM WALL
vacuum all the dust out
from the front
from the rear

Plug unit back in
see if the fan starts to run
if not
try to give it a spin by hand
if it goes
you need a fan motor
if it doesn't
you need a fan motor
for temporary service
you can place a small box fan behind the unit and have it blow air under the unit ( with the panel off)
until you can get it fixed

The refrigerator is from 1990
the fan motor is part number 833697 msrp about $50
total job should be $150 to $170


if the compressor isn't running
I would spend the money to repair the unit.

Hi BE, thanks for the quick reply :)

I'll hopefully get out to the house later this afternoon and try to check out all of the above if I can.

Just to clarify in my mind: You said that if the compressor is not running "you would spend the money to repair the unit". So if it turns out that the compressor is bad, do you mean that it would be worth it to spend the money to repair it?

Also, since it seems the unit is apparently from 1990, if it's just the fan motor, is it worth it to repair it?

Given the age of the unit, I'm just worried that something else might go wrong with it, and so am trying to figure out if we should try to find a new unit instead of just repairing this one (don't really want to buy a new one if it is worth fixing this one). Help?

Thanks again :)

[BikerEric]

no i didnt lose power in the apartment, my bedrooms had power...just breakers kicked in cause i have pc./ac./tv. + on and tried to print

i reset breakers and everything, but fridge came back
no fuses on fridge ... time call in the LL
Hi BE, thanks for the quick reply :)

I'll hopefully get out to the house later this afternoon and try to check out all of the above if I can.

Just to clarify in my mind: You said that if the compressor is not running "you would spend the money to repair the unit". So if it turns out that the compressor is bad, do you mean that it would be worth it to spend the money to repair it?

Also, since it seems the unit is apparently from 1990, if it's just the fan motor, is it worth it to repair it?

Given the age of the unit, I'm just worried that something else might go wrong with it, and so am trying to figure out if we should try to find a new unit instead of just repairing this one (don't really want to buy a new one if it is worth fixing this one). Help?

Thanks again :)

I typed wrong! I would not spend any more than the fan repair to repair the unit.

[iconian]

no fuses on fridge ... time call in the LL


I typed wrong! I would not spend any more than the fan repair to repair the unit.
tomorow. i thought so

thanks brother!

[jogalot]

About that fridge that kept frosting over... I installed a new bimetal 4387503 and it doubled the defrosting time from about 5 minutes to about 11 minutes. And after watching it for a few days, the frost is mostly clearing and the temperatures have good. This appears to be a success!

Would like to replace the 10 hour timer as well, just for good measure. I don't mind replacing the timer with one that'll run defrost cycles more often; which timer would you recommend to replace a 2162052?

On another question, how reliable are those yellow energy sticker annual cost estimates? I know the rates need to be more than doubled to for this area (Boston, after all's said and done, my bill is 26 cents per KwH vs the 10.6 cents on the stickers) . Labels for refrigerators I was looking at before fixing the one I have were showing some $61 annual operating cost (~$132 for Boston) and the killawatt meter I have connected to my old fridge shows an annual operating cost is $336. The difference is just over $200 annually. Could it really be that much? As a sidenote, we've been in a heat wave and the kitchen is sweltering.

[LiquidRetro]

you need to do a delta t test

You need to measure the air temp into the air handler and then the air temp out
you should have about 20 to 25 degrees difference


ideally the interior ambient temp will be about 20 degrees cooler then outside ambient

Thanks for the suggestion, do you have any more information about how to perform this test?

[BikerEric]

Thanks for the suggestion, do you have any more information about how to perform this test?

temperature going into the furnace vs temperature coming out
check for holes in the ductwork
or small opening in the ducts
and measure temps there.

[komondor]

I am looking to replace current 27" double oven 30 Amp breaker
found GE JKP75DPBB http://www.ajmadison.com/cgi-bin/ajmadison/JKP75DPBB.html

Looks like it meets my needs Black and top oven has convection

Any issues with GE or better suggestions I found the GE for 1638.00 here


http://www.wdcappliances.com/ProductsDetail.php?SKU=JKP75DPBB
]
Thanks

[BikerEric]

I am looking to replace current 27" double oven 30 Amp breaker
found GE JKP75DPBB http://www.ajmadison.com/cgi-bin/ajmadison/JKP75DPBB.html

Looks like it meets my needs Black and top oven has convection

Any issues with GE or better suggestions I found the GE for 1638.00 here


http://www.wdcappliances.com/ProductsDetail.php?SKU=JKP75DPBB
]
Thanks

GEs are cheap to buy and Expensive to repair
And repair you will do

I'm a fan of KitchenAid and Amana Wall ovens
Look into those brands

[redpoint5]

Assuming a 3-ton heat pump, what is a reasonable price to get the coolant changed?

My grandparents unit started blowing warm air on a hot day and a repairman said the coolant needed to be replaced and charged something like $600. A couple days later it started blowing warm again and the guy cleaned a duct or something. Not real clear on things because it's hard to get accurate details from old people, but $600 does seem like robbery.

[BikerEric]

Assuming a 3-ton heat pump, what is a reasonable price to get the coolant changed?

My grandparents unit started blowing warm air on a hot day and a repairman said the coolant needed to be replaced and charged something like $600. A couple days later it started blowing warm again and the guy cleaned a duct or something. Not real clear on things because it's hard to get accurate details from old people, but $600 does seem like robbery.

Sounds a little high to me but we don't know how much refrigerant he put in , and if he actually looked for leaks.
Refrigerant never needs to be changed! It never wears out! It may leak out, and need to be replenished. It sounds ( from what I read) like there is a major leak, and that's why it started blowing warm a few days later.
If this is the case , they have a major leak and it needs to be repaired asap

[redpoint5]

Sounds a little high to me but we don't know how much refrigerant he put in , and if he actually looked for leaks.
Refrigerant never needs to be changed! It never wears out! It may leak out, and need to be replenished. It sounds ( from what I read) like there is a major leak, and that's why it started blowing warm a few days later.
If this is the case , they have a major leak and it needs to be repaired asap

Thanks for the response BE!

Refrigerant change didn't sound right to me either. Apparently they had a different guy over who said the previous guy misdiagnosed the problem, and he was able to fix it. I'll try to get more details and see what was billed. It shouldn't cost over $600 to not fix a problem though.

[sdslick]

I have a question about my new furnace. The installer didn't replace my old line going to the thermostat, which is only 2 wires. So now, I see that my thermostat has an option to turn on the fan only without heating, but it doesn't work. I guess because the wires for that function aren't connected.

So my question is, can I go down to the furnace and turn the fan on somehow? This is the info on the furnace (http://www.luxairehtg.com/PDFFiles/410823-LTG-B-1008.pdf). The reason I want to turn on the fan is to circulate the air and get some of the dust out of the house. Hopefully, that will improve the air quality in the house.

[wingrider]

How much water should be in the bottom of a GE dishwasher during the cycles? It doesn't seem to be letting enough water in because sometimes the soap doesn't even fully dissolve. Seem to have around 1" at best. Mod# G5D5310D02AA, Ser# HA840188B. GE Triton Series. What do I need to check?

[oynot]

How can I keep mice from nesting in the insulation layer of my gas range? I can see their stuff through the surface burner holes in the top.

And how the heck does the top come off so I can clean up the mess they create? It's a new GE Profile range, and I can only hope they don't destroy it.

[jogalot]

About that fridge that kept frosting over... I installed a new bimetal 4387503 and it doubled the defrosting time from about 5 minutes to about 11 minutes. And after watching it for a few days, the frost is mostly clearing and the temperatures have good. This appears to be a success!

Would like to replace the 10 hour timer as well, just for good measure. I don't mind replacing the timer with one that'll run defrost cycles more often; which timer would you recommend to replace a 2162052?

On another question, how reliable are those yellow energy sticker annual cost estimates? I know the rates need to be more than doubled to for this area (Boston, after all's said and done, my bill is 26 cents per KwH vs the 10.6 cents on the stickers) . Labels for refrigerators I was looking at before fixing the one I have were showing some $61 annual operating cost (~$132 for Boston) and the killawatt meter I have connected to my old fridge shows an annual operating cost is $336. The difference is just over $200 annually. Could it really be that much?

[stufine]

I have a question about my new furnace. The installer didn't replace my old line going to the thermostat, which is only 2 wires. So now, I see that my thermostat has an option to turn on the fan only without heating, but it doesn't work. I guess because the wires for that function aren't connected.

So my question is, can I go down to the furnace and turn the fan on somehow? This is the info on the furnace (http://www.luxairehtg.com/PDFFiles/410823-LTG-B-1008.pdf). The reason I want to turn on the fan is to circulate the air and get some of the dust out of the house. Hopefully, that will improve the air quality in the house.

i'll say no. older units had a manual switch and i doubt your new would have it. you could jumper it on. i can only guess it would be easy enough to pull new wire and hook it up correct.

[BikerEric]

How much water should be in the bottom of a GE dishwasher during the cycles? It doesn't seem to be letting enough water in because sometimes the soap doesn't even fully dissolve. Seem to have around 1" at best. Mod# G5D5310D02AA, Ser# HA840188B. GE Triton Series. What do I need to check?
It should be close to the heating element
Check the float
if you are handy make sure the valve is fully open to the dishwasher ( under the sink usually)

How can I keep mice from nesting in the insulation layer of my gas range? I can see their stuff through the surface burner holes in the top.

And how the heck does the top come off so I can clean up the mess they create? It's a new GE Profile range, and I can only hope they don't destroy it.

I need a model and serial please

[BikerEric]

About that fridge that kept frosting over... I installed a new bimetal 4387503 and it doubled the defrosting time from about 5 minutes to about 11 minutes. And after watching it for a few days, the frost is mostly clearing and the temperatures have good. This appears to be a success!

Would like to replace the 10 hour timer as well, just for good measure. I don't mind replacing the timer with one that'll run defrost cycles more often; which timer would you recommend to replace a 2162052?

On another question, how reliable are those yellow energy sticker annual cost estimates? I know the rates need to be more than doubled to for this area (Boston, after all's said and done, my bill is 26 cents per KwH vs the 10.6 cents on the stickers) . Labels for refrigerators I was looking at before fixing the one I have were showing some $61 annual operating cost (~$132 for Boston) and the killawatt meter I have connected to my old fridge shows an annual operating cost is $336. The difference is just over $200 annually. Could it really be that much?
leave it alone for awhile

yes it can be that much . BUT the reliability of the newer units suck!

[Piccaboo]

Hey BE, are you able to identify the year of the following appliances for me?

My son is looking at purchasing a town home with the following, and I would appreciate it if you are able to identify how old these appliances are, especially the Central A/C unit, as I think it's original to this town home.

1. Washer - Mod # FWX223LBSF - Ser #XCB4411746 (10-98?)

2. Dryer - Mod #AED4475TQO - Ser #MW1233524

3. Frig - Mod # FRT21NRG - (Frigidaire) (1998?)

4. Oven/Stove - Mod #JBS16G0P2AD - Ser #SF123012G - General Electric

5. Dishwasher - Mod # ADW1000K00WW - Ser #AH794993B - Hot Point

6. Central A/C - Mod #CR16KG-PFV-230 - Ser #96A30627H - Copeland

This Town Home is 34 years old, which means 1974 or 1975 it was built, approximately.

It's being sold "as is" - so my concern is the appliances - especially the A/C - I wasn't able to get information off of the Oil Burner Unit - but if he continues on with this "deal" - he will have a home inspection done - but we do know that the hot water heater was recently replaced - and there is a water softener - I went to see the place with him today - but couldn't get anything on the oil burner unit :(

Any help on the above would truly be appreciated :hug:

Thanks,
Picca

[BikerEric]

Hey BE, are you able to identify the year of the following appliances for me?

My son is looking at purchasing a town home with the following, and I would appreciate it if you are able to identify how old these appliances are, especially the Central A/C unit, as I think it's original to this town home.

1. Washer - Mod # FWX223LBSF - Ser #XCB4411746 (10-98?)
Frigidaire AW 44th week of 98

2. Dryer - Mod #AED4475TQO - Ser #MW1233524
Admiral El Dryer October 05

3. Frig - Mod # FRT21NRG - (Frigidaire) (1998?)
Frigidaire T/M Fridge May98 ish (No serial number)

4. Oven/Stove - Mod #JBS16G0P2AD - Ser #SF123012G - General Electric
GE Range September 2003

5. Dishwasher - Mod # ADW1000K00WW - Ser #AH794993B - Hot Point
HPt DW January 2005 0r 1993 (looks like 05)

6. Central A/C - Mod #CR16KG-PFV-230 - Ser #96A30627H - Copeland
You gave me the model number of the compressor not the unit The Copeland scoll compressor has a date code of Feb 96


This Town Home is 34 years old, which means 1974 or 1975 it was built, approximately.

It's being sold "as is" - so my concern is the appliances - especially the A/C - I wasn't able to get information off of the Oil Burner Unit - but if he continues on with this "deal" - he will have a home inspection done - but we do know that the hot water heater was recently replaced - and there is a water softener - I went to see the place with him today - but couldn't get anything on the oil burner unit :(

Any help on the above would truly be appreciated :hug:

Thanks,
Picca


Frigidaire AW 44th week of 98
Admiral El Dryer October 05
Frigidaire T/M Fridge May98 ish (No serial number)
GE Range September 2003
HPt DW January 2005
You gave me the model number of the compressor not the unit The Copeland scoll compressor has a date code of Feb 96

send me a good pic of the boiler
and the mod and serial on the AWH


it doesn't have all season water.

[Piccaboo]

Frigidaire AW 44th week of 98
Admiral El Dryer October 05
Frigidaire T/M Fridge May98 ish (No serial number)
GE Range September 2003
HPt DW January 2005
You gave me the model number of the compressor not the unit The Copeland scoll compressor has a date code of Feb 96

send me a good pic of the boiler
and the mod and serial on the AWH


it doesn't have all season water.

Thanks for all the info BE, I will pass this onto my son, and not sure I can get a pic of the boiler, I think I only had one shot at seeing the inside of this place today :(
Yeah, there was another set of numbers on the A/C unit on the upper part of the fan, but I thought I needed the other numbers below it, dang it :mad: Oh well, can't be perfect all the time :angel_not
Btw, that A/C unit is totally rusted out on the top, so that is why I thought it was original to when they built these units 34 years ago - it looks like shit to me :dontknow:

You have been repped for your time and effort on my behalf :hug:

[wingrider]

How much water should be in the bottom of a GE dishwasher during the cycles? It doesn't seem to be letting enough water in because sometimes the soap doesn't even fully dissolve. Seem to have around 1" at best. Mod# G5D5310D02AA, Ser# HA840188B. GE Triton Series. What do I need to check?

It should be close to the heating element
Check the float
if you are handy make sure the valve is fully open to the dishwasher ( under the sink usually)


Water valve is fully open. There seems to be a good stream of water coming in. It filled for 41 seconds before kicking on. The water is not even up to the float, let alone the bottom of the heating element. The center post on the float valve is free, and you can hear it click when you lift the float. Now what? (I'm handy, get as detailed as you want. Have wrench will travel.)

[Dr. J]

I am trying to troubleshoot my home AC system.

I have a single compressor and single air handler system (forced air for both heat and cool) but two thermostats - one in the MBR (2nd floor) and the other in the living room (1st floor). In the basement, the trunk duct coming off the air handler is split into 2 main lines which have (I believe) some sort of valving system with red/green lights.

I assume the system works via the thermostats in parallel - the Cool switch (and temperature setting) kicks the compressor on and the air handler on. The fan relay controls the "valve" in the respective duct in the basement. This way, if either zone (or both) call for cooling, the compressor, air handler and valving system will ensure that only the zone that calls for cooling actually receives it.

The issue I have is that it SEEMS that in order for the main floor to have cooling, the MBR tstat must also call for cooling. In other words, if the MBR tstat is set to OFF, if I set the main floor tstat to Cool and lower the setpoint below the room temp, the compressor doesn't kick on.

Which leads to my question - in such situations, are the outputs of the respective tstats just wired in parallel for the low voltage that's sent to the compressor? Could it be a bad tstat? Do I need to buy a special one for the application? I also ask this because I'd like to upgrade them to programmable tstats in the future.

[Jmunch]

I have a question regarding how efficient my HVAC system is in my house. I have a bungalow house, large master bedroom upstairs and several rooms downstairs. Concrete subfloor, single zone AC. We have a split system, condenser is located outside and the air handler is upstairs in a closet off the master bedroom suite. Tstat is located in the living room area downstairs.

My issue: The discrepancy between the downstairs and upstairs temperatures are pretty big during the hot summer and during the cold winter. The air handler sends the conditioned air up to the attic and then down to the upstairs rooms and down to the ceiling supply vents in the downstairs. The attic gets extremely hot during the summer. It has a large volume and insulation on top of the upstairs bedrooms. I'm not sure that the attic has any decent ventilation at all. There is soffit over the edges of the house and it is possible that there is a shingle covered ridge vent but it doesn't seem to do much. Since all the conditioned air duct-work runs up through that attic space would it save on energy costs to actively vent the attic, add more insulation or even insulate the conditioned air duct-work that are sending air to the vents?

Thank you for reading and any help.

John

[teetee1]

I have a 2-year-old Maytag dehumidifier and it's not working. The electronics seems working fine because I can hear the humming sound from compressor starting when the humidity is higher than the pre-set value. However the machine is not collecting water.

I phoned Maytag and the 3rd party companty they use for warranty repair but they say the company went bankrupted a couple of months ago and refuse to honor the 5-year warranty repair.

After I took the unit apart, I took some photos. I suspect there is a freon leak on the condenser tube since it looks rusty with green traces and currently the system is out of freon. If it's true, is there any way/where to get it refilled and patch the leak? I really don't like to pay $20 just to get the the freon pumped out(I know there is probably no freon in the system but the guy at the dump say it's standard procedure/charge) and place it on the landfill. I rather to spend a little more to get it fixed.

Any ideas?

[LiquidRetro]

I have a 2-year-old Maytag dehumidifier and it's not working. The electronics seems working fine because I can hear the humming sound from compressor starting when the humidity is higher than the pre-set value. However the machine is not collecting water.

I phoned Maytag and the 3rd party companty they use for warranty repair but they say the company went bankrupted a couple of months ago and refuse to honor the 5-year warranty repair.

After I took the unit apart, I took some photos. I suspect there is a freon leak on the condenser tube since it looks rusty with green traces and currently the system is out of freon. If it's true, is there any way/where to get it refilled and patch the leak? I really don't like to pay $20 just to get the the freon pumped out(I know there is probably no freon in the system but the guy at the dump say it's standard procedure/charge) and place it on the landfill. I rather to spend a little more to get it fixed.

Any ideas?

Repair is likely going to cost your more than a new unit costs. Dehumidifiers are known to be one of the most unreliable appliances ever regardless of the brand. Since its apart you could throw it away in pieces or put it back together and offer it for free on craigslist just say it doesnt work and someone might come get it. Most of theses units are not designed to be serviced. Its sad because it creates so much waste.

[teetee1]

Repair is likely going to cost your more than a new unit costs. Dehumidifiers are known to be one of the most unreliable appliances ever regardless of the brand. Since its apart you could throw it away in pieces or put it back together and offer it for free on craigslist just say it doesnt work and someone might come get it. Most of theses units are not designed to be serviced. Its sad because it creates so much waste.

Great suggestions! Thanks!

I wonder what makes dehumidifier so unreliable. Basically it is a refrigerator that collects the condensation water from the air moisture at the evaporator (the low pressure tube). The rust I found was located on the junction of the condenser and the evaporator but the rest of the components are fine. My guess is the solder/welding material the factory used is probably not rust proof and the junction part is also the path where the condensation water flow down so the surface gets lots of moisture and air.

[twskls]

Eric, everything I own is hitting the ten year mark, so I'm liable to be hitting you up quite a bit. By the way, my wife still talks about how helpful you were with our refrigerator.

Anywho - today's problem is my A/C unit. I turn on the unit at the thermostat, air comes rushing out of the vents, and nothing is happening outside. When I walked out to check the compressor, it was making a buzzing sound, and the fan wasn't turning. Any thoughts?

[wingrider]

Eric, everything I own is hitting the ten year mark, so I'm liable to be hitting you up quite a bit. By the way, my wife still talks about how helpful you were with our refrigerator.

Anywho - today's problem is my A/C unit. I turn on the unit at the thermostat, air comes rushing out of the vents, and nothing is happening outside. When I walked out to check the compressor, it was making a buzzing sound, and the fan wasn't turning. Any thoughts?

Just been there, done that, got the t-shirt. Mine did that Saturday night. The condenser fan motor burnt out. No ac Sunday, and it was 102+ Sunday and Monday. Took until Monday afternoon to get ahold of the right fan motor. The house was 97 when I turned everything back on.

If you get some cold air out when you first turn it on, that's probably your problem. I'm guessing the buzzing is the compressor running. The motor was easy to change. Pull it out, and you can find a new one from the make and model.

[twskls]

Just been there, done that, got the t-shirt. Mine did that Saturday night. The condenser fan motor burnt out. No ac Sunday, and it was 102+ Sunday and Monday. Took until Monday afternoon to get ahold of the right fan motor. The house was 97 when I turned everything back on.

If you get some cold air out when you first turn it on, that's probably your problem. I'm guessing the buzzing is the compressor running. The motor was easy to change. Pull it out, and you can find a new one from the make and model.

Makes perfect sense. How much did you pay for your motor?

[wingrider]

Mine ended up $150.

[twskls]

I took it apart and checked voltage. I was about ready to go searching for the motor when I realized I don't know jack about HVAC and I would end up nickel and diming myself into a new unit.

I called an A/C man, and he replaced the capacitor for $130. Took him about 7.5 minutes.

[BikerEric]

Water valve is fully open. There seems to be a good stream of water coming in. It filled for 41 seconds before kicking on. The water is not even up to the float, let alone the bottom of the heating element. The center post on the float valve is free, and you can hear it click when you lift the float. Now what? (I'm handy, get as detailed as you want. Have wrench will travel.)

Sorry

I'm thinking the flow to the fill valve or the valve itself are restricted
or maybe the timer
moreso the water flow

[BikerEric]

I am trying to troubleshoot my home AC system.

I have a single compressor and single air handler system (forced air for both heat and cool) but two thermostats - one in the MBR (2nd floor) and the other in the living room (1st floor). In the basement, the trunk duct coming off the air handler is split into 2 main lines which have (I believe) some sort of valving system with red/green lights.

I assume the system works via the thermostats in parallel - the Cool switch (and temperature setting) kicks the compressor on and the air handler on. The fan relay controls the "valve" in the respective duct in the basement. This way, if either zone (or both) call for cooling, the compressor, air handler and valving system will ensure that only the zone that calls for cooling actually receives it.

The issue I have is that it SEEMS that in order for the main floor to have cooling, the MBR tstat must also call for cooling. In other words, if the MBR tstat is set to OFF, if I set the main floor tstat to Cool and lower the setpoint below the room temp, the compressor doesn't kick on.

Which leads to my question - in such situations, are the outputs of the respective tstats just wired in parallel for the low voltage that's sent to the compressor? Could it be a bad tstat? Do I need to buy a special one for the application? I also ask this because I'd like to upgrade them to programmable tstats in the future.

You need to have a primary stat that controls the compressor. the secondary would control the lower damper
Since it is hotter upstairs ( due to thermal rise) , this setup sounds correct.
I don't think you will be able to get programmable stats but I will research it


I have a question regarding how efficient my HVAC system is in my house. I have a bungalow house, large master bedroom upstairs and several rooms downstairs. Concrete subfloor, single zone AC. We have a split system, condenser is located outside and the air handler is upstairs in a closet off the master bedroom suite. Tstat is located in the living room area downstairs.

My issue: The discrepancy between the downstairs and upstairs temperatures are pretty big during the hot summer and during the cold winter. The air handler sends the conditioned air up to the attic and then down to the upstairs rooms and down to the ceiling supply vents in the downstairs. The attic gets extremely hot during the summer. It has a large volume and insulation on top of the upstairs bedrooms. I'm not sure that the attic has any decent ventilation at all. There is soffit over the edges of the house and it is possible that there is a shingle covered ridge vent but it doesn't seem to do much. Since all the conditioned air duct-work runs up through that attic space would it save on energy costs to actively vent the attic, add more insulation or even insulate the conditioned air duct-work that are sending air to the vents?

Thank you for reading and any help.

John

This is typical!
THe thermal rise in hot air and drop iun cooler air.
The only way you may be able to avoid some of it is to leave your fan setting on 'ON'
to create an air flow and move the he air constantly.


I have a 2-year-old Maytag dehumidifier and it's not working. The electronics seems working fine because I can hear the humming sound from compressor starting when the humidity is higher than the pre-set value. However the machine is not collecting water.

I phoned Maytag and the 3rd party companty they use for warranty repair but they say the company went bankrupted a couple of months ago and refuse to honor the 5-year warranty repair.

After I took the unit apart, I took some photos. I suspect there is a freon leak on the condenser tube since it looks rusty with green traces and currently the system is out of freon. If it's true, is there any way/where to get it refilled and patch the leak? I really don't like to pay $20 just to get the the freon pumped out(I know there is probably no freon in the system but the guy at the dump say it's standard procedure/charge) and place it on the landfill. I rather to spend a little more to get it fixed.

Any ideas?


You need to keep busting MAYTAG's ass!!! They are the manufacturer and need toi stand behind their products!!It would not be cost effective to pay for any repairs


Repair is likely going to cost your more than a new unit costs. Dehumidifiers are known to be one of the most unreliable appliances ever regardless of the brand. Since its apart you could throw it away in pieces or put it back together and offer it for free on craigslist just say it doesnt work and someone might come get it. Most of theses units are not designed to be serviced. Its sad because it creates so much waste.

Great suggestions! Thanks!

I wonder what makes dehumidifier so unreliable. Basically it is a refrigerator that collects the condensation water from the air moisture at the evaporator (the low pressure tube). The rust I found was located on the junction of the condenser and the evaporator but the rest of the components are fine. My guess is the solder/welding material the factory used is probably not rust proof and the junction part is also the path where the condensation water flow down so the surface gets lots of moisture and air.


They are cheap;y built made and sold



Eric, everything I own is hitting the ten year mark, so I'm liable to be hitting you up quite a bit. By the way, my wife still talks about how helpful you were with our refrigerator.

Anywho - today's problem is my A/C unit. I turn on the unit at the thermostat, air comes rushing out of the vents, and nothing is happening outside. When I walked out to check the compressor, it was making a buzzing sound, and the fan wasn't turning. Any thoughts?

Just been there, done that, got the t-shirt. Mine did that Saturday night. The condenser fan motor burnt out. No ac Sunday, and it was 102+ Sunday and Monday. Took until Monday afternoon to get ahold of the right fan motor. The house was 97 when I turned everything back on.

If you get some cold air out when you first turn it on, that's probably your problem. I'm guessing the buzzing is the compressor running. The motor was easy to change. Pull it out, and you can find a new one from the make and model.

Makes perfect sense. How much did you pay for your motor?

I took it apart and checked voltage. I was about ready to go searching for the motor when I realized I don't know jack about HVAC and I would end up nickel and diming myself into a new unit.

I called an A/C man, and he replaced the capacitor for $130. Took him about 7.5 minutes.

even at that price. that is a pretty fair price fot the tech to diagnose, and repair first trip.

[twskls]

even at that price. that is a pretty fair price fot the tech to diagnose, and repair first trip.

I agree. The part is only about $20 online, but I know for sure I was about to replace the wrong part. It was worth the extra 100 bucks to learn what I did.

[Dr. J]

You need to have a primary stat that controls the compressor. the secondary would control the lower damper
Since it is hotter upstairs ( due to thermal rise) , this setup sounds correct.
I don't think you will be able to get programmable stats but I will research it





Hmm that's interesting. Why can't 2 tstats control the compressor? How does it make sense that in order for anything to cool, the upstairs tstat MUST call for cooling? (not ratting on you, just it doesn't make sense that that's the ONLY way it can be wired?)

[BikerEric]

Hmm that's interesting. Why can't 2 tstats control the compressor? How does it make sense that in order for anything to cool, the upstairs tstat MUST call for cooling? (not ratting on you, just it doesn't make sense that that's the ONLY way it can be wired?)

One a single stage condensing unit you only have one contactor that controls the fan and compressor. You can only electrically have one controller (stat) if you were to have two they would short and keep the contactor "closed" all the time for continual cooling (with no stopping.)

You have one condensing unit ,
your one stat turns the unit on and off ,
the other opens and closes the damper
you only have one air handing unit


in order to separate the living areas , you would need two entirely separate systems, independent of each other.

[dayv]

BE -

I'm getting ready to remodel my kitchen. any advice on what brands or models to get for garbage disposal and faucet. also looking for a ductless hood, with lights and white finish, any advice?

was also wondering if you've heard of ticor sinks. http://www.amazon.com/Ticor-S112-Undermount-16-Gauge-Stainless/dp/B002C3GDGI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1281902244&sr=8-1

thanks

[BikerEric]

BE -

I'm getting ready to remodel my kitchen. any advice on what brands or models to get for garbage disposal and faucet. also looking for a ductless hood, with lights and white finish, any advice?

was also wondering if you've heard of ticor sinks. http://www.amazon.com/Ticor-S112-Undermount-16-Gauge-Stainless/dp/B002C3GDGI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1281902244&sr=8-1

thanks

disposer KitchenAid InSinkErator Whirlpool
faucet gerber american standard
sinks? Amercan Standard?
hoods? I'm clueless sorry maybe broan

[wingrider]

Water valve is fully open. There seems to be a good stream of water coming in. It filled for 41 seconds before kicking on. The water is not even up to the float, let alone the bottom of the heating element. The center post on the float valve is free, and you can hear it click when you lift the float. Now what? (I'm handy, get as detailed as you want. Have wrench will travel.)

Sorry

I'm thinking the flow to the fill valve or the valve itself are restricted
or maybe the timer
moreso the water flow

Finally found it. Something was obstructing the actual inlet molded into the side of the dishwasher. Of course this was after I had disassembled the fill valved, etc. Thanks.

[mikeyz]

Im trying to find out if i can replace my current thermostat with a more programmable unit. I am having a very hard time even finding information on the one i have.

I need to know if i am even able to change this unit out.

It says environments for living on it. There is the sensor to the left, and there is an identical sensor upstairs.

Only the one control pad downstairs, the vent system has a valve in the ducting that i guess opens and closes to direct the air to the part of the house that needs the temperature adjusted more.

thanks for any help, i mainly want a new tstat so i can program the days of the week and times. this one all you can do is set the temp.

http://img12.imageshack.us/img12/4210/tstat.jpg

[shirleyuguest]

Im trying to find out if i can replace my current thermostat with a more programmable unit. I am having a very hard time even finding information on the one i have.

I need to know if i am even able to change this unit out.

It says environments for living on it. There is the sensor to the left, and there is an identical sensor upstairs.

Only the one control pad downstairs, the vent system has a valve in the ducting that i guess opens and closes to direct the air to the part of the house that needs the temperature adjusted more.

thanks for any help, i mainly want a new tstat so i can program the days of the week and times. this one all you can do is set the temp.

http://img12.imageshack.us/img12/4210/tstat.jpg


Me, I just got 2 new digital thermostats to replace my analogs. One stat goes to an A/C unit for the 1st and 2nd floor and the other is on the 3rd floor, for a separate unit that handles that area. 2 basic question areas:


The 3rd floor has vaulted ceilings and ceiling fans. The 2nd has neither of these. Is it more cost-effective to leave the "auto" of A/C fan running or not? What about on/off of the entire thermostat as far as efficiency goes?
I had intended to only buy digital, but not programmable stats. The programmable ones seem too complicated. But I ended up with the programmable Honeywell 4000 ones and had them installed while the HVAC tech was here. Any tips on making the use of these simple? Right now, I just let them run on their default programmed cycle (5/2), then change the temp and press "hold" or "run" to return to the default program.

Thanks for any insight!

[TakeTheActive]

Finally found it. Something was obstructing the actual inlet molded into the side of the dishwasher. Of course this was after I had disassembled the fill valved, etc. Thanks.WOW! :messed: (I've been following this thread for the answer - I sure wish vBulletin / pHpBB / ALL forum smilies were 'Standardized' - for this I would have used :thinking: (aka 'scratching my head'))

So, regardless of the water flow rate, 41 SECONDS was the *MAXIMUM* TIMER LIMIT for your unit?!? :confused: IMHO, that seems rather SHORT!

(I would have THOUGHT that the FLOAT would control the *REAL* water level and the TIMER would be be the BACKUP for a (DISASTER) "FLOAT-SWITCH-FAILURE"?!?)

I'm "ASSUMING" ~80psi cold water pressure from the street...

[TakeTheActive]

...Why can't 2 tstats control the compressor? How does it make sense that in order for anything to cool, the upstairs tstat MUST call for cooling? (not ratting on you, just it doesn't make sense that that's the ONLY way it can be wired?)
As an "OLD FART", who duplicated his Dad's ~1950s Hot Water Radiator / Oil Furnace / AquaStat operation (UPGRADE on a ~1920s 'originally COAL-fired' home) on his 1964 (First Home, bought in 1977) Hot Water Baseboard / Gas Furnace (with a thermistor, transistor, relay and a 'few' discrete components), I cannot see how, no matter what the means, you cannot EVENTUALLY accomplish your goal today (as long as *YOU* are capabile of the task!).

Maybe the components aren't READILY AVAILABLE ('Off-the-Shelf'), but, IMHO, the *IDEA* appears sound.

Basically, your REQUIREMENTS are: *ANY* Stat calling for COOLING / HEATING will turn the COOLING / HEATING UNIT (compressor / furnace) ON:
- similar to my Dad's *ANY* Stat calling for HEATING will turn the furnace ON.
.
The *ZONE VALVE* for the area calling for COOLING / HEATING will OPEN and (Water / Air) will circulate.
- similar to my Dad's *ANY* Stat calling for HEATING, the APPROPRIATE valve will be opened.Bottom Line: I'm 'fairly certain' that if a PRODUCTION solution isn't realily available, a HOME-MADE solution is... :bulb: :thinking:

[BikerEric]

As an "OLD FART", who duplicated his Dad's ~1950s Hot Water Radiator / Oil Furnace / AquaStat operation (UPGRADE on a ~1920s 'originally COAL-fired' home) on his 1964 (First Home, bought in 1977) Hot Water Baseboard / Gas Furnace (with a thermistor, transistor, relay and a 'few' discrete components), I cannot see how, no matter what the means, you cannot EVENTUALLY accomplish your goal today (as long as *YOU* are capabile of the task!).

Maybe the components aren't READILY AVAILABLE ('Off-the-Shelf'), but, IMHO, the *IDEA* appears sound.

Basically, your REQUIREMENTS are: *ANY* Stat calling for COOLING / HEATING will turn the COOLING / HEATING UNIT (compressor / furnace) ON:
- similar to my Dad's *ANY* Stat calling for HEATING will turn the furnace ON.
.
The *ZONE VALVE* for the area calling for COOLING / HEATING will OPEN and (Water / Air) will circulate.
- similar to my Dad's *ANY* Stat calling for HEATING, the APPROPRIATE valve will be opened.Bottom Line: I'm 'fairly certain' that if a PRODUCTION solution isn't realily available, a HOME-MADE solution is... :bulb: :thinking:

You go right ahead and do this!!!
Hydronics are totally different than forced air


I'll be ready to replace the unit after you've blown the electronics, and maybe even after the compressor has seized up.

you can be 'fairly certain', you must be certain
I have been doing this for almost 30 years and have had to engineer a lot of solutions.
but hey like proro 1974 says (below) You guys are related?

[stufine]

so much more could be said to the bonehead, but i said enough

[mikeyz]

Im trying to find out if i can replace my current thermostat with a more programmable unit. I am having a very hard time even finding information on the one i have.

I need to know if i am even able to change this unit out.

It says environments for living on it. There is the sensor to the left, and there is an identical sensor upstairs.

Only the one control pad downstairs, the vent system has a valve in the ducting that i guess opens and closes to direct the air to the part of the house that needs the temperature adjusted more.

thanks for any help, i mainly want a new tstat so i can program the days of the week and times. this one all you can do is set the temp.

http://img12.imageshack.us/img12/4210/tstat.jpg


well found out what model i had, took forever to find it, since they badge it differently.
http://www.scillc.com/operatin/erv/erv24-data%20sheet-rev%202.pdf

Guess it has a fres air vent, not the seperate gating that i thought. Has the 2 sensors to average the temperature.

Anyone know of a replacement for this thermostat?

[stufine]

this pdf says its also a programmable t-stat with jumper setting. is it that way now? or not enough settings that you want?

[z2g]

BE,
What's the usual temperature fluctuations for a fridge in the regular fridge section and freezer section? Due to the defrost cycle, how high can the temps get? My current fridge can periodically go from 35 to 45 degrees (it's set at 37 degrees) and the freezer can get from -6 to 27 degrees (it's set at 0). Is that normal?

[coolcat]

We purchased a 1992 house. The upstairs AC unit outside condensing unit was replaced 2 years back. I do not find much cool air blowing from the vents, compared to the downstairs unit. On feeling the air coming out of the outside condensor unit, this does not feel too warm.

Due to this issue, the AC unit runs continously for 4 to 5 hours to bring the temperature down from 90 to 80 degrees, unlike the downstairs unit which cools in 1 to 2 hours.

I am suspecting that the air exhange is not taking place properly because the evaporator coils are dirty. Is this analysis correct, and I should rip open the plenum to clean the coils to address the issue.

Also what do i need to clean the internal units evaporator coil? Just Vacuum clean is good? or is some chemical needed?

[Gobo]

Thank you for answering my question several months ago about induction cooktops. We've decided that going with tried-and-true is the better idea for now.

With that said, we're still getting items put together for building our new house. Unfortunately our builder's base package uses GE, and I know your opinion on those. That said, we have a budget of ~$6500 for kitchen appliances (less fridge). I have little brand loyalty, and only require that it be double ovens w/ convection and that they and cooktop are electric.

With those parameters, I'd love your opinion on these items and what we should be buying.

TYIA.

[BikerEric]

BE,
What's the usual temperature fluctuations for a fridge in the regular fridge section and freezer section? Due to the defrost cycle, how high can the temps get? My current fridge can periodically go from 35 to 45 degrees (it's set at 37 degrees) and the freezer can get from -6 to 27 degrees (it's set at 0). Is that normal?

Yes it is!
When you measure temp in the fridge , it always better to check a liquid or semi liquid for the actual temp.
Air temp will fluctuate dramatically and freak a lot of people out.

[BikerEric]

We purchased a 1992 house. The upstairs AC unit outside condensing unit was replaced 2 years back. I do not find much cool air blowing from the vents, compared to the downstairs unit. On feeling the air coming out of the outside condensor unit, this does not feel too warm.

Due to this issue, the AC unit runs continously for 4 to 5 hours to bring the temperature down from 90 to 80 degrees, unlike the downstairs unit which cools in 1 to 2 hours.

I am suspecting that the air exhange is not taking place properly because the evaporator coils are dirty. Is this analysis correct, and I should rip open the plenum to clean the coils to address the issue.

Also what do i need to clean the internal units evaporator coil? Just Vacuum clean is good? or is some chemical needed?


Check your filters and vents to make they are open.
I would doubt the coils are dirty
The newer units will be a lot cooler running then the older ones ( due to efficiency standards)
Remember heat rises and cool drops , so that in itself will contribute to the different cooling times

[BikerEric]

Thank you for answering my question several months ago about induction cooktops. We've decided that going with tried-and-true is the better idea for now.

With that said, we're still getting items put together for building our new house. Unfortunately our builder's base package uses GE, and I know your opinion on those. That said, we have a budget of ~$6500 for kitchen appliances (less fridge). I have little brand loyalty, and only require that it be double ovens w/ convection and that they and cooktop are electric.

With those parameters, I'd love your opinion on these items and what we should be buying.

TYIA.

fridge
top mount ~ Whirlpool or KitchenAid
Bottom mount ~ Whirlpool KitchenAid Amana
SxS
WHirlpool KitchenAid (without the in door ice storage)

Dishwasher
KitchenAid Whirlpool

Cooktop
Whirlpool KitchenAid Amana JennAir

Disposer
InSinkErAtor

Wall oven
KitchenAid Amana

Of course you could go with Bosch or Fish Pykel , but problems will follow

Avoid at all costs Frigidaire/Electrolux

You could go with GE on ovens cooktops if you really needed to

[coolcat]

Thanks BE for your response.

I am facing a different issue with the downstairs unit this is a Trane XE78. The secondary drip pan is collecting water. There is a little water trickling into the primary outlet line. I tried to push a flexible wire through the pvc drain pipe to clear any blockage but could not achieve much.

This is the heat exhanger unit section. I am wondering on how to open this box to see the primary pan and fix this problem. Attached is the picture of the unit.

Thanks in advance.

[z2g]

Yes it is!
When you measure temp in the fridge , it always better to check a liquid or semi liquid for the actual temp.
Air temp will fluctuate dramatically and freak a lot of people out.

Ok, thanks!

For my freezer section though, the temperature does get high enough were ice becomes kind of soft....like soft serve ice cream. Then, the next day, it'll be close to zero degrees (or lower) and the ice cream will be rock hard. Is that normal?

[wingrider]

WOW! :messed: (I've been following this thread for the answer - I sure wish vBulletin / pHpBB / ALL forum smilies were 'Standardized' - for this I would have used :thinking: (aka 'scratching my head'))

So, regardless of the water flow rate, 41 SECONDS was the *MAXIMUM* TIMER LIMIT for your unit?!? :confused: IMHO, that seems rather SHORT!

(I would have THOUGHT that the FLOAT would control the *REAL* water level and the TIMER would be be the BACKUP for a (DISASTER) "FLOAT-SWITCH-FAILURE"?!?)

I'm "ASSUMING" ~80psi cold water pressure from the street...

Yep. It goes off the timer. The float is the emergency shut-off. I found the self-test instructions on-line somewhere, and I remember that the fill time was max of 47 seconds. After I had cleaned it out, 41 seconds put plenty of water in it (50-60 psi from my well).

[TakeTheActive]

Yep. It goes off the timer. The float is the emergency shut-off. I found the self-test instructions on-line somewhere, and I remember that the fill time was max of 47 seconds. After I had cleaned it out, 41 seconds put plenty of water in it (50-60 psi from my well).
Thanks for the feedback! :thumbup:

I have an 'ancient' dishwasher down in the basement that I got for *FREE* from my first landlord (I've been married to my 'Sweetie' :heart: >37 years! ) - had a burned-out motor. It sits on the cement, hooks up to the Utility Tub with a 'Quick-Release' Nelson Garden Hose Adapter, drains via a Washing Machine hook, and got used during the holidays when we had LOTs of company and a LOAD of dishes.

I 'thought' that I was fairly familiar with its operation and that the FLOAT stopped the water input before the TIMER, but...

Next time we need it, I'll try to remember to measure the TIMER - IIRC, when I didn't have it LEVEL, it LEAKED out the front. :O

[TakeTheActive]

Dr. J (http://slickdeals.net/forums/member.php?u=79334),

Are you still interested in a solution :bulb: to your HVAC problem? (QUOTEd below...)

Although, as I originally stated, I'm *NOT* a HVAC Professional, I do consider myself a very logical thinker. As such, I didn't appreciate the CURT / RUDE replies (without explanations) from BikerEric (http://slickdeals.net/forums/member.php?u=21045) and stufine (http://slickdeals.net/forums/member.php?u=182558). :scratchh: :rolleye2: :soapbox:

Accordingly, my time and interest permitting, I kept researching your 'problem' and I believe that I have found a solution. Since I have no desire to engage in any bickering and/or 'Pissing Contest' with the 'Self-Proclaimed' HVAC Experts, I suggest that, if you're interested, we continue this discussion in another thread.
__________________________________________________
...I have a single compressor and single air handler system (forced air for both heat and cool) but two thermostats - one in the MBR (2nd floor) and the other in the living room (1st floor). In the basement, the trunk duct coming off the air handler is split into 2 main lines which have (I believe) some sort of valving system with red/green lights.

I assume the system works via the thermostats in parallel - the Cool switch (and temperature setting) kicks the compressor on and the air handler on. The fan relay controls the "valve" in the respective duct in the basement. This way, if either zone (or both) call for cooling, the compressor, air handler and valving system will ensure that only the zone that calls for cooling actually receives it.

The issue I have is that it SEEMS that in order for the main floor to have cooling, the MBR tstat must also call for cooling. In other words, if the MBR tstat is set to OFF, if I set the main floor tstat to Cool and lower the setpoint below the room temp, the compressor doesn't kick on.

Which leads to my question - in such situations, are the outputs of the respective tstats just wired in parallel for the low voltage that's sent to the compressor? Could it be a bad tstat? Do I need to buy a special one for the application? I also ask this because I'd like to upgrade them to programmable tstats in the future.

You need to have a primary stat that controls the compressor. the secondary would control the lower damper
Since it is hotter upstairs ( due to thermal rise) , this setup sounds correct...

Hmm that's interesting. Why can't 2 tstats control the compressor? How does it make sense that in order for anything to cool, the upstairs tstat MUST call for cooling? (not ratting on you, just it doesn't make sense that that's the ONLY way it can be wired?)

One a single stage condensing unit you only have one contactor that controls the fan and compressor. You can only electrically have one controller (stat) if you were to have two they would short and keep the contactor "closed" all the time for continual cooling (with no stopping.)

You have one condensing unit ,
your one stat turns the unit on and off ,
the other opens and closes the damper
you only have one air handing unit

in order to separate the living areas , you would need two entirely separate systems, independent of each other.

As an "OLD FART", who duplicated his Dad's ~1950s Hot Water Radiator / Oil Furnace / AquaStat operation (UPGRADE on a ~1920s 'originally COAL-fired' home) on his 1964 (First Home, bought in 1977) Hot Water Baseboard / Gas Furnace (with a thermistor, transistor, relay and a 'few' discrete components), I cannot see how, no matter what the means, you cannot EVENTUALLY accomplish your goal today (as long as *YOU* are capabile of the task!).

Maybe the components aren't READILY AVAILABLE ('Off-the-Shelf'), but, IMHO, the *IDEA* appears sound.

Basically, your REQUIREMENTS are: *ANY* Stat calling for COOLING / HEATING will turn the COOLING / HEATING UNIT (compressor / furnace) ON:
- similar to my Dad's *ANY* Stat calling for HEATING will turn the furnace ON.
.
The *ZONE VALVE* for the area calling for COOLING / HEATING will OPEN and (Water / Air) will circulate.
- similar to my Dad's *ANY* Stat calling for HEATING, the APPROPRIATE valve will be opened.Bottom Line: I'm 'fairly certain' that if a PRODUCTION solution isn't realily available, a HOME-MADE solution is... :bulb: :thinking:

You go right ahead and do this!!!
Hydronics are totally different than forced air

I'll be ready to replace the unit after you've blown the electronics, and maybe even after the compressor has seized up.

you can be 'fairly certain', you must be certain
I have been doing this for almost 30 years and have had to engineer a lot of solutions.
but hey like proro 1974 says (below) You guys are related?

so much more could be said to the bonehead, but i said enough

[Wasser]

I have been flushing my gas water heater once a year or so do reduce calcium deposits, but I need to do some more heavy duty descaling. For that I bought 5 lbs of citric acid powder.

Questions - what would be a good concentration (cups per gallon)? How many gallons would be required to descale this 40gal boiler? Can I turn it on for a little bit to heat up the solution to make it work better, or would that be bad if the boiler isn't completely filled? Any other tips/tricks?

[BikerEric]

Dr. J (http://slickdeals.net/forums/member.php?u=79334),

Are you still interested in a solution :bulb: to your HVAC problem? (QUOTEd below...)

Although, as I originally stated, I'm *NOT* a HVAC Professional, I do consider myself a very logical thinker. As such, I didn't appreciate the CURT / RUDE replies (without explanations) from BikerEric (http://slickdeals.net/forums/member.php?u=21045) and stufine (http://slickdeals.net/forums/member.php?u=182558). :scratchh: :rolleye2: :soapbox:

Accordingly, my time and interest permitting, I kept researching your 'problem' and I believe that I have found a solution. Since I have no desire to engage in any bickering and/or 'Pissing Contest' with the 'Self-Proclaimed' HVAC Experts, I suggest that, if you're interested, we continue this discussion in another thread.
__________________________________________________

TakeThe Activa
With HVAC, logic doesn't always transfer to actual life use.
If I wanted to piss in your cereal bowl , trust me I would!
Self proclaimed?
Masters HVACR
Masters GasFitters
30 years experiance
and your qualifications? Master Googler?
I guess I should be humbled by your expertise :worship: lol

Dr J.
I have seen this setup , tried to make it work (even brought in an HVACR PE) Logically we could wire it and dampen it, but it could NOT stop freezing the air coil. Due to improper air flow

BTW , I did not go into the explanation further, as I didn't want to write a dissertation online.

[BikerEric]

I have been flushing my gas water heater once a year or so do reduce calcium deposits, but I need to do some more heavy duty descaling. For that I bought 5 lbs of citric acid powder.

Questions - what would be a good concentration (cups per gallon)? How many gallons would be required to descale this 40gal boiler? Can I turn it on for a little bit to heat up the solution to make it work better, or would that be bad if the boiler isn't completely filled? Any other tips/tricks?

boiler or water heater?

The boiler MUST be filled any time the heat is on , or you run a very high risk of cracking the heat exchanger. Very high risk.

What say you, TakeTheActive?

[Wasser]

boiler or water heater?

The boiler MUST be filled any time the heat is on , or you run a very high risk of cracking the heat exchanger. Very high risk.

It is a gas water heater A.O.Smith FGR-40. So water heater => doesn't have to be full? I figure it would need a lot of citric acid to make a solution for the entire heater.

[coolcat]

Thanks BE for your response.

I am facing a different issue with the downstairs unit this is a Trane XE78. The secondary drip pan is collecting water. There is a little water trickling into the primary outlet line. I tried to push a flexible wire through the pvc drain pipe to clear any blockage but could not achieve much.

This is the heat exhanger unit section. I am wondering on how to open this box to see the primary pan and fix this problem. Attached is the picture of the unit.

Thanks in advance.

Since no one responded to my post, and I found the solution myself, I am posting this for the benefit of anyone else who may face this issue.

The following was observed:
Primary Drain was missing the cap from where bleach is poured. This was leaking cold air.

Turned off AC Unit using switch in attic next to unit.
1. I plugged the hole leading to the primary drain, below the outlet connecting from primary drain pan, using a sponge tied with a string.
2. Poured 50 :50 bleach and water solution to the bleach hole. Since the pipe to primary drain was blocked, this solution went to primary drain pan through primary drain outlet. Poured about 2 liters of this solution total.
3. Left this solution for about 1 hour.
4. Used a wet dry vacuum and sucked this bleach solution from primary drain.
5. Observed that sucked liquid contained bleach solution and some fiber glass flakes from the insulation. Did NOT see any algae.
6. Pulled out the sponge blocking the primary drain exit and covered the bleach pouring hole with this sponge.
7. Started HVAC unit. This created a bleach smelled outlet air for about 3 hours which became normal.
8. No more leakage water in secondary drain pan. :)
Problem solved.

[BikerEric]

Since no one responded to my post, and I found the solution myself, I am posting this for the benefit of anyone else who may face this issue.

The following was observed:
Primary Drain was missing the cap from where bleach is poured. This was leaking cold air.

Turned off AC Unit using switch in attic next to unit.
1. I plugged the hole leading to the primary drain, below the outlet connecting from primary drain pan, using a sponge tied with a string.
2. Poured 50 :50 bleach and water solution to the bleach hole. Since the pipe to primary drain was blocked, this solution went to primary drain pan through primary drain outlet. Poured about 2 liters of this solution total.
3. Left this solution for about 1 hour.
4. Used a wet dry vacuum and sucked this bleach solution from primary drain.
5. Observed that sucked liquid contained bleach solution and some fiber glass flakes from the insulation. Did NOT see any algae.
6. Pulled out the sponge blocking the primary drain exit and covered the bleach pouring hole with this sponge.
7. Started HVAC unit. This created a bleach smelled outlet air for about 3 hours which became normal.
8. No more leakage water in secondary drain pan. :)
Problem solved.

Instead of beach, try spray nine or mr clean. the smells aren't sp bad after wards
Sorry I missed this thread.

It does sound like you did everything correctly too.

[BikerEric]

It is a gas water heater A.O.Smith FGR-40. So water heater => doesn't have to be full? I figure it would need a lot of citric acid to make a solution for the entire heater.

I have never descaled a unit in this method before. I have flushed and have replaced the anode rod before.
If you are going to fire up the unit , it must be full, or you will burn out the eco ( behind the stat) or torch and warp the tank and the flue pipe going through.

If you have that much of a problem, you need to have a water treatment set installed in your house.


Your take, TakeTheActive?

[OP]

i can't believe what I just did...i literally just dropped a toilet bolt down the sewer pipe ...unbelieavable .... oh well, guess it won't hurt anything

[Wasser]

I have never descaled a unit in this method before. I have flushed and have replaced the anode rod before.
If you are going to fire up the unit , it must be full, or you will burn out the eco ( behind the stat) or torch and warp the tank and the flue pipe going through.

If you have that much of a problem, you need to have a water treatment set installed in your house.

Thanks for your help BE! This specific unit doesn't have an anode rod. Rather than turning it on to heat the water, I'll heat some on the stove and activate the acid that way.

Water here is very hard indeed, but I rather not use a water softener (plants and aquarium fish don't like it).

[stufine]

i can't believe what I just did...i literally just dropped a toilet bolt down the sewer pipe ...unbelieavable .... oh well, guess it won't hurt anything

i wouldnt lose sleep over it

[ShovelWare]

i can't believe what I just did...i literally just dropped a toilet bolt down the sewer pipe
Just pretend you didn't see it happen and be glad it wasn't your keys. :) Unless it was an unusually long bolt I'd be inclined to let it ride. Its a roll of the dice if it will cause a problem, but Its the curve at the bowl that causes most back ups. Past that its usually smooth sailing.

My first post in this thread. I've got an AC problem.

Working on my vacant rental apartment today the blower fan wasn’t blowing.
This is a split A/C unit with inside coils and fan under the house in the ducting and the compressor and coils outside.
The outside coil fan was running as was the compressor as there was ice built up all over the lines.
Having been to this rodeo a few times I go under the house to clean the inside coils only to find them clean. As a side note, despite having trashed the carpet this tenant is the first tenant ever that actually changed the air filter.
I read up on the blower fan capacitor being a common problem so I went back and pulled it out to check it out. With an ohmmeter between the posts it reads nothing (infinite resistance). Does this indicate it has failed?
The numbers have faded off and I can’t tell what they all say. To try to wrangle up the part. (assuming you guys advise that it has failed) I need some help identifying it. I think the number in the top left says 9FF900 but it is too faded to be sure.
The inside under the house assembly has on it Goodman Mfg. model A30-10 serial #9901471904 and outside compressor and coil unit is Goodman Mfg. CPKE30-1B serial 9812451136
There is a schematic on the service panel of the inside unit that I can upload a pic of if that will help but I didn’t see anything on the schematic that indicated what the rating of the capacitor was.

[TakeTheActive]

Disclaimer: I'm an "Old Fart" / Techie (Programmer/Analyst - Homeowner since 1977) / NEWLY *REGISTERED* User / OLD Lurker on SD who found your problem interesting and am offering my 'NON-HVAC Professional' thoughts / ideas... :bulb:

...My first post in this thread...
So what? :wave: (So *MANY* folks post these "disqualifiers", or something similar, prefixing so *MANY* posts, on so *MANY* different forums - WHY BOTHER? - IMHO, JUST ASK YOUR QUESTION!)

...
I've got an AC problem.

... the blower fan wasn’t blowing.

This is a split A/C unit with inside coils and fan under the house in the ducting and the compressor and coils outside.

The outside coil fan was running as was the compressor as there was ice built up all over the lines.
Having been to this rodeo a few times I go under the house to clean the inside coils only to find them clean...
Sounds 'somewhat' logical - I've also seen low refrigerant levels cause ice to form on 'parts' on both window and auto A/C systems. I've personally never run an A/C system without a fan blowing over the evaporator coils, so I'll leave it up to the 'HVAC Experts' to DEFINITELY answer whether that can also cause ice to form (but, with the 'Lack of Heat' from ambient air circulation across the evaporator coils, resulting in 'Lower-Than-Designed-For' temperatures, COMBINED with YOUR research below, I imagine it could happen :thinking: ).

...I read up on the blower fan capacitor being a common problem so I went back and pulled it out to check it out. With an ohmmeter between the posts it reads nothing (infinite resistance). Does this indicate it has failed?
Are you familiar with the old children's rhyme about the 'Church / People / Steeple' that folks do with their two hands? A capacitor is like the fingers in your two hands INTERLACED but NOT TOUCHING. You can 'sort of' test it with a VOM / DMM. You won't be able to determine if it's at its RATED VALUE, but you will know if it's SHORTED or OPEN (both BAD!). I found this (easier than typing it all in) on GOOGLE:
You can use your multimeter as an ohmmeter to test the capacitor.
Discharge the capacitor by shortening its leads. That is - use a wire and connect the leads of the capacitor together. This will discharge it.
.
put your multimeter in the high ranges 10K-1M
.
CONNECT MULTIMETER TO CAPACITOR LEADS(OBSERVE THE POLARITY IF ELECTROLYTIC). AT SOON AS THE LEADS MAKE CONTACT, THE METER WILL SWING NEAR ZERO. IT WILL THEN MOVE SLOWLY TOWARD INFINITY. FINALLY THE METER WOULD COME TO BE INFINITE OHMS BECAUSE THE CAPACITOR IS BEING CHARGED BY THE BATTERY OF THE MULTIMETER.
.
IF THE CAPACITOR IS BAD, IT WILL GO TO ZERO OHMS AND REMAIN THERE. THIS IS CALLED A SHORTENED CAPACITOR
.
IN THE CASE OF AN OPEN CAPACITOR THERE WILL BE NO OHMMETER INDICATION.
.
SOME CAPACITORS HAVE A LOW DIELECTRIC LEAKAGE. YOU WILL KNOW THIS IF THE OHMMETER COMES TO REST AT A POINT LOWER THAN INFINITE. TEST A KNOWN GOOD CAPACITOR OF THE SAME TYPE TO BE SURE...which is pretty much as I remember it - an ohmmeter (VOM / DMM) will initially go to ZERO as the capacitor ABSORBS a charge from the battery inside the ohmmeter. Once it has SOAKED UP as much as it can, the reading will (gradually / rather QUICKLY) go to INFINITY, since, in actuality, there is no *REAL*, CONTINUOUS connection between the 2 poles of a capacitor.

...The numbers have faded off and I can’t tell what they all say. To try to wrangle up the part. (assuming you guys advise that it has failed) I need some help identifying it. I think the number in the top left says 9FF900 but it is too faded to be sure.
The inside under the house assembly has on it Goodman Mfg. model A30-10 serial #9901471904 and outside compressor and coil unit is Goodman Mfg. CPKE30-1B serial 9812451136
There is a schematic on the service panel of the inside unit that I can upload a pic of if that will help but I didn’t see anything on the schematic that indicated what the rating of the capacitor was.
I GOOGLE'd several combinations of both the letters / numbers in your post and the letters / numbers readable off your photo. I came up with:
Goodman Mfg. Model A30-10 - REPAIR PARTS: 1.5 and 2.5 Ton A SERIES Air Handler w/Coil (securenet.goodmanmfg.com/pdf/infoPdf/Lit/RP-513.PDF)
Is Part #161 on Page 4 your capacitor?
__________________________________________________

:unclesam: :woot: :worship:GOOGLE is your friend:worship: :woot: :superman:

I recently read in my 'Local Sunday Paper' "things / items" for a college professor to realize that the new / incoming freshmen class WON'T understand. :confused: (If there's an interest, a website was posted. IIRC, it goes back SEVERAL years!)

One point was a LIBRARY - while 2010 college freshmen MAY realize that PUBLIC LIBRARYs exist, they also question WHY one would bother PHYSICALLY going to a PUBLIC LIBRARY when the INTERNET exists.

I can recall *MANY* times, 40+ years ago, when I would walk / drive to the PUBLIC LIBRARY to look up something, pay the IIRC 5 cents-per-page copier fee for the MOST RELEVANT pages, and return home.
(Again, IIRC, MOTOR's and CHILTON'S Manual pages were what I copied most often.)

*MANY* times I see folks posting questions on various forums that, IMHO, they could have found 'nearly instantly' by using GOOGLE. Give it a shot. PRACTICE!
LEARN how to use the various OPTIONS.
LEARN how to CHOOSE appropriate SEARCH PARAMETERS!
Hopefully, since this soliloquy is APPENDED to a valid reply, the 'possible' divergence from the 'Commandments' won't be a problem...

[Q-Bert]

I read up on the blower fan capacitor being a common problem so I went back and pulled it out to check it out. With an ohmmeter between the posts it reads nothing (infinite resistance). Does this indicate it has failed?


You cannot properly test a capacitor with a DMM. The only thing you can really do is verify it has not shorted out. Set the DMM to OHM and it should read open. If you get a reading the capacitor is shorted and needs replacing. If you are sure of what you are doing, verify the blower is getting power. If there is power at the blower terminals, then you need to either check the starting cap or the blower motor. If there is no power at the blower terminals, then you have a problem with the circuit board.

[ShovelWare]

So what? :wave: (So *MANY* folks post these "[B]disqualifiers", or something similar, prefixing so *MANY* posts, on so *MANY* different forums - WHY BOTHER? - IMHO, JUST ASK YOUR QUESTION!)

I GOOGLE'd several combinations of both the letters / numbers in your post and the letters / numbers readable off your photo. I came up with:
Goodman Mfg. Model A30-10 - REPAIR PARTS: 1.5 and 2.5 Ton A SERIES Air Handler w/Coil (securenet.goodmanmfg.com/pdf/infoPdf/Lit/RP-513.PDF)
Is Part #161 on Page 4 your capacitor?
[CENTER]

*MANY* times I see folks posting questions on various forums that, IMHO, they could have found 'nearly instantly' by using GOOGLE. Give it a shot.[list]Hopefully, since this soliloquy is APPENDED to a valid reply, the 'possible' divergence from the 'Commandments' won't be a problem...[/SIZE]

Something must have gotten lost in the inflection. I mentioned its my first post in the thread to flag folks that frequent this thread that I may not have the flow and vibe right which it would seem that I don't. So sorry.
Im very very versed in google and did spend some time there before I posted my question. I share your frustration with people that haven't googled first. I hadn't come across the manual you found though. That is a solid lead indeed. Thanks.
You cannot properly test a capacitor with a DMM. The only thing you can really do is verify it has not shorted out. Set the DMM to OHM and it should read open. If you get a reading the capacitor is shorted and needs replacing. If you are sure of what you are doing, verify the blower is getting power. If there is power at the blower terminals, then you need to either check the starting cap or the blower motor. If there is no power at the blower terminals, then you have a problem with the circuit board.
It does read open regardless of the ohm range I set the DMM to. I don't get the swing to 0 before going back up to open that is mentioned in some tutorials.

The fan does not blow when you set the controls at the thermostat to fan always on.
So if there is power to the blower this still doesn't eliminate the cap right? As in the cap can be passing voltage through but not not storing it correctly for the start up kick.

Edit: got a nice AC tech that was picking up some parts at the supply store to test it for me. Tests within tolerance at 655 farad and it is a 7.5v unit. He advised fan motor or relay switch are the next things to check.

[Q-Bert]

Edit: got a nice AC tech that was picking up some parts at the supply store to test it for me. Tests within tolerance at 655 farad and it is a 7.5v unit. He advised fan motor or relay switch are the next things to check.

Are you sure the starting cap is 7.5V? it should be rated at least 120V unless your blower has a 7.5V motor.

Check power at the circuit board output terminals with DMM with thermostat set to FAN: ON.
You should have power. No power, replace board. Good power, replace motor.

[ShovelWare]

Working!
At least it was when I left.
Testing power to the fan I started working my way up the lines to the next part which turns out to be a Sequencer. I found that I could jump the fan leads and make the fan work. This eliminated both the fan motor and the capacitor as the source of the problem.
I slid into the parts store minutes before they closed with that part in my hand. The guy helped me figure out if it had failed but we couldn't know for sure without knowing if it was getting 24v supplied to it on the correct places.
Rolled the dice and bought the part. Turns out it was the culprit.
$39 for the Sequencer part and total satisfaction that I got it working and that it wasn't something more expensive like the board.

[stufine]

BE thats some funny sheet there

[The.Walrus]

At work we have a refrigerator that has stopped cooling, but the freezer still works fine. It's a top and bottom model.

Whirlpool
Model #: ET21GKXHW00
Mfg. Date: 04-99

We pulled the pan out from underneath and it was filthy, but dry. I had noticed a bit of moisture coming from the front right of the fridge the other day (on the floor).

[Q-Bert]

At work we have a refrigerator that has stopped cooling, but the freezer still works fine. It's a top and bottom model.

Whirlpool
Model #: ET21GKXHW00
Mfg. Date: 04-99

We pulled the pan out from underneath and it was filthy, but dry. I had noticed a bit of moisture coming from the front right of the fridge the other day (on the floor).

Defrost Timer or bimetal

Remove panel in back of the freezer, note all the ice that has formed. Use hair dryer to melt ice completely.

Defrost timer $16: http://www.appliancepartspros.com/part_details.aspx?part_id=3110896&image=3

Bimetal $18: http://www.appliancepartspros.com/part_details.aspx?part_id=3108454

[stufine]

does the fan still run up top? if its not draining...it could have blocked the fan blades from turning. or the fan could have went bad.

[BikerEric]

Check for
Fan rotation ( if not possible fan motor)
Ice Build up Blocking fan (possibly the defrost stat or defrost timer )
the defrost stat ( or bimetal) should not be bubbled or popped open
is there ice buildup in the aluminum trough? (drain trough) water would have been leaking into the fridge compartment.


the defrost timer is in the fridge compartment
if you look at the bottom of the control panal
you should see a hole (1/2 3/4 inch diameter)
you can stick a wide blade straight screwdriver in the hole and slowly twist the control until the compressor stops and then the heater should come on ( and glow red for about 10 mins) and take about 20 minutes until the compressor comes back on

on this model I have replaced both the fan motor and defrost timers ( so I can't give you a 'most of time' cure)

[The.Walrus]

Thanks, I'll report back what we find.

[wperry1]

Electric Top Loading Washing Machine (ca 1991)
Maytag Model# A8420 (S/N 205485 DK)

A Month or so ago the machine started making more noise than normal during hte agitation cycle. (Squeaking/Screetching)
Last week the spin cycle failed ot get up to speed and my wife smelled burning rubber.
I replaced the belts from a local appliance parts store.
Now the Agitation and spin cycles are running very slowly and it is making the (squeaking/Screetching) noise again.

Let me know if you need any further information or pictures.

Thanks in advance for any advice.

[BikerEric]

Electric Top Loading Washing Machine (ca 1991)
Maytag Model# A8420 (S/N 205485 DK)

A Month or so ago the machine started making more noise than normal during hte agitation cycle. (Squeaking/Screetching)
Last week the spin cycle failed ot get up to speed and my wife smelled burning rubber.
I replaced the belts from a local appliance parts store.
Now the Agitation and spin cycles are running very slowly and it is making the (squeaking/Screetching) noise again.

Let me know if you need any further information or pictures.

Thanks in advance for any advice.

With the machine turned off , if you shake the tub/agitator does it squeak?
if so, part of the problem is the Damper Pad Kit (http://www.pcappliancerepair.com/part-detail.php?sku=203956&brand=WPL)
but with the slowness , I'm thinking the transmission may be shot (if it is , trash it) and buy a new whirlpool.

[wperry1]

With the machine turned off , if you shake the tub/agitator does it squeak?
if so, part of the problem is the Damper Pad Kit (http://www.pcappliancerepair.com/part-detail.php?sku=203956&brand=WPL)
but with the slowness , I'm thinking the transmission may be shot (if it is , trash it) and buy a new whirlpool.

Thanks for such a prompt reply. There's no squeaking when shaking the tub or agitator so I guess it's off to find a deal on a new washer :(

[mkarias1]

This is probably a dumb question but what are the "rules" regarding tipping the HVAC guys? I am having a furnace replaced today. There are 2 guys replacing it. Does one normally tip them? Not sure what is the proper etiquette. If so, how much? thanks

[LiquidRetro]

I have a general question. I just moved into a new house and the AC unit is about 15 years old. I dont know when the last time it was serviced. Its been pretty hot here recently and I am wondering what temp the air should be that is coming out of my vents? It seems to be not as cold as it should but I would like to avoid a service call if its in the "Normal" range for a unit of that age. Any help here is appreciated.

I thought I would update this after BikerEric provided some help in saying I needed to do a Delta T test.

I did the delta T and got a 7. Obviously this was not enough cooling and it really showed on some of the 100 degree days. The AC guys came out and put in 2lbs of R-22 and said I had a leak in my Coil. Replacement is $710 installed. This seems like quite a bit of money to spend on an old unit, so this is what I am thinking.

The local electric utility has some energy credits going on currently for heat pumps and A/C's. Units under 16.99 SEER rating gets $150 per ton, and units with a rating of 17+ SEER get $500 per ton. The federal government then has energy credits that cover upto 30% of the total cost. (Not sure of the specifics here). So would it be worth it to start looking at a new heatpump? About what would one of these cost (probably a 2.5-3 Ton Unit)?

[marciad33]

Hello,
I am looking for any info that you may have on my fridge that is giving me problems. The evap coil keeps freezing up on my side by side electric fridge. We have replaced the defrost heater several times and the mother board. I recently had someone come out to diagnose the problem and he said we had a bad motherboard so we replaced it again and its doing the same thing.

The fridge will get up to approx. 60 degrees and once we pull the cover off the inside of the freezer it is completely iced over we defrost w/a blow dryer and it will be good for a few days and then the same thing happens. What else could it possibly be. My fiance did the exact same thing this repair guy did and came up with the mother board being bad we replace and the same thing happens and I don't want to have to pay for another repair guy to come out. Please help.

[BikerEric]

This is probably a dumb question but what are the "rules" regarding tipping the HVAC guys? I am having a furnace replaced today. There are 2 guys replacing it. Does one normally tip them? Not sure what is the proper etiquette. If so, how much? thanks

If they go out of their way to do something maybe 10-15 each

Otherwise keep them happy with plenty of cold ice water

[BikerEric]

I thought I would update this after BikerEric provided some help in saying I needed to do a Delta T test.

I did the delta T and got a 7. Obviously this was not enough cooling and it really showed on some of the 100 degree days. The AC guys came out and put in 2lbs of R-22 and said I had a leak in my Coil. Replacement is $710 installed. This seems like quite a bit of money to spend on an old unit, so this is what I am thinking.

The local electric utility has some energy credits going on currently for heat pumps and A/C's. Units under 16.99 SEER rating gets $150 per ton, and units with a rating of 17+ SEER get $500 per ton. The federal government then has energy credits that cover upto 30% of the total cost. (Not sure of the specifics here). So would it be worth it to start looking at a new heatpump? About what would one of these cost (probably a 2.5-3 Ton Unit)?

I'd just wait and see how often you will need freon
If it's once a season or 2 two , I just have it topped off
If it more than once a season , replacement is needed

How old is the system overall?
710 for a coil ( depending on tonnage is not too bad.

[LiquidRetro]

I'd just wait and see how often you will need freon
If it's once a season or 2 two , I just have it topped off
If it more than once a season , replacement is needed

How old is the system overall?
710 for a coil ( depending on tonnage is not too bad.

Its the original with the house. So right at 14 years old. I have read the useful lifespan is about 10-12 years.

My service call to come out and recharge was $110 but included a furnace check as well so I would probably be looking at about $80 for every recharge.

[pyrux]

Hi,

I got a question. My wife went out today and bought a washer and dryer from hhgregg for $898, the models as follow: Samsung WF210ANW (Washer) , Samsung DV210AEW (Drier).

The question is: Did she do good, or should I ask for an exchange. We are a familiy of four and a lot of cloths to wash. Also do you recommend the extra warranty, or...?!?

Any help would be appreciated!

[BikerEric]

Its the original with the house. So right at 14 years old. I have read the useful lifespan is about 10-12 years.

My service call to come out and recharge was $110 but included a furnace check as well so I would probably be looking at about $80 for every recharge.


If I couldn't afford the new unit I certainly would consider 80 bucks every year

Hi,

I got a question. My wife went out today and bought a washer and dryer from hhgregg for $898, the models as follow: Samsung WF210ANW (Washer) , Samsung DV210AEW (Drier).

The question is: Did she do good, or should I ask for an exchange. We are a familiy of four and a lot of cloths to wash. Also do you recommend the extra warranty, or...?!?

Any help would be appreciated!

I am not a fan of samsung as they are hard to get parts for.
I like the whirlpool front loads
If you stay with the sammys I would seriously consider the extended warranty

[BikerEric]

Hello,
I am looking for any info that you may have on my fridge that is giving me problems. The evap coil keeps freezing up on my side by side electric fridge. We have replaced the defrost heater several times and the mother board. I recently had someone come out to diagnose the problem and he said we had a bad motherboard so we replaced it again and its doing the same thing.

The fridge will get up to approx. 60 degrees and once we pull the cover off the inside of the freezer it is completely iced over we defrost w/a blow dryer and it will be good for a few days and then the same thing happens. What else could it possibly be. My fiance did the exact same thing this repair guy did and came up with the mother board being bad we replace and the same thing happens and I don't want to have to pay for another repair guy to come out. Please help.

I would keep having the tech come back out on recalls. I understand you don't trust him anymore , but the replacement boards ( which are under a GE warranty for 1 year) would be covered as well as his labor

On these units we have had major problems with the boards the heaters and the thermistors


Board Assembly Main Control
[URL="http://www.pcappliancerepair.com/part-detail.php?sku=WR51X10101&brand=GEN"]
Defrost Heater
p/n: WR51X10101 (http://www.pcappliancerepair.com/part-detail.php?sku=WR55X10942&brand=GEN)
this is the upgrade 2 tube heater assembly ( replacing a 1 tube assembly)
CLIP EVAP THERMISTOR
p/n: WR02X10552 (http://www.pcappliancerepair.com/part-detail.php?sku=WR02X10552&brand=GEN)

the tech can put this into a self diagnostic mode which will check each componant

I would call and raise hell to the company to get this fixed !!!! but that's me.

[marciad33]

Well that is the thing I found a guy off of craigslist that was an appliance tech and I will be calling him back but I think I may have been scammed which is my own fault. The motherboard I purchased from Serval in MI and it has a lifetime warranty so I can keep getting new boards but it doesn't seem like the new board helps. My type of fridge is older so I don't think you can put mine into a self diagnostic mode. Right now I have to call GE and see if I can get a service manual on my fridge and see if my fiance can read that and possibly try some things but he has tried everything. Thanks for you input I do appreciate it.

[BikerEric]

Well that is the thing I found a guy off of craigslist that was an appliance tech and I will be calling him back but I think I may have been scammed which is my own fault. The motherboard I purchased from Serval in MI and it has a lifetime warranty so I can keep getting new boards but it doesn't seem like the new board helps. My type of fridge is older so I don't think you can put mine into a self diagnostic mode. Right now I have to call GE and see if I can get a service manual on my fridge and see if my fiance can read that and possibly try some things but he has tried everything. Thanks for you input I do appreciate it.

Did you say you replaced the heater??

[dude2000]

I have old carrier electronic air filter.
It stopped working sometime ago , i took it a part found a broken part.
Unfortunately nobody can identity this part and digi-key doesn’t list this part.
part reads : TRW84840RB-4 30M15%
model / layout and part location in the attached files

[BikerEric]

I have old carrier electronic air filter.
It stopped working sometime ago , i took it a part found a broken part.
Unfortunately nobody can identity this part and digi-key doesn’t list this part.
part reads : TRW84840RB-4 30M15%
model / layout and part location in the attached files

It looks to be the power supply for the unit
you have the 120 Line) coming in
goes to the xfrmr
12 volt (?) most likely
out to a rectifier
and then powering the low voltage system

A little digging and hers is what I found
power supply unit for
http://www.appliancefactoryparts.com/search/partinfo.php?partsID=276964&modelsID=110796&typeName=air%20cleaner eac
(http://www.appliancefactoryparts.com/search/partinfo.php?partsID=276964&modelsID=110796&typeName=air%20cleaner)


LMGTFY (http://lmgtfy.com/?q=carrier+31mp514110+power+supply)
just so you can see what I did.

[Q-Bert]

I have old carrier electronic air filter.
It stopped working sometime ago , i took it a part found a broken part.
Unfortunately nobody can identity this part and digi-key doesn’t list this part.
part reads : TRW84840RB-4 30M15%
model / layout and part location in the attached files

The blue part that's cracked looks like a capacitor to me.

I can't find an equivalent.
TRW is probably the manufacturer
8480 RB-4 might be TRW's part number, not sure.
30M is 30,000 volt
15% is the tolerance

These power supplies put out high voltage (several thousand volts) low current. Not sure I'd try to work a cap in there if I wasn't sure of the part. If the power supply is shot you might consider replacing the whole unit.

[BikerEric]

It looks to be the power supply for the unit
you have the 120 Line) coming in
goes to the xfrmr
12 volt (?) most likely
out to a rectifier
and then powering the low voltage system

A little digging and hers is what I found
power supply unit for
http://www.appliancefactoryparts.com/search/partinfo.php?partsID=276964&modelsID=110796&typeName=air%20cleaner eac
(http://www.appliancefactoryparts.com/search/partinfo.php?partsID=276964&modelsID=110796&typeName=air%20cleaner)




LMGTFY (http://lmgtfy.com/?q=carrier+31mp514110+power+supply)
just so you can see what I did.


I'll go with QBert on the ratings
but there are the part numbers above

[zangwang]

Hi!

I have a Kenmore dryer Model No. 110.62052100. The dryer came with the house so I am not aware as to how old it is. The problem is that the dryer intermittently starts beeping like crazy at different times. There is no set pattern, sometimes it does not occur for many days and then suddenly it will start beeping for a few days (again not continuously). Also, sometimes the control panel becomes unresponsive so no matter what button you press on the dryer nothing happens and nothing lights up on the panel. The light comes on when you open the dryer door so there is power supply is there but it does not work. And then randomly after a day or sometimes more if you try turning it on, it starts working. Sometimes the dryer only works on the highest heat setting and you cannot change it to any other setting. At other times it works fine. It is almost like everytime you go to use it you don't know what to expect. This happened for a few days last fall and then everything was fine for a while and now it has started again.

Is there something I can do to fix this problem or is it time to start looking for a new dryer. Also, the previous owners have not left a manual for us so unfortunately we cannot try to troubleshoot using that.

Thanks for all your help!

[dude2000]

thanks

[Dr. J]

Hi,

I got a question. My wife went out today and bought a washer and dryer from hhgregg for $898, the models as follow: Samsung WF210ANW (Washer) , Samsung DV210AEW (Drier).

The question is: Did she do good, or should I ask for an exchange. We are a familiy of four and a lot of cloths to wash. Also do you recommend the extra warranty, or...?!?

Any help would be appreciated!

We recently bought samsung w/d. They've been working well. I am quite surprised at how little water the frontloaders use, which directly translates into less drying time as well.

[pyrux]

We recently bought samsung w/d. They've been working well. I am quite surprised at how little water the frontloaders use, which directly translates into less drying time as well.

I'm surprised at how silent the washer is, can barely hear it. All in all, they were a good buy.

[Dr. J]

I'm surprised at how silent the washer is, can barely hear it. All in all, they were a good buy.

Again I think that's due to the very low amount of water used. Less water = less noise from sloshing but also I'd be the motors don't have to be as beefy - an avg 4.5 cft top loader will have about 225 lbs of water in it when full!

[wingrider]

My mom has an old Whirlpool washer, Model LA5700XSW1, Serial C74815037. This thing stinks. What do we need to get to to clean to get rid of the smell? Running Clorox through it only helps for a little bit.

[.DC.]

BE...looks like our AC and Heater units are needing to be replaced...AC bill is sky high...

It's a dual zone ac unit but the board fried (was wired 48 volts but required only 24 volts) and i've got rust in my drain pan from the ac unit in my attic...word on the street is that the contractor that put them in was total bottom budget and did crap installs...

New unit will be High-efficiency for both ac and heat (natural gas) from Lennox. Bell Bro's (http://bellbroshvac.com/) (local sacto co is putting it in)

IS that a good brand?

Due to the Efficiency rating, we are to be able to get state and fed rebates as well from the electric and gas co's.

*I don't have the model number on me (it's at home)

[stufine]

BE, quick question on an older 1st gen electronic sparker. when everything is off i'll get a spark about every 30sec to 1 min. when i turn them on to light it sparks fast and lights like normal.

[BikerEric]

BE, quick question on an older 1st gen electronic sparker. when everything is off i'll get a spark about every 30sec to 1 min. when i turn them on to light it sparks fast and lights like normal.

check the grounds
especially at the outlet

[TakeTheActive]

...quick question on an older 1st gen electronic sparker. when everything is off i'll get a spark about every 30sec to 1 min. when i turn them on to light it sparks fast and lights like normal. What's a 'sparker'?
What's a 'QUICK' question?
What's a 'SLOW' question?

As a self-acknowledged "Old Fart", I'm CONSTANTLY confused as to the difference between a: QUICK question
REGULAR / i.e. Normal question
SLOW question
Getting back to the 'sparker', my FIRST thoughts go to the piezoelectric igniter on my (old) outdoor grill. But, since *MY* 'Natural Gas' stove still has pilot lights, my second thoughts go to a newer 'Natural Gas' stove.

Solely from watching COOKING SHOWS on (Cable) TV, I have the (correct or incorrect) understanding that the piezoelectric element is *ONLY* enabled when the burner control is turned to FULL (maybe it says LIGHT BURNER or ON - I dunno).

Thus, my FIRST thoughts regarding YOUR problem point to a bad burner controller (the THINGIE the knob is directly connected to) - i.e. *SOMETHING* is causing the piezoelectric 'sparker' to SPARK when it shouldn't - LOW RESISTANCE (but not total) SHORT?!?. My SECOND thoughts would look at the piezoelectric igniter itself - if you disconnect it from the burner controller, does it *STILL* ignite 'randomly'?__________________________________________________

Previously, I've been ridiculed / criticized for expressing my thoughts / opinions in this thread (Dr. J, Are You Still Interested in a Solution to your HVAC Problem? (http://slickdeals.net/forums/showpost.php?p=31928259&postcount=130)).

Does the fact that BikerEric (http://slickdeals.net/forums/member.php?u=21045) created this thread mean: *ONLY* BikerEric (http://slickdeals.net/forums/member.php?u=21045) can post replies to other member's questions?
.
BikerEric's (http://slickdeals.net/forums/member.php?u=21045) replies are *ALWAYS* correct / i.e. the *BEST* possible answer?
P.S. In *NO* WAY am I attempting to UNDERMINE / DEGRADE BikerEric's (http://slickdeals.net/forums/member.php?u=21045) efforts. When I post in THIS thread, I'm solely trying to SHARE and/or INCREASE my current knowledge on this topic. I did not appreciate, nor did I choose to reply to BikerEric's (http://slickdeals.net/forums/member.php?u=21045) 'poor taste / sarcastic' replies / posts to me (regarding my QUESTIONing of his reply to Post #130 (http://slickdeals.net/forums/showpost.php?p=31928259&postcount=130)). (Insecurity?)

P.P.S. stufine (http://slickdeals.net/forums/member.php?u=182558),

Only by re-reading the old posts in this thread did I remember your 'bonehead' comment (Post #117 (http://slickdeals.net/forums/showpost.php?p=31854033&postcount=117)). Regardless, I'm still willing to share my knowledge / experience / opinion for YOUR current problem.

(OTOH, If you're so darn smart, why can't you TROUBLESHOOT this problem by yourself? ;) It apears rather straightforward to me - Bad IGNITER or CONTROLLER)

P.P.P.S Dr. J (http://slickdeals.net/forums/member.php?u=79334),

After all of the PERSONAL TIME that I voluntarily invested into *YOUR* HVAC problem, it's 'unfortunate' that you 'don't have the time' / lost interest in the solution...

P.P.P.P.S. I'm a semi-disabled / currently UNEMPLOYED / Programmer/Analyst - *SO*, BESIDES the personal satisfaction I get from ANSWERing some random person's question(s), I *ALSO* get some 'pleasure' from FORMATTING my replies - a sort of (simple) programming language in itself. ;)
__________________________________________________

Random Facts (Member / Total Posts): BikerEric (http://slickdeals.net/forums/member.php?u=21045): 15,989
stufine (http://slickdeals.net/forums/member.php?u=182558): 3,875
Dr. J (http://slickdeals.net/forums/member.php?u=79334): 14,174
TakeTheActive (http://slickdeals.net/forums/member.php?u=963804): 50BOTTOM LINE: I don't post on forums seeking GRANDIOSE accolades. I don't (INTENTIONALLY) ridicule / criticize / insult other members. And, in return, I expect the same consideration.

Random readers of this this thread can come to their own conclusions....

[Q-Bert]

BOTTOM LINE: I don't post on forums seeking GRANDIOSE accolades. I don't (INTENTIONALLY) ridicule / criticize / insult other members. And, in return, I expect the same consideration.

Random readers of this this thread can come to their own conclusions....

:facepalm:

51 post wonder.... :rolleyes:

[Q-Bert]

BE... need some help..

I've purchased a Frigidaire FPUH17D7KF All freezer. The darn thing creates frost up at the top of the interior at the jamb of the door (just in front of the lights). The seal is all good. I've checked all the way around for leaks. The only thing I could think of is that the heat the the lamp creates when it turns on when I open the door, heats the area around there and when the light shuts off the condensation freezes back up. I've tried removing the lamp so there's no light on in the freezer to see if it continues to freeze up. The frost created takes several days to get about 1/2 thick.

Here's some pics of the location where the frost is created.

I appreciate any insight you can provide.

[Q-Bert]

never mind

no please ignore him... don't let the trolls win..

[BikerEric]

BE... need some help..

I've purchased a Frigidaire FPUH17D7KF All freezer. The darn thing creates frost up at the top of the interior at the jamb of the door (just in front of the lights). The seal is all good. I've checked all the way around for leaks. The only thing I could think of is that the heat the the lamp creates when it turns on when I open the door, heats the area around there and when the light shuts off the condensation freezes back up. I've tried removing the lamp so there's no light on in the freezer to see if it continues to freeze up. The frost created takes several days to get about 1/2 thick.

Here's some pics of the location where the frost is created.

I appreciate any insight you can provide.
sometimes you need to put a bright light inside to check the sealing (in a darkened room)
Is the door sealing tightly?
Is there a possibility that there is a gap around the door seal corners?


I have ,in the past, had to silicone seal the gaps and seams to stop this problem.


You may ,as a guess, have to remove the light panel and install some fibreglass insulation ( as it may be missing , or not installed originally)

[Q-Bert]

sometimes you need to put a bright light inside to check the sealing (in a darkened room)
Is the door sealing tightly?
Is there a possibility that there is a gap around the door seal corners?


I have ,in the past, had to silicone seal the gaps and seams to stop this problem.


You may ,as a guess, have to remove the light panel and install some fibreglass insulation ( as it may be missing , or not installed originally)

Thanks.. I'll try the light trick tomorrow. I'll use a nice bright halogen. Pretty sure I checked the seal all around with tissue paper. I'll check the corners again. Would something like this be covered by a warranty?

[BikerEric]

Thanks.. I'll try the light trick tomorrow. I'll use a nice bright halogen. Pretty sure I checked the seal all around with tissue paper. I'll check the corners again. Would something like this be covered by a warranty?

Within the first year , it most certainly should be covered!

[stufine]

i would be the bonehead if i took advice on a Gas stove from a programmer!
I'll sum up the questions

Quick question gets an answer in 3 seconds
normal question gets an umm in the answer
slow questions are saved for boneheads and their answers

open ground problem might be it since this apt. doesnt have grounded outlets.

Thanks BE!!!

[jj970]

Hey BE,

Thanks for your help and advice.

Any good recs for a econo built in dishwasher? I'm talking about $300 or so...

Thanks.

Jason

[BikerEric]

Hey BE,

Thanks for your help and advice.

Any good recs for a econo built in dishwasher? I'm talking about $300 or so...

Thanks.

Jason

Whirlpool or GE
or even a Kenmore (where the model number starts with a 665.)

[callpocket]

What's a 'sparker'?
What's a 'QUICK' question?
What's a 'SLOW' question?

As a self-acknowledged "Old Fart", I'm CONSTANTLY confused as to the difference between a: QUICK question
REGULAR / i.e. Normal question
SLOW question
Getting back to the 'sparker', my FIRST thoughts go to the piezoelectric igniter on my (old) outdoor grill. But, since *MY* 'Natural Gas' stove still has pilot lights, my second thoughts go to a newer 'Natural Gas' stove.

Solely from watching COOKING SHOWS on (Cable) TV, I have the (correct or incorrect) understanding that the piezoelectric element is *ONLY* enabled when the burner control is turned to FULL (maybe it says LIGHT BURNER or ON - I dunno).

Thus, my FIRST thoughts regarding YOUR problem point to a bad burner controller (the THINGIE the knob is directly connected to) - i.e. *SOMETHING* is causing the piezoelectric 'sparker' to SPARK when it shouldn't - LOW RESISTANCE (but not total) SHORT?!?. My SECOND thoughts would look at the piezoelectric igniter itself - if you disconnect it from the burner controller, does it *STILL* ignite 'randomly'?__________________________________________________

Previously, I've been ridiculed / criticized for expressing my thoughts / opinions in this thread (Dr. J, Are You Still Interested in a Solution to your HVAC Problem? (http://slickdeals.net/forums/showpost.php?p=31928259&postcount=130)).

Does the fact that BikerEric (http://slickdeals.net/forums/member.php?u=21045) created this thread mean: *ONLY* BikerEric (http://slickdeals.net/forums/member.php?u=21045) can post replies to other member's questions?
.
BikerEric's (http://slickdeals.net/forums/member.php?u=21045) replies are *ALWAYS* correct / i.e. the *BEST* possible answer?
P.S. In *NO* WAY am I attempting to UNDERMINE / DEGRADE BikerEric's (http://slickdeals.net/forums/member.php?u=21045) efforts. When I post in THIS thread, I'm solely trying to SHARE and/or INCREASE my current knowledge on this topic. I did not appreciate, nor did I choose to reply to BikerEric's (http://slickdeals.net/forums/member.php?u=21045) 'poor taste / sarcastic' replies / posts to me (regarding my QUESTIONing of his reply to Post #130 (http://slickdeals.net/forums/showpost.php?p=31928259&postcount=130)). (Insecurity?)

P.P.S. stufine (http://slickdeals.net/forums/member.php?u=182558),

Only by re-reading the old posts in this thread did I remember your 'bonehead' comment (Post #117 (http://slickdeals.net/forums/showpost.php?p=31854033&postcount=117)). Regardless, I'm still willing to share my knowledge / experience / opinion for YOUR current problem.

(OTOH, If you're so darn smart, why can't you TROUBLESHOOT this problem by yourself? ;) It apears rather straightforward to me - Bad IGNITER or CONTROLLER)

P.P.P.S Dr. J (http://slickdeals.net/forums/member.php?u=79334),

After all of the PERSONAL TIME that I voluntarily invested into *YOUR* HVAC problem, it's 'unfortunate' that you 'don't have the time' / lost interest in the solution...

P.P.P.P.S. I'm a semi-disabled / currently UNEMPLOYED / Programmer/Analyst - *SO*, BESIDES the personal satisfaction I get from ANSWERing some random person's question(s), I *ALSO* get some 'pleasure' from FORMATTING my replies - a sort of (simple) programming language in itself. ;)
__________________________________________________

Random Facts (Member / Total Posts): BikerEric (http://slickdeals.net/forums/member.php?u=21045): 15,989
stufine (http://slickdeals.net/forums/member.php?u=182558): 3,875
Dr. J (http://slickdeals.net/forums/member.php?u=79334): 14,174
TakeTheActive (http://slickdeals.net/forums/member.php?u=963804): 50BOTTOM LINE: I don't post on forums seeking GRANDIOSE accolades. I don't (INTENTIONALLY) ridicule / criticize / insult other members. And, in return, I expect the same consideration.

Random readers of this this thread can come to their own conclusions....

Random reader here who has gotten help from Biker Eric two or three times. Your post is rather offhand and seems to put you in that "jealous" category. BE is the bomb, and you are, well, rather pathetic with your rantings.

FYI, BE started the thread and is the resident expert that SD relies on for this type of help. He is well known and well trusted here.

[jj970]

Whirlpool or GE
or even a Kenmore (where the model number starts with a 665.)

No specific model numbers for Whirlpools?

[BikerEric]

check the grounds
especially at the outlet


Also check polarity
that will do it too


No specific model numbers for Whirlpools?

nah not really
your cheaper Whirlpool/ Ropers will NOT be the tall tubs

[oynot]

Two questions for you:

You said earlier it's possible to silicone seal a leaky refrigerator door gasket. Mine has a multiple folded crease in the corner that won't come out and we've been living with it. Kinda expensive to replace it... can you explain how to fix it with silicone or post a link? I looked around online and didn't see anything like that.

Second, my 15 year old Kenmore model 665.xxx (made by Whirlpool) dishwasher door liner top corner has separated from the door frame . Without having taken it apart, it's obvious the screw's holes cracked or stripped... what's it called where the screws threads go into? What kind of glue should I use to stick the pieces together again and any special prep needed? I expect to find stripped studs for the liner screws to go into, will I be surprised?

Thanks!

[BikerEric]

Two questions for you:

You said earlier it's possible to silicone seal a leaky refrigerator door gasket. Mine has a multiple folded crease in the corner that won't come out and we've been living with it. Kinda expensive to replace it... can you explain how to fix it with silicone or post a link? I looked around online and didn't see anything like that.

Second, my 15 year old Kenmore model 665.xxx (made by Whirlpool) dishwasher door liner top corner has separated from the door frame . Without having taken it apart, it's obvious the screw's holes cracked or stripped... what's it called where the screws threads go into? What kind of glue should I use to stick the pieces together again and any special prep needed? I expect to find stripped studs for the liner screws to go into, will I be surprised?

Thanks!

First , we will silicone the gaps and seams .
on the cabinet itself , not the door gasket
With a wrinkled gasket , first we clean the cabinet face thoroughly, then we use either a blow dryer or steamer to heat the gasket and slid it into place. Letting the cold then set the gasket for a few days .
Then we will will put some silglide lube on the face of the gasket , wait a few minutes and then wipe it off. (this will help in keeping the seal from sticking to the cabinet)

With the dishwasher , actually the stud/post that holds the screw is broken off of the face plate. ( happens all the time [ poor design])
the best way to take care of that is with a very careful taping job using a waterproof tape to hold the inner panel to the the outer panel.

[BikerEric]

My mom has an old Whirlpool washer, Model LA5700XSW1, Serial C74815037. This thing stinks. What do we need to get to to clean to get rid of the smell? Running Clorox through it only helps for a little bit.

run old rags and vinegar (instead of soap) it will knock down the soap scum that is unseen and help clean the unit


In a worse case scenario , get some powdered citrus acid and use instead of soap ( with rags in the unit.

[AggieMom]

:wave2: DH is looking to buy a chest freezer to convert it into a kegerator for his new home brewing habit. We found one on Craigslist but can't find a manual or anything telling us the interior dimensions of the freezer. Can you help?

I emailed the seller and this is what they got off the tag:

Kenmore
#297010501F
Pub. # 31-51657 16575
LR67369
EEV99421
Typ Co5
WB64815615

[oynot]

With the dishwasher , actually the stud/post that holds the screw is broken off of the face plate. ( happens all the time [ poor design])
the best way to take care of that is with a very careful taping job using a waterproof tape to hold the inner panel to the the outer panel.

Yep, you were right. Really poor design and am surprised it held up all these years.

Rather than use tape, I used some cut down stainless flathead machine screws (painted the heads black to match the dishwasher) and drove them through the whole door on both sides so it visually matches... used a bed of silicone behind the nut on the interior of the dishwasher to seal it.

Almost looks like it's always been there.

Thanks.

[BikerEric]

:wave2: DH is looking to buy a chest freezer to convert it into a kegerator for his new home brewing habit. We found one on Craigslist but can't find a manual or anything telling us the interior dimensions of the freezer. Can you help?

I emailed the seller and this is what they got off the tag:

Kenmore
#297010501F
Pub. # 31-51657 16575
LR67369
EEV99421
Typ Co5
WB64815615

I need the actual model number from the unit plate
it's either stuck on the inside of the unit
or down by the mechanical parts near the bottom.


Yep, you were right. Really poor design and am surprised it held up all these years.

Rather than use tape, I used some cut down stainless flathead machine screws (painted the heads black to match the dishwasher) and drove them through the whole door on both sides so it visually matches... used a bed of silicone behind the nut on the interior of the dishwasher to seal it.

Almost looks like it's always been there.

Thanks.

:thumbup:

[AggieMom]

I need the actual model number from the unit plate
it's either stuck on the inside of the unit
or down by the mechanical parts near the bottom.


Dang. Seller was put out looking for these numbers. Thanks anyway!

[TBurr]

A neighbor installed a gas high very high efficiency on demand water heater. It vents about 5' from a common wall.

The noise that thing puts out is awful! High pitched, weird sounds. You probably know what it's like.

What can be done about that?

[Q-Bert]

A neighbor installed a gas high very high efficiency on demand water heater. It vents about 5' from a common wall.

The noise that thing puts out is awful! High pitched, weird sounds. You probably know what it's like.

What can be done about that?

Unfortunately, not much.
Just another reason why I like good ole fashioned hot water heaters.

[Q-Bert]

BE... need some help..

I've purchased a Frigidaire FPUH17D7KF All freezer. The darn thing creates frost up at the top of the interior at the jamb of the door (just in front of the lights). The seal is all good. I've checked all the way around for leaks. The only thing I could think of is that the heat the the lamp creates when it turns on when I open the door, heats the area around there and when the light shuts off the condensation freezes back up. I've tried removing the lamp so there's no light on in the freezer to see if it continues to freeze up. The frost created takes several days to get about 1/2 thick.

Here's some pics of the location where the frost is created.

I appreciate any insight you can provide.

Just wanted to follow-up on this.

The seal didn't show any light leaking out. Had to repoint the light several times to check, but no light was visible at the seal. I called for factory service and the tech that came out looked at it for literally not even 5 seconds. When he saw it, he goes "oh.. one of these". Scribbled a bunch of stuff on a repair sheet about ordering a "door frost kit".

Any ideas what a "door frost kit" will do/solve? He also said they have an updated vent to redirect the cold air that comes out from the upper supply so that it doesn't hit that area directly.

Yay for factory warranties.

I kinda knew what I was getting into since it's a Frigidaire, but the price was too good to pass it up.

[Hellyea]

First off, thank you so much for your help.

Brand: GE Monogram
Model #: ZET 1PM 1SS
Built into cabinet Electric Oven
Just over 2 years old -- yeah tell me about it!
Link to Diagram (http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/GE-Parts/Wall-oven-Parts/Model-ZET1PM1SS/0432/0125300?pathTaken=)


This oven does not heat any more. None of the functions (bake, broil, convection) work. The display does work and the light inside works. Just does not heat. Tried inspecting the heating element and it looks smooth to me. No bubbles, no dissection.

More than willing to put in my time, but would really like to refrain from having to call someone out for what may end up to be something simple. I'd like to rule all the self-help options out first. Again, thank you for your help.

[stufine]

First off, thank you so much for your help.

Brand: GE Monogram
Model #: ZET 1PM 1SS
Built into cabinet Electric Oven
Just over 2 years old -- yeah tell me about it!
Link to Diagram (http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/GE-Parts/Wall-oven-Parts/Model-ZET1PM1SS/0432/0125300?pathTaken=)


This oven does not heat any more. None of the functions (bake, broil, convection) work. The display does work and the light inside works. Just does not heat. Tried inspecting the heating element and it looks smooth to me. No bubbles, no dissection.

More than willing to put in my time, but would really like to refrain from having to call someone out for what may end up to be something simple. I'd like to rule all the self-help options out first. Again, thank you for your help.

have you reset the breaker going to the stove?

[Hellyea]

have you reset the breaker going to the stove?

Yes...no dice.

EDIT: No idea what the heck happened but now it works....didn't do a thing! Will see how long this holds up.

[V0RT3X]

We've been having problem with our old gas water heater. I think at one point my roommate forgot to pay the gas bill so they cut it off. Now that it's back on, we can't light up the pilot light for the life of me.

I follow the instruction attached to the heater, turn the knob to pilot, hit the reset button and light up the pilot light. I see a very dim flame coming out of it but it would flicker and eventually go out on its own even though the reset button is still being depressed. Looks to me as if there's no gas coming out of the tip of that pilot light.

I don't have the model and make of the heater, will get it when I get home if someone could point me to the right direction on what to do with this thing? Thx a lot

[Q-Bert]

We've been having problem with our old gas water heater. I think at one point my roommate forgot to pay the gas bill so they cut it off. Now that it's back on, we can't light up the pilot light for the life of me.

I follow the instruction attached to the heater, turn the knob to pilot, hit the reset button and light up the pilot light. I see a very dim flame coming out of it but it would flicker and eventually go out on its own even though the reset button is still being depressed. Looks to me as if there's no gas coming out of the tip of that pilot light.

I don't have the model and make of the heater, will get it when I get home if someone could point me to the right direction on what to do with this thing? Thx a lot

Does your stove use gas?

You need to hold down the button for at least 30-45 seconds to get the thermocouple good and hot. It may take several tries and you may need to hold down the button for a while if air got into the line.

[V0RT3X]

Does your stove use gas?

You need to hold down the button for at least 30-45 seconds to get the thermocouple good and hot. It may take several tries and you may need to hold down the button for a while if air got into the line.

No, the rest of the house use electric, the only thing left still using gas is this heater

Yes, I kept holding the button down while trying to light it and it barely even lit up then went out all on its own even though the button is held down the whole time. I tried it about 4-5 times and it's still the same thing. I think the pilot light is broken? It looks as if the whole assembly is attached directly to the thermostat and doesn't look easy to disassemble/replace

[BikerEric]

No, the rest of the house use electric, the only thing left still using gas is this heater

Yes, I kept holding the button down while trying to light it and it barely even lit up then went out all on its own even though the button is held down the whole time. I tried it about 4-5 times and it's still the same thing. I think the pilot light is broken? It looks as if the whole assembly is attached directly to the thermostat and doesn't look easy to disassemble/replace

Check the gas valves

Then try to start the unit again BUT hold the pilot knob down for about 1 minute first ! and smell!!!!!
you may have to purge any air out of the line before it will hold a pilot

[Q-Bert]

No, the rest of the house use electric, the only thing left still using gas is this heater

Yes, I kept holding the button down while trying to light it and it barely even lit up then went out all on its own even though the button is held down the whole time. I tried it about 4-5 times and it's still the same thing. I think the pilot light is broken? It looks as if the whole assembly is attached directly to the thermostat and doesn't look easy to disassemble/replace

Actually, I was just thinking, that if the gas company turned off the gas, they'll need to call you to setup an appointment to turn it on. It is a safety hazard for the utility to turn on the gas without ensuring that any standing pilots get lit. Around here, they'll call and check the stove and light the pilots for you. If they were to turn on the gas without lighting the pilots, gas would leak into the kitchen area from the standing pilots (if your stove has standing pilots).

[BikerEric]

Actually, I was just thinking, that if the gas company turned off the gas, they'll need to call you to setup an appointment to turn it on. It is a safety hazard for the utility to turn on the gas without ensuring that any standing pilots get lit. Around here, they'll call and check the stove and light the pilots for you. If they were to turn on the gas without lighting the pilots, gas would leak into the kitchen area from the standing pilots (if your stove has standing pilots).

good call!

[V0RT3X]

good call!

Thx guys, let me check with my roommate to see if they ever came over, repped. My roommate just told me he paid for the gas, i'm not 100% sure if we have gas or not and there's nothing to verify besides from this heater

[stufine]

where is your meter. inside or out? as Q said it still might be off at the meter... now the only thing i dont like are the electric smart meters. i went to an empty apartment other day and when i got there the outside light was on.. wtf this place had no power. seems they will turn them on with no one there. two times now this has happened. i go in and the frig is running with the doors open. now what if i had an electric stove and just maybe a burner was left on.

[whome]

On that dishwasher with the broken door, you suggested using tape to secure it.

What type of tape would you recommend that's so durable? I need something for a kayak and nothing I've tried has held up over time.

[G37]

where is your meter. inside or out? as Q said it still might be off at the meter... now the only thing i dont like are the electric smart meters. i went to an empty apartment other day and when i got there the outside light was on.. wtf this place had no power. seems they will turn them on with no one there. two times now this has happened. i go in and the frig is running with the doors open. now what if i had an electric stove and just maybe a burner was left on.

The power companies are criminals now-a-days.

Dominion Power in VA just got sued by the state for stealing (1) Billion dollars from their customers over 18 months. Ordered by a federal judge to "return" the money to the customers. Dominion said "Well how about we give ALL our customers a break and only charge them for actual usage for the next 10 years instead of refund...". BANG DONE.

$80 bills for (2) months and then right back up to $500/month since :mad:

[V0RT3X]

where is your meter. inside or out? as Q said it still might be off at the meter... now the only thing i dont like are the electric smart meters. i went to an empty apartment other day and when i got there the outside light was on.. wtf this place had no power. seems they will turn them on with no one there. two times now this has happened. i go in and the frig is running with the doors open. now what if i had an electric stove and just maybe a burner was left on.

I'm not sure to be honest. I've talked to my roommate and we open the online account and it shows we owe them $-0.63. When I tried holding the pilot button for a minute, i didn't smell any gas at all. So could be two things, the gas is off or the pilot light is jam with something. Sounds like the first possibility right? Anyway, my roommate will call the gas company today and see what's going on

[stufine]

I'm not sure to be honest. I've talked to my roommate and we open the online account and it shows we owe them $-0.63. When I tried holding the pilot button for a minute, i didn't smell any gas at all. So could be two things, the gas is off or the pilot light is jam with something. Sounds like the first possibility right? Anyway, my roommate will call the gas company today and see what's going on

i think its still off at the meter. between you two i would wait for the gas company. another thing i hate. if you lived here it would be $30 every month just to have the gas meter. thats not including any usage. there's over 600,000 customers here. I wonder if they charge a reconnect fee if i turn gas off in spring and back on in fall

[BikerEric]

Typically when a gas utility shuts a system off , they will put a plug or plate in the inlet of the meter so that the customer can't just turn the valve back on.

[stufine]

Hey BE, anything changed for front loader washer/dryer? think were going to pickup a whirlpool or maybe a maytag (price). mother still loves her Kenmore but has no use for the steam option

[BikerEric]

The best front loaders are still the Whirlpool Duets without the steam option.

[shah007]

Hi Mr. BE

I have a Kenmore dryer Model No. 110.62052100. The dryer came with the house so I am not aware as to how old it is. The problem is that the dryer intermittently starts beeping like crazy at different times. There is no set pattern, sometimes it does not occur for many days and then suddenly it will start beeping for a few days (again not continuously). Also, sometimes the control panel becomes unresponsive so no matter what button you press on the dryer nothing happens and nothing lights up on the panel. The light comes on when you open the dryer door so there is power supply is there but it does not work. And then randomly after a day or sometimes more if you try turning it on, it starts working. Sometimes the dryer only works on the highest heat setting and you cannot change it to any other setting. At other times it works fine. It is almost like everytime you go to use it you don't know what to expect. This happened for a few days last fall and then everything was fine for a while and now it has started again.

Is there something I can do to fix this problem or is it time to start looking for a new dryer. Also, the previous owners have not left a manual for us so unfortunately we cannot try to troubleshoot using that.

Thanks for all your help!

[BikerEric]

Hi Mr. BE

I have a Kenmore dryer Model No. 110.62052100. The dryer came with the house so I am not aware as to how old it is. The problem is that the dryer intermittently starts beeping like crazy at different times. There is no set pattern, sometimes it does not occur for many days and then suddenly it will start beeping for a few days (again not continuously). Also, sometimes the control panel becomes unresponsive so no matter what button you press on the dryer nothing happens and nothing lights up on the panel. The light comes on when you open the dryer door so there is power supply is there but it does not work. And then randomly after a day or sometimes more if you try turning it on, it starts working. Sometimes the dryer only works on the highest heat setting and you cannot change it to any other setting. At other times it works fine. It is almost like everytime you go to use it you don't know what to expect. This happened for a few days last fall and then everything was fine for a while and now it has started again.

Is there something I can do to fix this problem or is it time to start looking for a new dryer. Also, the previous owners have not left a manual for us so unfortunately we cannot try to troubleshoot using that.

Thanks for all your help!

It sounds like you have an intermittent problem with the boards or connection., Before I would condemn this unit , I would check the ribbon connect in the control panel area.
If you need directions to get inside the panel just let me know.

[BoomSchtick]

Question about my Frigidaire Dishwasher.

We noticed a large amount of water coming out from underneath it last night. We pulled it out only to find that the heating coil had warped into the floor of the dishwasher creating a good sized hole in the bottom of it.

The easy answer is to just replace it, but I hate to do that when it works fine and the motor seems to have plenty of life in it. In searching around, I found this (http://fixitnow.com/wp/2005/09/27/repairing-a-melted-hole-in-a-dishwasher-dishwasher-repair/)page.

I figured that it's worth at least a shot to try it. What do you think about patching the hole? What should I do about the drooping heating element? My father-in-law thought it might be a good idea to put a small piece of ceramic tile under the element where it's drooping to keep it up off the patch new patch job (maybe covered with a metal sheet for heat spreading). Any concerns about that idea? He also suggested a nylon tape to help strengthen the epoxy.

It's a Frigidaire FDB956RBC1 with serial number TH31947728

[shah007]

It sounds like you have an intermittent problem with the boards or connection., Before I would condemn this unit , I would check the ribbon connect in the control panel area.
If you need directions to get inside the panel just let me know.


Mr. BE,

I appreciate all your help. Please send me the directions to check the ribbon connect in the panel. I would definitely like to give it a try and see if I can fix the problem.

Thanks!

[BikerEric]

Question about my Frigidaire Dishwasher.

We noticed a large amount of water coming out from underneath it last night. We pulled it out only to find that the heating coil had warped into the floor of the dishwasher creating a good sized hole in the bottom of it.

The easy answer is to just replace it, but I hate to do that when it works fine and the motor seems to have plenty of life in it. In searching around, I found this (http://fixitnow.com/wp/2005/09/27/repairing-a-melted-hole-in-a-dishwasher-dishwasher-repair/)page.

I figured that it's worth at least a shot to try it. What do you think about patching the hole? What should I do about the drooping heating element? My father-in-law thought it might be a good idea to put a small piece of ceramic tile under the element where it's drooping to keep it up off the patch new patch job (maybe covered with a metal sheet for heat spreading). Any concerns about that idea? He also suggested a nylon tape to help strengthen the epoxy.

It's a Frigidaire FDB956RBC1 with serial number TH31947728

I've never tried to patch a plastic tub before , so, I guess it's worth a try.
The element should actually be semi bendable ( meaning you should be able to bend it up enough to be away from the tank.)
I might glue a tile to the tub too.
Good luck!
And please post some pictures before during and after. And keep us posted on the durability.

[scottyj]

I have an electric front loading dryer. The timed drying works fine, but when i use the autosenor feature, the dryer turns off with the clothes to wet. I suspect I need to clean or replace the senor. Any thoughts?

[BikerEric]

I have an electric front loading dryer. The timed drying works fine, but when i use the autosenor feature, the dryer turns off with the clothes to wet. I suspect I need to clean or replace the senor. Any thoughts?

I would try moving the dial to more dry first
not on the star

[BikerEric]

Mr. BE,

I appreciate all your help. Please send me the directions to check the ribbon connect in the panel. I would definitely like to give it a try and see if I can fix the problem.

Thanks!

Disconnect power first

the end caps on the console lift from the top and tilt forward/down to remove. It may be hard to do to, but they will come undone
http://www.applianceaid.com/animates/ddaccess1aa.JPG
You will see a phillips screw in the bottom corner ( on each end ) remove and DON'T LOSE
Now, Pull forward and up on the console and you can hinge it open and hanging from the hinges.

look at your "ribbon' connection and give a little tug
now try to push the ribbon back in

That's all you really can do


assembly is reverse of disassembly


Good Luck

[scottyj]

Thanks will try, did try more dry, definitly something wrong.

[BikerEric]

Thanks will try, did try more dry, definitly something wrong.

remove the vent from the back of the unit and try a dry cycle, then let me know what happens.

[batterycharger]

Replacing an oil boiler for a baseboard hot water heating system.

The SYSTEM 2000 EK1 was recommended, followed by a Brodurus.

Which road to follow? Spread out over 10 years the costs are comparable.

[trancepire]

Hello BE, I'm thrilled to see you're still offering this wonderful service to SDers. :)

The model number on my dishwasher is FDB1050REC2, it is a Frigidaire that came with the house when we bought it. Assuming the dishwasher wasn't used before the house was built, it is roughly 3 years old.

The issue I'm having pertains to the top rack and the silverware section of the dishwasher; namely, they're not getting clean. This started about a month ago and has been getting progressively worse. I probably shouldn't have sat on it for so long, but I thought it might get better on its own.

In troubleshooting the issue, I found that the top spray arm doesn't seem to be spinning. I found online that the arms do not spin at the same time on Frigidaire dishwashers so it might be that I just haven't managed to open the dishwasher at the right point to see the arm moving.

What I've tried so far:

1. I removed the top arm and cleaned all the parts. Water moves freely through it, and I cannot find any blockages.
2. Removed the bottom arm, disassembled as far as I could. I cleaned the filter that sits below the arm, as well as the large rubber filter.
3. I used a star screwdriver to remove volute cover. There was standing water in this part of the dishwasher, but I don't know if that's normal. I've tried to search out that answer, but don't seem to know the properly terminology to differentiate that area from the bottom of the tub itself when searching. The ball does move freely.
4. I checked where the dishwasher drains into the garbage disposer and did find some blockage around the edge of the inside of that tube. I tried pulling the dishwasher out to get to the other end of the tube, but it was quite resistant to being pulled out (I did remove the screws holding it into the countertop).
5. I put everything back together and found no change. I have tried running the Top Rack Only setting to no avail. When I open the dishwasher I still only see the bottom arm spinning.

If troubleshooting requires me to pull the dishwasher out completely, I can do that. I just didn't feel comfortable forcing it without knowing what I'd be looking for anyway.

Hopefully I've provided enough information. Thank you so much for any info you can offer.

[Dr. J]

In the HVAC system I've written about previously - it has 2 zones - 1 for the LL and one for the 2nd floor which the tstat is located in the MBR. On the LL the tstat is located in the living room. It's a forced air system.

I installed a wood stove and plan to use it extensively over the winter and anticipated using the air handler of the HVAC system to "distribute" the heat from the stove through the house.

The MBR tstat is the "master" of the system which basically makes the 1st floor tstat useless.

I had both fan switches on "ON" last night to continuously circulate air and it worked well, but I need to have BOTH fan switches on auto (both floors).

Is there a way that I can install a separate switch on the 1st floor that bypasses BOTH tstats, turns on the air handler and opens both dampers? That way, I'd just flip it on overnight (or even use a timer?).

Running more wires shouldn't be a problem since the basement is close access.

[righton]

What kind of glue will work well on a plastic refrigerator door liner?

I need to attach a shelf bracket that broke free of the liner. There's ample gluing surface - I'm just not sure what to use

Thanks!

[Q-Bert]

What kind of glue will work well on a plastic refrigerator door liner?

I need to attach a shelf bracket that broke free of the liner. There's ample gluing surface - I'm just not sure what to use

Thanks!

I've used 1-minute or 5-minute epoxy with good results.

BE might use something else. Not sure if there's something specialized for plastic.

[righton]

I tried epoxy and it peeled off the slick surface.

Before I scuff the surface for the next attempt, wanted to take advantage of expertise and save some trial/error. Was thinking JBWeld and Phenoseal for awhile, but then not...

[BikerEric]

What kind of glue will work well on a plastic refrigerator door liner?

I need to attach a shelf bracket that broke free of the liner. There's ample gluing surface - I'm just not sure what to use

Thanks!

I've used 1-minute or 5-minute epoxy with good results.

BE might use something else. Not sure if there's something specialized for plastic.

I tried epoxy and it peeled off the slick surface.

Before I scuff the surface for the next attempt, wanted to take advantage of expertise and save some trial/error. Was thinking JBWeld and Phenoseal for awhile, but then not...

Scuff it slightly and use DEVCON 5 minute epoxy

but give me a model number and description if the shelve , there may be a better way.

[ethansavesbig]

Eric,
I recently had a brand new furnace installed in my home. It is a Bryant Evolution Series 355CAV042060FASA. Works great - the installers put a Totaline P320-1110 thermostat on the wall to replace the old one. I looked some information up on the thermostat after the install. It seems it is a 1H/1C thermostat, now the furnace is supposedly 3 stage. So, am I not going to get all three stages? It seems to be working in 3 stages - but I am not sure how with a 1H thermostat. Am I missing something? Thank You

[Q-Bert]

Eric,
I recently had a brand new furnace installed in my home. It is a Bryant Evolution Series 355CAV042060FASA. Works great - the installers put a Totaline P320-1110 thermostat on the wall to replace the old one. I looked some information up on the thermostat after the install. It seems it is a 1H/1C thermostat, now the furnace is supposedly 3 stage. So, am I not going to get all three stages? It seems to be working in 3 stages - but I am not sure how with a 1H thermostat. Am I missing something? Thank You

Uhm, pretty sure that if a multistage thermostat is not installed, you won't get the benefits of the multistage furnace. Seems kind of a waste of money to install a multistage furnace with no multistage thermostat. I'm sure the furnace works, but you aren't getting the full benefit of the staging.

Are you sure a 355CAV is 3 stage? I was thinking 2-stage.

Seems your furnace is supposed to work well with this thermostat:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=130439683409

[stufine]

it can be a 3 but seems his is hooked up as dual with that t-stat. like the goodmans timed units

When SW1--- 2 and SW4--- 2 are OFF allows step---modulating operation
with a single stage thermostat. Turn ON when using 2 stage
thermostat to allow Medium Heat operation when R to W/W1 closes
and High Heat operation when R to W/W1 and W2 close.

The furnace will start up in either medium--, or high--heat. The
furnace will operate in low--heat after starting and operating for 1 minute at medium--heat before transitioning to low--heat. The
furnace control CPU determines the combined low--heat and
medium--heat on--time (from 0 to 16 minutes) which is permitted
before switching to high heat.

[righton]

Scuff it slightly and use DEVCON 5 minute epoxy

but give me a model number and description if the shelve , there may be a better way.

It's this, for a Whirlpool EB21DK:
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/part_details.aspx?part_id=3108000

I scuffed areas neatly with a Dremel and tried the epoxy again, hoping I didn't take off too much of the thin area there is for bonding. So far, so good but not much confidence. It broke when something lodged itself between the door and the box as a child pushed to close the door, and the whole area is cracked. The side where the shelf bracket secures to is intact, problem is that one side of the finger of the bracket broke off.

All problems should be this serious. Thanks, BE

[ethansavesbig]

Uhm, pretty sure that if a multistage thermostat is not installed, you won't get the benefits of the multistage furnace. Seems kind of a waste of money to install a multistage furnace with no multistage thermostat. I'm sure the furnace works, but you aren't getting the full benefit of the staging.

Are you sure a 355CAV is 3 stage? I was thinking 2-stage.

Seems your furnace is supposed to work well with this thermostat:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=130439683409

it can be a 3 but seems his is hooked up as dual with that t-stat. like the goodmans timed units

When SW1--- 2 and SW4--- 2 are OFF allows step---modulating operation
with a single stage thermostat. Turn ON when using 2 stage
thermostat to allow Medium Heat operation when R to W/W1 closes
and High Heat operation when R to W/W1 and W2 close.

The furnace will start up in either medium--, or high--heat. The
furnace will operate in low--heat after starting and operating for 1 minute at medium--heat before transitioning to low--heat. The
furnace control CPU determines the combined low--heat and
medium--heat on--time (from 0 to 16 minutes) which is permitted
before switching to high heat.

Thank You both, Q-bert - I may end up getting that thermostat, or at least calling and asking why they did not install the evolution t-stat, I am guessing to save me some bucks, but they didn't even ask.:shake:

[BikerEric]

It's this, for a Whirlpool EB21DK:
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/part_details.aspx?part_id=3108000

I scuffed areas neatly with a Dremel and tried the epoxy again, hoping I didn't take off too much of the thin area there is for bonding. So far, so good but not much confidence. It broke when something lodged itself between the door and the box as a child pushed to close the door, and the whole area is cracked. The side where the shelf bracket secures to is intact, problem is that one side of the finger of the bracket broke off.

All problems should be this serious. Thanks, BE

So? buy the brackets and install with a little model glue?

[The Raddish]

Whirlpool Dishwasher
Model Number: GU2548XTPQ3

Started a cycle earlier tonight, and it turned itself off. Restarted, and now the clean light flashes seven times and the digital display counts down from 2 to 1. Something mechanical is running during this time, not sure what.

The manual (http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Use%20and%20Care%20Guide%20-%208535541.pdf) has this to say about the clean light flashing:Clean light is flashing
The dishwasher has malfunctioned. Call for service to check heater circuit.
This is an easy fix, yes?

[BikerEric]

Whirlpool Dishwasher
Model Number: GU2548XTPQ3

Started a cycle earlier tonight, and it turned itself off. Restarted, and now the clean light flashes seven times and the digital display counts down from 2 to 1. Something mechanical is running during this time, not sure what.

The manual (http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Use%20and%20Care%20Guide%20-%208535541.pdf) has this to say about the clean light flashing:Clean light is flashing
The dishwasher has malfunctioned. Call for service to check heater circuit.
This is an easy fix, yes?

Let's start with removing the power for at least 30 minutes and see what happens


Did it seem to have enough water in it?
7 flashes usually mean bad/poor water flow in ( kinked line/ blocked fill line/ bad valve)

[BikerEric]

If you feel up to it, the toekick can be removed and the tech sheet should be attached with the codes to this unit

[The Raddish]

Turned breaker off overnight. Reset this morning, no change. :annoyed:

[BikerEric]

Turned breaker off overnight. Reset this morning, no change. :annoyed:

can you get the tech sheet from behind the toekick and email it to me?

[The Raddish]

Yeah, I'll get it to you. We'll be traveling today so it'll likely be in the morning. Thanks, man. :)

[The Raddish]

can you get the tech sheet from behind the toekick and email it to me?
Okay, well, that took forever. Life has a way of getting in the way of trying to fix a dishwasher.

Anywho, I got the tech sheet from behind the kick panel. It's part number: 8535451.

I ran the diagnostic cycle, which cleared the control. Here's what it says about my error.

Problem:
Stopped running, will not start and clean LED blinks 7 times, then repeats.

Potential Causes:
Control is programmed to stop the current cycle and not allow any further cycles if it suspects a faulty heater (no temperature increase detected in heated intervals). Control blinks the Clean LED 7 times in repetitive fashion and disables the Start/Resume key until cleared.

Check:
Running Diagnostics clears the control and allows it to operate again. If heating problem is not corrected though, the control will stop running again on the next cycle.

Heater circuit problem:Open in heater
Open connection or component in heater circuit
Faulty heater drive circuit on control

Check:1. Unplug dishwasher or disconnect power.
2. Check all components and connections in the water heating circuit or heat dry circuit.

Check resistance of heater
Check resistances of all connections and components between the control and heater
Check operation of heater and temperature sensor in Diagnostics cycle.


I've restarted the wash cycle and so far it is still going. We'll see what happens and if/when it quits again.